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simps80
03-04-2012, 09:06 PM
1976 fj40 -

Treeroot, John, and I had quite an adventure yesterday. The destination was Saratoga, WY the location of a very nice unmolested 40, May 1976 build date, which is interestingly to me the same month and year my wife was born.

Maybe Mike will post up the crazy road trip pictures; lots of ice packed roads...

This is a really clean unmolested 40. The only problem is, it will be a bit of a project to get it moving under its own power. For some unknown reason the P.O. before the P.O. pulled the motor and its nowhere to be found.

I bought it from a nice guy who owned it for about a month, I'm sure he made a nice profit, I'm okay with that, it is very nice.

The deal came with among a trailer full of other things of varying usefulness, the advanced adapter to put a small block chevy in it...Not that there's necessarily anything wrong with that, but this thing is original enough that I think it best to put back in it as close to a heart as what came out of it.

So......
that's the plan, get it running with a good smog-legal 2f in as short of order as possible, piece together emissions and exhaust and drive it.

I'll post some pics and reserve some spots for future use :
27388

27389

27390

27391

simps80
03-04-2012, 09:07 PM
<place holder.

27392

27393

27394

27395

27396

simps80
03-04-2012, 09:08 PM
<place holder.
27398

treerootCO
03-04-2012, 09:14 PM
That is one purdy 40.

27400

27401

27402

27405

Jacket
03-04-2012, 09:18 PM
Yes indeed. Mine is a 5/76 as well - but I have more rust... Congrats!

simps80
03-04-2012, 09:25 PM
oh nice!
might be asking lots of questions/sneaking pictures :-)

Shark Bait
03-04-2012, 09:49 PM
Very nice! Has to have a 2F. :thumb:

subzali
03-05-2012, 07:28 AM
Nice find Mike! With that carb cooling fan, I bet it's a California emissions vehicle. What color is the emissions sticker on the hood - white with black letters or black with white letters?

Interesting that it doesn't have the EGR light like Matt's does...

RicardoJM
03-05-2012, 07:28 AM
Nice looking 40. Drop an engine and drivetrain in and get it on the road:D.

MDH33
03-05-2012, 07:31 AM
WooHoo! :thumb:

Glad someone in the club snagged that one! I saw it on CL and thought it looked like a gem.

FJBRADY
03-05-2012, 07:42 AM
Very nice!

treerootCO
03-05-2012, 07:58 AM
Nice find Mike! With that carb cooling fan, I bet it's a California emissions vehicle. What color is the emissions sticker on the hood - white with black letters or black with white letters?

Interesting that it doesn't have the EGR light like Matt's does...

The carb Mike has is stamped E41. I was trying to find out on SOR if it was Federal or Cali but the carbs look the same. Going off memory, the hood lable is black with white letters.

11/75-7/76 Federal
1/76-7/76 California
8/76-8/77 Federal

subzali
03-05-2012, 08:22 AM
Mike, that carb code doesn't make sense. Needs to have a number, then a letter, then 1 or 2 numbers. Ex: 8 L 12 (mine).

The cali carbs are certainly different for some of those model years listed than the Federal carbs. If simps can post a pic I'm sure we could identify it.

rover67
03-05-2012, 08:41 AM
that's a slick looking rig.

3FE?

nakman
03-05-2012, 08:43 AM
Very sweet, congrats! Wow where to start...

Jacket
03-05-2012, 09:00 AM
Nice find Mike! With that carb cooling fan, I bet it's a California emissions vehicle. What color is the emissions sticker on the hood - white with black letters or black with white letters?

Interesting that it doesn't have the EGR light like Matt's does...

Hmmm...and I don't have a carb fan. I guess the fan could have been added later.

simps80
03-05-2012, 09:03 AM
The 'trailer full of stuff' included a '75 missing its front axle ...
it had a 'complete' engine and 4speed etc.

We barely even looked at the '75 before driving off with the 76 on the trailer...didn't much care, other than it had a builder if we needed it. Might be able to salvage some more stuff off of it later...

It also came with a block, head, crank, pan, possibly 6 pistons and rods. Mike pulled the serial numbers off of block and head and determined the block is a 2F Nov 2, 1976 vintage and the head casting is Oct 31, 1976.

the block, and crank have been machined (but likely will need to be done again, they were left out in the weather and got a bit of rust)

so that's probably next step... block, head, crank, internals, off to machine shop, pull the 4spd and flywheel/clutch/bellhousing off the '75 for re-use and start from there.

subzali
03-05-2012, 09:43 AM
Wow, that block and head almost match my '77 perfectly! Don't happen to have a carb from that same engine do you?

SteveH
03-05-2012, 10:05 AM
Nice truck! Good idea on sticking with a 2F - that truck deserves it. Consider a later 2F from an FJ60 - might be cheaper than a rebuild, and many of those later 2Fs are totally viable even with most of 200K on them.

subzali
03-05-2012, 10:06 AM
3FE?

