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denver4run
12-01-2011, 01:10 PM
Hi all,
Been lurking around for a while while driving 4runners and an 80 series TLC. Well, I just picked up a 1971 FJ40 (Column 3 speed) and figured I need to jump in here and get some help. I hope to be at the next meeting to sign up and get some advice. I'm pretty sure I need a new clutch in the rig, but I'd love to get some expert opinions on what else will be needed to get it road/trail worthy. Good thing is it has little rust (that I've discovered) and it appears to me to be pretty unmolested and stock except for wheels/tires. I need to get some pictures up and hope to this weekend if things clear up. Anyway, looking forward to talking with you guys soon. Thanks!

Tom
:beer:

Hulk
12-01-2011, 01:48 PM
Cool. Welcome to the forum!

Old40Dog
12-01-2011, 03:01 PM
Looking forward to meeting you and the 40 next Wednesday evening. WELCOME!

RicardoJM
12-01-2011, 03:54 PM
Welcome, 1971 is a great year of rig:D.

What have you done so far with respect to setting a baseline?

Typically a good starting point is to replace all the fluids; coolant, oil, tranny/transfer and diffs. Of course a tune-up; spark plugs, air filter, adjust points, check valves, lean drop carb adjustment, a new dizzy cap, vacuum check and compression check are straight forward items that are good to do on a new to you rig. Of course some of that my find other items in the engine going through the above, but you will also know what shape it is in.

subzali
12-02-2011, 06:55 AM
Welcome!

Kenon698
12-02-2011, 07:44 AM
Welcome. It's great to see another 40.

MDH33
12-02-2011, 07:55 AM
Welcome. There are a few 40's in the club still. ;)

40's are the Best! :bowdown: :zilla:


http://mdhuber.smugmug.com/photos/i-L8NMD2m/0/L/i-L8NMD2m-L.jpg

rover67
12-02-2011, 08:15 AM
Sweet! Welcome to the club!!

DanS
12-02-2011, 11:59 AM
All talk. No pictures. (yes I can wait for this weekend)

Welcome! 40s are simply awesome. Something WAY too much fun about them.

Dan

subzali
12-02-2011, 12:50 PM
From my PM:
On your clutch question, keep in mind that I've never done a clutch, so take my advice with a grain of salt. You have to pull the tranny and the t-case. To do that, you can either use a tranny jack, or take the seats, gas tank, and tranny hump out and hold them from above. Either way is a little tricky.

While you're in there, I would replace the rear main seal. There are tricks to this, like using PVC as a seal driver (you can search the ih8mud.com forum for info).

However, your problem may be with the master or slave cylinder, depending on what's going on. They are not all that difficult to rebuild, but most people have bad luck rebuilding them and find that's it's just easier to replace them. They aren't that expensive.

Keep the questions coming!

denver4run
12-02-2011, 03:17 PM
Thanks guys. So far I have just started on a tune up, new battery, carb clean, gas tank inspection. But it's now running pretty good. I'll need to look into that lean drop carb adjust mentioned above. Then go from there. It would be great if the clutch fix only needed a master/slave.... but I don't want to get my hopes up! Pictures coming.... promise!

nattybumppo
12-02-2011, 04:26 PM
Welcome to the 40 life! Also make sure your clutch bolts ar torqued to spec and the throw is adjusted right.

denver4run
12-03-2011, 08:39 AM
Guys, assuming that I do need a clutch.... Since this is a 3 on the column would it be a good idea to swap to a 4 speed? Is that a huge deal? Worth the effort? Big expense? My plans for the rig are light 4 wheeling, camping, etc. I like the idea of keeping it stock, but if the 4 speed would be a huge improvement I may want to look into it. Any thoughts?

FJBRADY
12-03-2011, 09:17 AM
Very cool, have fun with it!

Air Randy
12-03-2011, 10:53 AM
If you swap from the 3 on the tree to a 4 on the floor you will substantially damage any OEM originality value the rig may have, if that matters.

If you don't care about that, the 4 speed makes the rig much more driveable whether on the road or off the road. Ricardo did the 3 to 4 speed conversion on his. mechanically it is pretty straight forward once you gather up all of the components.

