View Full Version : Any special issues for Fuel Pump Replacement?
05-10-2012, 05:08 PM
1984 Toyota SR5, believe it has the 2.4L 22R engine
I'm going to help a buddy replace a fuel pump this weekend on the above truck. I understand it is located in the tank, and so I"m assuming it must be an electric pump?
Anyone done one before, and if so are there any special issues to be aware of here? I think it should be straight forward, but have never worked on a pickup before, so who knows...
Thanks in advance!
05-11-2012, 09:20 PM
should not be to bad if i remember right, it's been about 12 yrs. i think you just need to loosen the tank straps and drop the tank, watch the wiring though, and hopfuly the tank is not full, gets pretty heavy.
05-12-2012, 01:30 PM
Thanks! Supposedly only a couple of gallons, so fingers crossed.
05-12-2012, 08:48 PM
Success! It was pretty easy & straightforward, but I'll try to write it up here, just in case it's helpful for someone in the future.
BEFORE DOING ANYTHING, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. I DON'T KNOW IF IT MATTERS, BUT ELECTRICAL INSIDE THE GAS TANK SEEMS DANGEROUS IF THE BATTERY WAS CONNECTED!
1. Jack up back end of truck, chock/jackstands & all that.
2. remove 3 12mm bolts at front of tank, holding on the small skidplate (ease of access to the tank).
3. Remove 6 12mm bolts (3 at the front & 3 at the back) to remove the tank. The tank is held in by bolts to the frame/mounting brackets instead of straps.
4. Drop tank down, remove two hose clamps from the fuel inlet & vent. Once those two hoses are out, the tank drops all the way flat on the ground & is easy to manage.
5. Disconnect plug that holds the power/ground to the pump.
6. remove 6-8 small bolts (8mm if I recall, but maybe 6) from the top cover of the fuel pump access, pull whole pump assembly out.
7. remove pump from assembly. The neg. & pos. cables are 8mm & 6mm posts/nuts, so you can't really confuse them, but the pump is also labeled neg/pos. so you can look for those as well. The ground wire just bolts to the assembly right next to the pump, so it is easy to know which is whicy. Then one small pinch style hose clamp & the pump comes out.
8. Install new pump (reverse of step 7). Mike's new pump came with a new hose/pinch clamps, and lock washers/nuts for the terminals.
9. Basically at this point, just reverse everything for installation. Not too tough.
Oh, we also disconnected the fuel line 7 one vent hose frm the top of the gas tank, for ease of access. It was only two hoses, one front & one back, with fuel in one. But we still labelled them, just in case.
The worst part was lifting the tank back in because it turned out it still had 6 or 7 gallons of fuel, so it was heavy. Once it was all back together, cranked for a couple of shakes & it started right up. But that truck was EFI, if you were carbed, I would think it would take some gas down the carb to get it running (just a guess though).
My friend Mike was all smiles to get his truck running again, because it has been sitting for over 8 months now! Pic of truck below, just for fun.
05-12-2012, 09:53 PM
i beleave if it were carbed it would have a mechanical pump. sounds like it went pretty good, good job.
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