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View Full Version : 1994 FZJ80 5.3l and 4L60e swap


rockrod
12-13-2011, 10:57 PM
So add me to the list of the vortec swappers.I have owned my 80 for a little over a year now and while it's been a great truck, the lack of power is getting old.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_20110220_100451.jpg

I was given the green light by the CFO to move forward with the swap.I sourced a low mileage 2006 Vortec L33 5.3l engine and 2003 4L60e 4 spd automatic transmission.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0476.jpg

The L33 is an all aluminum V8 and is based on the LS6. It runs Z06 heads, 9.9 compression ratio, and the cam has a bit more lift (same duration) over an iron block 5.3l motor. It's rated at 310 hp and 335 ft/lbs of torque. It will make a good bit more than that because I had the PCM tuned for performance. It will be closer to 350hp and 350 ft/lbs of torque.The last few weeks have been mostly a mission of gathering the parts. I relied heavily on the previous LSx swap threads to come up with the list and I have manage to gather a lot of what's needed. I am still waiting on the t-case adapter from Advanced. I am keeping the stock full time t-case.A few more pics of the motor with the f-body pan swap done and LS3 exhaust manifolds installed:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0492.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0491.jpg

I am doing my own wiring harness adaptation and have built my own fuse block to run the motor:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0486.jpg

I am using an FJ80 shifter to keep the stock look:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0489.jpg

I am using a dual fan 2 speed unit from a mid '90s lincoln continental. It's essentially two taurus fans that run together. The PCM will control the fans.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0478.jpg

I started the dissasembly of the 80 last night. This project will move pretty slow since I work full time and my wife and I are raising 2 year old triplets. I don't have a lot of free time so work will mostly happen at night.

Stay tuned!

rockrod
12-13-2011, 10:58 PM
pile of parts is getting bigger:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0510.jpg

front end getting stripped down:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0513.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0514.jpg

2WD 4L60e I will be using:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0511.jpg

Notice the difference in the MLPS on the side of the transmission. 2004 was the transition year and GM switched from the 2 plug style to the single plug style for the later years. My engine is a 2006 and the trans is a 2003, so a swap to the later style to update this trans is in order. It's an R&R deal:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0512.jpg

more tomorrow night.

74fj40
12-13-2011, 11:13 PM
Keep up the good work! Will definitely be following!

rover67
12-13-2011, 11:57 PM
Sounds like fun! Let me know if you have any questions... I have about 90,000 miles on my 5.3 vortec swap in my 60 and I have learned a lot of things along the way..

Inukshuk
12-14-2011, 12:09 AM
PM Sent on the old motor. I'll be watching too.

rover67
12-14-2011, 12:35 AM
Btw, I'd recommend going with a mechanical fan if you can.. I just looked through this again and thought that. My electric defile cooled well but were never really that reliable.

rockrod
12-14-2011, 07:16 AM
Btw, I'd recommend going with a mechanical fan if you can.. I just looked through this again and thought that. My electric defile cooled well but were never really that reliable.

The fan I am using is an OEM ford fan. here's a shot of it sitting on the stock '94 radiator.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0516.jpg

If it doesn't work, then I will switch to the mechanical fan.

Overlander
12-14-2011, 12:19 PM
Nice work -

Question - what do you planning on doing with the Power Steering?! Are you going to adapt the Toyota P/S pump to the new engine, or are you going to use the GM P/S pump and just swap the lines to and from it?! If so, who's going to make custom hoses for ya?

Good luck with the swap - looking good.

James

rockrod
12-14-2011, 02:58 PM
Nice work -

Question - what do you planning on doing with the Power Steering?! Are you going to adapt the Toyota P/S pump to the new engine, or are you going to use the GM P/S pump and just swap the lines to and from it?! If so, who's going to make custom hoses for ya?

Good luck with the swap - looking good.

