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Rzeppa
10-29-2012, 08:10 PM
Those of you who were on the Jenny Creek work run this past August remember that I slid sideways into the end of a downed tree. I crunched my right rear QP on my wagon (freshly painted of course). Here's what it looked like right after it happened:

Rzeppa
10-29-2012, 08:15 PM
I took it to several body shops and got a bunch of "No-Bids". One place had a sub they called "The Maestro" who was incapacitated due to recent surgery, they said he was the only guy they knew of who could touch that kind of work. It seems most places just want to bolt a new, factory fender on. Of course on our 25 year old rigs, those are made of unobtanium, and used ones are typically rotted out pretty badly. So I decided to tackle it myself.

The first step would be to cut out the mangled section. I drilled out the spot welds on the pinch lip at the bottom, and used a cutting wheel on the rest. Here is what it looked like after I had sand blasted all the edges, the inside and outside, and put a coat of zinc primer on the bare metal.

Rzeppa
10-29-2012, 08:19 PM
The next step was tricky: try to pound the old piece back as close as I could to it's original shape. I used an anvil for part of it, but found a chunk of firewood that had nearly the right radius to get the original curves back.

Inside, and outside, respectively after pounding, grinding and sandblasting.

Rzeppa
10-29-2012, 08:58 PM
The next step was to weld up the panel back in. FJ60 sheet metal is thinner than older FJ40 sheet metal, and it took a couple of blasted through holes to get the welder dialed in. I ended up using the lowest voltage setting.

It was also tricky to make sure I didn't start any fires on the inside of the cavity - it sits right under the fuel filler neck and all the separator hoses! :eek:

There was quite a bit of metal missing from the right side of the panel.

Rzeppa
10-29-2012, 09:02 PM
I got all the welds ground down flush, but was still trying to figure out what to do with the fender lip on the right. I decided that I needed to add a new strip of metal there, and cut the edge smoothly.

Speaking of new strips of metal, not shown, I added a strip to the back of the lip at the bottom for the welds through the holes where I had drilled out the old spot welds.

Rzeppa
10-29-2012, 09:04 PM
Here's that new piece, next welded in, then with the welds ground flush.

Rzeppa
10-29-2012, 09:05 PM
I sprayed a quick coat of primer on the bare metal to keep it from flash rusting and called it a night.

Rzeppa
10-29-2012, 09:07 PM
Next comes the time-consuming part: Bondo, sand, repeat. The first application was to fill the gaps.

Rzeppa
10-29-2012, 09:11 PM
The second Bondo application was to start smoothing things out and get the original shapes back. Those little marks at the lower left of the panel are from the pien end of the ball pien hammer when I was pounding the curves back from the back side.

Man there is a lot of sanding in body work!

Rzeppa
10-29-2012, 09:16 PM
3rd go-round of bondo and things are starting to really get back to the original shape. Again, more sanding. I took it down to Kittredge Auto Rebuilders this evening and they (rightly) felt I had at least one more layer of bondo before it will be ready for paint. The last picture is a visitor in the back yard while I was coming upstairs to watch the Broncos demolish the Saints after doing that last bit of sanding.

subzali
10-29-2012, 09:50 PM
Nice work Jeff! Looking great!

euroford
10-29-2012, 09:55 PM
nice work! i'm envious of the sandblaster, i could have really used one of those for similar projects (also from that same day, go figure). I guess you have no way of getting to the backside, but i had great luck with a copper bar behind the sheet to help with the welding.

nattybumppo
10-29-2012, 11:14 PM
That's quite a rack on your "peanut gallery".

SteveH
10-30-2012, 09:26 AM
Jeff - that reminds me so much of the metal repair on my 1980 FJ. Keep going! And when you're all done (after final paint), drown the back side of that cavity with axle grease. Water will get in there and it will rust out, if not well protected on the back side.

Jacket
10-30-2012, 09:35 AM
Looks great Jeff! That's a tricky spot to repair.

DaveInDenver
10-30-2012, 09:48 AM
Looks like a lot of work, it will look great in the end I'm confident.

FWIW, I had a rocker panel fixed on my truck a couple of years ago. I'd crunched it on rocks being stupid without sliders. I found a shop willing to try because I was pretty explicit that my goal was superficially cosmetic but more rust and weather (the door didn't seal right anymore), so I wasn't looking for Concours d'Elegance here... I had a couple of creases but it wasn't quite as wrinkled as yours, primarily just dented and collapsed.

So they opted not to cut any metal out but tacked on a whole bunch of studs that threaded into a slide hammer, which they used to do the reshaping. In the end they wanted to put on a skim of Bondo, which I told them was not necessary since my truck is just painted with old school Toyota no-clear coat enamel that hides flaws fine. It actually looked really good, at least until my sliders flexed into my rockers and dimpled them. :doh:

Rzeppa
10-30-2012, 06:51 PM
Jeff - that reminds me so much of the metal repair on my 1980 FJ. Keep going! And when you're all done (after final paint), drown the back side of that cavity with axle grease. Water will get in there and it will rust out, if not well protected on the back side.

The cavity is sealed - no place to put grease or anything else?

I sprayed all the bare metal surfaces of the cavity and panel with zinc weld-through primer before I welded the panel back on.