That's a swell idea as well...

cbmontgo
03-05-2012, 10:41 AM
Same month and year as mine. Looks like a nice find!

Romer
03-05-2012, 10:50 AM
Nice Mike

I saw that ad and was pondering it. Glad it went to a good home!

Whats the 75 look like?

Ken

wesintl
03-05-2012, 10:50 AM
Schweet 40!

Rezarf
03-05-2012, 01:13 PM
Looks awesome, I love the color! :)

let me know if you start to sell the AA parts.

Corbet
03-05-2012, 01:34 PM
3FE?

Personally that's what I would do too. Full FJ62 drivetrain.

treerootCO
03-05-2012, 06:52 PM
8 E 17

27412

simps80
03-05-2012, 07:30 PM
Looks awesome, I love the color! :)

let me know if you start to sell the AA parts.

sure will.

Nice Mike

I saw that ad and was pondering it. Glad it went to a good home!

Whats the 75 look like?

Ken

Thanks, I am glad to own it. The 75 is clapped out. Not sure about the mechanicals though, its got a 4 speed and who knows what else yet ... need to do a full inventory of everything


Personally that's what I would do too. Full FJ62 drivetrain.

I like this idea, read a good article on it, http://bushrat.hdcruisers.org/3FEconversion.pdf
but just getting it back to stock is daunting enough...

I'm excited about the whole thing though.

talk about daunting: the after looks so far off...

27415

27416

subzali
03-05-2012, 07:50 PM
yeah, well, they have an A/C compressor wedged in there too. And a power steering pump. So don't worry too much ;)

8 E 17 is 1978, May 17 build date. I see the E 17 on the top of that carb, but it's stamped in the wrong spot. It should be on that boss just to the left of the E 17.

That, however, is not a '78 carb. If it was it would have the bowl vent coming off the top. In addition, a federal '78 carb would also have the Hot Idle Compensation (HIC) box, and a California would have two vacuum ports on the top front rather than one. It looks to me to be a '75 or '76 carb, not sure if Federal or California. How many vacuum ports does it have on the side, where the idle adjustment screw is?

kurtnkegger
03-05-2012, 09:05 PM
The 8 cast on the carb identifies the hose that goes to the #8 port on the emissions control box. At least that is how things are numbered on my '77

PhatFJ
03-06-2012, 07:45 AM
Nice 40!! Depending on what you are looking to do, stock restoration or dd / trail rig, let this point you the direction with the drive train. Stock restoration is going to increase the resale value considerably but if you are looking to build the dd / trail rig then the sky is the limit on choices. Let you desire and wallet be determining factor.. If you do decide to go with the 3FE, I have one you can go through, it has about 200K on it and is a long block, compression is fair and you can have it cheep.. $400.00 no harness though. Good luck with you new project, great find!!! :thumb: :thumb:

Hulk
03-06-2012, 08:12 AM
Wow, super cool 40! Can't wait to see it back on the road. :)

simps80
03-06-2012, 02:41 PM
for later reference I'll lose this IM

27438

Old40Dog
03-06-2012, 02:51 PM
Truly a great find Mike! Good luck with the resto.

Rezarf
03-06-2012, 03:52 PM
My buddy down the street has a full 3FE setup if you ever want to take a peek... it is a slick setup and it sounds AWESOME! That and the 60 springs, SOA... its a bad little truck in general.

Drew

simps80
03-06-2012, 06:43 PM
My buddy down the street has a full 3FE setup if you ever want to take a peek... it is a slick setup and it sounds AWESOME! That and the 60 springs, SOA... its a bad little truck in general.

Drew

I think I've settled on the 2f route...stock restoration mode, the 3fe setup does seem more practical though as far as driveability concerns go....

Truly a great find Mike! Good luck with the resto.



Wow, super cool 40! Can't wait to see it back on the road. :)

Nice 40!! Depending on what you are looking to do, stock restoration or dd / trail rig, let this point you the direction with the drive train. snip..
Good luck with you new project, great find!!! :thumb: :thumb:


Thanks guys, I'm excited for the challenge

yeah, well, they have an A/C compressor wedged in there too. And a power steering pump. So don't worry too much ;)



and a motor :lmao:

thanks for the encouragement everyone. I might have a line on a complete 78 2f as the starting point, so I'm encouraged right now.

going out to the garage to make vroom vroom noises
:)

kvanoort
03-06-2012, 06:46 PM
Looks like a great cruiser to start with. Keep the pictures and progress coming.

subzali
03-06-2012, 08:11 PM
A good-running 2F is just as driveable as a 3FE, good choice :thumb:

Rezarf
03-07-2012, 02:25 PM
A good-running 2F is just as driveable as a 3FE, good choice :thumb:

You should come ride in my buddies Matt, no denying there is mo' power and smoother acceleration in the 3FE...

