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simps80
03-04-2012, 09:06 PM
1976 fj40 -

Treeroot, John, and I had quite an adventure yesterday. The destination was Saratoga, WY the location of a very nice unmolested 40, May 1976 build date, which is interestingly to me the same month and year my wife was born.

Maybe Mike will post up the crazy road trip pictures; lots of ice packed roads...

This is a really clean unmolested 40. The only problem is, it will be a bit of a project to get it moving under its own power. For some unknown reason the P.O. before the P.O. pulled the motor and its nowhere to be found.

I bought it from a nice guy who owned it for about a month, I'm sure he made a nice profit, I'm okay with that, it is very nice.

The deal came with among a trailer full of other things of varying usefulness, the advanced adapter to put a small block chevy in it...Not that there's necessarily anything wrong with that, but this thing is original enough that I think it best to put back in it as close to a heart as what came out of it.

So......
that's the plan, get it running with a good smog-legal 2f in as short of order as possible, piece together emissions and exhaust and drive it.

I'll post some pics and reserve some spots for future use :
27388

27389

27390

27391

simps80
03-04-2012, 09:07 PM
<place holder.

27392

27393

27394

27395

27396

simps80
03-04-2012, 09:08 PM
<place holder.
27398

treerootCO
03-04-2012, 09:14 PM
That is one purdy 40.

27400

27401

27402

27405

Jacket
03-04-2012, 09:18 PM
Yes indeed. Mine is a 5/76 as well - but I have more rust... Congrats!

simps80
03-04-2012, 09:25 PM
oh nice!
might be asking lots of questions/sneaking pictures :-)

Shark Bait
03-04-2012, 09:49 PM
Very nice! Has to have a 2F. :thumb:

subzali
03-05-2012, 07:28 AM
Nice find Mike! With that carb cooling fan, I bet it's a California emissions vehicle. What color is the emissions sticker on the hood - white with black letters or black with white letters?

Interesting that it doesn't have the EGR light like Matt's does...

RicardoJM
03-05-2012, 07:28 AM
Nice looking 40. Drop an engine and drivetrain in and get it on the road:D.

MDH33
03-05-2012, 07:31 AM
WooHoo! :thumb:

Glad someone in the club snagged that one! I saw it on CL and thought it looked like a gem.

FJBRADY
03-05-2012, 07:42 AM
Very nice!

treerootCO
03-05-2012, 07:58 AM
Nice find Mike! With that carb cooling fan, I bet it's a California emissions vehicle. What color is the emissions sticker on the hood - white with black letters or black with white letters?

Interesting that it doesn't have the EGR light like Matt's does...

The carb Mike has is stamped E41. I was trying to find out on SOR if it was Federal or Cali but the carbs look the same. Going off memory, the hood lable is black with white letters.

11/75-7/76 Federal
1/76-7/76 California
8/76-8/77 Federal

subzali
03-05-2012, 08:22 AM
Mike, that carb code doesn't make sense. Needs to have a number, then a letter, then 1 or 2 numbers. Ex: 8 L 12 (mine).

The cali carbs are certainly different for some of those model years listed than the Federal carbs. If simps can post a pic I'm sure we could identify it.

rover67
03-05-2012, 08:41 AM
that's a slick looking rig.

3FE?

nakman
03-05-2012, 08:43 AM
Very sweet, congrats! Wow where to start...

Jacket
03-05-2012, 09:00 AM
Nice find Mike! With that carb cooling fan, I bet it's a California emissions vehicle. What color is the emissions sticker on the hood - white with black letters or black with white letters?

Interesting that it doesn't have the EGR light like Matt's does...

Hmmm...and I don't have a carb fan. I guess the fan could have been added later.

simps80
03-05-2012, 09:03 AM
The 'trailer full of stuff' included a '75 missing its front axle ...
it had a 'complete' engine and 4speed etc.

We barely even looked at the '75 before driving off with the 76 on the trailer...didn't much care, other than it had a builder if we needed it. Might be able to salvage some more stuff off of it later...

It also came with a block, head, crank, pan, possibly 6 pistons and rods. Mike pulled the serial numbers off of block and head and determined the block is a 2F Nov 2, 1976 vintage and the head casting is Oct 31, 1976.

the block, and crank have been machined (but likely will need to be done again, they were left out in the weather and got a bit of rust)

so that's probably next step... block, head, crank, internals, off to machine shop, pull the 4spd and flywheel/clutch/bellhousing off the '75 for re-use and start from there.

subzali
03-05-2012, 09:43 AM
Wow, that block and head almost match my '77 perfectly! Don't happen to have a carb from that same engine do you?

SteveH
03-05-2012, 10:05 AM
Nice truck! Good idea on sticking with a 2F - that truck deserves it. Consider a later 2F from an FJ60 - might be cheaper than a rebuild, and many of those later 2Fs are totally viable even with most of 200K on them.

subzali
03-05-2012, 10:06 AM
3FE?

That's a swell idea as well...

cbmontgo
03-05-2012, 10:41 AM
Same month and year as mine. Looks like a nice find!

Romer
03-05-2012, 10:50 AM
Nice Mike

I saw that ad and was pondering it. Glad it went to a good home!

Whats the 75 look like?

Ken

wesintl
03-05-2012, 10:50 AM
Schweet 40!

Rezarf
03-05-2012, 01:13 PM
Looks awesome, I love the color! :)

let me know if you start to sell the AA parts.

Corbet
03-05-2012, 01:34 PM
3FE?

Personally that's what I would do too. Full FJ62 drivetrain.

treerootCO
03-05-2012, 06:52 PM
8 E 17

27412

simps80
03-05-2012, 07:30 PM
Looks awesome, I love the color! :)

let me know if you start to sell the AA parts.

sure will.

Nice Mike

I saw that ad and was pondering it. Glad it went to a good home!

Whats the 75 look like?

Ken

Thanks, I am glad to own it. The 75 is clapped out. Not sure about the mechanicals though, its got a 4 speed and who knows what else yet ... need to do a full inventory of everything


Personally that's what I would do too. Full FJ62 drivetrain.

I like this idea, read a good article on it, http://bushrat.hdcruisers.org/3FEconversion.pdf
but just getting it back to stock is daunting enough...

I'm excited about the whole thing though.

talk about daunting: the after looks so far off...

27415

27416

subzali
03-05-2012, 07:50 PM
yeah, well, they have an A/C compressor wedged in there too. And a power steering pump. So don't worry too much ;)

8 E 17 is 1978, May 17 build date. I see the E 17 on the top of that carb, but it's stamped in the wrong spot. It should be on that boss just to the left of the E 17.

That, however, is not a '78 carb. If it was it would have the bowl vent coming off the top. In addition, a federal '78 carb would also have the Hot Idle Compensation (HIC) box, and a California would have two vacuum ports on the top front rather than one. It looks to me to be a '75 or '76 carb, not sure if Federal or California. How many vacuum ports does it have on the side, where the idle adjustment screw is?

kurtnkegger
03-05-2012, 09:05 PM
The 8 cast on the carb identifies the hose that goes to the #8 port on the emissions control box. At least that is how things are numbered on my '77

PhatFJ
03-06-2012, 07:45 AM
Nice 40!! Depending on what you are looking to do, stock restoration or dd / trail rig, let this point you the direction with the drive train. Stock restoration is going to increase the resale value considerably but if you are looking to build the dd / trail rig then the sky is the limit on choices. Let you desire and wallet be determining factor.. If you do decide to go with the 3FE, I have one you can go through, it has about 200K on it and is a long block, compression is fair and you can have it cheep.. $400.00 no harness though. Good luck with you new project, great find!!! :thumb: :thumb:

Hulk
03-06-2012, 08:12 AM
Wow, super cool 40! Can't wait to see it back on the road. :)

simps80
03-06-2012, 02:41 PM
for later reference I'll lose this IM

27438

Old40Dog
03-06-2012, 02:51 PM
Truly a great find Mike! Good luck with the resto.

Rezarf
03-06-2012, 03:52 PM
My buddy down the street has a full 3FE setup if you ever want to take a peek... it is a slick setup and it sounds AWESOME! That and the 60 springs, SOA... its a bad little truck in general.

Drew

simps80
03-06-2012, 06:43 PM
My buddy down the street has a full 3FE setup if you ever want to take a peek... it is a slick setup and it sounds AWESOME! That and the 60 springs, SOA... its a bad little truck in general.

Drew

I think I've settled on the 2f route...stock restoration mode, the 3fe setup does seem more practical though as far as driveability concerns go....

Truly a great find Mike! Good luck with the resto.



Wow, super cool 40! Can't wait to see it back on the road. :)

Nice 40!! Depending on what you are looking to do, stock restoration or dd / trail rig, let this point you the direction with the drive train. snip..
Good luck with you new project, great find!!! :thumb: :thumb:


Thanks guys, I'm excited for the challenge

yeah, well, they have an A/C compressor wedged in there too. And a power steering pump. So don't worry too much ;)



and a motor :lmao:

thanks for the encouragement everyone. I might have a line on a complete 78 2f as the starting point, so I'm encouraged right now.

going out to the garage to make vroom vroom noises
:)

kvanoort
03-06-2012, 06:46 PM
Looks like a great cruiser to start with. Keep the pictures and progress coming.

subzali
03-06-2012, 08:11 PM
A good-running 2F is just as driveable as a 3FE, good choice :thumb:

Rezarf
03-07-2012, 02:25 PM
A good-running 2F is just as driveable as a 3FE, good choice :thumb:

You should come ride in my buddies Matt, no denying there is mo' power and smoother acceleration in the 3FE...

Now if I left the 2f it will only to gain gobs of horse power. :thumb:

simps80
03-11-2012, 06:59 PM
Worked on a couple little things today.

Drug it over to the local spray-n-wash to get all the grime off from the trip home. The wife drove the 80 towing the 40...so proud :Princess: :thumb:

ran into Christo there in his self-powered BMW very :cool: car.

anyway here's a clean one as she sits in the corner

27515

the other thing was the rear ambi doors didn't open/shut correctly, the passenger side just needed some lubing the driver side needed the rod to the bottom adjusted. Had to use a screw driver to get it open, now they both function as they should

I love Toyota's engineering, the rod is cam'd with a nut and bolt so easy

27516

Anyway; hope to get the engine thing squared away soon.

so tempting to go full blown OCD with this thing and start taking it all apart and powder coating everything and painting bolts and craziness... don't want to do that; want to get it going and drive it.

simps80
03-11-2012, 09:05 PM
Nice find Mike! With that carb cooling fan, I bet it's a California emissions vehicle. What color is the emissions sticker on the hood - white with black letters or black with white letters?

Interesting that it doesn't have the EGR light like Matt's does...

black w/ white letters you were absolutely right, CA emissions vehicle.

27527

good news is according to this:
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=16771&highlight=1976+emissions+egr+air+rail&page=2

begin quote excerpt:
"
Update:
In case anyone is interested, I called the emissions ref and was informed if you live in the enhanced emissions area I could pass my 1977 fj40 2f with header and no EGR as long as I installed the air injection system.
So I promptly spent the next couple of hours installing the AI system and went to the Air Care Colorado and passed. Still runs good. I can't tell much of a difference.
Hopefully you wont hear any more of my whining about emissions
"
end quote excerpt

I only need an air pump and air rail.

right ?

MDH33
03-12-2012, 07:32 AM
so tempting to go full blown OCD with this thing and start taking it all apart and powder coating everything and painting bolts and craziness... don't want to do that; want to get it going and drive it.

It's such a clean rig, I can understand what you mean.



I only need an air pump and air rail.

right ?

I believe so. I think I have both for a '77 2F if you need them. At a minimum, I would try to get it to pass without all the other stuff first before you go through the hassle of trying to re-smog it.

treerootCO
03-12-2012, 07:39 AM
...I think I have both for a '77 2F if you need them. At a minimum, I would try to get it to pass without all the other stuff first before you go through the hassle of trying to re-smog it.

1976 missed the Ritter cutoff for collectors plates by one year :( Because of that, he needs to pass emissions every two years. I am hoping the 76 doesn't need an EGR but I would put the catalytic converter, smog pump, air rails, and the VSV stuff on it.

MDH33
03-12-2012, 07:50 AM
1976 missed the Ritter cutoff for collectors plates by one year :( Because of that, he needs to pass emissions every two years. I am hoping the 76 doesn't need an EGR but I would put the catalytic converter, smog pump, air rails, and the VSV stuff on it.

Does it already have a catalytic convertor on it? If so, the other stuff will be easy. Also, based on that other thread about the '77 with headers, it sounded like they passed with just the air rail and pump. :)

I'm bummed about the collector plates too. My '80 hilux needs to pass every two years also.

wesintl
03-12-2012, 08:05 AM
76 didn't have a cat. doesn't mean you can't run one to be cleaner.

I bet you would be fine with an air rail and pump.

