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Rezarf
10-15-2011, 03:32 PM
I have pulled my wheel bearing out to repack them and see if I can find a creeking sound in my front end. I wore a nice groove in the bearing side of the claw washer, so I obviously had them on way to tight last time.

Whats the proper sequence for getting the nut, lockwasher (with the tabs) and the locking nut on and to the right torque.

The Hanes manual has left me stranded yet again. I remember thinking you have to tighten them up, back off the nut, retighten... etc. :hill:

Anyone know the play by play? I struck out on mud.

Drew

farnhamstj
10-15-2011, 03:53 PM
Couple methods.

Trail fix: put nut on. tighten till touches bearing then back off 1/4 turn. Washer with tab. Locking nut. Tighten. bend tab. forget about it.

Fish scale: same process but use fish scale (available at wallmart $9) use scale to measure the amount of force required to get wheel to turn. Pull at 90 degrees from lug. you are after 12-15lbs. iirc

Air Randy
10-15-2011, 03:54 PM
I use the same process as recommended by GM for their solid front axles that are built exactly the same way: Torque the inner nut to 50 ft lbs while spinning the wheel. Back the nut off 1/8 turn. Install locking tab. Install outer nut and torque to 30 ft lbs. Bend locking tab. You're done.

farnhamstj
10-15-2011, 04:10 PM
factory manual says

Tighten to 43ft lbs, turn hub few times, back off nut, retighten to 2.9-5 ft-lbs, fish scale to 6.2-12.6 lbs. tighten locknut to 58-72 ft-lbs, check fish scale is still correct

Rezarf
10-15-2011, 04:26 PM
thanks!

Rezarf
10-15-2011, 10:51 PM
Thanks guys, I got it all buttoned up and within spec. I was getting just under 12lbs on the fish scale to get the wheels to spin. I had to make a quick trip to Boulder toyota to get a claw washer and new star nut/gasket, but in the end the front end looks good and I know it is all buttoned up correctly. thanks again. :thumb: