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View Full Version : FJ40 ARB Locker Setup - Early Housing


RicardoJM
10-17-2011, 11:15 AM
I've been running a lock-rite (http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=10813&highlight=locker+install) in the rear of my FJ40 for two years. The locker is great on the trails but is very annoying in slow speed on pavement - or I've become an curmudgeon. Either way, I have been driving my FJ40 quite a bit this summer and recently saw an older ARB (RD 124) come up on CL. This is an older design that will work with full float and semi-float axles. It has three pinions and the newer design has four.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/arblocker/w_arblocker003.jpg

I secured a coarse spline pinion 4.10 chunk from RZEPPA, purchased an install kit from Cruiserouttfitters and read all the information I could find about setting up an ARB. Issac's thread on our forum and ZUKs web page are a wealth of information. While I had intentions of doing a detailed write up; this thread will not be that. However, there is some good technical information relating to older landcruiser chunks that I have experienced and would like to share.

Pinion shims
In the write ups that I found in my research the pinion shim(s) go in between the pinion gear and bearing. In the old chunk that I had, the shim was between the bearing race and the housing. In this photo, you can see the shim on the bearing race.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/arblocker/w_arblocker001.jpg

The shim size was .045 and ended up being just right. This is not surprising as I was using the same pinion and ring gears. When changing gears, typically you have to go through a couple of rounds of changing shims to get them correct.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/arblocker/w_arblocker002.jpg

Ring Gear bolts
In the writups in my research, everyone had ring gear bolts and nuts. My old ring gear has bolts. When installing the ring gear, you torque the bolts to 70 ft. lbs. and one of mine snapped:mad:. I called two Toyota dealerships looking for new bolts and it would appear they are no longer available. I have a 3.70 chunk at home so I removed the bolts and nuts from it. Unfortunately, they will not work with the old ring gear as they are just a tad too thick to go through the threaded holes on the ring gear. Here is a photo of the bolts and one broken head.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/arblocker/w_arblocker004.jpg

So I found a hardware store replacement bolt and during the second attempt of installing the ring gear, another of the original ring gear bolts snapped - not good:mad:. I've since expanded my research (beyond Toyota diffs) and have found that it is recommended to get new ring gear bolts. Based upon my experience, this is very good advise.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/arblocker/w_arblocker005.jpg

I bought more hardware store bolts, metric grade 8.8 so that I could proceed with the installation. I'm not intending to run with these bolts and am on the hunt for replacements. That said, the bolts did hold up to the torque so I was able to proceed. Once I get replacements, I'll have to replace them one by one and loctite them. Fortunately, they are still easy to access.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/arblocker/w_arblocker006.jpg

Carrier bearings
While the bearings in my old chunk were all it serviceable shape, new carrier bearings needed to be purchased because the ID of the ARB are larger. Because I had to get new carrier bearings, I got an installation kit. The kit came with new carrier and pinion bearings, pinion shims, pinion nut, gear marking compound and paint brush. I called Kurt on a Monday mornign and by Wednesday the box had arrived. Here are the new bearings on the ARB.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/arblocker/w_arblocker007.jpg

The only other item of note on the old chunk is the end of the pinion gear used a cotter pin setup and does not have the notch to stake the pinion nut. I didn't snap a photo, but it was staked with a punch.

Now on to other standard ARB setup stuff...

Installing the ring gear to the ARB goes much smoother if the ring gear is pre-heated. We used a lamp to heat the ring gear. I don't know how hot it got, but I did need gloves to handle the gear and slipped on nice and smooth. Heating does make a difference as we ended up going through this process three times because of the sheared bolts - I can tell you that once it cools the ring gear needs to be pressed off. Here is the heating setup.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/arblocker/w_arblocker008.jpg

There are some tools that are used in the set up process. Here is the tool used to tighten the adjusting nuts.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/arblocker/w_arblocker009.jpg

Here is a tool that is used to hold the pinion flange and mount the carrier in the vice.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/arblocker/w_arblocker010.jpg