Jacket
03-12-2012, 09:08 AM
Yea - not cats on the '76. Mine passed 5 years ago with a functional EGR and no air pump, but it required carb and timing adjustments (that I can't remember the details on any more....).

subzali
03-12-2012, 09:40 AM
I wouldn't take it apart. Clean it up and enjoy driving it. Seen too many rigs get taken apart and then never get put back together again.

MDH33
03-12-2012, 10:00 AM
I wouldn't take it apart. Clean it up and enjoy driving it. Seen too many rigs get taken apart and then never get put back together again.

Agree 100%. Let us know when you're going to drop in the 2F. I would be happy to lend a hand. You're going to love having it on the road/trail. :thumb:

treerootCO
03-12-2012, 10:23 AM
Does it already have a catalytic convertor on it?...

76 didn't have a cat. doesn't mean you can't run one to be cleaner.

I bet you would be fine with an air rail and pump.

Yea - not cats on the '76....

I was thinking '76 was the first year based off of the 6,000 GVW and higher specs that dd not require them in '76. Looks like Toyota ran them from 1/79-1984. Cool, so no cats :)

1/75-12/78 FJ40
27528

Exhaust manifold flange (http://forum.ih8mud.com/metric-tlc/366158-new-2f-3f-manifold-down-pipe-flange.html)

Rzeppa
03-20-2012, 02:37 PM
Sweet! Nice find!

My Kalifornia 1976 came with EGR, but I am told that federal didn't get them until 1978. The head dude at Colorado AIR who tested my 1978 FJ45 told me flat out that we don't need EGR up here on the old iron because combustion temps don't get high enough to make much NxOx. You do need the smog pump though. It doesn't need to work, just look like it's working. I had mine mounted but disconnected for about 15 years and she always passed every year. Just before the test I would throw the belt on, then take it back off after it passed.

subzali
03-20-2012, 02:50 PM
Sweet! Nice find!

My Kalifornia 1976 came with EGR, but I am told that federal didn't get them until 1978. The head dude at Colorado AIR who tested my 1978 FJ45 told me flat out that we don't need EGR up here on the old iron because combustion temps don't get high enough to make much NxOx. You do need the smog pump though. It doesn't need to work, just look like it's working. I had mine mounted but disconnected for about 15 years and she always passed every year. Just before the test I would throw the belt on, then take it back off after it passed.

According to SOR, California EGR started in 9/'73 ('74 model year), and Federal EGR started in 1/75 (late '75 model year?). My Federal '77 has it...

simps80
04-23-2013, 10:32 PM
so...been staring at it for a year now, accumulating ...stuff...

found a complete 2f with a March of 76 production date, (serial number 080859), fits nicely with the May of 76 vehicle date.

Here it is:

32734

it was a bit rusty. it was cheap.
the guy said it has been sitting in his garage since the mid 80s.

so I took a chance on it...
put a spare hook on the rear to lift it so I could mount it on the stand...

finally found the right orientation of the plate and arms for the stand to fit nice and square and centered without hitting rear main housing etc.

its 12x1.75x80 times 4 plus 4 12mm flat washers per, between block and stands...

32737

as rusty as it was, I was worried it would be seized, but it cranked over perfectly with very very little pressure on the front nut so I was encouraged.

I was planning on pulling the head to have it gone through, then investigate what the inside looks like while the head was off....

I fought a lot of bolts removing all of the externals so I was a bit concerned what the inside will look like, but it turned over so nicely and the exhaust ports were puffing nicely.

I was more concerned when I pulled the valve cover .....

simps80
04-23-2013, 10:40 PM
I was even more concerned when it took a 36" cheater bar and a can of pb blaster to get the head bolt by #3 exhaust out...

but it eventually came out.

as it sits now I'm ready to take the head off everythings removed and ready to go, but the head has told me its not ready to come off yet.

I can literally lift the whole engine connected to the stand by the head with nothing mechanical attaching it to the block...!!! :D

we'll see, its soaking again tonight, i'll give her another shot tomorrow or thursday.

I would love to use this engine because its from a CA emissions 76 like the cruiser is, but if its not usable its not usable. I just have to think it is based on how easy it turns over....

we'll see.

subzali
04-24-2013, 08:16 AM
It's not uncommon for heads to be difficult to remove. There are little slots on the side you can put a large screwdriver or pry bar and pry up or whack with a mallet. Hopefully you'll be golden after a head rebuild if the engine turns over smoothly.

It's also recommended to chase the head bolt threads in the block before reassembly. I'm sure you're already getting good help with this project though :thumb:

simps80
04-24-2013, 08:33 AM
It's not uncommon for heads to be difficult to remove. There are little slots on the side you can put a large screwdriver or pry bar and pry up or whack with a mallet. Hopefully you'll be golden after a head rebuild if the engine turns over smoothly.

It's also recommended to chase the head bolt threads in the block before reassembly. I'm sure you're already getting good help with this project though :thumb:

before I lifted the engine by the head with all the bolts out (wow) I whacked it to death and used the side slot to pry extensively, but I haven't given up yet.
:)

DaveInDenver
04-24-2013, 08:41 AM
It's also recommended to chase the head bolt threads in the block before reassembly. I'm sure you're already getting good help with this project though :thumb:
It was mentioned to me and probably worth parroting, when you chase the head bolt threads use a thread chase, either a manufactured one or something you make, and not a tap. You don't want to remove any material you don't have to, especially from good threads.

I ended up making my own since all the tooling I had long enough were bottoming taps. I used a long 10.9 bolt, cut 3 slots along the length with a die grinder and ran it through a die to clean its threads. My 22R short block was factory new but I got a few small pieces of debris, although nothing more than dirt and paint.

Caribou Sandstorm
04-24-2013, 10:03 AM
Wow, great thread, great find!!

simps80
04-24-2013, 11:39 PM
Wow, great thread, great find!!

Thanks!

so I made some progress...after soaking over night with 2 cans of pb blaster and more lifting by the head and dead blows etc the head came off.
there was an astonishing amount of rust chunks and carbon chunks that I assume was just gluing it down.

I spent a good 3 hours cleaning it, taped off the hols, left the head bolts in :blah:
and this is where it stands with a crappy cell phone pic cause I broke the lcd on the nikon (14 dollars for new lcd on ebay...i love ebay...but I digress)

32749

simps80
04-24-2013, 11:56 PM
I do have a problem that I would like input on though.

the pistons are all stamped ra2648 .075 then 0.04 UD

.075 converts from MM to .0295 inches so I'm assuming this is .30 over...searching on mud reveals that's true:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/176742-repco-piston-part-number-info.html

but I can't figure out 0.04 UD.

I care because number 3 has a gouge the radius of which matches the intake valve:

32750

so...I wonder if these are .04 "under height" to allow for block and head decking.

I would assume so, which then makes me ask why #3 got smacked..

so do you concur this is the valve contacting the piston? I think that's the only logical explanation for this shape and location, I should have taken a picture with the camera orientated square so the location of the mark was more clear, but it lines up with the intake valve.

for it to be one valve to piston, my likely flawed logic rules out too much milling of the head or block or other causes like timing that should affect more than one hole.

so ... floated valves and one kissed the piston?

its not deep, can catch your finger nail on it just barely is all ...
the cylinder walls are pure,
I think I'll continue with original plan and have the head reworked, I'll check the block for warpage, then turn it over and look at the bottom end before deciding on anything for certain especially since its already been rebuilt at least once it would appear.

thoughts on that approach?

60wag
04-25-2013, 06:02 AM
Doesn't the notch in the piston point to the front of the truck? If so, the nick in the piston looks too close to the centerline of the pistion to be the edge of the valve, (or you have some really small valves.)

Does the head or block have any numbers stamped on them? The shop that decked my 2F head stamped an "050" on it to indicate to future generations that it had been shaved 0.050".

treerootCO
04-25-2013, 06:19 AM
The internet says the pistons are made by Rebco and or ACL. The "RA" means it is a set of pistons (rings not included).

http://www.acl.com.au/

Piston:
RA2648 = piston only (was probably ordered as part of a rebuild kit)
6KRY2648 = KRY (contains Plain rings)
6MKRY2648 = MKRY (contains Premium rings - Moly or Chrome)

TOP UD ???
TOP YD ???
TOP YC ???
TOP YK ???
TOP CF ??? - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-2F-Motor-Pistons-/321097303887?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4ac2e4074f&nma=true&si=cawT9I99NfMWNhsMLFBGut1ABkM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


Still working on the UD marking...

http://www.mitsubishilinks.com/fsm/acl_pistonproducts_pp99.pdf
Page 199

This was the kit that included RA pistons:

http://www.acl.com.au/web/aclwebsite.nsf/8429d5ffb75b23264a2569980025aac6/b5f1bac53d38e394ca256afc007c9674/$FILE/FitBuild.pdf

page 9

I like finding similarities on the web. This guy has the same question as you with the same conclusion even though his is marked with YC instead of UD...

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/176742-repco-piston-part-number-info.html

simps80
04-25-2013, 08:21 AM
I do have a problem that I would like input on though.

the pistons are all stamped ra2648 .075 then 0.04 UD

.075 converts from MM to .0295 inches so I'm assuming this is .30 over...searching on mud reveals that's true:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/176742-repco-piston-part-number-info.html

but I can't figure out 0.04 UD.

<snip>




<snip>

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/176742-repco-piston-part-number-info.html


yep :thumb:

Air Randy
04-25-2013, 08:25 AM
The valve head could have detached from the stem too. For me, if I have an engine on the stand, I'm going to at least disassemble the bottom end and check everything out. You had enough rust in that motor I would check the rod and main bearing journals and drop in new bearings, they're cheap. Replace the rear main seal at the same time. Check the oil pump to make sure the clearances are good and there is no rust or chunks in it. Check the play and thrust on the timing gears, etc. Super easy to do at this stage. Its not much more of a step to pop the pistons, hone the cylinders and put in new rings too. For very little money you then have a known good motor versus just hoping everything is OK.

Dont assume just because it turns over easy that everything is OK, who knows why it was pulled out originally?

simps80
04-25-2013, 08:26 AM
Doesn't the notch in the piston point to the front of the truck? If so, the nick in the piston looks too close to the centerline of the pistion to be the edge of the valve, (or you have some really small valves.)

Does the head or block have any numbers stamped on them? The shop that decked my 2F head stamped an "050" on it to indicate to future generations that it had been shaved 0.050".

I'll look for any markings on block and head,

yes the notch does point to the front, the first picture you can kind of see how close the mark is to the center line

when I get the nikon fixed I can post better pictures too.

simps80
04-25-2013, 08:28 AM
The valve head could have detached from the stem too. For me, if I have an engine on the stand, I'm going to at least disassemble the bottom end and check everything out. You had enough rust in that motor I would check the rod and main bearing journals and drop in new bearings, they're cheap. Replace the rear main seal at the same time. Check the oil pump to make sure the clearances are good and there is no rust or chunks in it. Check the play and thrust on the timing gears, etc. Super easy to do at this stage. Its not much more of a step to pop the pistons, hone the cylinders and put in new rings too. For very little money you then have a known good motor versus just hoping everything is OK.

Dont assume just because it turns over easy that everything is OK, who knows why it was pulled out originally?

noted, thanks for that.

the guy pulled it to put a v8 in he said. but he also said that was the mid 80s so I think you're right, its probably best to take the next step.

simps80
09-09-2013, 04:44 PM
update...
so its been a while ...again.

latest:
I took the engine apart, took it down to gunn had them go through it and machine everything.
started putting it together, Mike stops by: "I think flat top pistons with this head is not right"

he's right. I wish I had caught that before paying all that $ for the head work....

I have open chamber head with flat top pistons ... probably why the guy pulled it to begin with, ran like crap, like 6.5 to 1 or something.
oh well, I learned stuff.

biggest problem is there are no oversized domed pistons, NLA except for std
So...I have 3 options:
1. buy custom pistons ($700 to $1200 depending on source)
2. mill the crap (.100) out of the open chamber head to get compression up w/ flat tops
3. source a later 2f head with closed chamber

I am going with number 3....hopefully...

http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?p=238836#post238836

while I waited on gunn, I rebuilt my carb, pretty fun project, ricardo's thread was a big help thanks Ricardo! I had the 2f manual, his thread, a camera, a pad and pencil and patience.

before:
34519

during:
34520

after:
34521

Rzeppa
09-09-2013, 06:14 PM
Check with Bill at Mile High Performance, he seems to be able to source unobtainium parts for Land Cruiser engines. Another option is to sleeve the cylinders so they can accept stock sized pistons. Gunn should have known better though!

BTW, I know of a few people who have used F heads on 2F blocks to get better compression. The only gotcha is having to oil the rockers, which is just some extra work. If you want to go that route I have a good F head you can have for free.