James

good question. The solution is very easy. The toyoto steering box uses a 5/8s ORB fitting. Russell Performance makes the powerflex line of teflon braid hoses designed just for hydraulics and high pressure applications. They sell adapters that fit the gm/saginaw pump and the steering box that allow -06 JIC style fitting equipped hose to join the two up. I used a very similar setup on my old jeep CJ-7 crawler and it's full hydro steering. The hose is built using regular hand tools.

here's more info on the hose construction:

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/hose/power_steering.shtml

and these are the fittings for the pump and steering box

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/adapt_fit/fit_ps.shtml

rockrod
12-14-2011, 03:01 PM
Also forgot to mention - integrating the toyota AC system. This will be a bit more challenging but I think I found a solution for this as well. I have to have a custom discharge and suction hose made up so that they will fit the toyota condensor and evap ports on one side and the denso compressor on the engine side.

rover67
12-14-2011, 03:31 PM
The fan I am using is an OEM ford fan. here's a shot of it sitting on the stock '94 radiator.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0516.jpg

If it doesn't work, then I will switch to the mechanical fan.

Yep, those fans fit well and move a lot of air, that's why folks like them :)

Overlander
12-14-2011, 04:02 PM
Also forgot to mention - integrating the toyota AC system. This will be a bit more challenging but I think I found a solution for this as well. I have to have a custom discharge and suction hose made up so that they will fit the toyota condensor and evap ports on one side and the denso compressor on the engine side.

So you're planning on using the Toyota A/C compressor on the GM engine?! Will the same brackets work for mounting it?! I don't get it... :confused:

Kipper
12-14-2011, 04:08 PM
I want to drive it when you're done. Can't believe you're doing this with a full time job and triplet 2 year olds:eek:
:wrench:

rover67
12-14-2011, 04:26 PM
I want to drive it when you're done. Can't believe you're doing this with a full time job and triplet 2 year olds:eek:
:wrench:

I agree quite a feat!!

I had custom hoses made for my rig and used the Toyota evaporator and condensor alone with the gm compressor. It works pretty well. The ac idle up uses a separate computer from gm to control it so I never hooked that up. I do use the stock Toyota controls to cycle the compressor though.. The pressure, temp, and rpm switch. I am sure you can do something similar in the 80.

Nay
12-14-2011, 08:05 PM
Can't believe you're doing this with a full time job and triplet 2 year olds:eek:
:wrench:

He is going to quit his job and do this for the rest of us once he has it all figured out :beer:

rockrod
12-14-2011, 10:33 PM
So you're planning on using the Toyota A/C compressor on the GM engine?! Will the same brackets work for mounting it?! I don't get it... :confused:

I will use the GM compressor (it's actually a denso because they are the oem supplier for gm). The adaptation comes from the line sets.

rockrod
12-14-2011, 10:36 PM
I agree quite a feat!!

I had custom hoses made for my rig and used the Toyota evaporator and condensor alone with the gm compressor. It works pretty well. The ac idle up uses a separate computer from gm to control it so I never hooked that up. I do use the stock Toyota controls to cycle the compressor though.. The pressure, temp, and rpm switch. I am sure you can do something similar in the 80.

supposedly the vortec pcm will sense the drag from the compressor and self compensate the idle. There is an input to tell the pcm the a/c is on but it's a CAN input from the body module on the gm truck so no dice trying to make the toyota a/c amplifier tell the pcm the a/c is on. I will have an input to the fan relay set to trigger a small pusher fan mounted in front of the condenser to help with low speed a/c performance.

rockrod
12-14-2011, 10:39 PM
He is going to quit his job and do this for the rest of us once he has it all figured out :beer:

oddly, I used to work for the now-defunct Avalanche Engineering when the shop was still at the grandview location (right next to Sal's Motor Corral). It got old doing it to make a living so I got a real job when I moved to Florida back in 1998:D

Overlander
12-15-2011, 08:38 AM
supposedly the vortec pcm will sense the drag from the compressor and self compensate the idle. There is an input to tell the pcm the a/c is on but it's a CAN input from the body module on the gm truck so no dice trying to make the toyota a/c amplifier tell the pcm the a/c is on. I will have an input to the fan relay set to trigger a small pusher fan mounted in front of the condenser to help with low speed a/c performance.

What is a PCM? I didn't realize the compressor speed can be modulated based on idle speed.

This maybe a crazy question but has anyone considered using an electric motor to power the A/C compressor instead of using the engine power? You could then use the Toyota compressor and still get the constant speed you need and not have to purchase custom hoses etc. I've seen electric motors for the Water Pump for GM trucks - is there such an option for A/C compressor, I wonder?

rockrod
12-15-2011, 09:27 AM
The PCM is the powertrain control module (or the engine computer). GM calls it the PCM, others call it the ECM.