I'd really like to thank Randy for giving me hand with the set up. He has done many, many diff setups and it was really appearent when we got to checking the back lash. I watched him set the adjusting nuts and check by feel to a spot on back lash of .007 - confirmed with the dial guage. Setting up a diff is within the technical capability of most people, but attention to details is important. It was very nice to have his experienced assistance for this project. The locker tests out just fine on the bench.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/arblocker/w_arblocker011.jpg

PhatFJ
10-17-2011, 12:09 PM
Great write up Ricardo. I have been a fan of ARB's for quite some time, even put the ARB's and 4.88 gears in my FJC myself and you are correct, as long as you take your time and are willing to pull the pinion (several times in my case as I chose to go with a solid spacer rather than a crush sleeve) you can set them up. Good luck with the rest of the install!! I know you will really like it..
Do you have the air compressor installed yet? Where are you putting it? By the way, great idea on the shop lamp!!

RicardoJM
10-17-2011, 12:43 PM
Great write up Ricardo. I have been a fan of ARB's for quite some time, even put the ARB's and 4.88 gears in my FJC myself and you are correct, as long as you take your time and are willing to pull the pinion (several times in my case as I chose to go with a solid spacer rather than a crush sleeve) you can set them up. Good luck with the rest of the install!! I know you will really like it..
Do you have the air compressor installed yet? Where are you putting it? By the way, great idea on the shop lamp!!

I'm not sure I'll find new ring gear bolts. Kurt only has used available. I've got a call into Marks Offroad. I called a local axle shop and they were not helpful. I'm very hesitant to run used bolts as two have already snapped.

I don't have the compressor installed. I'm going to go with the larger ARB so that I'll have a fail over for airing up when I run out of CO2.

The shop lamp worked out great.

Uncle Ben
10-17-2011, 12:51 PM
I'm not sure I'll find new ring gear bolts. Kurt only has used available. I've got a call into Marks Offroad. I called a local axle shop and they were not helpful. I'm very hesitant to run used bolts as two have already snapped.

I don't have the compressor installed. I'm going to go with the larger ARB so that I'll have a fail over for airing up when I run out of CO2.

The shop lamp worked out great.

Bolts should be the same as 4.7 tundra or 4skin 9.5's. Why don't you put a fine spline R&P in it?

RicardoJM
10-17-2011, 01:24 PM
Bolts should be the same as 4.7 tundra or 4skin 9.5's. Why don't you put a fine spline R&P in it?

I think I need an interpreter - what is a 4skin 9.5'? The bolt is metric 10 with 1.25 pitch.

Knowing what I have learned, it may have been easier to buy a new ring and pinion in 4.10 ratio - which would be fine spline:D. I have not had any issues with the coarse spline diffs, nor any reason to avoid them up until now. If I can't get through this bolt issue, I may have to consider making the switch to fine spline and leave the threaded ring gear behind.

Uncle Ben
10-17-2011, 01:42 PM
I think I need an interpreter - what is a 4skin 9.5'? The bolt is metric 10 with 1.25 pitch.

Knowing what I have learned, it may have been easier to buy a new ring and pinion in 4.10 ratio - which would be fine spline:D. I have not had any issues with the coarse spline diffs, nor any reason to avoid them up until now. If I can't get through this bolt issue, I may have to consider making the switch to fine spline and leave the threaded ring gear behind.

Here is your bolt, bolt/nut kits (http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList.aspx?SearchMode=Diff&TypeID=7&Type=Toyota&DiffID=252&Diff=Toyota+Landcruiser%2c+%2790+&+older+-+10+Spline&CatID=54&Category=Ring+Gear+Bolts)

4.7 Toyota trucks use an upgraded 9.5 diff which is very similar to the older Land Cruiser 9.5's with the exception of larger pinion gear shafts and 32 spline axles. The ring gear on the Later 9.5's use bolts instead of bolt/nut to hold the ring gear to the carrier. I think the ring gear bolts on the later diffs are the same as you have! If you could source a 88-97 land cruiser rear R&P you would have a set of very strong fine spline gears that will fit your third member perfectly. Your small tires and spring under configuration is probably fine with a course spline pinion but that is the "fuse" in your set up!