SteveH
09-10-2013, 08:29 AM
If you want a 2F head, post the casting number you want. I have one in my garage you can have, as well as a later 1F head with air-injection fittings. Both would need some work, but both are free if you need them.

simps80
09-10-2013, 01:29 PM
Check with Bill at Mile High Performance, he seems to be able to source unobtainium parts for Land Cruiser engines. Another option is to sleeve the cylinders so they can accept stock sized pistons. Gunn should have known better though!

BTW, I know of a few people who have used F heads on 2F blocks to get better compression. The only gotcha is having to oil the rockers, which is just some extra work. If you want to go that route I have a good F head you can have for free.

Thanks Jeff for the offer i'll let you know on that, Bill at mtn high presumably couldn't find any since he never called me back.


If you want a 2F head, post the casting number you want. I have one in my garage you can have, as well as a later 1F head with air-injection fittings. Both would need some work, but both are free if you need them.


Steve, thanks, I think its 61040 for post 81 2f closed chambered head.

jps8460
09-10-2013, 01:30 PM
I checked with epwi and itm units in all sizes except std have been on back order since march. And they don't think they are coming in anytime soon. My source for sealed power units said check eBay and parts stores sometimes you can find them sitting in a warehouse.

I think your best bet is to find another head. I think your valves and springs will interchange. So you'll just be in for guides seats seals and machine work.

Bummer man good luck!

simps80
09-10-2013, 09:45 PM
I checked with epwi and itm units in all sizes except std have been on back order since march. And they don't think they are coming in anytime soon. My source for sealed power units said check eBay and parts stores sometimes you can find them sitting in a warehouse.

I think your best bet is to find another head. I think your valves and springs will interchange. So you'll just be in for guides seats seals and machine work.

Bummer man good luck!

Hey thanks for checking anyways..appreciate it...I pretty much gave up the hunt for pistons..it was a fun hunt though..

PabloCruise
10-22-2013, 04:03 PM
Another option is to sleeve the cylinders so they can accept stock sized pistons...


Sounds this fate may await all us "domers" unless another batch of domed pistons in various oversize options materializes...

:(

simps80
11-15-2013, 11:31 PM
:) <---that's me now

ok the questions of what to do are answered.

For a brief summary of the goings on....:
-1975 to 1980 2f's came with domed pistons
-those match with 6103x heads that are open chambered
-you can't find domed pistons anymore..like anywhere, it seems.
-that means you're screwed unless you find a 6104x head which are used on later 2f's and you use the later flat top pistons that are still available, or you get really really lucky and find a set of domed pistons that someone had sitting around.

.....
so long story long, after 2 complete engines and lots of weirdness...
I brought all the newly machine parts back from Gunn using combinations of two motors, enough I thought to put back together a nice rebuilt fully machined 2f for my project from Gunn only to realize the pistons I was planning to use were the flat tops and not suitable for the 61030 head I had rebuilt.

I found a 61040 head from SteveH on the forum and dropped that off to be rebuilt and still haven't heard back from them on whether or not it can be rebuilt or not

in the meantine (over the past 4 months) Mike D's ebay skills are awesome....he found what amounts to a brand new set of domed 2f pistons RY6215-040 (1.00mm or .040" oversized) over two separate auctions...I've been watching for these and calling around for months, and he found them...

so for posterity's sake, and because I like pictures, here's some pics of all this domed and open chamber business that I wish had been pictured somewhere else when I started this....

man these look good!
35442
35443

these will match much mo better with the 61030 :
35444
35445

simps80
11-15-2013, 11:40 PM
now anyone still paying close attention will note that these are 1.00mm (.040") oversized domed ry6215-040 pistons and I've been blathering on and on about .030" or .75mm oversized bores and flat tops....

...hold please for a brief interlude to show another picture with questionable archival significance....



35446


so yes, that means one more trip down to ol' Gunn to do ^ that again..but only the part about boring the block to .040 from .030 to use the shiny new slugs.

and just because I enjoy ridiculous-pictures-I-usually-find-on-the-internet-but-this-one-was-shot-from-my-driveway-yes-i-am-that-dumb....

I didn't do it this way again:

35447

that ^ represents a marginally useful set of l3,4,and 5 vertebrae now.....no one ever accused me of above average intelligence. But hey, my wife got a new car and left me with this purple sienna I thought it would be better if, because its purple and its a mini-van, it at least smelled like oil ... I was wrong..but dang that thing is nice to drive with a busted up lower back, its like driving a sofa.

simps80
11-15-2013, 11:45 PM
So that's my trip around the past 4 or so months ...

:beer::beer::beer:

yes that's 3 cheers to Mike D for finding useful and nearly impossible to find pistons and for not letting me use my sweet dream purple mini-van this time to haul crap. if you have ever heard me mention the sienna during introductions at RS meetings and wondered who is this goofball and why is he talking about his van......
if you broke your back right after inheriting that bad-bad-man-mobile trying to prove its utilitarian and not just lame ... you'd mention it too. :D lol literally

SteveH
11-16-2013, 06:55 AM
Sweet pics and story. Glad it's coming together. Hope your back does as well!

subzali
11-16-2013, 07:00 AM
Good work Mike and Mike!

Rzeppa
11-18-2013, 11:40 AM
that ^ represents a marginally useful set of l3,4,and 5 vertebrae now...

Whilst it isn't quite like driving a sofa, what I like to do is toss a pallet into the bed of my FJ45 and then drop the engine onto the pallet with the cherry picker. The machine shop normally has a fork lift to take the palletized motor off the truck bed and put it back when they're done.

Seems to work okay and doesn't mess with my back...:rolleyes:

simps80
11-18-2013, 11:53 AM
Whilst it isn't quite like driving a sofa, what I like to do is toss a pallet into the bed of my FJ45 and then drop the engine onto the pallet with the cherry picker. The machine shop normally has a fork lift to take the palletized motor off the truck bed and put it back when they're done.

Seems to work okay and doesn't mess with my back...:rolleyes:

indeed

you should sell me your FJ45 or better yet, I'll trade you for the purple sofa :D

Kipper
11-19-2013, 01:36 PM
mmmmmm freshly machined head pics

rover67
11-19-2013, 02:23 PM
man, that's gonna be a SWEET motor!!!

That's awesome you guys got the Domed Pistons. Your's may be the last running motor with them in it in 50 years!

rover67
11-19-2013, 02:30 PM
Also, I just looked at the pictures again and am blown away with how nice that rig is....

It's going to love the new motor.

simps80
11-19-2013, 11:13 PM
Marco thanks, yea I am excited about the engine for sure.

so while waiting for the engine machine work 2.0 to be finished, I am keeping myself busy with other little things that need done.

my pile of stuff out of the engine compartment that needs powder coated is growing.

and I decided to give the plastic bottles, the overflow and the washer fluid reservoir a muriatic acid bath (dilluted of course and handled with care) to clean them up

they're not perfect but they turned out real nice.

here's some before

overflow:
35485

washer fluid:
35486

and after about 20 or so hours in a dilluted mixture of muriatic acid and water

35487

35488

They turned out really well.

simps80
11-19-2013, 11:20 PM
also did the front pinion which was leaking real bad.

pictures aren't necessary but I like them, plus it took me a while to find the torque spec in the manual, so its here 144 to 173 for the nut

35492

it was leaking bad.

35489

I used a touch of silicone around the outside of the seal and then a touch of grease to keep the inner spring in place while I pounded it in

35491

I have done a few seals and I can never get them in square I always wind up ruining them, so I started using various pieces of pvc as seal drivers and my success rate is increasing.. this little 2" pvc cap worked well.

35490

more to come, including the vacating of the frame of an astonishing amount of sand, it blows HARD in wyoming

hopefully my block will be done too so I can start putting the engine back together.

rover67
11-20-2013, 08:11 AM
WHOA!!!! Nice work on the bottles!!! I gotta try that one!!!

Rzeppa
11-21-2013, 04:35 PM
I have done a few seals and I can never get them in square I always wind up ruining them, so I started using various pieces of pvc as seal drivers and my success rate is increasing.. this little 2" pvc cap worked well.

I always had trouble too until I came across this little kit from HFT:

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17502.jpg

Like my parts washer, it is one of those things I wonder how I ever lived without.

simps80
11-21-2013, 06:32 PM
I bet those are easier to use than my assortment of plastic hunks!!!

simps80
11-21-2013, 09:31 PM
so I mentioned that the frame was full of crap....
it was all dry sand so I was happy to see it wasn't corroded, but it was ....

35554

....FULL of SAND....

35555

...and CRUD

so I ....

35556

...vacummed as much of it out as I could before my trusty little shop vac filter gave up and the garage......

35557


....had me hazed and confused and wheezing....

so I gave up on it until I can get another filter and get the other side cleaned out.

then its going to be cleaning the frame up, maybe spraying the inside with rust bullet or something just to make sure. I will give it a good cleaning and see what it looks like, spot checking the frame there's still good paint on it, so I'll see how it cleans up and make a decision on painting the frame.

I know vacuuming isn't tech :-)

<tech>
Then it will be ready hopefully to receive its motorvation...
still no call from the machine shop...they've got to be getting close.
</tech>

simps80
01-01-2014, 09:38 PM
got all the powdercoat back.

still have some more to go, but I should be able to make good progress with what I got back...
I was happy with Premier Powder Coating, they did a good job and paid attention to little details inclduing thread protection on each and every internal or external threaded piece


went from this ugly pile:
35827

to this:
35828

simps80
01-01-2014, 10:18 PM
couple more cause I like pictures

35829

35830

35831

The bell housing and the oil pan turned out great too, but I was pushing my luck with the kitchen counter space already so I didn't bring them in.
this was just basically to inventory it all because there were a lot of parts I took there.

Hulk
01-01-2014, 10:19 PM
Wow! You're going to have a brand new FJ40 by the time you're done.

simps80
01-01-2014, 10:31 PM
I finally got the frame prep work all done, cleaned up, power washed.
I bought some rust converter stuff from eastwood that comes in a fogger bottle. So I'll be masking off EVERYTHING then fogging the inside of the frame. It doesn't need it, but I'll do that and some touch up chassis black while everything is torn down.

Pulled the steering box to get it re-sealed/rebuilt and to get at the insane amount of grease that's built up around the gear and mount.

This rental puller from Autozone was the bee's knees, I have a couple decent pullers but I needed every bit of this one to get the arm off..
35832

I got the block back from Gunn its now ready to go.

Once I get the frame all finished up I'll start on the engine again.

making slow progress...I think the bulk of the expense is behind me now thank goodness

treerootCO
01-02-2014, 06:46 AM
Very nice!

Rezarf
01-02-2014, 08:57 AM
Wow Mike, this is looking soooo good. What prep was involved before dropping off at the powder coater? Your parts look amazing.

Just my.02 is that the expenses are still plenty moving forward! ;)

simps80
01-02-2014, 09:42 AM
Wow Mike, this is looking soooo good. What prep was involved before dropping off at the powder coater? Your parts look amazing.

Just my.02 is that the expenses are still plenty moving forward! ;)

as far as prep goes...almost none.
I tried to clean them up as best I could ... I got the big chunks off :D
I probably would have saved some coin if I had done a better job. But I called the shop before hand and asked and they said its not a big deal if they aren't in great shape.


yea the expenses ... shakes head ... the expenses ...

Kenon698
01-02-2014, 11:12 AM
Fantastic Mike. Can't wait to see it. It should be one of the best 40's around. I am envious. :thumb:

RicardoJM
01-02-2014, 11:32 AM
Wow - that is some nice looking parts. Your 40 is going to look great. :D

simps80
01-02-2014, 09:40 PM
Wow - that is some nice looking parts. Your 40 is going to look great. :D

Mine will be sad to see its sibling leave :)

Fantastic Mike. Can't wait to see it. It should be one of the best 40's around. I am envious. :thumb:

Thanks yours already is!

cbmontgo
01-03-2014, 07:51 AM
Coming along very nicely! Can't wait to see this rig done.

subzali
01-03-2014, 07:53 AM
Love it Mike! Great work!

simps80
05-04-2014, 05:18 PM
i can't even remember all the iterations...

but I started final assembly of the engine today finally.

I got the chassis cleaned up good enough so that its relatively close to ready for the engine.

the engine's been sitting in the corner since final re-machining...

so I figured it needed a good washing. it did.

bought a set of these moroso brushes, there was a good variety of sizes and shapes. 12 brushes total pretty cheap from summit, enough variety to have one for every size orifice on the block.

36898

I used warm water and simple green. Then brushed out every hole.
I used some micro fiber towels to wipe it down as I went, they didn't shred up and leave bits behind like the other rags or towels.

