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OilHammer
11-28-2012, 01:27 PM
Anbody know if there's a better tool for removing the adjustable tie rod ends than the fork? Fork works well on the ends attached to the knuckle arms, but all it does is pop the other style apart and leaves the "ball" still stuck in the arm. That can't be good for the TRE either....

This is on the adjustable 60 series style ends that go on the drag link.

nuclearlemon
11-28-2012, 01:41 PM
Otc puller. Borrowed one at a friends, went to tool king or whatever r the big place in lakewood is and bought one before i went home

subzali
11-28-2012, 02:22 PM
tie rod end puller. You can rent one at Autozone. It's basically a rigid two-jaw puller with a screw.

OilHammer
11-28-2012, 03:22 PM
Really? You guys just "push" the threaded end through on that type? I have all kinds of gear pullers, but I thought you had to pop it from the other side instead of pushing it.

subzali
11-28-2012, 03:45 PM
Maybe I'm not understanding, but you're just trying to separate the rod end from where it's attached into a tapered hole (like on the pitman arm) right? You're not trying to disassemble the rod end?

I'm almost positive this will work: you put the ears on the pitman arm and push the rod end stud through with the screw - take the castle nut off first. Might need some gentle taps with a hammer once you have pressure on it.
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/grn/27022/image/4/

rover67
11-28-2012, 04:01 PM
I used what matt showed.

I tighten the crap out of it then beat the outside of the tapered socket with a hammer to pop it free.

Jacket
11-28-2012, 04:31 PM
x3. Mine still required a lot of BFE force to pop it free, but it was much more effective than the fork.

wesintl
11-28-2012, 04:50 PM
small sledge on the pitman arm around the tre ;)

Inukshuk
11-28-2012, 05:15 PM
TRE puller. Forks suck. Wear gloves and safety glasses and be prepared for a big pop when they separate. Or maybe it won't pop. But it might.

nuclearlemon
11-28-2012, 05:36 PM
this is the rod end puller i picked up...no need for bfh with this. just crank it down and it will pop the most stubborn ends free

L43dean
12-12-2012, 10:19 PM
OTC all the way. #7315. Straightfoward, solid, no damage. Made in Owatonna Minnesota.

spectre6000
12-12-2012, 10:52 PM
A puller is much more elegant than a fork and much less likely to result in mistakes. As with woodworking, processes resulting in loud noises (hammering in this case) rarely produce the best results...

OilHammer
12-13-2012, 09:25 AM
Yeah, the puller worked like a champ on that style. I never even considered that before, but it didn't take too much effort. I'm not a fan of the fork style, as they usually tear the boots. If you are replacing, that's not a huge issue, but not my favorite.

rover67
12-13-2012, 10:14 AM
OTC all the way. #7315. Straightfoward, solid, no damage. Made in Otumwa Minnesota.

can you provide a link to one?

is it this one?

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-7315a.aspx?utm_source=pricegrabber&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=OTC7315A&utm_campaign=pricegrabber_r1

wesintl
12-13-2012, 01:36 PM
As with woodworking, processes resulting in loud noises (hammering in this case) rarely produce the best results...


well, you can monkey with a puller or learn what the mechanics already know..
LDsci-izhhc

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azcromntic
12-13-2012, 03:57 PM
x4 on the puller thingy. When I didn't have the puller I just used a bigger hammer on the side of it combined with some penetrating fluid.

A bigger hammer and brass drift work well on CV axles as well instead of putting on the puller. put the drift right on the center of the axle. Don't hit too hard but a couple solid hits will loosen it enough it can be taken off by hand.

L43dean
12-14-2012, 06:57 PM
can you provide a link to one?

is it this one?

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-7315a.aspx?utm_source=pricegrabber&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=OTC7315A&utm_campaign=pricegrabber_r1

Yes thats it. I have the earlier model mentioned in the text. No adapters with mine either, none needed. I also have the pitman arm puller OTC #7314. Good for Hi Trac (IFS) idler arms.

DanS
12-14-2012, 08:21 PM
well, you can monkey with a puller or learn what the mechanics already know..
LDsci-izhhc


I want to go take apart a TRE right this instant! That's awesome!

Dan

Inukshuk
12-15-2012, 08:19 AM
well, you can monkey with a puller or learn what the mechanics already know..

:rolleyes: I'll believe that when I see it. I have never had a TRE come apart without a lot of force. But the puller worked great when I did mine last year.

rover67
12-15-2012, 09:21 AM
:rolleyes: I'll believe that when I see it. I have never had a TRE come apart without a lot of force. But the puller worked great when I did mine last year.

it works a treat dude. really does. I use this technique all the time, even when i use a puller too. It makes it to where you don't have to crank on it to get it out.

I like to put a smaller hammer on the TRE and hit it with a mini sledge. keeps me from having to aim too well.

TIMZTOY
12-20-2012, 07:37 PM
that is how mechanics remove tierods.. on every car.. I have only meet 1 or 2 mechanics that actually have the puller for tie rod ends and actually use them.. now pitman arms are a different story.. same method as the tierod. but using the puller first to load pressure on it, then hitting it is the beat way..
some cars or trucks take more than 2 hits some take 1, some take 15+

what I like to do is ALWAYS put the nut on the bottom few threads first so that if the hammer slips or your aim isn't 100% you wont fubar the tierod end threads, and you'll hit the nut.. also with that trick you can wack the spindle a few times, then tap up on the nut (simmiler to the puller putting pressure on it)