View Full Version : Davinci Wing Awning
04-18-2012, 03:57 PM
Just a catchy name to get your attention. :)
I REALLY dig the foxwing awning, the price....not so much.
So, I also like to work on "inventions" that never seem to get beyond paper, so there you have the "davinci wing" awning.
Foxwing is patent pending, so in no way am I currently looking to produce something like this. It's really just a "hey, I have half that stuff lying around and I like making junk for fun" kind of project.
Since most of you have upgraded to synthetic winch line, bet you have a roller fairlead laying around, don't you?
04-18-2012, 03:58 PM
Take that old fairlead apart, and mount it up in the bandsaw and slice it right up next to where the vertical rollers are supported.
Wind up with this:
04-18-2012, 04:00 PM
Now, you will have to clearance the upper portion a bit. This will likely be trail and error to get the right fit, so don't take too much off this yet.
You will also want to pop out the roller and mount that up in the bandsaw as well. Slice it into 4 EXACT pieces.
You will wind up with this:
04-18-2012, 04:05 PM
You have a stack of thin wall steel tubing laying around right?
Great! Cut 4 equal pieces about 3" long. Wait....did I remind you to measure your exact fairlead model for height? Nope? Okay, this is where the design gets interesting. At this point, you have to decide on whether your "sleeves" will be an inny or an outy. I'm leaning towards an inny...which means these will be inserts for the fly rods. This will allow the diameter of the aluminum rods to be as large as possible and still fit inside the height of the roller.
Now that you worked that out, clamp those 3" pieces up in your drill press and run a 1/4" drill through them about mid point.
Wind up with this:
04-18-2012, 04:10 PM
Now that you have resolved your particular design based on your fairlead and have cut your rod holders, grab that trusty welder.
Caution: Rollers are likely coated with nasty stuff you don't want to breathe while welding.
Weld each rod holder onto one section of the roller you sliced. You want to push the holder in enough to get a bead on both sides.
Wind up with this:
04-18-2012, 04:13 PM
Go ahead and open that sucker up. The top roller slice will open a full 270 degrees until it rests against the roller brace. This is where the fine clearancing takes place. Take your fly rod into consideration (in or out design) when shaving the final bits off the stop.
You should wind up with this:
04-18-2012, 04:28 PM
So now we have a nifty foundation, but the next step involves making some decisions. I don't want to sew too much on this project, so the frame I will build out of aluminum angle will need to fit the bag. This one looks like it will work nicely and it's 180cm long (about 6') http://www.ebags.com/product/athalon/single-ski-bag-padded-190cm/80940?productid=1038281
Or maybe this one: http://www.ebags.com/product/athalon/double-ski-bag-padded-180cm/80941?productid=1038283
The trick is finding one that the zipper goes all the way around enough to let the awning fold around.
04-18-2012, 05:00 PM
Now that we have our bag for the basis of design, I see that the bag is 74" long, so I will start with the frame at 72", but we may need to trim a tick off the end before it's all done.
Take some 1-1/2" aluminum angle and drill some mounting holes on the back side. Don't forget to avoid the "flange" on the other side of the winch roller support. Be sure to get these holes lined up top to bottom, as they will be the basis for securing this to the rack.
Note: You need to notch the aluminum to match your "stop" for the upper pivot.
You should wind up with this:
04-18-2012, 05:13 PM
The opposite end should be far simpler in design. While I dig how the poles snap in on the Foxwing, this one will likely just have a velcro band secured on the back side where the aluminum frame bolts together. We'll revisit that later.
Here's an overall shot:
04-18-2012, 05:28 PM
So for the purposes of the model, I'm drawing these as fitting inside the sleeves we welded to the fairlead slices. Really, it is probably the better design as it allows for some room for the material to go over the rod and not bind with the rod below. I've never seen a foxwing in person or even up close in photos, but I would guess this is what they did as well.
Cut four "rods" just shy of 6'. Drill 1/4" hole about an inch from the end of each one. Orient the holes you just drilled so they are top and bottom. Now take the non-drilled end and insert it into the sleeves. Mark the hole locations, drill, and then insert a 1/4" clevis pin. Obviously you will need to clearance these holes a tick to get it to go on cleanly.
I like the idea of being able to remove the "rods" easily, but at this point, I don't suppose it really matters unless one of them gets bent and you need to pull it out and toss it in the truck to get home.
You should be looking at something about like this:
04-18-2012, 05:32 PM
Here's where we are now with the whole thing open:
04-18-2012, 05:48 PM
Bracing: So the foxwing has poles that brace the whole wing for "high" wind applications. I assume they are height adjustable, but if they aren't they should be.
Here's a sweet one for about $10
Might have to look into something cheaper and thinner. In the current design, there is room between the aluminum frame and the rods when they are folded in (about 3/4"), such that some "quickfists" or similar would allow you to store these poles along the frame when not in use. Hmmm.... I think I would rather use the tiny 1/4" or so folding poles that come with most tents. They would be adjustable to a point, but maybe too flexy to do much good.
04-18-2012, 06:10 PM
Weight? Seems like that would be real heavy :confused:
As for "support legs" - it would be slick if you could cut the legs out of the square tubing and have it swing down when needed, and swing up and lock in place for storage/transport
04-18-2012, 06:41 PM
I thought about that as well but don't want anything that laborious to make. I could mount them on the side though. Either that or just slide them inside when not in use. This might drive me to stick with the other mount design where the rods sleeve over dowels welded to the winch roller. That would make the inside dimension of the rod able to be larger.
As for weight, at this point 90% of it is aluminum. Just the half roller, dowels, and bracket are steel.
04-18-2012, 08:40 PM
I like the idea of having everything attached. I need to figure out a bolt/threaded rod to go in the tip so it's adjustable. Hmm...maybe too heavy. Anyway, here's the idea. Quick pin on the end in case you need to remove it. Not needed? Just leave it folded up. Need it? Unclick and swing it down.
This design changes my idea of how to attach the canvas, but that's easily fixed. I figure a "flap" with snaps on it that attaches to the side opposite of where the folded up leg is. Again, with the idea being that you can take this apart at any point and replace/fix w/o having to break the whole thing down.
Up and Down:
04-18-2012, 10:24 PM
Makes me wonder what foxwing actually patented. This one is another take on the same concept, but with more coverage on the one side.
05-07-2012, 09:45 AM
This was a fun exercise, but as mentioned in the beginning of this, the idea is now dead. I had a nice long week of using the ARB 2500 awning that I bought, and looking at all the "radial" awnings that were out there. For the price, the 2500 is nearly impossible to beat. I also got to lay eyes on the new EziAwn batwing, and it's design is pretty clever. The legs drop down out of the spreaders, and the spreaders double stack so the profile is kept lower than the foxwing. A better design in my mind....but all but one really lack shade needed in Moab. I found the 2500 produces a more usable block of shade for four people than a foxwing design, though I LOVE having the back door shaded. I will have to look into a solution for that, but easily enough solved with a $40 roll up movie screen from amazon. :)
vBulletin® v3.7.1, Copyright ©2000-2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.