I knew it needed cleaning, but didn't realize how bad.
This was the 3rd go around and the water was still very dirty:

36899

Once it was sufficiently clean, I sprayed it down with fresh water, then used compressed air to dry it out..every hole..again ...

once that was done, I used a thin coat of wd40 to prevent flash rust...
I wasn't sure how far I'd get.

ahh cleanness

simps80
05-04-2014, 05:26 PM
once I was satisfied with that,
I put the block half of the bearings in, lubed them up with a lot of lucas assembly lube

36901

I then carefully set the crank in..this junk's heavy

36902

I used the green plastigage (good from .001 to .003 inch) to measure clearance.

the 2f manual calls for No 1, 2, and 3 caps torqued from 90 to 108 and no. 4 torqued from 76 to 94 ft lb.

I split the difference on those two numbers, then pulled the caps and measured the plasticgage.

measurements:
#1 .0015"
#2 .001"
#3 .0015"
#4 .0025

the manual calls for (in inches) .0008-.0017" or .020-.044 mm

I'm worried that #4 is too far out ... but from reading I guess this is bearing manufacturer dependent ...
thoughts?

after that I cleaned up the main journals, and bearings of the plasticgage and reassembled with lucas assembly lube then and re-torqued.

I stayed in the middle of the road, but on #4 I torqued down to 90 ft-lb (still well within the range, but tighter than the plastigage round.

so here's how it sits ready to roll back into the corner for hopefully not that long.
I shrink wrapped the whole thing so I don't have to keep cleaning junk if it sits too long in my dust bowl garage.

36903

simps80
05-04-2014, 05:35 PM
I also had about 2 boxes of cad plating done...

the stuff turned out pretty nice, too expensive won't be doing any more of that.

36904

so opinions on that #4 bearing question above are welcome.

simps80
05-04-2014, 05:54 PM
I also pulled the gear as previously mentioned,
then re-sealed the input and output with c-dan toyota oem seals.
surprised how much nicer the oem parts were than these leaking non-oem seals I pulled out of the box.

there's no slop in it so I just re-sealed it.

here's a picture just cause
36906

its all cleaned and painted up now back on the car

MDH33
05-04-2014, 06:49 PM
you're doing that old 40 justice. :thumb::wrench:

RicardoJM
05-05-2014, 07:02 AM
The engine block is nice and clean and the plated parts look great. :thumb:

...I'm worried that #4 is too far out ... but from reading I guess this is bearing manufacturer dependent ...
thoughts?
...

The difference on #4 would worry me - well at least I would want to really understand why it is out of spec. To my thinking, the large width would indicate the clearance is smaller and would restrict the amount of oil flow. Can/did you recheck at a few other (like each 90 degrees) places on the rotation of the crank? With the mains all in and torqued, how does the crank turn? It if is not smooth, now would be the best time to figure it out, DAMHIK:D.

simps80
05-05-2014, 12:54 PM
Thanks Ricardo,
I'll try it at every 90 degree like you suggested.

I also didn't test it at the higher torque of 90 ft lb

simps80
05-05-2014, 01:43 PM
I called Gunn too

toyota says .0008 to .0017

clevite says .0009 to .0044

so my .0025 is well within clevite's range but not within toyota's range ...

hmmm

:confused:

wesintl
05-05-2014, 02:05 PM
you should be fine, it's a 2f after all...

RicardoJM
05-05-2014, 03:40 PM
I called Gunn too

toyota says .0008 to .0017

clevite says .0009 to .0044

so my .0025 is well within clevite's range but not within toyota's range ...

hmmm

:confused:

Interesting, I assume you have clevite bearings. As the measurement is within their spec., I would be comfortable proceeding. That said, I would also confirm the crank rotates smoothly with no binding/skips. :thumb:

I know the F engine series employed shims for the mains and recall Jeff Zepp used them to get his main bearing clearances in spec when he was rebuilding the engine that is in Charlotte. I don't believe the shims were used on the 2F. If you really want to hit the spec, perhaps you could source a couple of F shims for the #4 cap and BAM be right in Toyota spec. :D

simps80
05-05-2014, 07:53 PM
ok I took # 4 off cleaned it up real good, found a couple little specs underneath the cap bearing

torqued it to 86 and had my girls who have much better eyes vote

its .0020 not .0025

36932

also re-orientated the engine stand so the the tube is more centered, so now the rear of the crank is not blocked by the mount...
this allowed me to put the main seal in after letting go of my ocd about #4

36933

now onto pistons, bought some 3/8" fuel line to cover the rod bolts

off to measure ring gap

simps80
05-05-2014, 11:50 PM
pistons are in

rod bearing clearances were all good just larger than the .051 mm plastigage marking

36934

this looks nice

36935

i was glad to make that progress..my "free time" is non-existent now a days
so its important to make progress when I can.

now shrink wrap time .. its likely another week before I have any time to work on it again

Rzeppa
05-06-2014, 11:31 AM
Nice work Mike! Only just now seeing this latest stuff, busy with Moab stuff for some reason.

Anyhoo, here are some things to consider: You ALWAYs want the rear main a little looser (more clearance) than 1, 2 and 3 because it has a larger surface area. Like wise, you torque the bolts down less because they're smaller and there's 4 of them. Your 0.0020" should be just fine.

In the real world, your rod bearings are more critical (bolt torque and oil clearance) - they're always the ones to let loose when anything lets loose.

Finally, 2Fs DO NOT use shims, F motors do. When you add a shim, you increase the clearance. We had to add shims when we were assembling the F for my 71 because it was way too tight without any shims and you couldn't even turn the crank.

simps80
05-06-2014, 12:16 PM
Nice work Mike! Only just now seeing this latest stuff, busy with Moab stuff for some reason.

Anyhoo, here are some things to consider: You ALWAYs want the rear main a little looser (more clearance) than 1, 2 and 3 because it has a larger surface area. Like wise, you torque the bolts down less because they're smaller and there's 4 of them. Your 0.0020" should be just fine.

In the real world, your rod bearings are more critical (bolt torque and oil clearance) - they're always the ones to let loose when anything lets loose.

Finally, 2Fs DO NOT use shims, F motors do. When you add a shim, you increase the clearance. We had to add shims when we were assembling the F for my 71 because it was way too tight without any shims and you couldn't even turn the crank.


so the rod torque spec is 35 to 55 ft lbs according to the 2f manual... why so large a range?
I picked 45 right in the middle ...
anything wrong with that?

Rzeppa
05-06-2014, 06:34 PM
so the rod torque spec is 35 to 55 ft lbs according to the 2f manual... why so large a range?
I picked 45 right in the middle ...
anything wrong with that?

I never noticed that before, but I do the same, middle of range.

simps80
05-16-2014, 11:03 PM
...got a little bit of time in the garage

got the front end plate (or crank case plate) or whatever other name put on.

used a little permatex sealer on both sides of the OEM gasket. I wouldn't have except the 2f manual actually called for it...

also used the later style tapered torx screws instead of the slotted screws. (torx screw part number 90149-10001)

some 2f's from reading seem to have shorter screws such that the newer torx screws are longer than the original slotted screws. Not the case here, the torx and originals were the same exact length.

"staked" them down in a manner that I think is good.

37175

I then lubed up the cam real good and sloppy then stabbed it with #6 at TDC, which was the most convenient to line up the timing marks (teq logo on OEM crank) and the dot on the new Melling Camshaft.

I staked the oil squirter in two places once I had the hole was straight down at the two gears

37176

Hope to get some more time Saturday at some point to get some more progress done.

Oh btw another lesson learned: when the powder coater coats the inside of the timing cover seal surface ... don't try to pound a seal in there...that little bit of powder coat is enough to not be able to get the front seal in without ruining it. I sanded out the powder on the inside seal surface, waiting on another crank seal now.

Rzeppa
05-17-2014, 11:48 AM
waiting on another crank seal now. I have several spares in the garage if you don't want to wait.

simps80
05-18-2014, 12:10 PM
I have several spares in the garage if you don't want to wait.

thanks Jeff,
won't need it, no time in the garage this weekend may ping you this week

simps80
05-20-2014, 12:44 PM
the block i'm using is a 78 block

I have both styles of pumps, integrated pickup and the basket style pickup separate from the pump....

6/76 the pumps and pans changed part numbers...

so what I don't know is if the pan below is the later style pan or the earlier style pan ????.

I prefer to use the new style pump cause I have a new one but I don't want to use the 'wrong' pump for 'this' pan..

so is this the "right" pan for the newer style pump? I've searched extensively and can't find a good picture of new style and old style pumps to pan

'old' and 'new' style pumps:
37380

'old' style pickup
37382

the pan
37381

RicardoJM
05-20-2014, 12:54 PM
Mike, I don't know the answer with certainty, but recall baffle interferance is the issue that would occur with a mismatch. Did you install the new style pump and encounter clearance issues with the baffles of the oil pan?

For what its work, the drain plug on my oil pan is big, i.e. takes a 22mm wrench to remove and I have the old style pump and pickup.

simps80
05-20-2014, 01:07 PM
i haven't installed it yet, I guess I'll put the new pump on the block then see whats up with the pans...

I have 2 pans from presumably the two motors I took apart (i'm losing track of parts at this point)

and they are the same, the pans appear identical.

but the two oil pumps are different.

and the pans changed with the pumps from what I've read.

maybe i'll just try to bolt it together and see what's what

thanks Ricardo

treerootCO
05-20-2014, 01:10 PM
Use the new style pump and pickup

SOR:

Oem Oil Pan -
Fits 1958-8/87-Requires updated plug #034-43M & gasket #034-44M, order separately - YOUR OLD ONES WILL NOT FIT THE NEW OIL PAN

simps80
05-20-2014, 03:29 PM
yea it fits with new pump and THAT pan which is good cause that's the powder coated one ;)

thanks for the replies

so that's all together now, up top is next

pics cause as usual I like them

37383

37384

nuclearlemon
05-21-2014, 08:49 PM
done yet?

simps80
05-21-2014, 10:17 PM
done yet?

Nope saving it for you.
I got another bolt in the pan..only 21 more.
:D

Snowrun
05-22-2014, 07:33 AM
Keep the pics coming. It is great to see the truck coming together. :)

rover67
05-22-2014, 09:08 AM
Pure awesome.

I assume it spins over nice?

Rezarf
05-22-2014, 12:03 PM
Lets go wheelin!

simps80
05-23-2014, 04:24 PM
Pure awesome.

I assume it spins over nice?

it does. once all 6 were in i could still spin it by hand with the crank timing gear but it was more difficult, yet smooth. now i have to use the crank nut with a socket but its still smooth

Lets go wheelin!
indeed!

Keep the pics coming. It is great to see the truck coming together. :)

oh I've got all sorts of pics of various minutia..you just wait for the ridiculousness I take pictures of ;)

simps80
05-23-2014, 04:28 PM
so.. took today off from work..cause I hate it, but also cause I wanted to work on this engine a bit more.

I put all new shiny bolts in the oil pan..I'll be recycling mine back through the plater to return to the generous donor of the new hardware whom I sure none of you could guess the identity.

I looked for some data for torque specs for a while so i'll put these here
the pan calls for 84 inch pounds

the timing cover calls for 43 inch pounds for the small ones and 18 lb/fts for the 2 14mm bolts.

I don't have a torque wrench that reliably goes that low
so when I was at Auto Zone they had a free in/lb 3/8" drive rental .. it was handy and free so why not

37397

simps80
05-23-2014, 04:34 PM
I am really impressed with toyota's gasket kit.

I have 3 total sets of gasket kits now including 2 different non-oem and then toyota's.

Its not even close on quality. Even down to the packaging, Nicely boxed and organized, Toyota even bubble wraps the all-important head gasket.

37398

So I put that on after filing down the little locating ferrules since the head and block were decked, and the ferrules wre a little rough from removal.

Once the head was on, I figured better paint this deal before I get too much farther.

so...I made a paper mache valve cover to approximate what should and should not be painted on the head, then taped over the powder coated timing gear and oil pan.
then taped over mating surface for manifols and trimmed tape to match profile.
then taped over side cover opening.

37399

i was going to leave the freeze plugs silver but I got tired of taping

37400

37401

ok its not paper mache. lol. reading test... moving on.

simps80
05-23-2014, 04:36 PM
they had decent high temp engine paint that matched the powder coating at the auto zone so I bought it.

downsides of black I've read and agree with:
1. you can't see the oil leaks.

Upsides of black I've read and agree with:
1. you can't see the oil leaks.

37402

I primered it with a few coats

37403

37404

37405

simps80
05-23-2014, 04:39 PM
did the same with the paint
3 coats
the directions said 10 minutes apart all within an hour inclduing primer
so I got that done.

by now my patience was wearing thin with lame picture taking
so I moved on to putting in lifters and push rods and then the studs for the valve lifters.

so that's where it stands now

37406

I took apart one of the 3 sets of fans, then two sets of thermostat housings and put them in the dishwasher before the wife got home...shhh only dreams now.

simps80
05-23-2014, 04:55 PM
so that's one of the questions I need to research now,

its a 78 block a 76 chassis.

the lower thermostat housing for instance I have one tapped for that sensor/sending unit deal and one without. need to figure out which one to use for that.

then the water pumps .. I must have 4 of them.