Now if I left the 2f it will only to gain gobs of horse power. :thumb:

simps80
03-11-2012, 06:59 PM
Worked on a couple little things today.

Drug it over to the local spray-n-wash to get all the grime off from the trip home. The wife drove the 80 towing the 40...so proud :Princess: :thumb:

ran into Christo there in his self-powered BMW very :cool: car.

anyway here's a clean one as she sits in the corner

27515

the other thing was the rear ambi doors didn't open/shut correctly, the passenger side just needed some lubing the driver side needed the rod to the bottom adjusted. Had to use a screw driver to get it open, now they both function as they should

I love Toyota's engineering, the rod is cam'd with a nut and bolt so easy

27516

Anyway; hope to get the engine thing squared away soon.

so tempting to go full blown OCD with this thing and start taking it all apart and powder coating everything and painting bolts and craziness... don't want to do that; want to get it going and drive it.

simps80
03-11-2012, 09:05 PM
Nice find Mike! With that carb cooling fan, I bet it's a California emissions vehicle. What color is the emissions sticker on the hood - white with black letters or black with white letters?

Interesting that it doesn't have the EGR light like Matt's does...

black w/ white letters you were absolutely right, CA emissions vehicle.

27527

good news is according to this:
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=16771&highlight=1976+emissions+egr+air+rail&page=2

begin quote excerpt:
"
Update:
In case anyone is interested, I called the emissions ref and was informed if you live in the enhanced emissions area I could pass my 1977 fj40 2f with header and no EGR as long as I installed the air injection system.
So I promptly spent the next couple of hours installing the AI system and went to the Air Care Colorado and passed. Still runs good. I can't tell much of a difference.
Hopefully you wont hear any more of my whining about emissions
"
end quote excerpt

I only need an air pump and air rail.

right ?

MDH33
03-12-2012, 07:32 AM
so tempting to go full blown OCD with this thing and start taking it all apart and powder coating everything and painting bolts and craziness... don't want to do that; want to get it going and drive it.

It's such a clean rig, I can understand what you mean.



I only need an air pump and air rail.

right ?

I believe so. I think I have both for a '77 2F if you need them. At a minimum, I would try to get it to pass without all the other stuff first before you go through the hassle of trying to re-smog it.

treerootCO
03-12-2012, 07:39 AM
...I think I have both for a '77 2F if you need them. At a minimum, I would try to get it to pass without all the other stuff first before you go through the hassle of trying to re-smog it.

1976 missed the Ritter cutoff for collectors plates by one year :( Because of that, he needs to pass emissions every two years. I am hoping the 76 doesn't need an EGR but I would put the catalytic converter, smog pump, air rails, and the VSV stuff on it.

MDH33
03-12-2012, 07:50 AM
1976 missed the Ritter cutoff for collectors plates by one year :( Because of that, he needs to pass emissions every two years. I am hoping the 76 doesn't need an EGR but I would put the catalytic converter, smog pump, air rails, and the VSV stuff on it.

Does it already have a catalytic convertor on it? If so, the other stuff will be easy. Also, based on that other thread about the '77 with headers, it sounded like they passed with just the air rail and pump. :)

I'm bummed about the collector plates too. My '80 hilux needs to pass every two years also.

wesintl
03-12-2012, 08:05 AM
76 didn't have a cat. doesn't mean you can't run one to be cleaner.

I bet you would be fine with an air rail and pump.

Jacket
03-12-2012, 09:08 AM
Yea - not cats on the '76. Mine passed 5 years ago with a functional EGR and no air pump, but it required carb and timing adjustments (that I can't remember the details on any more....).

subzali
03-12-2012, 09:40 AM
I wouldn't take it apart. Clean it up and enjoy driving it. Seen too many rigs get taken apart and then never get put back together again.

MDH33
03-12-2012, 10:00 AM
I wouldn't take it apart. Clean it up and enjoy driving it. Seen too many rigs get taken apart and then never get put back together again.

Agree 100%. Let us know when you're going to drop in the 2F. I would be happy to lend a hand. You're going to love having it on the road/trail. :thumb:

treerootCO
03-12-2012, 10:23 AM
Does it already have a catalytic convertor on it?...

76 didn't have a cat. doesn't mean you can't run one to be cleaner.

I bet you would be fine with an air rail and pump.

Yea - not cats on the '76....

I was thinking '76 was the first year based off of the 6,000 GVW and higher specs that dd not require them in '76. Looks like Toyota ran them from 1/79-1984. Cool, so no cats :)

1/75-12/78 FJ40
27528

Exhaust manifold flange (http://forum.ih8mud.com/metric-tlc/366158-new-2f-3f-manifold-down-pipe-flange.html)

Rzeppa
03-20-2012, 02:37 PM
Sweet! Nice find!

