View Full Version : alignment shop
07-26-2006, 01:47 PM
Anyone know of a good cruiser alignment shop in northern colorado?
07-26-2006, 02:10 PM
Do you have a 100 series? If not many will suggest to just DIY, as there's only one adjustment (toe-in).
07-26-2006, 05:16 PM
Its an FJ62. I will search mud for the DIY method. Thanks.
07-26-2006, 09:14 PM
Here's what I'd do:
Jack up the truck & support on jack stands so each front tire is only about 1" off the ground. Then put a strip of duct tape around the center of each tire, or wide masking tape. Then spin each tire, and hold a sharpie against the duct tape to draw a thin line all the way around.. brace the sharpie agaist a 2x4 or something so it doesn't move sideways, but do allow it to move in and out a little to compensate for any out of roundness of your tire.
then measure the distance between the lines in front, distance in back, and compare. I think the ideal setup is right around 1/4" less in front than in back, perhaps an expert could chime in to correct me if I'm wrong. The adjustment is made on the drag link, which is the bar that connects the two wheels together. Not the tie rod that connects the PS tire to the steering arm, that's where you adjust how centered your steering wheel is.
That's the simple version, I'm sure it can be more complex than that.. hth!! :cheers:
07-26-2006, 11:14 PM
Wow Tim! You might've saved me about $65! :cheers:!
07-27-2006, 10:45 AM
Semantics: The drag link is any rod that connects to the pitman arm. The rod that is adjusted for toe-in is called the relay rod; it relays between one steering arm and the other. Going by memory, I believe factory toe-in should be around .1", but a quarter inch won't hurt, especially with larger than stock tires. There is also a spec for the relay rod adjustment length, from the center of the TRE to the center of the other TRE, which will give the correct toe-in. I don't have the FSM in front of me, otherwise I'd post it up.
Hint: before attempting to rotate any tie rod, spray some penetrating oil on the threads first. They are always hella-rusted. Heat with a torch if necessary to get the rust freed up. Also, I have found that a big honkin' screwdriver in the groove turns the rod more easily than a big pipe wrench on the OD does.
07-27-2006, 11:25 PM
Hint: before attempting to rotate any tie rod, spray some penetrating oil on the threads first. They are always hella-rusted. Heat with a torch if necessary to get the rust freed up. Also, I have found that a big honkin' screwdriver in the groove turns the rod more easily than a big pipe wrench on the OD does.[/QUOTE]
My tie rods are fairly new, and I remember replacing them. I had to get them glowing red hot and used a 4ft cheater bar to get them to move. And that was after soaking them in oil.
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