I was thinking about ordering a new one of those and fuel pump just cause ...

sor lists several different applications. I do have oil cooler and the truck was california emissions....

Water Pump -
Fits 1/75-8/76 FJ40 & FJ55 without oil cooler -

Water Pump -
Fits 1/76-8/76 FJ40 California model with oil cooler & without fan clutch -

Water Pump -
Fits 8/76-1/79 FJ40 with fan clutch & without oil cooler -.

Water Pump -
Fits 8/76-1/79 FJ40 California with oil cooler & fan clutch -

if I matched the 'truck' it would be the california model with oil cooler and no fan clutch.

The best fan I have is one that is for a clutch. I think I'd prefer to use that since its way nicer than the other fans I have...

so I think that menas I should order an 8/76-1/79 california with oil cooler and fan clutch....
??

any input on the t-stat housing with that sensor deal..whether or not that's improtant..
and then do you think i'm right on the water pump ?

simps80
05-23-2014, 05:02 PM
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/water-pump-answers-sticky-or-faq.534283/

that answers the water pump question.

now onto the thermostat housing ...

Rzeppa
05-23-2014, 05:18 PM
The threaded hole on the t-stat housing is for the Bimetalic vacuum switching Valve (BVSV). 1978s had one of them IIRC, 1980-up have 2 of them, a red and a purple. They connect to the vacuum spaghetti to switch stuff at various temperatures, one is for below ambient cold cold and the other one is to tell when the coolant is starting to warm up. There will be nowhere to connect them on a 1976 application, so you can either plug the hole (they are 1/4 NPT IIRC) or put an aftermarket temperature sender there for an aftermarket temperature gauge, as the PO of my 60 did.

1976 CA spec is indeed oil cooler and solid (white plastic) fan standard. As you surmised, if you want a fan clutch fan you'll need a different pump (shorter nose IIRC).

simps80
05-23-2014, 05:23 PM
Bam..aftermarket temp gauge..I wanted to do that along with oil pressure gauge..perfect..
So that answers both rambling questions thanks Jeff!

Rzeppa
05-23-2014, 10:38 PM
aftermarket oil pressure gauge
You can put in a 1/8 FNPT T fitting on the oil pressure sender spot on the cooler and run both factory dash and aftermarket gauges if you choose. I have that setup on a couple of my Cruisers.

Rzeppa
05-23-2014, 10:41 PM
Oh and one other thing - I was able to buy a brand new OEM white plastic non-clutch fan for my 76 from Stevinson, they may still be available.

simps80
05-23-2014, 10:58 PM
You can put in a 1/8 FNPT T fitting on the oil pressure sender spot on the cooler and run both factory dash and aftermarket gauges if you choose. I have that setup on a couple of my Cruisers.

Crazy..I was just reading this on the exact subject.
You must be in my head :)
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj40-aftermarket-oil-pressure-gauge.551516/

Fishy
06-06-2014, 12:36 AM
And the finished project......;)

kurtnkegger
06-06-2014, 08:04 AM
/\ I just threwup in my mouth a little bit.

simps80
06-07-2014, 07:37 PM
Speaking of bling..anyone know the proper orientation of the valve cover stickers?

2f goes on front pretty sure .
But the sticker for "improved combustion system"
Dont know which way the words face.

Not real important but would like to get it right before clear

37567

Rzeppa
06-07-2014, 10:53 PM
And the finished project......;)

Oh good lord. I just threw up like about a 5 course dinner. That was SO gross! Eeeeeew!

treerootCO
06-08-2014, 02:12 PM
speaking Of Bling..anyone Know The Proper Orientation Of The Valve Cover Stickers?

2f Goes On Front Pretty Sure .
But The Sticker For "improved Combustion System"
Dont Know Which Way The Words Face.

Not Real Important But Would Like To Get It Right Before Clear


'75
37573
'76
37574
'79
37575

The Toyota Improved Combustion Sticker is on the side
37576

37578

37577

simps80
06-08-2014, 11:27 PM
thanks for the pictures.
couldn't find any on mud of the "combustion system" sticker location.

simps80
06-09-2014, 10:30 PM
Waiting on parts..so spent a bit of time putting some other things together.
Amazing how long some of this minutia takes.
The carb fan was in bad shape. I took it apart and powder coated it with all the rest of the stuff.

Shane aatlas1x had the new sticker.

Good thing about this kind of stuff is I can do this while watching tv which somewhat appeases the wife.

Elbow grease some new hardware and new sticker equals cool

Before
37599

37600

After

37601

37602

Rzeppa
06-09-2014, 10:50 PM
My fan was inoperable when I got the my '76 back in 1982 so I tossed it. Stupid move but I didn't know better back then.

simps80
06-16-2014, 11:58 PM
Jeff I think I have another fan I will look you can have it if u want it.

On an unrelated note..I made some more progress..getting closer

37668

treerootCO
06-24-2014, 09:49 AM
Found one possible issue staring at 1976 microfiche (1/75? to 9/77 the nipple for the oil cooler is out the back of the t-stat). I don't know what the hose looks like that could make that tight bend.

That upper pipe shows up somewhere between 1/76 to 8/76 for the oil cooler even though the oil cooler itself was 1/76 to 8/92

37726

37727

37728

simps80
06-24-2014, 10:28 AM
yea you're right.
going to be tough to get water to the oil cooler with that upper t-stat housing

:mad::mad::mad:

Rzeppa
06-24-2014, 08:40 PM
yea you're right.
going to be tough to get water to the oil cooler with that upper t-stat housing

:mad::mad::mad:

Just checked my parts piles and all I could find were earlier t-stat housings...:(

simps80
06-24-2014, 09:00 PM
Thanks jeff!!
I just found one in my pile
Also found the right egr pipe that screws into the exhaust manifold rather than the two bolt style :headbang:

simps80
07-09-2014, 10:28 PM
So still picking away at this. Once the EGR comes back from the coater I'll bolt that on and be done with the engine and ready to take it off the stand and bolt up the bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, transmission and t-case then put it in the car.

This was the last major hurdle, finding usable manifolds and egr components and getting them prepped.

I took the manifolds and got them sandblasted, then sprayed the exhaust manifold with 1500 degree paint.

I just cleared the intake with 1500 degree clear.

then like a lot of the threads I researched, they weren't flat, and also the moutning bosses from intake to exhaust didn't line up quite right.

I elected to take the manifolds paired together and get them milled down (really sanded down) flat at spitfire auto off of 64th and federal. They had to take a lot off.

37818

37819

I was concerned about the offset, but further reading led me to a good solution.
Rover67 has a lot of good input spread around I read.

1. mill them flat bolted together
2. leave the 3 bolts on the top that bolt them together loose
3. leave the 2 nuts on the studs on the bottom loose.
4. get it bolted up onto the head as lined up as possible
5. tighten down the 3 bolts and 2 nuts holding the manifolds together after its torqued and in place on the head.

you can see how much the holes were offset:

37816

37817

simps80
07-09-2014, 10:37 PM
I used new OEM hardware even though the bolts on the bottom are 'new style'. It was all still available so I bought it and used it.

37822
37823

The heat riser on this manifold still was in good shape and worked flawlessly after sandblasting.

the insulator was still availalbe as well as the twin gaskets above and below the insulator.
the insulator is concave so as to allow the 'sweep' of the heat riser itself up from the exhaust into the intake, it is possible to mount it upside down, but it will be obvious because the heat riser will 'hit' the insulator if its upside down, so the concave section goes 'up' into the intake.

37820

I was able to get the two upper offsets pretty close and the washer made good contact with both recessed surfaces and it torqued down flat.

37821

pretty hapy with this little finished section of this project.


37825

so now its just the egr, then off the stand it comes and on to the next section of bolting it all together and putting it in the truck. The egr should be ready next week.

I saw the back surgeon Tuesday.
I have seen imrpovement with the pain levels since the initial injury
so he said no surgery if its improving on its own is his preference and to take it easy. So the progress while slow up to this point may be slower. I'd still like to get it to the rally but that seems ambitious at this point.

we'll see
thanks for looking
:cheers:

edit: sorry for all the minutia, I am trying to write down with pictures all of the junk I have had to spend a lot of time researching to figure out. maybe one day it will help someone, I realize this is pretty basic stuff for most of the people here, but its not basic for everyone and certainly hasn't been very intuitive for me.

Cheers!

RicardoJM
07-10-2014, 06:44 AM
... edit: sorry for all the minutia, I am trying to write down with pictures all of the junk I have had to spend a lot of time researching to figure out. maybe one day it will help someone, I realize this is pretty basic stuff for most of the people here, but its not basic for everyone and certainly hasn't been very intuitive for me. ...

The detail is great stuff :thumb:. It is enjoyable (to me) to follow your progress and see the pictures and read the specifics you detail. I am confident that others will benefit from your documenting efforts in this thread.

MountainGoat
07-10-2014, 07:26 AM
I agree with Ricardo. Don't apologize for the minutia, that's what makes it interesting. :cool: Nice build Mike!

SteveH
07-10-2014, 09:30 AM
I haven't had my manifolds apart in many years - good photos and reminders of what's going on inside there. Nice to see that some of the OEM parts are still available.

Jacket
07-10-2014, 03:34 PM
That's a good lookin' motor. Wanna trade?

Rzeppa
07-12-2014, 11:54 AM
sorry for all the minutia

Don't apologize, this is going to help someone. I had probably done manifolds 3-4 times before I figured out the trick of leaving the intake loose from the exhaust, torquing down the nuts/bolts and THEN tightening the intake and the exhaust together.

A word of caution to n00bs too - because the intake is made of aluminum and the fasteners are made of steel, it is all too easy to strip the threads on the intake if the fasteners are overtightened. Then you have to helicoil them. DAMHIK.

simps80
07-14-2014, 12:14 AM
This is why we can't have nice things.

Literally the last step..
Adjusted the valves then went about the business of putting in the distributor.

Found tdc compression of #1
Put new points in and new rotor
Put dizzy in with 1 pointed toward #4 plug..
Turned crank a little dizzy went in. (Hard to find 7dgr btdc with no flywheel..still waiting on some stuff from $OR for flywheel and clutch)

Turned engine over a few rotations..rotor did its thing.
Figured I was good. Last rotation it got chunky. .weird
Then rotor stopped rotating.

Stopped.
Tried pulling dizzy..it was stuck solid..and I mean stuck. Would not come out.

Pulled pan..could not remove oil pump the dizzy and pump were jammed together.

Noticed cam gear that drives dizzy had two chipped teeth.

Finally pulled pump apart pulled out drive gear to get to bottom of dizzy shaft through the pump..
Had to beat the living crap out of it through the pump to get dizzy free from pump. Best guess is some chunk of the teeth fell into the shaft locking the pump and distributor together

So now I have a ruined pump distributor and cam.

37835
37836

Clearly I did something wrong.
So will order more parts and tear it down and do the cam
Put it back together then put flywheel in and stab distributor using flywheel marks...
And possibly wait for some very experienced assistance next time I stab the distributor.

If I didnt know better I would swear this thing wants some lame 307 wheezing two barrel v8 living under its hood.

Rezarf
07-14-2014, 01:03 PM
Sorry man, set backs like that really, really, really stink.

You'll get it sorted out. What do you need that is flywheel related?

It looks really good, and when you hear it fire, it'll all be worth it.

RicardoJM
07-14-2014, 06:15 PM
Bummer. Good news is that the new components will last that much longer. :D.

treerootCO
07-14-2014, 11:12 PM
We can rebuild him, we have the technology... and now a completely unrelated reference to cheer you up.

37852

simps80
07-15-2014, 12:24 AM
I think that picture you posted was random...it instantly reminded me of something that I think is TOO obscure to be related...but the resemblance is uncanny....

Plus I think you are too young to know this early 80s lee majors tv favorite....

But that truck reminded me right off of it.....

Anyone guess????

37853

The 80s had lots of good car tv shows!

treerootCO
07-15-2014, 04:17 AM
That was the reference I was going for ;) My pic must have been someone else's rendition on that truck

nuclearlemon
07-15-2014, 06:36 AM
was that the fall guy?

simps80
07-15-2014, 03:28 PM
yes the fall guy!!

I think I found some toys Mike doesn't have yet

37854

37855

to chat!

simps80
08-03-2014, 08:48 PM
Made up some ground and then sone small progress.

At last post the distributor snafu ruined the cam gear and oil pump.

I ordered new pump and new cam.

Back is still pretty bad..actually injured lower right side..doc said its muscle this time which is good..so the kids helped me a lot putting new cam and pump and buttoning back up.

38023

I think I enjoyed them helping more than they enjoyed helping.....

Took some more time away....
Today decided to get it off the stand and started putting the back together.

Read good tip on pilot bearing...fit it to input shaft of transmission before putting it in.

Wouldn't have thought of that and sure enough input shaft needed a lot of Emory clothing before bearing would go on..