The compressor turns at engine speed whenever the clutch cycles on and stops turning when it cycles off. The clutch is commanded by the toyota a/c amplifier.

The PCM controls the idle speed and therefore if you are standing at a stop light and the a/c clutch is activated, the increased drag from the compressor will be sensed by the PCM and it will automatically compensate and maintain idle speed. GM does use some compressor that are designed to be variable output - they don't ever cycle on and off but rather control the output of the freon pressure internally. The trucks (fortunately) don't use these compressors.

Yes - there are some cars (mainly hybrids) that use an electric motor to turn the a/c compressor instead of the gas engine. I know it sounds like a big challenge but doing custom hoses to adapt over to the gm compressor really isn't that big of a deal.

Overlander
12-15-2011, 10:22 AM
GM calls it the PCM, others call it the ECM. Oh, ok.... these new acronyms they come up with...

I know it sounds like a big challenge but doing custom hoses to adapt over to the gm compressor really isn't that big of a deal.
It's not the custom hoses that are concerning as much as the 'compensation needed at idle'... trying get that figured out I would think would be more challenging (unless the ECM senses it automatically and increases the idle speed).

The reason I ask all these stupid probing questions is that I'm probably going to do a swap on my FZJ80 one day (though not anytime soon) - I'm thinking '93 GM 6.2L diesel. Just trying to work out some of the things on my own, and it seems you're bravely dealing with these very same issues that have been occupying my own mind, so I hope you don't mind me bantering about it here on your thread.

rockrod
12-15-2011, 01:40 PM
Oh, ok.... these new acronyms they come up with...


It's not the custom hoses that are concerning as much as the 'compensation needed at idle'... trying get that figured out I would think would be more challenging (unless the ECM senses it automatically and increases the idle speed).

The reason I ask all these stupid probing questions is that I'm probably going to do a swap on my FZJ80 one day (though not anytime soon) - I'm thinking '93 GM 6.2L diesel. Just trying to work out some of the things on my own, and it seems you're bravely dealing with these very same issues that have been occupying my own mind, so I hope you don't mind me bantering about it here on your thread.

The pcm does the compensating by itself automatically. It senses the drag (by 'seeing' that the idle speed is slowing) and opens the throttle a little more to offset the drag. It's fast so I doubt someone would even notice it happening.

I would imagine the 6.2l diesel works much the same way since it is computer controlled.

Overlander
12-15-2011, 09:20 PM
I would imagine the 6.2l diesel works much the same way since it is computer controlled.
Actually the 6.5L is computer controlled (ECM... oh, excuse me - PCM... :) ) - I'm contemplating the more reliable 6.2L with a Turbo addition. Time will tell - still early in my planning.

I'll be watching your progress closely and cheering you on. Best of luck -

black95
12-16-2011, 08:05 AM
How about you get all that done and then sell it to me :D cool project, that engine is really going to wake up that 80.

Do you know if you can keep all the ABS braking function without the stock Toyota ECM?

I've got a Vortec 4.3 in my SAS 4runner, and lost the ABS controls when the stoc ECM went. It only had rear ABS anyways, but it gets old in the ice and snow not having good braking, especially when your family is involved.

rockrod
12-16-2011, 05:38 PM
How about you get all that done and then sell it to me :D cool project, that engine is really going to wake up that 80.

Do you know if you can keep all the ABS braking function without the stock Toyota ECM?

I've got a Vortec 4.3 in my SAS 4runner, and lost the ABS controls when the stoc ECM went. It only had rear ABS anyways, but it gets old in the ice and snow not having good braking, especially when your family is involved.

good question - the EWS doesn't show that the ABS computer is tied to the engine computer in any way. As long as it has power, it should work normally.

rockrod
12-17-2011, 03:37 PM
Inuk came by the house today and took the engine and trans home with him. We had a great time pulling this it out. It put up a good fight.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0522.jpg

empty engine bay:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0520.jpg

waggoner5
12-18-2011, 12:52 PM
After doing this swap in to a 91, I would build my own motor mounts and put the LS as close to the firewall as possible. The tcase will have to moved as well, but your engine/fan/radiator clearances will be much easier to deal with in the long run. Great job so far by the way.

rockrod
12-18-2011, 09:36 PM
After doing this swap in to a 91, I would build my own motor mounts and put the LS as close to the firewall as possible. The tcase will have to moved as well, but your engine/fan/radiator clearances will be much easier to deal with in the long run. Great job so far by the way.