My Kalifornia 1976 came with EGR, but I am told that federal didn't get them until 1978. The head dude at Colorado AIR who tested my 1978 FJ45 told me flat out that we don't need EGR up here on the old iron because combustion temps don't get high enough to make much NxOx. You do need the smog pump though. It doesn't need to work, just look like it's working. I had mine mounted but disconnected for about 15 years and she always passed every year. Just before the test I would throw the belt on, then take it back off after it passed.

subzali
03-20-2012, 02:50 PM
Sweet! Nice find!

My Kalifornia 1976 came with EGR, but I am told that federal didn't get them until 1978. The head dude at Colorado AIR who tested my 1978 FJ45 told me flat out that we don't need EGR up here on the old iron because combustion temps don't get high enough to make much NxOx. You do need the smog pump though. It doesn't need to work, just look like it's working. I had mine mounted but disconnected for about 15 years and she always passed every year. Just before the test I would throw the belt on, then take it back off after it passed.

According to SOR, California EGR started in 9/'73 ('74 model year), and Federal EGR started in 1/75 (late '75 model year?). My Federal '77 has it...

simps80
04-23-2013, 10:32 PM
so...been staring at it for a year now, accumulating ...stuff...

found a complete 2f with a March of 76 production date, (serial number 080859), fits nicely with the May of 76 vehicle date.

Here it is:

32734

it was a bit rusty. it was cheap.
the guy said it has been sitting in his garage since the mid 80s.

so I took a chance on it...
put a spare hook on the rear to lift it so I could mount it on the stand...

finally found the right orientation of the plate and arms for the stand to fit nice and square and centered without hitting rear main housing etc.

its 12x1.75x80 times 4 plus 4 12mm flat washers per, between block and stands...

32737

as rusty as it was, I was worried it would be seized, but it cranked over perfectly with very very little pressure on the front nut so I was encouraged.

I was planning on pulling the head to have it gone through, then investigate what the inside looks like while the head was off....

I fought a lot of bolts removing all of the externals so I was a bit concerned what the inside will look like, but it turned over so nicely and the exhaust ports were puffing nicely.

I was more concerned when I pulled the valve cover .....

simps80
04-23-2013, 10:40 PM
I was even more concerned when it took a 36" cheater bar and a can of pb blaster to get the head bolt by #3 exhaust out...

but it eventually came out.

as it sits now I'm ready to take the head off everythings removed and ready to go, but the head has told me its not ready to come off yet.

I can literally lift the whole engine connected to the stand by the head with nothing mechanical attaching it to the block...!!! :D

we'll see, its soaking again tonight, i'll give her another shot tomorrow or thursday.

I would love to use this engine because its from a CA emissions 76 like the cruiser is, but if its not usable its not usable. I just have to think it is based on how easy it turns over....

we'll see.

subzali
04-24-2013, 08:16 AM
It's not uncommon for heads to be difficult to remove. There are little slots on the side you can put a large screwdriver or pry bar and pry up or whack with a mallet. Hopefully you'll be golden after a head rebuild if the engine turns over smoothly.

It's also recommended to chase the head bolt threads in the block before reassembly. I'm sure you're already getting good help with this project though :thumb:

simps80
04-24-2013, 08:33 AM
It's not uncommon for heads to be difficult to remove. There are little slots on the side you can put a large screwdriver or pry bar and pry up or whack with a mallet. Hopefully you'll be golden after a head rebuild if the engine turns over smoothly.

It's also recommended to chase the head bolt threads in the block before reassembly. I'm sure you're already getting good help with this project though :thumb:

before I lifted the engine by the head with all the bolts out (wow) I whacked it to death and used the side slot to pry extensively, but I haven't given up yet.
:)

DaveInDenver
04-24-2013, 08:41 AM
It's also recommended to chase the head bolt threads in the block before reassembly. I'm sure you're already getting good help with this project though :thumb:
It was mentioned to me and probably worth parroting, when you chase the head bolt threads use a thread chase, either a manufactured one or something you make, and not a tap. You don't want to remove any material you don't have to, especially from good threads.

I ended up making my own since all the tooling I had long enough were bottoming taps. I used a long 10.9 bolt, cut 3 slots along the length with a die grinder and ran it through a die to clean its threads. My 22R short block was factory new but I got a few small pieces of debris, although nothing more than dirt and paint.

Caribou Sandstorm
04-24-2013, 10:03 AM
Wow, great thread, great find!!

simps80
04-24-2013, 11:39 PM
Wow, great thread, great find!!

Thanks!

so I made some progress...after soaking over night with 2 cans of pb blaster and more lifting by the head and dead blows etc the head came off.
there was an astonishing amount of rust chunks and carbon chunks that I assume was just gluing it down.

