View Full Version : Aussie Locker Install
04-01-2012, 10:38 AM
So I have an Aussie locker and a stock 8" third member that need to be mated. I have no idea how to do that and can't seem to find a manual on their website anywhere. What the heck am up against and are there special tools? I understood this to be pretty simple but seems like I would have to remove bearings, pinion, etc. If the diff has to be disassembled, reset or shimmed then I don't see the advantage. I'd prefer not to have to replace the ring & pinion, bearings and all that.
04-01-2012, 10:41 AM
04-01-2012, 01:27 PM
Holy cow that thread looks complicated! I put mine in my 40 under the truck on the garage floor. Basically just slide out the axle shafts far enought to remove the spider and side gears, remove these, replace with the Aussie locker, take a couple of measurements, replace the axle shafts, put the back cover back on...and you're good to go. Don't have to do anything with the R&P. Romer had a thread with pictures from years ago. Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems like the Aussie install is really easy. I'll check around to see if I still have my instruction sheet.
Tommy the Cat
04-01-2012, 01:41 PM
Is it a V6 or 4 cyl. diff? I'm going to set one up next weekend and you are welcome to bring it by and I'll help you with it. It's not bad at all but the directions are a little intimidating. You don't need to take any bearings off and no shimming, either. The pinion doesn't get touched but the ring gear may need to come off on the 4 cyl. carrier. I have only done V6 rears but a bunch of IFS fronts where you have to remove the ring gear, but still not a big deal. If the diff is removed it takes me about 45 minutes to install one and set everything back up, about 30 for a V6.
I should also warn you that probably 50% of the V6 carriers I've worked on were trashed by the side-gear on the passenger side. I don't know exactly what causes it but they look like some kind of grit gets in there and scores the heck out of the carrier. I've bought cores from Jim's and had to search his whole stash to find one that wasn't chewed up. I've never seen that with a 4 cyl. housing.
Nattybumppo, the 8" stuff you have to take the carrier out and split if it is a V6.
04-01-2012, 03:08 PM
Plain old 8" 4-cylinder 4.10 solid axle third member (rear in this case). Just like it came off the boat except used. This is not installed in an axle yet.
Tom Cat - Awesome. Have to see if I can get up to Firestone, but I'm sure gonna try like heck.
Tommy the Cat
04-01-2012, 04:58 PM
I'll be home Wednesday through Monday night so anytime in there works for me. I possess all the tools and knowledge you require and I like doing that stuff. Just give me a heads up if your swinging up so I can make sure I'm around.
04-03-2012, 03:53 PM
My daughter had an 85 4runner with a lock right, and there were some differences between that and LC applications. For one thing, the c-clips are not in the diff, they are out by the brake backing plates. To slide the axles out you unbolt the brake backing plates from the axle housing. Another thing that was different was the cross pin is held in with a roll pin instead of a threaded bolt.
Tommy the Cat
04-04-2012, 11:24 AM
The IFS 7.5 is also held in by a roll pin. Do you remember if you had to remove the ring gear to get it inside the case? All of the IFS lockers I have done I had to but they have all been 4.56-5.29.
04-04-2012, 03:19 PM
I did not have to remove the ring gear. Hers was a 4.10 IIRC.
04-09-2012, 06:52 AM
Ring gear definitely had to be removed on a stock 4 cylinder diff. There was no way to get the cross pin out otherwise. We found that the carrier had to be filed to fit the locker through the webbing, the casting was just a little too small.
I was also reading this Tom, looks like we were supposed to put back in the side thrust shims, which we did not install. I'm assuming this is why the locker springs and pins seemed too short...
Good thing I ran out of time yesterday and never got it installed, since it has to be pulled apart. I might just clean up that other diff and just skip the locker route. I was hoping to get the axle assembled today or tomorrow since Sunday is the target day to swap them.
04-09-2012, 09:13 AM
I did a quick check on way out the door this morning, looks like both the shims in this diff are 0.067" thick (well, at least they both measure the same with my cheap calipers) and so might not be crucial that I no longer know which is right and left...
So anyone on the south side have time to walk me through disassembling and re-setting a diff? How about a shop that could handle this? I'm under the gun time-wise this week.
I'll have to do the whole shooting match: pull the bearing caps, remove the ring gear, remove and reassembly the locker, recheck the backlash. Tom set it for me and got backlash right at 0.005", but that was without the side shims. At this point since we did not mark the bearing caps originally and reset the backlash and preload, I'd need to do this right with a dial indicator.
04-09-2012, 09:42 AM
I'd be glad to help you but I'm heading out the door to California and don't get back until late Thursday. Sascha and/or Ricardo might be able to help though. Sascha has a dial indicator setup or you guys can use mine, the shop is available to you guys if you want to do it here.
04-09-2012, 09:46 AM
Also, the part about pulling the ring gear off to remove the cross pin is a new one to me. I don't know if it's the same issue, but when I've put big gears in other diffs in the past and run into this issue, the recommended route is to take a dremel tool and grind a little bit off of 1 or 2 teeth on the ring gear so the pin will slide out.
Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters turned me on to this technique. The amount of material you remove is fairly small and at the extreme edges of the teeth so apparently you don't have issues with weakening the teeth. Kurt says he has done tons of them this way and never had an issue.
04-09-2012, 10:45 AM
Thanks Randy, Tom is going WAY above and beyond to help me with this. I can't say strongly enough THANK YOU! Both of you.
We tried looking at it a few ways. There sure does not seem to be a way to get the cross pin out without grinding off a lot. With the V6 diffs this is not an issue of course. It sure didn't seem like a little off was gonna do it.
04-09-2012, 11:16 AM
I wouldn't grind that much off.
Tommy the Cat
04-09-2012, 11:40 AM
Dave I'm not going way above. It was my goof, my head was elsewhere and I must fix it. I will have it back to you tonight.
I encourage anybody in the area to swing by and throw rotten produce at me when I pick this up to help drive home the point of not being in a hurry.
Thank you Dave for being so cool about it.
04-09-2012, 12:00 PM
I don't think publicly hashing this out is necessary, but seriously Tom, you were doing me a HUGE favor. My lack of prep put me in a bind of asking for help, that's not your problem. But you are making it your problem and that demonstrates a lot. You're the one who gave up a Sunday afternoon working on my junk.
Honestly, when ARE you opening that custom hot rod shop? :-)
04-09-2012, 08:30 PM
Yep, from the picture that would require removing way too much material. On the FJ40 diff, imagine if the pin was about 3/4" higher than what you see there now. You would only have to grind a little bit off of those 2 teeth to make it come out.
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