Once I have the mark's adapter, I will mate the trans to the t-case and then install them using the stock trans support. the motor will then get dropped in, and then the radiator/e-fan combo will be mocked up to test fit and ensure there is enough room.

the big hold-up right now is the adapter - it's somewhere between Australia and CA right now...slow boat and all..


Delta Current fan controller was ordered tonight. I was going to have the PCM control the e-fans, but decided to go with the DC variable speed controller so that the fans will run only at the speed that is needed to maintain operational temp, rather than just off/slow/high speeds. The DC controller will slowly spin the fans up to speed and will run from 0rpm to max as needed - this eliminates any huge amp draws when the fans are commanded. they will also turn at a minimum of 50% rpm when the a/c cycles on to keep air moving over the condenser to better performance.

rover67
12-18-2011, 11:32 PM
Good move on the Delta. The computer always sucked at controlling the fans for me. Nice to see the motor pulled out, and glad Daniel was able to grab it :)

rockrod
12-19-2011, 07:04 AM
Good move on the Delta. The computer always sucked at controlling the fans for me. Nice to see the motor pulled out, and glad Daniel was able to grab it :)

I had a DC controller on my old CJ crawler. It was controlling a lincoln M8 fan coolling an EFI 351w motor. It worked well once I moved the temp sensor closer to the radiator inlet. having it at the outlet didn't work for the jeep on the highway because CJs don't cool well at highway speeds. Not a big enough grill opening and airflow is minimal through the engine compartment. I had to add louvers to the hood to get it to cool.

rover67
12-19-2011, 09:43 AM
So are you going to throw the temp sensor in the right head on this one?

rockrod
12-19-2011, 11:35 AM
I will probably drill and tap the water pump housing so that I get a good representation of the combined temp output.

rockrod
12-27-2011, 08:28 PM
Sorry - no updates as of yet. I am still waiting for the adapter. As soon as it arrives, there will be lots of action. stay tuned...

Red_Chili
12-28-2011, 10:28 AM
I'm thinking having a stock of 80 series ring and pinion sets could set a guy up with a side job once these conversions get popular... :lmao:

:cool: Kewl...

Uncle Ben
12-28-2011, 10:50 AM
I'm thinking having a stock of 80 series ring and pinion sets could set a guy up with a side job once these conversions get popular... :lmao:

:cool: Kewl...

It's just the mini truck crap in the fronts you need to keep in stock! That and steering gears/sector shafts and you could be a rich man!

rockrod
12-29-2011, 10:00 PM
update:
Started doing two things. I pulled the fuel pump assembly in preparation for swapping the pump with a high pressure/volume unit to keep up with the motor:

new pump and install kit
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0531.jpg

Pulled assembly from tank after removing rear seats and carpet
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0532.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0533.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0534.jpg

pump assembly on the work bench. I also have to install a fuel tank pressure sensor for emissions
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0535.jpg

I also started working on stripping the 1FZ engine harness down. I spent the last few days translating the EWD over to a simple spread sheet with the connector diagram, wire colors, and circuit:
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0593.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0588.jpg

one of my spread sheets
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0591.jpg

rover67
12-29-2011, 10:30 PM
cool, looks like good progress. I am glad you are doing the wiring yourself.

rockrod
12-31-2011, 05:13 PM
A little more progress on the 1FZ harness prep...

This is the discard:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0594.jpg

These two harness lead to the IH1 and IH2 connectors that make the connection to the body harness behind the glove box:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0595.jpg

There will be 5 connections made between the IH1 and IH2 harnesses and the Vortec PCM harness. I will show these later.

rockrod
01-07-2012, 08:57 AM
well - what do you know....
look what showed up last night - two months after ordering:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0596.jpg

I also ordered a Delta Current Control variable speed control for the fans. It took about 3 weeks to get:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0598.jpg

Now I can get down to business!

Rezarf
01-11-2012, 12:19 PM
Wow, I am super stoked about seeing this one come together. I appreciate you taking the time to post all the pics, it gives a real sense of the work involved.