I spent a good 3 hours cleaning it, taped off the hols, left the head bolts in :blah:
and this is where it stands with a crappy cell phone pic cause I broke the lcd on the nikon (14 dollars for new lcd on ebay...i love ebay...but I digress)

32749

simps80
04-24-2013, 11:56 PM
I do have a problem that I would like input on though.

the pistons are all stamped ra2648 .075 then 0.04 UD

.075 converts from MM to .0295 inches so I'm assuming this is .30 over...searching on mud reveals that's true:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/176742-repco-piston-part-number-info.html

but I can't figure out 0.04 UD.

I care because number 3 has a gouge the radius of which matches the intake valve:

32750

so...I wonder if these are .04 "under height" to allow for block and head decking.

I would assume so, which then makes me ask why #3 got smacked..

so do you concur this is the valve contacting the piston? I think that's the only logical explanation for this shape and location, I should have taken a picture with the camera orientated square so the location of the mark was more clear, but it lines up with the intake valve.

for it to be one valve to piston, my likely flawed logic rules out too much milling of the head or block or other causes like timing that should affect more than one hole.

so ... floated valves and one kissed the piston?

its not deep, can catch your finger nail on it just barely is all ...
the cylinder walls are pure,
I think I'll continue with original plan and have the head reworked, I'll check the block for warpage, then turn it over and look at the bottom end before deciding on anything for certain especially since its already been rebuilt at least once it would appear.

thoughts on that approach?

60wag
04-25-2013, 06:02 AM
Doesn't the notch in the piston point to the front of the truck? If so, the nick in the piston looks too close to the centerline of the pistion to be the edge of the valve, (or you have some really small valves.)

Does the head or block have any numbers stamped on them? The shop that decked my 2F head stamped an "050" on it to indicate to future generations that it had been shaved 0.050".

treerootCO
04-25-2013, 06:19 AM
The internet says the pistons are made by Rebco and or ACL. The "RA" means it is a set of pistons (rings not included).

http://www.acl.com.au/

Piston:
RA2648 = piston only (was probably ordered as part of a rebuild kit)
6KRY2648 = KRY (contains Plain rings)
6MKRY2648 = MKRY (contains Premium rings - Moly or Chrome)

TOP UD ???
TOP YD ???
TOP YC ???
TOP YK ???
TOP CF ??? - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-2F-Motor-Pistons-/321097303887?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4ac2e4074f&nma=true&si=cawT9I99NfMWNhsMLFBGut1ABkM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


Still working on the UD marking...

http://www.mitsubishilinks.com/fsm/acl_pistonproducts_pp99.pdf
Page 199

This was the kit that included RA pistons:

http://www.acl.com.au/web/aclwebsite.nsf/8429d5ffb75b23264a2569980025aac6/b5f1bac53d38e394ca256afc007c9674/$FILE/FitBuild.pdf

page 9

I like finding similarities on the web. This guy has the same question as you with the same conclusion even though his is marked with YC instead of UD...

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/176742-repco-piston-part-number-info.html

simps80
04-25-2013, 08:21 AM
I do have a problem that I would like input on though.

the pistons are all stamped ra2648 .075 then 0.04 UD

.075 converts from MM to .0295 inches so I'm assuming this is .30 over...searching on mud reveals that's true:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/176742-repco-piston-part-number-info.html

but I can't figure out 0.04 UD.

<snip>




<snip>

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/176742-repco-piston-part-number-info.html


yep :thumb:

Air Randy
04-25-2013, 08:25 AM
The valve head could have detached from the stem too. For me, if I have an engine on the stand, I'm going to at least disassemble the bottom end and check everything out. You had enough rust in that motor I would check the rod and main bearing journals and drop in new bearings, they're cheap. Replace the rear main seal at the same time. Check the oil pump to make sure the clearances are good and there is no rust or chunks in it. Check the play and thrust on the timing gears, etc. Super easy to do at this stage. Its not much more of a step to pop the pistons, hone the cylinders and put in new rings too. For very little money you then have a known good motor versus just hoping everything is OK.

Dont assume just because it turns over easy that everything is OK, who knows why it was pulled out originally?

simps80
04-25-2013, 08:26 AM
Doesn't the notch in the piston point to the front of the truck? If so, the nick in the piston looks too close to the centerline of the pistion to be the edge of the valve, (or you have some really small valves.)

Does the head or block have any numbers stamped on them? The shop that decked my 2F head stamped an "050" on it to indicate to future generations that it had been shaved 0.050".