38027

This pilot bearing is all the way in pretty sure right?

38025

After that mounted up the bell housing..another torque spec it took me a long time to find..47 ft lbs for the 12x1.75 bolts..

Finished off todays work putting on rear mounts..
Then the girls helped me get it lined up ok on the stands..
Leaving hoist and chain in place as safety

38028

simps80
08-03-2014, 08:57 PM
Also ordered one of the blower housing rebuild kits from metrictlc..

Took it apart cleaned it all up..used some plastic paint and cleaned up the duct work..turned out pretty good


38029

38030

Oh yea and new firewall grommets
Oh yea.. new oem toyota rag joint too

Crash
08-03-2014, 09:15 PM
Looking good, Mike. A long time ago, I found that wearing a dirt bike riding belt helped keep the back pain down when working on trucks. The extra support helps.

simps80
08-03-2014, 09:23 PM
Yea injury number 3 was because I tried to play golf and knew I shouldn't cause it was too soon after injury number 2.

I was "protecting" my left side swinging weird and tore a muscle on the right...

I am realizing I am getting too old to treat my body the way I did in my twenties..

Strengthening my core and losing weight is my focus now.

But I am determined to get as close as I can to driving this to the rally..
I will have to check into that motorcycle belt.

nuclearlemon
08-06-2014, 01:34 PM
done yet?



done yet?





done yet?

treerootCO
08-06-2014, 02:31 PM
actively working on it now....

simps80
08-07-2014, 09:51 AM
Put flywheel in torqued to 58 ft-lbs with blue loctite pushed tabs up on lock plates.

38055

Then went about the business of figuring out the throwout bearing. I used this old piston pin from a mack e6 which was exact diameter and tapped the collar out from old bearing.
Then used the old bearing to press the new one onto collar.

38056

38057.

The next day I called in the air support.
Mike and john came over to lend me some massive help.

Started by inspecting the internals of the tcase and transmission then put new gaskets and front seal in.

38058

Ignore the exxon oil slick..lol

simps80
08-07-2014, 10:03 AM
Next up went clutch disc and cover.

Sprayed down flywheel and clutch with brake clean then bolted it in with fresh toyota 8mm bolts torqued to 16 ft lbs. Very slowly torqued one by one in even sequence.

Somehow missed the pics of that.

Next we slid this mess together and with the other two that went much smoother than I imagined it. Torqued the trans to bell fresh bolts to 62 ft lbs evenly.

38059

After that it was time to finally put it in the truck..

The truck was pretty high up on jack stands so we left the back up and dropped the front down which really helped with the angles. Used some ratchet straps for safeties under the engine..then once it cleared the front diff we dropped it down slowly and brought trans up with floor jack. It swung into place with minimal trouble. It was very helpful to have 3 sets of eyes and hands!!

At the stopping point last night we had this! !

38060

Again huge thanks to Mike and John..big times

wesintl
08-07-2014, 11:29 AM
OMG, that's awesome!

subzali
08-07-2014, 12:28 PM
OMG, that's awesome!

x2, so exciting!

Rzeppa
08-09-2014, 01:50 PM
Lots easier without the fenders :)

Hulk
08-09-2014, 11:31 PM
Super cool. You're going to have a dream FJ40!

simps80
08-13-2014, 07:44 PM
Thanks everyone for the encouragement and nice words.

Made some more random progress.

Took apart the inside to clean out the tank..
The inside of the tank was perfect despite the old gas in there.

The outside of the tank had some surface rust corresponding to the felt spacers.

The floor pan had some surface rust underneath the felt too.

Cleaned both up then used rust converter then sparingly covered in a quality epoxy.

38186

38184

38185

The history lesson on the floor pan was interesting..
This Wyoming rancher liked poker, cigarettes, and beer..good trifecta.. Lots of old pull tab can tops and some miller bottle caps and several matchbooks from some laramie "points of interest" were found.

Meanwhile there has been an ongoing war between me and the egr system.

I had a couple egr sets i have been acquiring. So I have been using components of each to try to make one usable. I needed the manifold pipe off this one but after a week of heat rust penetrant wax a 4 foot cheater a new expensive wrench and lots of fruitless effort..
38187

Mike came over and assessed that the shock was being lost by the movement of the wood bench mounted vise.

We took it out front and parked a tire on it and eventually the 4 foot cheater and new 1 7/16 wrench (36mm wrench not available quickly) got it loose.

simps80
08-13-2014, 07:59 PM
That same day..a very long one...
We took the seats over to F&H upholstery to have them put on the new seats I ordered from $OR.

The guy said "first week of october"

Mike said we could do it...

He was right but not a lot of we in that..
He did the majority of that by a lot....my neighbor Charlie helped and I did some. They turned out awesome thanks Mike! We used new foam bottoms and wrapped them in plastic and used spray adhesive to hold the plastic to the foam nice and tight..the originals had plasric over the foam makes sense to keep liquid off the foam.

38188

38189

Last week I dropped the 5 rims off at colorado powder coaters

Picked them up today took them to discount for new rubber .this high impact stuff like seats and wheels is very exciting!!

38190

Hoping to fire soon..got the original nippon denso starter and alternator out for rebuild..

Spitzer doesn't do it anymore but years ago we did a lot of business with A1 Auto Electric..they are now A1 Best..But its the same guy..they still do rebuilds so they got that work.

Rocky mountain drive shafts have the shafts..

Its getting close

simps80
08-13-2014, 09:15 PM
One last cool picture that was fun.

I bought a jack a while ago off ebay...
Mine was an october 1971 jack..mike traded me for a sept 1976 jack...which is much closer to right.
So I had to install that and the oem tool bag that was in the truck when I bought it...
So cool

38191

treerootCO
08-14-2014, 06:04 AM
I am excited to see the freshly coated rims and new rubber! :)

Jacket
08-14-2014, 08:51 AM
Those seats look damn good. I'm jealous.

rover67
08-14-2014, 09:16 AM
Man, I'm getting excited, this is gonna be a sweeeet rig!!!!!

subzali
08-14-2014, 10:03 AM
So sweet.

treerootCO
08-15-2014, 03:04 PM
No pics but the PCV was installed yesterday. It was a productive day.

PabloCruise
08-15-2014, 03:44 PM
Those seats look damn good. I'm jealous.

I wish I would have attempted my seats with the help of the collective wisdom of RS, vs my experience with a local upholstery shop...

simps80
08-17-2014, 09:28 PM
Lots of progress friday saturday and sunday.
Big thanks to Mike for donating his time..
And neighbor Charlie.

Got the alternator and starter back from A1.
Got the drive shafts back from rocky mountain. Have new bolts coming..can put back with old ones if need be.
Got the son moved into dorms Friday

Found a mom and pop tire shop to mount the tiny tires on the tiny stock rims after discount nor big o would touch them.

That killed half of two days. That is a long ash story...

So work done:
Crank pulley nut re torqued.
Rear of truck done for now. Painted up the axle and surroundings.
Installed new shocks.
Tires mounted on rear.
Brakes inspected
Diff fluid changed 2.6 quarts
Steering gear filled .6 quarts
Interior put back together.
New boots.
Reattached tcase shifter bracket
Starter and alternator mounted
Clutch slave installed and adjusted.
Fuel lines installed and plumbed.
Most water plumbed..need to finish shroud we found at mikes..I never had one..test fits were successful.
Actually I do and did have one off the 75 but its beat and doesn't fit right.


Setbacks:
Attempts to bleed brakes and clutch found bad brake master and clutch master.
Couldn't find replacement distributor. Treeroot has several we may be able to use to make one. There is one at some goofball place in new jersey. Will call tomorrow. This is the limiter.

Need it to make further mechanical progress.
Will work on putting other things together in the meantime.

So waiting on:
Throttle linkage piece
Distributor
Master cylinder..brake and clutch
3rd try on egr hardware
Drive line bolts
Speedo cable

Words done. Pics.

38227

38228

38229

38230

simps80
08-17-2014, 09:32 PM
Oh also decided since so much effort has gone into emissions a new air pump was a good idea since everything else is working and reconditioned.

Reman came in..will bolt it on when paint is dry..didnt like the blue on the other one and it was de-veined..pretty pumpedvto have a fully compliant emissions..
Even found the correct vsv on ebay with the right connectors

38231

simps80
08-18-2014, 06:20 AM
The goofball place in new jersey whose site says they have a distributor doesn't.

So if anyone has a known good one let me know.

The one I had was 19100-61020

subzali
08-18-2014, 06:32 AM
So you decided not to go with the thermo nuclear reactor exhaust manifold? I've heard they are really hard to come by and California even allows exemptions if the original one is missing

subzali
08-18-2014, 06:34 AM
The goofball place in new jersey whose site says they have a distributor doesn't.



So if anyone has a known good one let me know.



The one I had was 19100-61020


I would call mark algazy and see if he has one. The place in New Jersey - was it cruiserparts.net? Or also try classic cruisers in salida

simps80
08-18-2014, 06:45 AM
No it wasn't cruiserparts.. it wasn't a cruiser place at all.
...
Classic cruisers..I would hate to see what they want for a distributor..I bought the two carb fuel lines from them..
They charged 125 for those lines in rough shape and clogged

Yea the the california spec crazy exhaust manifold is difficult to come by..
I wanted a one piece even though its not original.

treerootCO
08-18-2014, 09:28 AM
A1 Cardone

http://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_4851_4494_4521&products_id=286&zenid=2e29a74572e08942eb4bfe874ce472b4

Distributor for California Emissions Points
Starting at: $199.00

Send us the price
Remanufactured california distributor. Fits F and 2F with points style emissions.

38237

treerootCO
08-18-2014, 09:30 AM
pretty sure yours is a vacuum retard and I don't know why Spector says you can't use the ignitor (the new one has a condensor is my guess)

http://www.sor.com/cat022.sor

Vacuum Advance Distributor-
Aftermarket-Fits 1975-8/87 - must purchase updated clamp #022-06, order separately if needed-For 9/71-8/87 vehicles must purchase ignition coil #024-03A, order separately if needed
Club Price is $ 254.15 Click here for info about Club SOR

38238

treerootCO
08-18-2014, 09:33 AM
If you call mark www.marksoffroad.net, make sure you tell him you know me.


Toyota:

19100 DISTRIBUTOR ASSY
19100-61020 (01/1975 - 01/1976) 1 $521.93
19100-61021 (08/1976 - 08/1977) 1 $584.08
19100-61060 CALIFORNIA SPEC. (08/1976 - 08/1977) 1
19100-61061 CALIFORNIA SPEC. (09/1977 - 12/1978) 1 $856.19
19100-61100 (09/1977 - 12/1978) 1 $856.19
19100-61110 HIGH ALTITUDE SPEC. 1

treerootCO
08-18-2014, 09:40 AM
IPW Automotive Warehouse - 303-825-2000 Denver, CO USA
www.ipwparts.com/
IPW Automotive Warehouse, national warehouse distributor of auto parts and accessories.

501 Kalamath St, Denver, CO 80204
(303) 825-2000

treerootCO
08-18-2014, 09:44 AM
you'll love this one

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-31-720

38239

38240

38241

simps80
08-18-2014, 09:45 AM
Thats just like all the others who show a1 cardone in stock.
It's not in stock because a1cardone is out of stock.

Cruiserparts has a "good used one"
Which I ordered and Ricardo has another setup too which sounds awesome
So should be in good shape on it

wesintl
08-18-2014, 11:28 AM
doesn't marshall (trollhole on mud) have new carbs and dizzy's?

http://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/trollholes-cruisers.239/

simps80
08-18-2014, 11:58 PM
The thrash continues...
Items done: (its like dominos)
Needed to fill tcase so...
Parking brake in and adjusted.
New speedo cable installed with new felt seal.
The old drive was missing only the casing was there.
Filled trans and tcase
Installed the shafts from rocky mountain. They balanced them put in new u-joints and re-phased one yoke.

Front brakes looked good
Put on tires
Painted up new shroud from mikes discount toyota parts warehouse.
Installed new belts. Saved belt labels cause that was a colossal waste of time getting them right by application in the part store computers.

Finished install of radiator including good rubber instead of the water wicking old insulators.

Finished up battery tray.
Got group 27 battery.

Installed all the various inspection covers and splash shields.
Filled radiator.
Filled engine oil.

Clutch master expected delivery Wednesday.
EGR hardware, mirrors and other smalls Tuesday.
Brake master Tuesday.
Mechanical oil pressure gauge Tuesday.

I had ordered a 1/8"bspt male to 1/8" npt female adapter then I used another egr bolt that had threads for the original electric oil pressure sender. So now I can have both. I want verification on this motor. I want no doubts.

38247

I picked a vintage looking gauge cause I wanted it to look right.
I think a newer style gauge would look silly. I will mount it in some non-intrusive way.

38248

I have its twin for water temp but the probe is really long so I am still thinking on that one

So tomorrow we drag it down to a&a performance exhaust.