The wiring spooks me about this swap... looks like you've got it covered! :D

corsair23
01-11-2012, 01:12 PM
Sooo...are you done yet? :hill:

I'd be interested after it is all said and done to find out what you estimate the cost of the swap to be...As you stated right off the bat, the lack of power in an 80 gets old :)

powderpig
01-11-2012, 06:29 PM
Well Jeff, you can fix that by buying a 200 series or some = in the domestic market!!

rockrod
01-11-2012, 08:21 PM
It's getting there. I have a more current thread on the mud forum with some better documentation of where I am at.

here's the trans ready to go in:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0604.jpg

I managed to get it in place the other night. I hope to have the t-case in place tonight:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0631.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0632.jpg

I would say the cost of this in parts alone is going to be around $6500. I am doing all the work, so if someone were to pay to have the swap done, it's easy to see why a turn key swap can hit the $15k range. There's a lot work involved not to mention countless hours researching, learning about (what is to me) a new engine, figuring out the parts that are needed, and putting it into an action plan.

The biggest hang up right now is time. I don't have a lot to spare with my wife and I both working full time and trying to raise four kids (three of them are two years old). I am targeting the spring to have this truck back on the road. Let's hope I hit it :).

corsair23
01-12-2012, 01:11 PM
Well Jeff, you can fix that by buying a 200 series or some = in the domestic market!!

I could, but I love my LX, aside from the lack of power :) - But honestly, I don't think I'd contemplate spending more than $5K on a 15 year old truck to get more power...Seems like my only realistic option remains to supercharged the LX someday...

rockrod
01-18-2012, 10:44 PM
:D

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0656.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0657.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0658.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0660.jpg

it's a little high still - need to bring it down so the hood will close:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0659.jpg

It's not permanent yet - I need to center it up and then fit the motor mounts and weld in the frame brackets.

slow going....

rover67
01-19-2012, 12:25 AM
not sure if the oil pan is driving any of the motor placement decisions but i let it for my swap and never got it where i wanted. I am sure you are more experienced than what I was so this is not an issue for you, but just go into it thinking that cutting the oil an is no big deal. put it where you want it then make the oil pan fit.

maybe with 80's it's not a problem.

rockrod
01-19-2012, 09:17 AM
I am using a camaro LS1 pan so it has no bearing on engine placement.

The transmission and t-case are in and bolted to the stock cross member in it's stock location - I am letting it dictate where the motor ends up.

rover67
01-19-2012, 09:26 AM
I had to cut one Camaro pan on a swap of a 5.3 into a 62. It got the motor lower and made it clear the hood easier and meant we didn't have to limit up travel of the axle. Sounds like maybe you have more room to work with which is nice. Also, I bet the axle on an 80 moves around a little less than a leaf sprung truck.

rockrod
01-19-2012, 04:17 PM
I had to cut one Camaro pan on a swap of a 5.3 into a 62. It got the motor lower and made it clear the hood easier and meant we didn't have to limit up travel of the axle. Sounds like maybe you have more room to work with which is nice. Also, I bet the axle on an 80 moves around a little less than a leaf sprung truck.

There's more than enough room to fit the engine, even with the track bar and drag link for the steering. My rig is lifted about 3 inches in front so I am sure this helps. And yes, the front axle doesn't move a whole lot in comparison to leaf springs so that will help too.

rockrod
01-19-2012, 09:34 PM
here's a few of the radiator and lincoln FWD dual electric fans to demonstrate front pulley clearance.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0664.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0666.jpg

I think I am good with clearance.

waggoner5
01-19-2012, 09:51 PM
Plenty of clearance. Great job.

rover67
01-19-2012, 10:43 PM
Looks like it belongs there :)

Nice work!

You've got to be getting excited now!!

rover67
01-21-2012, 01:28 PM
Not sure if you are going to wire up the fuel level sensor from the GM or not, but I was just reading on mud that it helps control the GM evap system. I never wired it up and my truck does OK, but I do get some pressure variations in the tank sometimes. Maybe this would help. You may want to do some research..

Seems like you've got it all covered so maybe this is old news.

rockrod
01-21-2012, 10:00 PM
I am planning to pull a signal for the fuel level input right from the wire that sends voltage to the fuel level gauge. I may have to have the programming tweaked a little to work with the range the toyota sensor puts out.