I'll look for any markings on block and head,

yes the notch does point to the front, the first picture you can kind of see how close the mark is to the center line

when I get the nikon fixed I can post better pictures too.

simps80
04-25-2013, 08:28 AM
The valve head could have detached from the stem too. For me, if I have an engine on the stand, I'm going to at least disassemble the bottom end and check everything out. You had enough rust in that motor I would check the rod and main bearing journals and drop in new bearings, they're cheap. Replace the rear main seal at the same time. Check the oil pump to make sure the clearances are good and there is no rust or chunks in it. Check the play and thrust on the timing gears, etc. Super easy to do at this stage. Its not much more of a step to pop the pistons, hone the cylinders and put in new rings too. For very little money you then have a known good motor versus just hoping everything is OK.

Dont assume just because it turns over easy that everything is OK, who knows why it was pulled out originally?

noted, thanks for that.

the guy pulled it to put a v8 in he said. but he also said that was the mid 80s so I think you're right, its probably best to take the next step.

simps80
09-09-2013, 04:44 PM
update...
so its been a while ...again.

latest:
I took the engine apart, took it down to gunn had them go through it and machine everything.
started putting it together, Mike stops by: "I think flat top pistons with this head is not right"

he's right. I wish I had caught that before paying all that $ for the head work....

I have open chamber head with flat top pistons ... probably why the guy pulled it to begin with, ran like crap, like 6.5 to 1 or something.
oh well, I learned stuff.

biggest problem is there are no oversized domed pistons, NLA except for std
So...I have 3 options:
1. buy custom pistons ($700 to $1200 depending on source)
2. mill the crap (.100) out of the open chamber head to get compression up w/ flat tops
3. source a later 2f head with closed chamber

I am going with number 3....hopefully...

http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?p=238836#post238836

while I waited on gunn, I rebuilt my carb, pretty fun project, ricardo's thread was a big help thanks Ricardo! I had the 2f manual, his thread, a camera, a pad and pencil and patience.

before:
34519

during:
34520

after:
34521

Rzeppa
09-09-2013, 06:14 PM
Check with Bill at Mile High Performance, he seems to be able to source unobtainium parts for Land Cruiser engines. Another option is to sleeve the cylinders so they can accept stock sized pistons. Gunn should have known better though!

BTW, I know of a few people who have used F heads on 2F blocks to get better compression. The only gotcha is having to oil the rockers, which is just some extra work. If you want to go that route I have a good F head you can have for free.

SteveH
09-10-2013, 08:29 AM
If you want a 2F head, post the casting number you want. I have one in my garage you can have, as well as a later 1F head with air-injection fittings. Both would need some work, but both are free if you need them.

simps80
09-10-2013, 01:29 PM
Check with Bill at Mile High Performance, he seems to be able to source unobtainium parts for Land Cruiser engines. Another option is to sleeve the cylinders so they can accept stock sized pistons. Gunn should have known better though!

BTW, I know of a few people who have used F heads on 2F blocks to get better compression. The only gotcha is having to oil the rockers, which is just some extra work. If you want to go that route I have a good F head you can have for free.

Thanks Jeff for the offer i'll let you know on that, Bill at mtn high presumably couldn't find any since he never called me back.


If you want a 2F head, post the casting number you want. I have one in my garage you can have, as well as a later 1F head with air-injection fittings. Both would need some work, but both are free if you need them.


Steve, thanks, I think its 61040 for post 81 2f closed chambered head.

jps8460
09-10-2013, 01:30 PM
I checked with epwi and itm units in all sizes except std have been on back order since march. And they don't think they are coming in anytime soon. My source for sealed power units said check eBay and parts stores sometimes you can find them sitting in a warehouse.

I think your best bet is to find another head. I think your valves and springs will interchange. So you'll just be in for guides seats seals and machine work.

Bummer man good luck!

simps80
09-10-2013, 09:45 PM
I checked with epwi and itm units in all sizes except std have been on back order since march. And they don't think they are coming in anytime soon. My source for sealed power units said check eBay and parts stores sometimes you can find them sitting in a warehouse.

I think your best bet is to find another head. I think your valves and springs will interchange. So you'll just be in for guides seats seals and machine work.

Bummer man good luck!

Hey thanks for checking anyways..appreciate it...I pretty much gave up the hunt for pistons..it was a fun hunt though..

PabloCruise
10-22-2013, 04:03 PM
Another option is to sleeve the cylinders so they can accept stock sized pistons...


Sounds this fate may await all us "domers" unless another batch of domed pistons in various oversize options materializes...

:(

simps80
11-15-2013, 11:31 PM
:) <---that's me now

ok the questions of what to do are answered.

For a brief summary of the goings on....:
-1975 to 1980 2f's came with domed pistons
-those match with 6103x heads that are open chambered
-you can't find domed pistons anymore..like anywhere, it seems.
-that means you're screwed unless you find a 6104x head which are used on later 2f's and you use the later flat top pistons that are still available, or you get really really lucky and find a set of domed pistons that someone had sitting around.