Then its back Wednesday to finish out the list..all parts should be in hand by then.

Putting it and me to bed for the night.
Literally everything that can be done is now done without the parts we are waiting on other than some spit and shine.
That will have to wait till the rally is over and the dust settles and the wife has at least one of the three bays back to use lol

The garage looks beat but the beast looks good..poised and ready to be freed from its 2.5 year incarceration.

38249

subzali
08-19-2014, 06:14 AM
Looks so good. You found proper width belts at auto stores? My experience was that the Toyota belts had no comparison to be found anywhere

Rezarf
08-19-2014, 08:07 AM
Yeah post up the belt numbers!

Man that is looking sooo good, you'll have one of the nicest 40s in town with that ride. I'd love to take it for a spin with you. My 2.0 version of my 40 is going to go more towards stock rather than bigger.

simps80
08-19-2014, 11:17 PM
Thanks guys for the comments.
And heck yes we can take it out for a spin!
Maybe I can ditch work on a Friday morning and drive it to a nstbc.

I think the pictures may make the body look nicer than it is.
But it is in very good original condition and I am pretty sure after turning wrenches on it for the past 2 years that the 40k on the odometer is 40k not 140k.

All my efforts are focused on running driving.
Making things nice that are related to making it run and drive. If it needed to be done to be functional it also got pretty.
Like the blinged out engine..it didn't have one..so the effort to make it pretty is minimal and functional. Fuel lines are a good example. Starting with a blank slate and acquiring parts from all over..some of the fuel lines were crusty inside and out.
Getting them plated also cleans out the inside...Same thing with bolts very nice to work with new old exact match hardware..ok rambling..

The body work I will leave till later or maybe just leave it in its current natural state...I like some patina on a 38 year old rig.

More thrash today...
Exhaust is done thanks to A&A exhaust. .that place is awesome!! And Scott is super nice and cool. That was today's major goal and they knocked it out of the park. Can't say enough good things there.

After exhaust was done brought her home and found that more parts came in as expected.

New brake master made it so put that in and bled brakes..have good pedal now.

Finished off egr..its a conglomeration of 3 egrs. Had to tap the block for the egr bolts..got correct hardware this time.

Also got the throttle linkage stuff needed to actually install carb. Did that and Mike fixed a couple of my carb linkage mistakes I made that i didn't know I made when I rebuilt the carb last year.

New mirror heads..mine were broken.
So now fuel is done cooling is done.
Windows roll down..mike fixed that while Charlie and I monkeyed with the egr.
Also forgot to take exhaust gasket/ring in to shop..so dropped pipe and put that in.

Finished off the night entertaining ourselves honking the horn with alligator clips. .lol.

Then put her to bed off jack stands on her own 4 feet all by herself.

38259

This one is dark..but I like that they routed the exhaust such that they used the stock brace that mounts to the driver rear motor mount.

38264

38263

38261

38260

38262

Rzeppa
08-20-2014, 12:45 AM
Looking good Mike! I run a T for the oil pressure to both stock and aftermarket oil pressure gauges on my '71 '40 and my '87 '60. I just use 1/8 NPT threads...

Jacket
08-20-2014, 02:28 PM
So did you fire her up yet?

simps80
08-20-2014, 06:22 PM
Nope cruiserparts "forgot to ship it"
After paying for air freight.

Gonna see if I can meet up with Ricardo.

treerootCO
08-20-2014, 07:04 PM
He did order a windshield today. Elite quoted him $1,200 installed. The phone conversation was pretty funny.

Rzeppa
08-20-2014, 11:21 PM
Nope cruiserparts "forgot to ship it"
After paying for air freight.

Gonna see if I can meet up with Ricardo.

I have a bunch of LC distributors, non of them resto quality but if you just want to fire it up I can definitely hook you up. I could bring any of them to the Rally on Saturday?

simps80
08-21-2014, 01:02 AM
I have a bunch of LC distributors, non of them resto quality but if you just want to fire it up I can definitely hook you up. I could bring any of them to the Rally on Saturday?

Thanks Jeff I will let you know. I got a couple from Ricardo tonight..THANKS Ricardo!!

If for some reason these don't work I will gladly take you up on that.

All that got done today is the clutch master and hose were put in and we bled the clutch. Nice aisin unit. But that rounds out hydraulics.
Oh and I put a quickie coat of undercoating on the front fenders.

RicardoJM
08-21-2014, 03:43 PM
Latest word is this rig is running :thumb:

simps80
08-22-2014, 02:50 AM
ueqODOYnRaU

It runs is right!

Thanks Ricardo for the dizzy setup..it was perfect!

Special thanks to Gary and Mike for some wicked foo they laid down troubleshooting...Really impressive.

Another one after a few more kinks worked out
gbkJr89fzTU

simps80
08-22-2014, 03:05 AM
E.T.reeroot phone home!

38273

I make me laugh after a marathon thrash!!

RicardoJM
08-22-2014, 05:19 AM
The first startup of a rebuild still is something I marvel at. Nice work on a sweet 40. Now get out there and run it like you stole it. :D

Hulk
08-22-2014, 09:39 AM
Awesome!

MountainGoat
08-22-2014, 10:00 AM
It's aliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiive! :hill:

Nice job man. :thumb:

Jacket
08-22-2014, 10:55 AM
I think I saw an oil leak. :bolt:

rover67
08-22-2014, 11:51 AM
thats bad a s s

simps80
08-24-2014, 01:19 AM
My goal was to drive it to the rally.

We made it!!

Great rally..as always..this was special though being able to drive my 40 to this one...

happened to catch this shot...I think its TJ's fj55

38281

Then a lonesome one..

38282

subzali
08-24-2014, 06:53 AM
That is so awesome. Nice looking 40 Mike!

simps80
08-26-2014, 09:53 PM
Thanks Matt!

So now that the thrash is done.
Time to tune.

It won't run unless its half choked and I know that won't pass smog...now I am in no hurry here..I am going to try to learn cause I am a carb moron
...

So monday I started about the business of troubleshooting the idle...

All indications were vacuum leak..choke to idle..missing..unburned fuel..or idle circuit problem...I know the solenoid works..it clicks with key..

Ether around manifold and carb base made it stumble and almost die (thought ether would do opposite but it didn't)

So I torqued all manifold bolts..they were a touch loose..

That actually yielded a vacuum improvement..it went from just under 14 and dropping with stumble to just over 15 and stumble..

Put a turn on carb studs and 3 of 4 tightened a bit.

The 4th just spun..right off the bat..
So either stud broke or manifold stripped...
It was the latter..

38420

So I did some research..seems to repair threads best option (short of tig welding hole and redrilling) was a time-sert..I had used helicoils before but apparently this timesert deal was more dependable...

So I called around and found a 8mmx1.25 kit at triple a metric..
Drove fown and picked it up this afternoon...spendy but quality..
38421

Its a 4 step process..
The kit came with:
1. Drill bit
2. Countersink bit
3. Tap
4. Timesert insertion tool.
5. A few timeserts.

So I drilled the hole with the bit stopping .25 inches from bottom of hole as prescribed and measured.

Then countersuck the top..their bit is built to countersink a precise amount..but I stopped a bit short anyway cause I was scared..lol

Then tapped it again .25 inches from bottom.

Yielding this
38422

I had previously stuffed a towel and duck tape in the hole but removed it here.

Then using their insertion tool as instructed I inserted the timesert "as it will get hard on last two threads then easy as it is fully inserted"

That yielded this...
38423

I re stuffed the hole cause I was going to file down the tiny ridge that was proud of the manifold..then I called mike and he said "why not just use that countersink bit on the insulator and remove a tiny bit"

Man that was smart..

Anyway..finished up mounting carb tonight

It definitely is improved.... after some gyrations with screws...I can now idle off choke..
But its real rough at about 850..smooth only higher..
Still smell unburned fuel...and it is still coming out main nozzle at idle
So will continue on that..
Its fun..for now..been reading a lot..

simps80
08-26-2014, 10:36 PM
Ok that last post was too tech heavy...
So after that...
I finished off the night with a sweet score from the rally...
A new inner tcase shifter boot...nla and no one sells a repop...

38425

But even better I upgraded from ghetto ebay manual to private reserve de la Ige mint ash manual.

38426
:thumb:
Thank you Ige!!:thumb:

Rzeppa
08-29-2014, 10:56 PM
Oh, remember when I mentioned about potentially overtightening the bolts that hold the manifolds to each other, that the intake is aluminum and if you overtighten it can strip?

I forgot to mention the carb studs. BTDT :mad: Same thing. I got a helicoil in one of my manifolds (forget which rig).

wesintl
08-30-2014, 01:10 PM
I'm surprised mike didn't talk you into a High po f manifold with the runners :eek:

simps80
08-31-2014, 04:57 PM
I'm surprised mike didn't talk you into a High po f manifold with the runners :eek:

Kinda wish I had...that and a header after this..

Oh, remember when I mentioned about potentially overtightening the bolts that hold the manifolds to each other, that the intake is aluminum and if you overtighten it can strip?

I forgot to mention the carb studs. BTDT :mad: Same thing. I got a helicoil in one of my manifolds (forget which rig).

I heeded that advice....more on that in a minute

So.....
I just now got the idle problem fixed.
WARNING MAY BE BORING TO EXPERIENCED CARB PEOPLE


It was 2 (maybe 3) separate problems.

I think I read every single "wont idle" thread on mud.
It is funny to see the thought process of some of the authorities on mud evolve over time. And frustrating how there are not very many pictures explaining what the heavy hitters say..I think they take their knowledge level for granted...


Pin_head was eventually right in my case as well.

He says over and over..half choke to idle plus fuel out the main nozzle is vacuum leak or no fuel in idle curcuit.

For me it was both.
But the idle circuit issue wasn't clear to me so I am documenting it here..wasted way too much time and probably 3 to 4 extra removal/installation cycles of my carb.

I eventually pulled the carb off again and set out to map the idle circuit through the carb..

I pulled the idle solenoid and checked it on the battery again..it worked.

I then took carb cleaner and sprayed it into the hole the solenoid goes in..it went nowhere.

I had a spare carb..did same..
Found it dribbles out the main barrel at the bottom of carb where a tiny hole is below the butterfly (which incidentally I learned should be essentially shut at idle)..
Just as throttle is applied and butterfly starts to open..the "transition slot" appears..this handles throttle transition fuel from idle to accelerate...

I had nothing coming out the idle circuit.

Used compressed air..same thing..

Started taking carb apart...

I noticed the gasket between base and bowl was very slightly off..
Covering a passageway...that I later mapped out to be the idle circuit...

So I pieced together the circuit blowing air through each component starting at the base where I knew the exit was.

I eventually proved each component was clear.

So I knew it had been blocked by the gasket that I had found offset that was blocking the mystery passage I later proved to myself to be the idle circuit.

Here are pics in case any future reader needs to know..mapping circuit up through the components..

38511

38512

38513

38514

38515

You can see how the gasket can be offset enough to block stuff and the carb will still go together
38516

simps80
08-31-2014, 05:22 PM
So that was problem one.

I put it together this time aligning gaskets with tiny screwdrivers long enough to make it through.

38517

Now before air horn went on i blow air through the asseembly to make sure it came through base..to reassure myself that the gaskets didnt shift. (I used a tiny bit of gasket adhesive on the widest parts to make sure)

38518.

Now..this was after I had eliminated all the possibilities. ..
I had capped brake booster and pcv...capped off emissions..
Done the carb cleaner dance around the manifold and carb base etc etc etc...

So I was Pissed!!# when I bolted my newly reassembled carb up and it still had fuel coming out main nozzle.....
One very notable delta was I could now affect idle with the mixture screw on the back..so I knew that was a resolved issue..there was fuel supply in idle circuit.
That was last night....

Today in a desperate act I was going to swap carbs with the old crusty one on the shelf...

So I took it all back apart..then happened to read Jeffs reply above to my stripping the carb stud post....

The bolts holding the manifolds together...hmmm...I never rechecked those...I knew the manifolds needed retorqued after the first time it got hot and cooled and I had done that. .
I had retorqued (and retorqued again) the manifold mounting hardware during this hunt for vacuum leak again as well
.even going 2 lbs tighter on each...
The misting of ether wasnt making changes in idle anymore..but there still had to be a leak cause of the fuel out main nozzle still..

The internal bolts holding the manifolds to each other.. I had never checked those..
So I took a wrench to those bolts and one of them was real loose...I mean real loose..
I had been surprised that since starting this that the mounting hardware took additional torque at least twice now...
So I should have thought to check the bolts between manifold but I hadn't. ..I had even pulled it apart to check for cracks between manifolds from heat riser even though mine operates perfectly... thanks for that reply jeff it made me think of that as a possible issue. .

Anyway ... tightened that up put on carb and it idles without choke...and for the first time..no fuel out the main nozzle!!!!
The idle screw at the base of the firewall side has intended effects now as well..