I also plan on doing the fuel tank pressure as well. I am going to put the sensor in the evap line going between the tank and the canister. I bought all of the parts that would be needed for a 2005 silverado to match the donor engine.


I had a buddy come over today and help me set the hood back in place. I was right on with the positioning of the motor and with the hood closed, the insulation barely touches the highest point on the motor which is the evap purge valve on the intake. I need to rearrange the PS return line a little so that I can schooch the motor over towards the driver's side a bit to get it parallel to the frame rails.

rockrod
01-22-2012, 08:59 PM
Got the motor mounted and everything welded in. What a pain that was...

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0671.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0672.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0676.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0677.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0674.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0673.jpg

As you can see, the front drive shaft is hitting the trans pan, and this is just sitting static. I don't have the winch bumper mounted up so it's only going to get worse. Primary solution is to clearance the pan.

My pretty LS3 exhaust manifolds are not going to work. They are too wide for the frame. I will get a set of center dump block huggers instead because they are known to work.

All in all, I am glad it's in place. Now I can move on to the bolt on stuff.

rockrod
02-21-2012, 08:26 AM
been a while since an update - progress is slow but I am getting close..

shifter is done. notice it now shows for gear positions instead of 3:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0717.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0730.jpg

Pedal is mounted - this was a pain due to it's odd size.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0742.jpg

Fuel plumbed and new pump mounted in tank. test showed no leaks.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0755.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0754.jpg

DC Control fan controller is mounted and wired - also tested with boiling water and yes it works..

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0753.jpg

Cooling system is done.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0767.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0768.jpg

and now I am doing the exhaust.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0773.jpg

What remains to do is the wiring and then add fluids.

rockrod
02-25-2012, 10:14 PM
It's a runner!

Finished up the exhaust, added fluids, did a temporary wire up to get power to the PCM and vroom! It fired up on the first try.

I let it run for about an hour while topping off the trans, radiator, and power steering. Got it up to temp and the DC controller spun the fans up just like it's supposed to.

Getting close! Now I have to tackle the wiring.

Inukshuk
02-25-2012, 11:30 PM
Sweet. Congratulations.

rover67
02-25-2012, 11:53 PM
Nice work man, that's always a big day :)

Its gotta feel good!!!

Congrats!!

rockrod
02-26-2012, 08:08 AM
thanks! now it's a matter of making the wiring interface permanent and find a place to mount the PCM and fuse panel, and also find a place to mount the washer bottle. But it runs!

farnhamstj
02-26-2012, 09:34 AM
:beer2:

waggoner5
02-26-2012, 03:09 PM
Cool. Like the shifter mod.

rockrod
10-24-2012, 05:00 PM
Update time:

Emissions testing is in process. I went to the tech center in Littleton about a week ago and failed the inspection. Why? Because the I/M readiness monitors were showing 'not ready'. This was due to the battery deciding that was the day it was done. They had to jump the truck to get it to start so that I could leave.

So - new battery is in place, but now I am getting an occasional P0455 code which shows 'gross evap leak'. At first I though it was truly a leak and went through a bunch of test to try and find it. Turns out it was the evap vent valve was not getting the required B+ voltage it needs. I fixed this last night and the CEL went away this morning.

I am still showing the evap is not ready and also the O2 sensors are showing not ready. I put a pair of new Denso sensors in last night as well. Hopefully they will go to ready in the next few days. It's hard trying to get into the correct drive cycle because there are not many roads that allow for a 6+ minute uninterrupted cruise a 55 mph.

The center also said my 315s are too big for the rollers....

rockrod
10-24-2012, 05:01 PM
Update time:

Emissions testing is in process. I went to the tech center in Littleton about a week ago and failed the inspection. Why? Because the I/M readiness monitors were showing 'not ready'. This was due to the battery deciding that was the day it was done. They had to jump the truck to get it to start so that I could leave.

So - new battery is in place, but now I am getting an occasional P0455 code which shows 'gross evap leak'. At first I though it was truly a leak and went through a bunch of test to try and find it. Turns out it was the evap vent valve was not getting the required B+ voltage it needs. I fixed this last night and the CEL went away this morning.