.....
so long story long, after 2 complete engines and lots of weirdness...
I brought all the newly machine parts back from Gunn using combinations of two motors, enough I thought to put back together a nice rebuilt fully machined 2f for my project from Gunn only to realize the pistons I was planning to use were the flat tops and not suitable for the 61030 head I had rebuilt.

I found a 61040 head from SteveH on the forum and dropped that off to be rebuilt and still haven't heard back from them on whether or not it can be rebuilt or not

in the meantine (over the past 4 months) Mike D's ebay skills are awesome....he found what amounts to a brand new set of domed 2f pistons RY6215-040 (1.00mm or .040" oversized) over two separate auctions...I've been watching for these and calling around for months, and he found them...

so for posterity's sake, and because I like pictures, here's some pics of all this domed and open chamber business that I wish had been pictured somewhere else when I started this....

man these look good!
35442
35443

these will match much mo better with the 61030 :
35444
35445

simps80
11-15-2013, 11:40 PM
now anyone still paying close attention will note that these are 1.00mm (.040") oversized domed ry6215-040 pistons and I've been blathering on and on about .030" or .75mm oversized bores and flat tops....

...hold please for a brief interlude to show another picture with questionable archival significance....



35446


so yes, that means one more trip down to ol' Gunn to do ^ that again..but only the part about boring the block to .040 from .030 to use the shiny new slugs.

and just because I enjoy ridiculous-pictures-I-usually-find-on-the-internet-but-this-one-was-shot-from-my-driveway-yes-i-am-that-dumb....

I didn't do it this way again:

35447

that ^ represents a marginally useful set of l3,4,and 5 vertebrae now.....no one ever accused me of above average intelligence. But hey, my wife got a new car and left me with this purple sienna I thought it would be better if, because its purple and its a mini-van, it at least smelled like oil ... I was wrong..but dang that thing is nice to drive with a busted up lower back, its like driving a sofa.

simps80
11-15-2013, 11:45 PM
So that's my trip around the past 4 or so months ...

:beer::beer::beer:

yes that's 3 cheers to Mike D for finding useful and nearly impossible to find pistons and for not letting me use my sweet dream purple mini-van this time to haul crap. if you have ever heard me mention the sienna during introductions at RS meetings and wondered who is this goofball and why is he talking about his van......
if you broke your back right after inheriting that bad-bad-man-mobile trying to prove its utilitarian and not just lame ... you'd mention it too. :D lol literally

SteveH
11-16-2013, 06:55 AM
Sweet pics and story. Glad it's coming together. Hope your back does as well!

subzali
11-16-2013, 07:00 AM
Good work Mike and Mike!

Rzeppa
11-18-2013, 11:40 AM
that ^ represents a marginally useful set of l3,4,and 5 vertebrae now...

Whilst it isn't quite like driving a sofa, what I like to do is toss a pallet into the bed of my FJ45 and then drop the engine onto the pallet with the cherry picker. The machine shop normally has a fork lift to take the palletized motor off the truck bed and put it back when they're done.

Seems to work okay and doesn't mess with my back...:rolleyes:

simps80
11-18-2013, 11:53 AM
Whilst it isn't quite like driving a sofa, what I like to do is toss a pallet into the bed of my FJ45 and then drop the engine onto the pallet with the cherry picker. The machine shop normally has a fork lift to take the palletized motor off the truck bed and put it back when they're done.

Seems to work okay and doesn't mess with my back...:rolleyes:

indeed

you should sell me your FJ45 or better yet, I'll trade you for the purple sofa :D

Kipper
11-19-2013, 01:36 PM
mmmmmm freshly machined head pics

rover67
11-19-2013, 02:23 PM
man, that's gonna be a SWEET motor!!!

That's awesome you guys got the Domed Pistons. Your's may be the last running motor with them in it in 50 years!

rover67
11-19-2013, 02:30 PM
Also, I just looked at the pictures again and am blown away with how nice that rig is....

It's going to love the new motor.

simps80
11-19-2013, 11:13 PM
Marco thanks, yea I am excited about the engine for sure.

so while waiting for the engine machine work 2.0 to be finished, I am keeping myself busy with other little things that need done.

my pile of stuff out of the engine compartment that needs powder coated is growing.

and I decided to give the plastic bottles, the overflow and the washer fluid reservoir a muriatic acid bath (dilluted of course and handled with care) to clean them up

they're not perfect but they turned out real nice.

here's some before

overflow:
35485

washer fluid:
35486

and after about 20 or so hours in a dilluted mixture of muriatic acid and water

35487

35488

They turned out really well.

simps80
11-19-2013, 11:20 PM
also did the front pinion which was leaking real bad.

pictures aren't necessary but I like them, plus it took me a while to find the torque spec in the manual, so its here 144 to 173 for the nut

35492

it was leaking bad.

