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View Full Version : Will an "old" 8" ARB work in a high pinion diff?


ScaldedDog
01-07-2012, 10:53 AM
I'm looking to move to a HP front diff, but the ARB I'm using is from the late '90's. Do any of you know if they've changed over the years and, if so, is one of my vintage likely to work in a HP? Open 4.10's are pretty common, and I'd like to use my existing locker to keep the cost down.

Mark

ScaldedDog
01-07-2012, 10:58 AM
I might have found the answer (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=11621)... Randy, did you ever do that swap?

Mark

Uncle Ben
01-07-2012, 11:24 AM
Sure.....you can probably get all the parts needed for your mini truck axle here. (https://www.ckrccrawlers.com/tamiya-clodbuster-axles-steering-c-3_138_41.html)

ScaldedDog
01-07-2012, 11:37 AM
Cool. I was thinking of ordering one of the Trail Gear "conversion kits (http://www.trail-gear.com/high-pinion-conversion-kits)", as that looks to be less money than a $300 open HP diff, HP gears and setup kit. Had any experience with those? I'm not a big fan of trail gear, but the reviews of these online seem good.

Thanks,

Mark

60wag
01-07-2012, 01:19 PM
Sure.....you can probably get all the parts needed for your mini truck axle here. (https://www.ckrccrawlers.com/tamiya-clodbuster-axles-steering-c-3_138_41.html)

nice :)

Air Randy
01-07-2012, 03:32 PM
I might have found the answer (http://http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=11621)... Randy, did you ever do that swap?

Mark

I can't get that link to open. I bought a new HP carrier from TrailGear along with R&P, locker, etc and assembled it myself.

I bought tons of stuff from TrailGear and it was all good quality stuff. I never broke anything and when I had stuff I needed to return, or a warranty claim on a power steering pump, their customer service was great.

ScaldedDog
01-07-2012, 03:44 PM
Thanks Randy. I fixed the link: It's actually an old thread of yours. Their conversion kits are kind of like what you bought - HP housing, gears, setup kit, etc, for one price. This is sounding like the right way to go...

Mark

Red_Chili
01-10-2012, 02:17 PM
There have been changes in the ARBs and the new ones are better... but I am running an old one in my HP. Yep it will work fine.

You may want to update the O-ring design. The newer style that retrofits on the older design is somewhat better. The newest design, which does NOT retrofit, is (AFAIK) better yet.

But paid for is paid for.

Red_Chili
01-10-2012, 02:18 PM
Sure.....you can probably get all the parts needed for your mini truck axle here. (https://www.ckrccrawlers.com/tamiya-clodbuster-axles-steering-c-3_138_41.html)
Ah... good resource if I wanna build a 40 using mini parts like UB! :lmao:

ScaldedDog
01-11-2012, 08:45 AM
You may want to update the O-ring design. The newer style that retrofits on the older design is somewhat better.

Good idea. Did you just call ARB for the upgrade?

Mark

Uncle Ben
01-11-2012, 08:49 AM
Good idea. Did you just call ARB for the upgrade?

Mark

Never forget Rising Sun is very fortunate to have a friend in the ARB business!

Red_Chili
01-11-2012, 11:58 AM
Slee can help you, Val at High Country 4x4 can help (it was closer to me at that time, but Slee is closer now!), or you can contact ARB direct. Kinda depends on which ARB you have (RD23?) and you have to replace the end cap along with air bearing. More surface area, and X-cross section O-rings have got to seal better and still seal with wear.

On the other hand, the little rubber O-ring seal design on the line itself is less positive (I think, others may differ) and a little odd, and the line is a smaller diameter than the old one. But mine is working just fine so, meh. Just don't overtighten the compression on the O-ring or it WILL pinch off the copper line! I think they went with that design thinking that sometimes, pressure from an odd bend of the copper line might keep the O-rings from self centering, thus leaking. So this lets the assembly float more freely. And test for leaks over several days before installing, standard operating procedure I should think. You can make a test adapter with some blue line and SAE hardware parts, a shraeder valve, etc.

Embarrassing self-disclosure: I also used a bit much red lock-tite on the bolts the first go-round. Broke the plastic basket upon operation once it set up, because it went more places than I intended. I know the ARB purists just use the metal clips, but geez nothing holds them on but friction and I do NOT want them floating around only to blow up the ring and pinion. I am not the only one who does this. Just do NOT use too much.

While you are in there, if you still have the old all-rubber U-shaped piston (looks like a grooved skinny bagel really), change that out too. The newer design hard piston is better. Be sure to lube it before putting it in place, dry rubber or Viton or whatever it is wears quickly under pressure.

Happy wrenching!