I am still showing the evap is not ready and also the O2 sensors are showing not ready. I put a pair of new Denso sensors in last night as well. Hopefully they will go to ready in the next few days. It's hard trying to get into the correct drive cycle because there are not many roads that allow for a 6+ minute uninterrupted cruise a 55 mph.

The center also said my 315s are too big for the rollers....

rockrod
11-01-2012, 01:15 PM
update

I went back today after all of my readiness monitors switched to ready and I passed the state inspection. The HP Tuners software is the bomb.

I then went next door to the Air Care station and PASSED! They even ran it on the rollers with the 315s on it. These tires measured out at 34.5 which is technically over their limit but when I asked the guy about this, he looked and said that if the tires will fit onto the rollers and not rub on the side of the guides or try to climb over the blocking rollers, then it's good to go.

The cruiser passed. It even passed with the quick test and was on the rollers for about 30 seconds total before the test ended. So get this, my 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser is considered a 'very clean' vehicle since it did not test out for the entire 240 second test and was 'fast passed'.

My numbers are:

HC .4607 Max 1.20 GPM
CO 7.12 Max 15.0 GPM
NOx 1.7105 Max 2.0 GPM

Note that they tested the cruiser at the year model 2000 and greater standards and not the 1994 standards.

The guys gave me high fives, I paid my $25 and was on my way.

The cruiser is now officially 'legal' in the eyes of Air Care Colorado.

SteveH
11-01-2012, 01:43 PM
Congrats on all the hard work and e-test success!

corsair23
11-01-2012, 02:21 PM
:thumb: indeed

rover67
11-01-2012, 02:40 PM
Congratulations!

Glad you have it finished and running well :) You know it may sound weird, but I don't mind the emissions test post swap... I feel like it forces you to get it all working like it is supposed to.

Also, I agree, HP tuners is great. I am not sure I could have ever finished my swap without it. Using it as a diagnostic aid alone really really helps. Not to mention the fact that you can fine tune crapola.

rockrod
11-01-2012, 03:02 PM
Congratulations!

Glad you have it finished and running well :) You know it may sound weird, but I don't mind the emissions test post swap... I feel like it forces you to get it all working like it is supposed to.

Also, I agree, HP tuners is great. I am not sure I could have ever finished my swap without it. Using it as a diagnostic aid alone really really helps. Not to mention the fact that you can fine tune crapola.

i should have invested in the software when I started this swap. I learned pretty quick that having to depend on someone out of state to make simple changes was pretty lame. I even bought a second PCM so that I would not be without a vehicle when making changes.

The software is cool. It's so easy to go in and do a scan and record a drive cycle and then play it back and make the changes where it needs it. I found out that a tune for an iron block 5.3l is not the same as the aluminum L33. The half point in increased compression makes the L33 very prone to pinging. Also, the difference in the air intake track skews the MAF output which in turns jacks up the LTFTs. I have had to dial that in as well. None of this could be done with a mail order tune.

I also like being able to fine tune the shifting characteristics of the 4L60e. That feature alone is worth the price of admission. I am going to develop secondary shift pattern that will activate through the tow/haul mode :)

rover67
11-01-2012, 04:33 PM
HA! I bought a secong PCM as well. Sending my PCM out of state over and over was horrible.

I also had to fine tune my MAF sensor to get rid of LTFT issues.

And yes, there are different tunes for all of them. surprisingly some tuners don't get that. It is actually surprising how little they know sometimes about something you'd imagine is pretty well known.

having a manual tranny I also played with how aggressively it holds idle with the idle air bypass.. made crawling a bit easier :) I think Rubicons do something similar.

It'll be cool to see what you come up with with the tow/haul shift stuff, that's a good idea :)

rockrod
11-01-2012, 04:39 PM
If you spend some time on the HP tuners forum it's spelled out on how to do it. The vortec trucks control the tow/haul through the serial connection and BCM, but it's possible to wire in pin 71 on the blue connector that provides a momentary ground, and this will cause the PCM to cycle through the normal and performance modes of the trans maps. So you could have one set up for 'normal' driving with a comfy cruiser and lots of torque management and another that will slam shift with no torque management.... I just don't know how long a stock 4L60e would hold up to that :)

I still want to go back and wire in the a/c request module so that the pcm can control the idle when the compressor cycles. It works for now, but it's not very smooth in the transition. lot's of stuff still to do..

