View Full Version : part id?
01-03-2012, 06:14 PM
Can someone inform me on what this part is, what it does and is it easily rebuildable? Mine seems to have a lot of play and isn't doing much. Thanks guys.
01-03-2012, 06:23 PM
Centerlink/center arm. It is a pivot and you can rebuild it.
01-03-2012, 06:36 PM
What Treeroot said. :D
01-03-2012, 07:40 PM
Thanks guys, would you say rebuilding that falls into the critical category or something that should be done at some point?
01-03-2012, 07:52 PM
That's your steering...I would put that in the "critical" catagory. If there is a lot of play in it, you really should rebuild it before putting your cruiser on the road.
01-03-2012, 08:15 PM
It is cheap and easy to rebuild so my first reaction is to say rebuild it. It will also make driving your cruiser more relaxing as you will not have more slop which adds to the stress of trying to keep it on the road.
That said, it won't really fail catastrophically and plenty of folks drive around with totally worn out center links. You just gotta move the wheel more to keep it in a lane of traffic.
How much does it move when you wiggle the steering? is it totally shot?
01-03-2012, 08:20 PM
Take a look at your pitman arm coming out of your steering box too. That, the center link, and the tie rod ends are all sources of play.
01-03-2012, 08:20 PM
sometimes you can eliminate a lot of slop just by adjusting the top of the center arm pivot. loosen the bolt, crank the top down tighter, tighten the bolt again
01-03-2012, 08:50 PM
Great info as always guys. Thanks! There is some play, but it doesn't seem too far gone. I think I'll get on with it though, looks like an easy "indoor" fix for when the weather turns cold again.
01-04-2012, 07:18 AM
FWIW, don't buy CCOT's kit, it was lame and I couldn't get the new spring to compress enough to install it. As a result mine still has some play.
01-04-2012, 09:50 AM
I'm not sure the CCoT (or '555') kit is horrible, but the bottom oil seal doesn't fit, and I have typically mixed/matched the OEM and replacement parts in the kit until I got a tight, smooth fit. I agree that the kit is lame as engineered/sold. I didn't recall the top spring being weak, but it wouldn't surprise me.
I didn't remove the bottom arm piece - you can disassemble and clean it all from the top pretty well. Don't make extra work for yourself.
Also, check the drag link end socket where the drag link attaches to the pitman arm coming out of the steering box. The screwdriver-slotted screw should be removed, cleaned, greased, and tightened.
01-04-2012, 09:57 AM
That drag link end can use the "two cents" trick if it is tightened all the way in and still has slop. You can drop a penny on each end of the link to tighten things up!
01-23-2012, 01:00 PM
X2 on the CCOT kit being lower quality. Their bushing just isn't as good as OEM. You can't truly rebuild it without taking the arm off the bottom, that's the only way to remove the cone shaped center part to replace it. A pickle fork works good.
01-24-2012, 09:35 AM
Or, pull all of that crap off, drop it in the lake for a boat anchor and do a conversion to a saginaw steering gear. Good power steering with no slop using inexpensive parts.:thumb:
01-26-2012, 09:25 PM
Once again I totally agree with Randy.
01-31-2012, 12:59 PM
Dont forget the rag joint. That is also a major contributor for sloppy steering in these old trucks.
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