You can get a standard H42 4 speed from one of the club members in usaeble condition for $50-$100 typically. If you want to improve its off roadability slightly you can put in a H41 4 speed that has the granny low first gear. But those are more expensive, usually in the $600-$700 range.

Does you clutch slip when accelerating or does it not disengage correctly when you step on the pedal? If it is slipping, 99.9% of the time that means you need to replace the clutch disk and pressure plate. Its not that big of a job and can be done in a long afternoon if someone is helping you.

If it isn't disengaging correctly or is hard to shift, it could be a bad pressure plate but the odds are it is either a bad master/slave cylinder or is just way out of adjustment.

nattybumppo
12-03-2011, 07:33 PM
4 speed is WAY nicer! I think it is a huge improvement.

Rezarf
12-04-2011, 08:09 AM
From my PM:
On your clutch question, keep in mind that I've never done a clutch, so take my advice with a grain of salt. You have to pull the tranny and the t-case. To do that, you can either use a tranny jack, or take the seats, gas tank, and tranny hump out and hold them from above. Either way is a little tricky.

While you're in there, I would replace the rear main seal. There are tricks to this, like using PVC as a seal driver (you can search the ih8mud.com forum for info).

However, your problem may be with the master or slave cylinder, depending on what's going on. They are not all that difficult to rebuild, but most people have bad luck rebuilding them and find that's it's just easier to replace them. They aren't that expensive.

Keep the questions coming!

Matt is correct. I bought a clutch master cylinder from autozone or advanced and it was an OEM direct brand replacement for like $40. I was shocked to see the OEM part for that price.

Guys, assuming that I do need a clutch.... Since this is a 3 on the column would it be a good idea to swap to a 4 speed? Is that a huge deal? Worth the effort? Big expense? My plans for the rig are light 4 wheeling, camping, etc. I like the idea of keeping it stock, but if the 4 speed would be a huge improvement I may want to look into it. Any thoughts?

I think Ricardo has swapped his out, he would be the guy to listen to. However, I can say that if you are not going for a bone stock restoration, the 4 speed will be a nice improvement.

If I were to build another 40, I would (in order of preference):

*Swap out the points for an electronic ignition
*Rebuild the carb through Jim C.
*Add mini-truck power steering.
*Get the truck to stop hard and straight (doesn't mean disks... but it could).
*Add comfortable seats.

Welcome bud!:thumb:

Drew

subzali
12-04-2011, 08:24 AM
Zepp has a writeup on the swap as well here on this site :thumb:

There are a few things to consider like the cross member, tranny tunnel clearance, etc.

denver4run
12-04-2011, 10:23 AM
Again, thanks for all the great info and insight... you guys rock.

MDH33
12-04-2011, 04:49 PM
I still have the 3 speed (with floor shift) in my '73 and I think it's fine. I even have a 4 speed and Tcase sitting in my garage, but so far I haven't felt the swap would be worth the time/effort/money. I would be even less likely to do the swap if I had 3 on the column. I would keep it stock. :thumb:

denver4run
12-04-2011, 09:10 PM
A few crummy pictures. Much more to come once I get some time and some decent weather. Planning on getting rid of the diamond plate as soon as possible.

denver4run
12-04-2011, 09:21 PM
another pic. I have the back ambulance doors in good shape, just need to install them. PO also did a front brake disk conversion. Not crazy about the wheels, i'd like to go back to original, but the tires are brand new so these will have to do for now.

RicardoJM
12-05-2011, 07:35 AM
Nice looking rig:D. I was waiting for MDH33 and MountainGoat to chime in on the 3speed swap as they both run 3speed and have been just fine with it. I did the swap and have been very pleased with it. The top end gear ratio is the same, but for city driving 1st through 3rd are spread out much better and I don't miss the unsynced 1st gear and grinding every time I down shift.

Every FJ40 owners experience is different and there is not a "unviversal must have upgrade path"; at least no one gave such a list to me when I bought my 40. Watching/following modifications here and on MUD I have seen that some folks take their time and others plow through just about as fast as the TV shows. Of course there are plenty that just loose interest as well.