Another point.....can you not just open up the ring gear holes with a 10mm bit and run the normal bolt/nut setup? As a common practice, one should always replace ring gear bolts/nuts and pinion nuts when setting up a fresh diff.

thefatkid
10-17-2011, 01:54 PM
4Runners through current use the 8.0 differential, even the v8. They never came with a larger option.

Uncle Ben must be talking about 2007 and newer 4.7 or 4.6 Tundra or 1998-2007 Land Cruisers that use a 9.5" differential.

You could try to order the bolts from a 2007 4.7l Tundra and see what you get.

Uncle Ben
10-17-2011, 02:00 PM
4Runners through current use the 8.0 differential, even the v8. They never came with a larger option.

Uncle Ben must be talking about 2007 and newer 4.7 or 4.6 Tundra or 1998-2007 Land Cruisers that use a 9.5" differential.

You could try to order the bolts from a 2007 4.7l Tundra and see what you get.


You know from experience so I happily stand corrected! :thumb::thumb: :bowdown: I thought all 4.7 rears had the upgraded 9.5 rears.

RicardoJM
10-17-2011, 02:06 PM
Another point.....can you not just open up the ring gear holes with a 10mm bit and run the normal bolt/nut setup? As a common practice, one should always replace ring gear bolts/nuts and pinion nuts when setting up a fresh diff.

While I didn't put it in the write - we did give it a go and found the hardened steel of the ring gear to be very very hardened.:D

Uncle Ben
10-17-2011, 02:07 PM
While I didn't put it in the write - we did give it a go and found the hardened steel of the ring gear to be very very hardened.:D

:lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao: Guess not then....never mind..:homer: :lmao:

RicardoJM
10-17-2011, 02:22 PM
4Runners through current use the 8.0 differential, even the v8. They never came with a larger option.

Uncle Ben must be talking about 2007 and newer 4.7 or 4.6 Tundra or 1998-2007 Land Cruisers that use a 9.5" differential.

You could try to order the bolts from a 2007 4.7l Tundra and see what you get.

A good idea, but no joy. The thread pitch on all of these (basically Land Cruiser and Pickups from 80 on up) is 1.0 - I need 1.25.

Air Randy
10-17-2011, 07:48 PM
I believe the hardened bolts you put in there are just fine! Take them out one at a time, add lock-tite and re-torque them. You will be fine. If this diff was going behind a high HP V8, maybe a different story. As UB said, this is a coarse spline pinion to start with, so if you abuse it thats going to pop anyways, then you will have to buy a new R&P.

Your only other option is to check with Fastenal and see if they can order bolts for you in the size/pitch you need with a higher hardness rating.

The way you drive and wheel, I would just run it, you'll be fine.

Rzeppa
10-18-2011, 03:04 PM
Wonderful write up Ricardo, thanks for sharing!

UB, $119 for a set of bolts and nuts!!?!?!?!?

That's NUTS!

:eek:

PhatFJ
10-18-2011, 03:29 PM
Ricardo, I would be careful, and replace these bolts with ones with long enough shoulders so that the sheer load is on the shoulder. My understanding is that a higher grade bolt actually has a lower sheer strength and higher tinsel (pull) strength. When you torque a bolt you are pulling and sometimes stretching the bolt, this is why certain bolts are recommended not to be reused. So, if you notice in the picture from Randy's ring and pinion, the bolts have a long shoulder and the sheer load is on that shoulder not the threads. If i were going to use after market bolts I would make sure I had the shoulder at the sheer, even if I had to buy a longer bolt and cut it down.. Just my :twocents:

RicardoJM
10-20-2011, 09:07 AM
I appreciate all the input on the bolt issue. I did find metric 10.9 grade bolts (no shoulder) at AAA metric - which would be stronger than the hardware grade 8.8.