rover67
11-01-2012, 05:25 PM
I still want to go back and wire in the a/c request module so that the pcm can control the idle when the compressor cycles. It works for now, but it's not very smooth in the transition. lot's of stuff still to do..

ahh, one thing i have not done. right now my AC comes on with no idle up. usually it is not a problem. sometimes it'll kill the motor.

that's the only thing i gotta do, 4 years and 100k miles after getting the swap driveable :D

rockrod
11-04-2012, 10:23 AM
another update:

Fixed my flaky tach issue. It turns out the output pulse signal in the vortec pcm was set wrong and was causing the stock indash tach to jump around. I reset the signal back to the stock LS1 4 count per rev and then using my dakota digital converter I was able to stabilize the gauge. Now it's smooth and responds correctly.

I also figured out how to activate the 'tow/haul' mode.

Normally the silverado trucks use the body control module to respond to the truck tow haul button and sends a request over the serial data to activate the secondary shift pattern. By activating the pin 71 in the blue connector, it now responds to a simple ground circuit request and momentary push button switch. By pushing the button once, the circuit from the pin 71 is ground to chassis and the PCM commands tow haul mode and raises the shift points, holds the gears longer, and firms up the shifts. Push the button again and it reverts to normal mode.

pretty cool! I can go back and edit the shift patterns later as needed.

rockrod
01-21-2013, 11:25 PM
Been awhile so it's time to update:

Nothing. It's been running great and averaging about 17 mpg on my daily commute to and from work. I have noticed the heater works very well, probably because the vortec likes to run about 195f. The fans don't kick on until it gets to 206 which is very infrequent.

I invested in the hp tuners software so that I could find tune the engine. Mail order tunes will get you running but it's impossible to dial the motor in like that. hp tuners is a godsend.

Finally the v8 power is a bit of a handful in the snow and ice. It's extremely easy to spin all four tires. It needs traction control.

Inukshuk
01-22-2013, 09:28 AM
Great to hear. Over here with your donor engine I have about 13,000 on my rebuild. Its running great. Its very strange to have zero oil consumption between changes. Plainly your rings were good! I think I finally tracked down the last super-slow coolant loss to the overflow bottle cap, but sending oil to Blackstone just to be sure. The gasket was a bit crusty so I gave it a good scrub and will see if that lets it seal. Otherwise the cap is about $10. Cap and bottle around $80. The triple fan pulley ever so slightly hits the back of the A/C belt so I plan to swap that out. I also have a PS line weep - I think the low pressure return from the gearbox. And still lousy fuel mileage and inherent traction control byproduct of a tractor engine.

corsair23
01-22-2013, 01:56 PM
Been awhile so it's time to update:

Nothing. It's been running great and averaging about 17 mpg on my daily commute to and from work. I have noticed the heater works very well, probably because the vortec likes to run about 195f. The fans don't kick on until it gets to 206 which is very infrequent.

Sweet :thumb:

When are you going to start offering outside sales and installation? :D

rockrod
01-22-2013, 08:59 PM
Sweet :thumb:

When are you going to start offering outside sales and installation? :D

I thought about it, but the time commitment is huge. I might sell this one in a year or so and try something different. I plan on using it a lot this summer now that the triplets are easier to deal with on long car rides.

rockrod
04-21-2014, 11:04 PM
So.... Another update. The cruiser is still running strong with the swapped in motor and trans. I did have to replace the radiator last week. The original lasted 193k miles.

My wife and I went for a weekend stay at devils thumb ranch and on the way back to pick up the kids, I started to notice the trans acting weird. It would not hold a gear. Then I noticed a smell of something burning. I checked the rear view mirror to make sure no one was following close and couldn't see out the back window. It was completely covered in oil. We pulled over and smoke was pouring from underneath and fluid was everywhere!

Apparently I did not reinstall one of the trans cooler lines and it tangled with the engine fan.

Now my cruiser is rust proof. I fixed the damaged hose and all is well, but what a mess.

rover67
04-21-2014, 11:15 PM
did you ever figure out the ac idle up?

rockrod
04-22-2014, 11:03 PM
I haven't. To many other pans in the fire that need tending. Once we get moved into the new house we are building I hope to get this worked out.