35489

I used a touch of silicone around the outside of the seal and then a touch of grease to keep the inner spring in place while I pounded it in

35491

I have done a few seals and I can never get them in square I always wind up ruining them, so I started using various pieces of pvc as seal drivers and my success rate is increasing.. this little 2" pvc cap worked well.

35490

more to come, including the vacating of the frame of an astonishing amount of sand, it blows HARD in wyoming

hopefully my block will be done too so I can start putting the engine back together.

rover67
11-20-2013, 08:11 AM
WHOA!!!! Nice work on the bottles!!! I gotta try that one!!!

Rzeppa
11-21-2013, 04:35 PM
I have done a few seals and I can never get them in square I always wind up ruining them, so I started using various pieces of pvc as seal drivers and my success rate is increasing.. this little 2" pvc cap worked well.

I always had trouble too until I came across this little kit from HFT:

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17502.jpg

Like my parts washer, it is one of those things I wonder how I ever lived without.

simps80
11-21-2013, 06:32 PM
I bet those are easier to use than my assortment of plastic hunks!!!

simps80
11-21-2013, 09:31 PM
so I mentioned that the frame was full of crap....
it was all dry sand so I was happy to see it wasn't corroded, but it was ....

35554

....FULL of SAND....

35555

...and CRUD

so I ....

35556

...vacummed as much of it out as I could before my trusty little shop vac filter gave up and the garage......

35557


....had me hazed and confused and wheezing....

so I gave up on it until I can get another filter and get the other side cleaned out.

then its going to be cleaning the frame up, maybe spraying the inside with rust bullet or something just to make sure. I will give it a good cleaning and see what it looks like, spot checking the frame there's still good paint on it, so I'll see how it cleans up and make a decision on painting the frame.

I know vacuuming isn't tech :-)

<tech>
Then it will be ready hopefully to receive its motorvation...
still no call from the machine shop...they've got to be getting close.
</tech>

simps80
01-01-2014, 09:38 PM
got all the powdercoat back.

still have some more to go, but I should be able to make good progress with what I got back...
I was happy with Premier Powder Coating, they did a good job and paid attention to little details inclduing thread protection on each and every internal or external threaded piece


went from this ugly pile:
35827

to this:
35828

simps80
01-01-2014, 10:18 PM
couple more cause I like pictures

35829

35830

35831

The bell housing and the oil pan turned out great too, but I was pushing my luck with the kitchen counter space already so I didn't bring them in.
this was just basically to inventory it all because there were a lot of parts I took there.

Hulk
01-01-2014, 10:19 PM
Wow! You're going to have a brand new FJ40 by the time you're done.

simps80
01-01-2014, 10:31 PM
I finally got the frame prep work all done, cleaned up, power washed.
I bought some rust converter stuff from eastwood that comes in a fogger bottle. So I'll be masking off EVERYTHING then fogging the inside of the frame. It doesn't need it, but I'll do that and some touch up chassis black while everything is torn down.

Pulled the steering box to get it re-sealed/rebuilt and to get at the insane amount of grease that's built up around the gear and mount.

This rental puller from Autozone was the bee's knees, I have a couple decent pullers but I needed every bit of this one to get the arm off..
35832

I got the block back from Gunn its now ready to go.

Once I get the frame all finished up I'll start on the engine again.

making slow progress...I think the bulk of the expense is behind me now thank goodness

treerootCO
01-02-2014, 06:46 AM
Very nice!

Rezarf
01-02-2014, 08:57 AM
Wow Mike, this is looking soooo good. What prep was involved before dropping off at the powder coater? Your parts look amazing.

Just my.02 is that the expenses are still plenty moving forward! ;)

simps80
01-02-2014, 09:42 AM
Wow Mike, this is looking soooo good. What prep was involved before dropping off at the powder coater? Your parts look amazing.

Just my.02 is that the expenses are still plenty moving forward! ;)

as far as prep goes...almost none.
I tried to clean them up as best I could ... I got the big chunks off :D
I probably would have saved some coin if I had done a better job. But I called the shop before hand and asked and they said its not a big deal if they aren't in great shape.


yea the expenses ... shakes head ... the expenses ...

Kenon698
01-02-2014, 11:12 AM
Fantastic Mike. Can't wait to see it. It should be one of the best 40's around. I am envious. :thumb:

RicardoJM
01-02-2014, 11:32 AM
Wow - that is some nice looking parts. Your 40 is going to look great. :D

simps80
01-02-2014, 09:40 PM
Wow - that is some nice looking parts. Your 40 is going to look great. :D

Mine will be sad to see its sibling leave :)

Fantastic Mike. Can't wait to see it. It should be one of the best 40's around. I am envious. :thumb:

Thanks yours already is!

cbmontgo
01-03-2014, 07:51 AM
Coming along very nicely! Can't wait to see this rig done.

subzali
01-03-2014, 07:53 AM
Love it Mike! Great work!