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Jacket
04-12-2012, 12:41 PM
Anyone know if you have to separate the hub from the rotor on the rear wheel to replace the studs? This is for a '96 80 with a FF axle. I need to do all 6.

corsair23
04-12-2012, 04:05 PM
My guess is yes, removing the hub is the "proper" way to do it :)

I don't recall if there is enough clearance with the hub installed to knock the studs out but I'm thinking not...

.

Uncle Ben
04-12-2012, 04:13 PM
80 rear rotors are loose fit so they can be pulled off the hub. I would guess you could get the studs out without pulling the hub....not positive though....

Jacket
04-12-2012, 05:35 PM
Alright then. I guess I'll have to pull the rotor/hub and figure it out.

Rzeppa
04-13-2012, 11:46 AM
I had a nearly identical setup on my 1997 HZJ75, except it had drums instead of disks. I used to replace those studs fairly often because they'd loosen up and shear, and my dowel pin holes weren't tight.

Basically, I'd just slide the axle out and replace the studs. No need to even take the tire off.

If there was enough thread left after they sheared I could usually grab onto them with vice grips and back them out, otherwise I'd drill them out with a left handed drill bit. About half the time the bit would catch enough to spin them out. If it didn't, then I could just keep going up in bit size until I could chase the threads with a tap.

Now if they aren't sheared and you are replacing them for some other reason, it is super easy to just double nut them and back them out.

That reminds me, I came across a couple of spare FF adjuster nut locking screws that were for that HZJ75, same part as used in an 80 or LX, if anybody wants them I'll be glad to see them go to a good home. The FF on my FJ45 is of a different design.

Uncle Ben
04-13-2012, 12:58 PM
I believe he is talking about wheel studs not axle drive studs Jeff.

I had a nearly identical setup on my 1997 HZJ75, except it had drums instead of disks. I used to replace those studs fairly often because they'd loosen up and shear, and my dowel pin holes weren't tight.

Basically, I'd just slide the axle out and replace the studs. No need to even take the tire off.

If there was enough thread left after they sheared I could usually grab onto them with vice grips and back them out, otherwise I'd drill them out with a left handed drill bit. About half the time the bit would catch enough to spin them out. If it didn't, then I could just keep going up in bit size until I could chase the threads with a tap.

Now if they aren't sheared and you are replacing them for some other reason, it is super easy to just double nut them and back them out.

That reminds me, I came across a couple of spare FF adjuster nut locking screws that were for that HZJ75, same part as used in an 80 or LX, if anybody wants them I'll be glad to see them go to a good home. The FF on my FJ45 is of a different design.

powderpig
04-13-2012, 09:25 PM
I have replaced all the wheel studs before on customers rear hubs with out removing the hub. It is a matter of beating out the old studs and then installing the new stud with a big nut or sleeve thick enough to act as a spacer(to fit over the stud with out binding with the stud), and having a bit of a taper to not totally destroy the lug nut. Or using a nut that has no taper against a thick washer with some grease(yes grease does help some prevent heat build up and gauling). then having a couple of lug nuts that you do not care about to act as the drawing agent(meaning you use the old nuts as a way to draw the stud into the hub flange).
Not too hard really. Just time consumeing. but usually quicker then taking off the hub and getting dirt into the hub and having to do a fresh wheel bearing repack.

Jacket
04-14-2012, 10:59 AM
Thanks all. It was pretty easy. Remove tire, remove the caliper and the caliper mount doohicky, pull off brake disc to expose the hub. There is plenty of room to knock out the old studs without much trouble. But there isn't enough room to beat in the new studs, so I used a open ended lug nut turned around (taper side out) threaded onto the stud with a flat washer, and tightened it against the hub to pull the new stud through. Back in bidness.

Uncle Ben
04-14-2012, 02:20 PM
Thanks all. It was pretty easy. Remove tire, remove the caliper and the caliper mount doohicky, pull off brake disc to expose the hub. There is plenty of room to knock out the old studs without much trouble. But there isn't enough room to beat in the new studs, so I used a open ended lug nut turned around (taper side out) threaded onto the stud with a flat washer, and tightened it against the hub to pull the new stud through. Back in bidness.

Much mo betta way to install studs! Beatin' 'em is not da gud wayz!