So it looks like its solved..now for some actual tuning...I can get over 15 inches of vacuum solid no bouncing now at 800...
So I should be able to adjust it good.

I even took a pic of it idling with no fuel out main nozzle lol...

38519

So yea the conventional wisdom held...
Half choke to idle..
Fuel out main nozzle at idle..
No effect on idle from mixture screw or idle screw..
Equals vacuum leak or idle circuit problem..
Mine was both..just couldn't detect the final (there were multiple) vacuum leak via normal method easily cause it was internal.

subzali
08-31-2014, 08:44 PM
Wow, way to work through the problem! That is some good troubleshooting!

simps80
09-04-2014, 02:23 PM
Thanks Matt!

fixing all those problems flushed out the next...

so here's where I am at now.

it will time and idle at 650.

on 4 cylinders.

I thought I was crazy not being able to find line or bb with timing light at 12 or even higher....

at 35!!!!!! it shows up...

would account for high heat....

it appears 5 and 6 are intermittent at best.

pulling 5 and 6 plugs reveal what appears to be oil fouled plugs.


putting the timing light on 1-4 the strobe is solid

on 5 and 6 its intermittent that it fires solid.

but it arcs from cap to ground or plug to ground on plug side.

so arc is good

but 5 and 6 have no effect on 'idle' when pulled.

so ... I think basically 5 and 6 are getting oil fould from pcv
that may be because of oil level being too high.
compression is good...
so I'm thinking of putting an oil separator in live with pcv .

vacuum is good and compression good and spark good
so only thing I can think is pcv is fouling 5 and 6 with oil.

was thinking of just venting to atmosphere for pcv ... but would like it to not have to do that ...

thoughts?

the compression is solid ... so I don't think oil fouling is from broken/bad ring...

any thoughts appreciated.

I know it will fail emissions as it sits even though it idles nice but wayyyyy toooo advanced....

just wondering what's oil fouling 5 and 6..gotta be pcv.....the pcv sucks HARRRDDDD with manifold vacuum.
don't think it could be head or rings with good compression plus head has so little oil to begin with...even if ALL the oil from the head was making it past a valve seal or 2 it wouldn't foul like this...

take a good plug brand new run it for less than 10 minutes its foulded...

mike came and f'd with it for a while and said, set it to 12, clean out cylinders vent pcv to atmosphere run it and see what happens...
gonna try that ...

any other input is appreciated

just don't think its coincidence that pulling 5 and 6 wires doesn't have obvious effect on idle and it runs fine with timing wayyy advanced...

gotta think 5 and 6 fouling is the culprit...but why

subzali
09-04-2014, 04:58 PM
You have the vacuum line on the dizzy disconnected?

Not off a tooth on the dizzy right?

simps80
09-04-2014, 05:10 PM
Yes and I don't think so

jps8460
09-04-2014, 08:50 PM
sounds like its time for a leak-down test.

subzali
09-05-2014, 11:38 AM
With brand new plugs do you get solid firing on 5 and 6? Trying to figure out if the weak spark is the cause of the plug fouling or the result of the plug fouling.

Distributor shaft not wobbly or worn, possibly providing poor "contact" with rotor and cap?

You could put a temporary catch can on your PCV line to see how much oil it is producing from that source. Mine produces enough oil vapor in my valve cover vent to the air cleaner that I end up with a puddle of oil in my air cleaner housing, but it doesn't foul plugs.

simps80
09-05-2014, 12:29 PM
With brand new plugs do you get solid firing on 5 and 6? Trying to figure out if the weak spark is the cause of the plug fouling or the result of the plug fouling.

Distributor shaft not wobbly or worn, possibly providing poor "contact" with rotor and cap?

You could put a temporary catch can on your PCV line to see how much oil it is producing from that source. Mine produces enough oil vapor in my valve cover vent to the air cleaner that I end up with a puddle of oil in my air cleaner housing, but it doesn't foul plugs.

it will fire for a short period of time and then they are fouled again
distributor shaft was solid, new cap, new rotor, new wires and plugs

i am just curious about the pcv doing it so I think I will do the catch can and see if it affects it. it sucks very hard, I still think its possible its sucking oil out and causing the plugs to foul...I'm hoping so...

if it still fouls then I guess I know what's doing it...but I don't want to actually even think about the possibility of something wrong in the cylinder right now
kinda why I don't want to do the leak down...but I will if cleaning it all out, catch can, new plugs, don't work..at least prove what I'm up against

Rzeppa
09-11-2014, 11:52 AM
I assume the PCV valve itself is brand new, right?

simps80
09-11-2014, 04:43 PM
Yes its new.
I did a compression test numbers were good 1 to 5 and zero on 6.

I can feel and hear compression but it must be real low.

Need to do some more work to determine if its head or cylinder.

A zero reading to me seems more likely to be valve related..I think rings would read low but not 0

Anyway kind of annoyed with the whole thing right now..so may be a while before I mess with it more..or I may just take iy to Robbie and ask him to make go fix

rover67
09-11-2014, 10:13 PM
do a quick leak down, throw air in that cyl. and figure out where it's going. could be a tight valve, if you had seats put in the head (not sure what they did when they rebuilt it) they can sink sometimes when it runs for a bit and leak. You can readjust and it will likely be fine if thats the case.

Dont freak out, you're almost there... zero means big leak which can be a good thing.... rings are probably fine as is head gasket.. probably nothing cracked.

Rzeppa
09-11-2014, 11:17 PM
I agree with Marco. Probably nothing too serious. Probably a valve issue.

simps80
09-14-2014, 10:53 PM
sounds like its time for a leak-down test.

And that's what I did today.

Got some good advice via pm and text last week.

I couldn't get a quickie air into cylinder rig going cause my compression tester that i was going to use for the spark plug hole fitting is one way air (as expected) but its both a schrader valve and what appeared to be an internal check valve so i couldn't convert it...so I went and picked up this leak down tester at napa

38646

Which btw while a higher quality tool than expected..it was kinda stupid how much it cost..sooo if any of you need to do a leakdown test in the future and dont have one...borrow this one and save the coin...it was kinda fun using it..tested all the cylinders a few times found same problem on 5 as 6 but intermittent which was strange....but that is too far ahead of the story....


I read a bit and watched a video on it then went to garage to determine if I screwed up the rebuild or if it was a valve or what.

The instructions were informative along with aforementioned electronic guidance from fellow rising sunners...

Gonna document the process and thought behind it for any future readers unfamiliar like I was

Basically..not tricky...
Fill cylinder at tdc compression with air and listen where it comes out thats the high level.

First though
-take dipstick out and pcv from side cover.
- Remove radiator cap.
- Open throttle up.
Once the tool is calibrated then put hose in head and hook ip to "air out" of tester.
-if there us signuficant leakage of air as heard or seen on gauge...
Start listening from where the air is escaping..

-if it comes back out intake (via carb) intake valve leaking is likely
-if air out exhaust pipe ..exhaust valve leaking
-if air through coolant (bubbles in radiator or overflow) then thats bad..possible head gasket or crack in coolant flow "circuit" (block/head etc).
-if air comes out adjacent cylinder spark plug hole then blown head gasket likely other cause invlude cracked cylinder wall or head I suppose.
-if air through pcv or dipstick then ring failure most likely

Soo..re-confirmed 0 compression on 6 was still the case..then hooked up leak down tester.

You have to "calibrate" it by hooking up air in then adjusting regulator until it zeroes out on the second "loss gauge" ..
My air pressure isn't high enough to get there but it was high enough for the test. .you can see it "calibrated" below with regulator full open.. now this is with nothing connected to the out (to cylinder) side.

38647

So this is what I found

j5jwOnq7J7g

So if that video is weird...basically 6 at tdc puked air out carb

This was a win for me...I was actually excited.. cause it meant I didn't screw up on the rebuild with rings etc. And the worst case was head comes off back to gunn for a bad intake valve not sealing...

simps80
09-14-2014, 11:01 PM
But it gets better...
These valves have been adjusted probably at least 5 times

But because it was easy..I just backed the intake on 6 way off to see what would happen.

This is what happened:
Here ia compression gauge on 6 after backing off intake valve that was leaking..

38648

105..that is in line with all the rest (cold and dry)

105 on 5
38649

Lowest 100 on 4
38650

104 on 3
38654

102 on 2
38652

105 on 1
38653

simps80
09-14-2014, 11:23 PM
Soo..
Extremely encouraged by this..
I grabbed the pile of oem parts to include new plugs wires and air cleaner and went about the businesd of getting it running to lash the valves again and tune the carb.

38655

I have said it before and we all know this...but the difference between oem and even top tier aftermarket on some of these parts is stunning.. I was amazed again at the quality difference between the oem wires and the TWO other non oem wire sets I have used during this process..they are perfect length come with loom brackets that when installed yield a perfect rams horn of groomed wires.
And they all "click" in perfect on both cap and plug side...

Ok anyway...

Put all that in....fired it up and could feel and hear an immediate difference.

Got it warm..rotated 1 tdc compression lashed 123579 then 360 for 4 6 8 10 11 12..got this memorized can do it in my sleep now...apparently some times more accurately than others...lol

Anyway it sounded real good and I will spare you the video of it running with the cup of water with ZERO ripples....i took that video because the contrast was so apparent..before at idle it was so rough it shook tools..heavy ones..off the fenders..the difference was amazing...

So I lean drop tuned for awhile then hooked up vacuum to see if I could tune to max vacuum for an emissions test this week feeling pretty good about it at this stage. ...

First shot no further work showed 17.5 unches if vacuum rock solid no quiver!!!! That was stark stark delta from before as far as zero movement of the needle and also a full 2.5 inches higher than before running at an 850 idle. 17.5 at 5300 feet is real good from what I have read.

This was at 650 rpm and 7 degrees timing (again for e-test)...sorry my phone was upside down...

lf_ucegOkOM

You may know how exciting watching a vacuum gauge is to me at this point...but if you don't. .let me tell you..I dont miss broncos games...I missed the broncos today doing this work and was very happy about it...this was extreme best case..I was putting this off fearing I screwed up on the piston rings..hoping it was "just" a bum valve job by gunn..and instead it was just too tight of adjustment...

And because she was so cooperative with me today .. I was no longer mad at her..so I loaded the family up and took her out for a dinner date....

38657

Kenon698
09-15-2014, 06:56 AM
Great job, Mike. Glad to hear that it wasn't anything major. Can't wait to go on a run with you.:)

subzali
09-15-2014, 07:18 AM
Woo hoo! Great news!

treerootCO
09-15-2014, 07:42 AM
Excellent work! I bet she screams on the highway now. :) fastest tractor on the road!

rover67
09-15-2014, 08:02 AM
SWEET!!!

Man I'm SO glad you got it going!!

It's gotta be the best feeling in the world!!

Congratulations, now go enjoy it!!

Jacket
09-15-2014, 10:17 AM
Excellent work! I bet she screams on the highway now. :) fastest tractor on the road!

Oooooo. FJ40 street races. I'm in!

Crash
09-15-2014, 10:28 AM
What a relief! Stress like that is not good for the system but what a rush of joy when the problem gets solved. Mike, let me show you how to set valves with a bump starter - this chapter of your rebuild would never have happened if you'd have known how to lash this way. Great job on keeping after it and working to solve an aggravating condition. :thumb:
Street races in stock motor 40s? If Jan, the woman who bought my red '77 earlier this year will let me borrow the truck, I'll be happy to take all of y'all's money! :D

subzali
09-15-2014, 10:51 AM
Oooooo. FJ40 street races. I'm in!

What a relief! Stress like that is not good for the system but what a rush of joy when the problem gets solved. Mike, let me show you how to set valves with a bump starter - this chapter of your rebuild would never have happened if you'd have known how to lash this way. Great job on keeping after it and working to solve an aggravating condition. :thumb:
Street races in stock motor 40s? If Jan, the woman who bought my red '77 earlier this year will let me borrow the truck, I'll be happy to take all of y'all's money! :D

In. And then we'll do 80 street races. Or FI 80/100 street races :D

simps80
09-15-2014, 01:46 PM
Thanks everybody!!
I am totally stoked

Steve I will take you up on that bump start lesson for sure!

Gonna try for an e-test probably today..
The temp tag they gave me for 100somebucks is good for 10 days...so gotta hustle

simps80
09-15-2014, 09:16 PM
38678

Done gonna go get plates!

Learned a lot today from Steve Crase on tuning...thanks for the lessons and the comradery!!

I have got a lot of mentoring and assistance and encouragement during this project..

Mike d
Steve
John
Ricardo
Jeff Zepp
Marco
Gary
Ige
Subzali
Ken d.

And others...

I am thankful for all of it!!

Its not like I am trying to give an oscar speech but I am pleased and thankful.

I will likely continue using this thread for updates as the project transitions ...


Thanks again

:risingsun