I will have owned my 40 for 4 years at the end of this month. It has improved over that time and all my projects have occured because they were needed (radiator leaked, front brakes failed, block cracked) or when an opportunity presented itself (4speed transmission showed up in Junk Yard, Air Randy and FJBRADY goaded me into painting) or when budget allowed (most improvements are in this category). This last item is probably the most important in owning an older vehicle. Each of us has a different situation, but all of our rigs are very capable of outstripping our earnings if we immediately take on everything we want to do to them.

I bought my 40 because I wanted to learn more about auto mechanics and for me a key tenant is that it needs to be driveable, with the exception of a few projects (front disc brakes, engine swap and engine rebuild) that had it out of service for a few weeks - it has been a daily driver.

Really, the first thing I would recommend is getting it baselined and running well - then run it:D. You may find that at that point you are very happy and stay that way a long, long time. Or you may find that you want to change/improve this/that or the other. Either way, you will be starting out knowing what you got.

subzali
12-05-2011, 08:10 AM
FYI, ambi doors didn't start until the 75 model year, and the opening width changed I believe. So you'll have some tweaking to do on those doors

denver4run
12-05-2011, 08:43 AM
Good to know..... thanks guys. Likely that is why the PO didn't have the doors attached! Is this something that can "easily" be fixed? Or would I be better off trying to find the original set up? Was it originally the two small doors and a hatch? I'll check to see if they fit the way he had it set up.

RLMS
12-05-2011, 09:38 AM
welcome....Nice lookin 40!!

Justin

SteveH
12-05-2011, 10:46 AM
Nice truck - great potential, and already cool right now. Ricardo summed it up nicely - baseline it all, and then choose some careful upgrades. A tastefully done PS or front disk conversion takes nothing away from an old truck. Bizarre or badly planned mods will. You will find plenty of excellent guidance here for all of this.

Hulk
12-05-2011, 01:20 PM
Congratulations on your correctly mounted bezel! :D

denver4run
12-05-2011, 01:29 PM
Even I know better then to show up here with an upside down bezel....

FJBRADY
12-05-2011, 01:30 PM
Air Randy and FJBRADY goaded me into painting .

Looking good :thumb::hill:

corsair23
12-05-2011, 05:36 PM
FYI, ambi doors didn't start until the 75 model year, and the opening width changed I believe. So you'll have some tweaking to do on those doors

Not to mention hinge placement on the rear quarters and the hard top plus the need for the striker plate and stuff at the rear of the tub.

To the OP, is your hardtop the correct one for the ambi doors or is it setup for the hatch? Maybe the PO already got that all figured out for you but I once looked at what it would take to go from ambi doors to hatch and vice versa and IIRC it was pretty involved.

denver4run
12-06-2011, 03:27 PM
Looks like the PO may have done the hard part of fitting the ambi door to the 71, just lining them up, they seem to fit. Still need to look into the striker plate, etc. More to follow.

nattybumppo
12-06-2011, 06:12 PM
You can get new striker plates. I think from Spectre and Cool Cruisers.

SteveH
12-07-2011, 09:21 AM
The top and bottom striker plates (mounted to the hardtop and the truck bed floor) are still avail. from Toyota - $16.50 each w/discount. They are now nickel-plated cast iron ('79-83 style) rather than the die-cast potmetal design that came on your truck. The iron type are far more durable and are identical in shape/size to what would have come on the truck. There is also supposed to be a shim (1/8" thick) under each one that SOR carries, although you could easily make your own shim.

The large door-mounted striker is $35 and Toyota no longer carries, this, but SOR does. These may already be installed on your ambulance doors, as they are not part of the truck, but are part of the door, so to speak.

denver4run
12-07-2011, 12:46 PM
great, thanks for the info guys. I hope to have the time this weekend to work on it and see what I have, need, etc.

Rezarf
12-10-2011, 09:45 PM
Strikers and weatherstrip will make the doors close and seal well.

I don't have good strikers nor weatherstripping... :hill: