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View Full Version : FZJ80 very slow to crank


Jacket
09-10-2012, 12:20 PM
Over the last couple of days, the 80 has been very slow to crank. When I turn the ignition, I get a very slow, laborious crank for around 2-3 seconds, and then it "catches" and fires up. It sounds like what you would hear when you have a dying battery, except the battery is fully charged and is showing 12.4V on the meter.

Does this point toward the starter as a potential problem area? I replaced the contacts and plunger around 2 years ago with OEM parts - otherwise it's original.

Other things to consider? I haven't tried swapping in a new battery (just to ensure I'm not getting a false positive on the one I have), and I haven't tried hooking my battery up to another car (like a jump) to see if I get a better response. I'll try these steps out tonight.

And FWIW I did some winching on Saturday to pull up a couple of stumps from my yard. Truck was off at the time, and we just did some quick pulsing of the winch to break the root ball free.

:beer:

60wag
09-10-2012, 12:35 PM
I bet it's the battery. Read the voltage when it's cranking.

Uncle Ben
09-10-2012, 01:16 PM
I bet it's the battery. Read the voltage when it's cranking.

x2 but also check the amp draw when cranking. My "shoot from the hip" guess would be a cell or two dead in the battery. Dirty lead terminals (+ and -) and or loose connection can also have the same effect.

SteveH
09-10-2012, 03:32 PM
Some FZJ starter repairs don't last more than 2 years, depending on how the parts wear. But, suspect a bad battery cell first.

60wag
09-10-2012, 03:40 PM
If a cell was bad in the battery, you wouldn't measure 12.4V at rest would you? Depending on the voltage dip while cranking, you might be able to point to a dirty cable connection or the battery itself. In my experience with replacing starter contacts in the solenoid, it either works or doesn't make contact at all, I've never had a slow crank due to pitted contacts.

Uncle Ben
09-10-2012, 03:59 PM
If a cell was bad in the battery, you wouldn't measure 12.4V at rest would you? Depending on the voltage dip while cranking, you might be able to point to a dirty cable connection or the battery itself. In my experience with replacing starter contacts in the solenoid, it either works or doesn't make contact at all, I've never had a slow crank due to pitted contacts.

You can have a battery that fails a load test but still measures 12v!

wesintl
09-10-2012, 05:05 PM
Definatley.. I had a deka that dropped a cell, could still start but became weaker and weaker.

I think the replacement they gave me dropped one too..(sold the truck though) It was getting harder and harder to start. I'm about done with dekas now too.

Jacket
09-10-2012, 07:33 PM
Hmmm - Ok. More focus on the battery. So I got home, cranked it once and it started after a very weak crank. Second try it tried but eventually died to a click, click, click. I then joined in my 2nd battery, and it didn't make a difference.

Then I basically pulled the terminals and inspected, wiggled a few wires, checked the wires coming off the starter, and put everything back together, and it fired right up. Voltage was 11.something at crank. I then did it several more times with no issues - weird.

So I don't know what that means - maybe the battery is fine and I had a loose/bad connection. But all the connections looked clean and tight. Have you ever seen a degrading battery sort of come back to life for a bit? Seems like once a cell goes, it just heads south from there....

Corbet
09-10-2012, 09:09 PM
Measure the voltage drop at the starter. You should not see much difference between there and the battery. If you do you have a bad connection or cable somewhere. I had mine go bad right at the alt a few years ago. Visually it was fine but pull back some insulation and it was rotted out bad.

But I'd also have the battery load tested.

TIMZTOY
09-10-2012, 11:41 PM
Battery
But also check for Any loose connections