:confused:

Rzeppa
10-30-2012, 06:53 PM
So they opted not to cut any metal out but tacked on a whole bunch of studs that threaded into a slide hammer, which they used to do the reshaping.

I thought about how to do this repair - a lot. Among the thoughts I had was to do the slide hammer thing (I have one). Another was to drill a hole (or holes) in the backside to try to pound it out from the back side. But at the end of the day, due to the crinkling of the inner fender part, I decided to do the cut out the whole section approach.

I am an amateur and still learning as I go...

:rolleyes:

FJCDan
10-30-2012, 10:18 PM
Looks good Jeff

SteveH
10-31-2012, 09:22 AM
Jeff - my FJ60 developed a water leak around the fuel filler neck and had about 1 gallon of water sloshing around in that cavity. I removed the tiny rubber drain plug at the bottom and replaced the gasket around the filler neck.

I thought if if you removed the cargo panel on the inside, you could see part of the back side of your repair area. Maybe I have forgotten - I sold my 60 years ago.

rover67
10-31-2012, 10:03 AM
that cavity has openings in the bottom of it to allow water to get out. I always hit them with the pressure washer at the car wash to make sure they are clear.

It may seem counter-intuitive to shoot water into a spot you don't want rusting, but I think it is better to wash out the dirt that clogs the holes.

After a long week in moab tons of red dirt comes out in one washing.

Looking from the inside (the cavity can be seen from behind the interior panels) there is no rust in mine. I think ti works to keep them clean.

rover67
10-31-2012, 10:04 AM
I thought if if you removed the cargo panel on the inside, you could see part of the back side of your repair area. Maybe I have forgotten - I sold my 60 years ago.

yes this is true.

Rzeppa
11-01-2012, 06:47 PM
Jeff - my FJ60 developed a water leak around the fuel filler neck and had about 1 gallon of water sloshing around in that cavity. I removed the tiny rubber drain plug at the bottom and replaced the gasket around the filler neck.

I thought if if you removed the cargo panel on the inside, you could see part of the back side of your repair area. Maybe I have forgotten - I sold my 60 years ago.

I'll have to check - I do not recall any access to that cavity once it is sealed at the bottom, but I do remember looking up and seeing the back side of the rear speaker.

rover67
11-01-2012, 11:08 PM
Jeff, you can def. get to it. Is just a matter of removing the speaker panels. easy peasy. I am in there more often than I care to admit

Rzeppa
11-02-2012, 09:45 PM
Jeff, you can def. get to it. Is just a matter of removing the speaker panels. easy peasy. I am in there more often than I care to admit

That's good to know Marco, thanks. I hope to get another layer on this weekend and another sanding session, maybe even get it ready for paint. I talked to the guys down the street at Kittredge Auto Rebuilders and they were all down with paint as soon as it is ready.

One thing they did advise is that both Bondo and primer are porous and I shouldn't count on them keeping moisture out for very long. IOW, I need to get the good stuff on it to seal it up for the winter ASAP.

Rzeppa
11-09-2012, 09:52 PM
After Wednesday evening's meeting, I decided to try to get some progress done Thursday while the weather was still nice. The forecast for the weekend is for wintery weather.

So after I got home from work, I put a layer ("skim" as Dave related) to help even out the the surface - it was still somewhat dented.

Rzeppa
11-09-2012, 09:54 PM
Even though it isn't what the factory did, I have filled in the back side of the lip on the inside just because that area holds so much junk, it seemed like if it were filled it might have a better chance of lasting and not rusting from the inside.

Rzeppa
11-09-2012, 09:55 PM
I sanded the tips off with the 3M wheel. It was probably overkill, but dad gummit, I was tired of hand-sanding!

Rzeppa
11-09-2012, 09:57 PM
After the wheel, I came back and sanded by hand for about an hour. It looks like I will still need about one more bondo session, but it is getting more and more like the original shape.

Rzeppa
11-09-2012, 09:57 PM
Then another quick coat of primer until the next session.

farnhamstj
11-10-2012, 10:04 AM
:thumb:

Romer
11-10-2012, 11:36 AM
Nice work Jeff

Rzeppa
11-10-2012, 11:44 AM
Nice work Jeff

Thanks, Ken. Not as good as Oleg, but it looks better than when I started! :)

Rzeppa
03-14-2013, 10:25 PM
Picked her up from the paint shop today. That artifact at lower left is some kind of reflection, I didn't see it when I snapped the picture.

SteveH
03-15-2013, 10:00 AM
Nice repair! If you reinstall a factory mud flap, pack the fender-contact areas with axle grease first, and the underlying paint and bodywork will last longer.

AxleIke
03-15-2013, 11:31 AM
Looks awesome Jeff!

Rzeppa
03-15-2013, 09:51 PM
Nice repair! If you reinstall a factory mud flap, pack the fender-contact areas with axle grease first, and the underlying paint and bodywork will last longer.

The whole thing is getting covered with body armor which is part of the 4x4 labs bumper I built. I had to get this painted before I could put the bumper on because the armor covers most of the quarter panel, including the underside.

SteveH
03-16-2013, 07:57 PM
That'll be even better - please post the pix when ready.

Rzeppa
03-17-2013, 04:01 PM
That'll be even better - please post the pix when ready.

Teaser:

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=19275

My son is on his way over as I type this to help me mount it up. Man that sucker's heavy!