In the back of my mind, my phone conversation with the parts counter guys on Saturday left me with a slight doubt about the information I was given. I stopped by Groove on my way home yesterday and Gene may have found the bolts I need - I'll know for sure tomorrow. If that does not work out Dr. Schlegs has used fine spline pinion and ring gear that I can rebuild the setup with.

I have done some extensive searching on ring gear bolt shear - and the instances of it have been in extreme (think racing and high power spinning wheels hit the ground hard) situations. Much more prevalent is bolts backing out and getting sheared. The bolts backing out are often the result of not being torqued, no locktite or not cleaning for the locktite, etc.

I also came across this post (http://www.marksoffroad.net/CollectedStories.html#6) which gives some interesting perspective. I'm not a metallurgist (or even close to experienced) but would like to know if the single coarse pinion would fail before 12 grade 10.9 metric bolts.

Rzeppa
10-20-2011, 11:59 AM
I'm not a metallurgist (or even close to experienced) but would like to know if the single coarse pinion would fail before 12 grade 10.9 metric bolts.

That's basically what Randy said, and it also echos my own, real-world observations.

I would not worry about grade 10.9 in this particular application, or even grade 8.8 for that matter. They will have plenty of shear and plenty of tensile strength for this application.

Uncle Ben
10-20-2011, 12:09 PM
Wonderful write up Ricardo, thanks for sharing!

UB, $119 for a set of bolts and nuts!!?!?!?!?

That's NUTS!

:eek:

Jeff,
I don't do bargain basement! Cruisers last 300k+ miles because parts used are not sub par. If you're into cheap you should stick with market class vehicles!

Dr. Schlegs
10-20-2011, 12:25 PM
Jeff,
I don't do bargain basement! Cruisers last 300k+ miles because parts used are not sub par. If you're into cheap you should stick with market class vehicles!

That's the reason I am attempting to make all my Cruiser stuff even more bullet proof, and the reason I have never and will never own a Heep.

Rzeppa
10-20-2011, 01:03 PM
Jeff,
I don't do bargain basement! Cruisers last 300k+ miles because parts used are not sub par. If you're into cheap you should stick with market class vehicles!

I don't either, but I have had fasteners custom-made to much higher quality standards than automotive for much less than that. I had these made domestically for medical devices. What I am saying is that somebody is making a huge mark-up on those - even in small lots (hundreds) they shouldn't be more than about $5/ea. That is including hardening and testing to ASTM standards. In automotive quantities (tens to hundreds of thousands) the price should be around $2-3 each.

Uncle Ben
10-20-2011, 01:17 PM
I don't either, but I have had fasteners custom-made to much higher quality standards than automotive for much less than that. I had these made domestically for medical devices. What I am saying is that somebody is making a huge mark-up on those - even in small lots (hundreds) they shouldn't be more than about $5/ea. That is including hardening and testing to ASTM standards. In automotive quantities (tens to hundreds of thousands) the price should be around $2-3 each.

Just looked at what your referencing. There has to be a typo on that page as the individual bolts are 2.41 and the nuts are 2.65. Thats $5.06 per b/n which should be $60.72 for the set. I'll bet the price for the kit is for two diffs.

Rzeppa
10-20-2011, 02:58 PM
Just looked at what your referencing. There has to be a typo on that page as the individual bolts are 2.41 and the nuts are 2.65. Thats $5.06 per b/n which should be $60.72 for the set. I'll bet the price for the kit is for two diffs.

If it was for 2 diffs then I could see that. I realize that companies have to make a profit, but that $109 just jumped out at me as way too much!

Uncle Ben
10-20-2011, 03:42 PM
If it was for 2 diffs then I could see that. I realize that companies have to make a profit, but that $109 just jumped out at me as way too much!

It bugged me after I thought about it too! :rolleyes: I always get the whole set up kit (bearings, shims, rg bolt+nuts, pinion nut and seal) and install everything fresh. Randy's or JT (Just Differentials) are always my first choice and they have never let me down! Once upon a time when I built performance engines and set up rear ends for a living I used to use Reider Racing exclusively but they didn't appreciate me quite as much as I thought they should! :rant: :rolleyes: