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View Full Version : ARB Compressor Won't Shut off


DougDad
01-29-2012, 08:52 AM
Used my ARB compressor (CKMA12/24) to air up a neighbors flat tire. This compressor is pretty new. Used on several runs only. Problem is that when I was done with filing the tire the compressor would not shut off. Switch in the cab did nothing. Only way to shut the compressor off was to disconnect the power supply to it. Both the front and rear air locker switches were in the off position. So all switches in the off position. Thinking that maybe the pressure switch may be defective. Is there an easy answer to this problem?
Will get out there this morning with a soap/water solution and see if I can get any leaks around the compressor fittings. Just can't imagine that this unit would start leaking after being installed for a year and not having a problem until now.
Doug

rover67
01-29-2012, 09:09 AM
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.offroaders.com/tech/images/RDCKA-ARB-wiring-12-volt-p.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.offroaders.com/tech/ARB-air-locker-diagrams.htm&h=1110&w=400&sz=75&tbnid=LSOxXN9lGshY0M:&tbnh=102&tbnw=37&zoom=1&docid=dNrHInQar8BpIM&sa=X&ei=iG4lT_6LL4eCsgLIqeGMAg&ved=0CDkQ9QEwAA&dur=6378

not a great diagram, but I ma thinking that the relay should function to shut off the compressor. If the switch powers it off it should stop even if the pressure switch is still saying go.

See if pulling the relay does anything, maybe it is sticking? They aren't too expensive at the parts stores.... I have had several go bad, but they usually go bad in the open position and wont work for me..

Unplug the compressor power wires so you can work with the system engerzied but it won't keep pumping

rover67
01-29-2012, 09:22 AM
Maybe just see if that relay has 12 volts at the dark blue wire. If not then the Pins for the Red and red/white wires should NOT have continuity.

RockRunner
01-29-2012, 11:33 AM
Everything Marco said and tap the relay a little. I have had mine stick on my E-locker set up anad tapping them got me home. Replaced them after and all was well, either way not a bad idea to carry one or two extra relays, I do.
Good luck and let us know the outcome.

DougDad
01-29-2012, 05:46 PM
First, thanks for the quick replay and the helpful suggestions. Looks like it could be the relay. Managed to pull it out and it had some corrosion on the female connection extending into the housing of the relay. Looks like this connection is a natural site for water collection. Will see if I can get a new relay in a few days....maybe a couple of them.
Doug

Caribou Sandstorm
01-29-2012, 06:05 PM
Just curious, are these relays, kind of generic and available where?

RockRunner
01-29-2012, 09:28 PM
Just curious, are these relays, kind of generic and available where?

Pretty much, I got mine at Checker's. I just took mine in so we could match it up. I am not the best electrical person to give you info but I have been able to pull one from my lights to use on my lockers. I am sure somebody will give you a better answer or the Google search ;)

One thing I do know is that a spare is a good thing DAMHIK :rolleyes:

rover67
01-29-2012, 10:53 PM
Yeah, they are the same basic relays that are use for light kits and stuff from the major stores. Should be able to find them most places....

here's a common source, the first several on the list would work:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Electrical/Relay-and-Resistors/_/N-2659?filterByKeyWord=relay&fromString=search

DougDad
02-03-2012, 01:56 PM
Hey Rover67! You were right on! I had time at lunch today to run by NAPA and get a relay. (AR143 for $12.18). Bingo, plugged it in, plugged the power wires back together at the compressor. Compressor didn't come on...a good sign. Flipped the compressor switch in the cab and we have power! Thanks Marco, I would still be messing around looking for an air line leak without your input.
Doug

DaveInDenver
02-03-2012, 02:12 PM
The Bosch Mini-B (0 332 019 or V23234 type) relay is literally everywhere. The quality varies very widely depending on who made it since they are copied extensively. They might all look the same but they sure as heck all aren't built the same.

I personally get real Tyco or Robert Bosch branded ones, they are available at most distributors (Digikey, Mouser) or suppliers (Waytek). I've seen made in Germany, Portugal or Mexico on them. Tyco guarantees them for around 125K to 250K switch cycles under load. It depends on the load type, resistive loads are easier on them compared to inductive loads like a motor. They usually cost about $5 or $6 online.

rover67
02-03-2012, 02:19 PM
Sweet!!

Yeah Dave, glad you pointed that out, I have noticed a big difference in quality on some of these relays... Good Idea to order them from a place that you can get good ones. I'll have to do that for my spares.

DaveInDenver
02-03-2012, 02:25 PM
Sweet!!

Yeah Dave, glad you pointed that out, I have noticed a big difference in quality on some of these relays... Good Idea to order them from a place that you can get good ones. I'll have to do that for my spares.
It's also worth pointing out that most times the rating stamped or implicit in the part number is for purely resistive loads. So a 30A relay is designed to switch 30A into a light bulb, for example. But this relay would not switch 30A into a motor for very long, typically the derating is ~1/3rd. IOW, a 30A relay good for 250K cycles is really only guaranteed for 20A reactive and likely for a reduced number of cycles at that. If the ARB compressor draws say 20A and being that we drive our trucks in hot and cold temps, mud and crud, it's best to be very conservative and use a 40A or 50A relay, which will probably last for 100K cycles. Most likely the plastic will get brittle and break before the contacts weld.