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View Full Version : Detriot True Trac or Lock Right in Front Diff??


Evrgrnmtnman
01-19-2013, 11:00 PM
Okay, so I bought a front diff off of Craigslist with a Lock Right Locker to replace the front diff that broke the axle shaft in the one I got with a Detroit True Trac inside it. SO, do I just put in the diff with the Lock Right Locker and call it good, or take the Detroit True Trac out of my old front diff and put it in this replacement diff??? Thoughts, opinions, advice???
Thanks,
CJ

Rzeppa
01-20-2013, 02:20 PM
Okay, so I bought a front diff off of Craigslist with a Lock Right Locker to replace the front diff that broke the axle shaft in the one I got with a Detroit True Trac inside it. SO, do I just put in the diff with the Lock Right Locker and call it good, or take the Detroit True Trac out of my old front diff and put it in this replacement diff??? Thoughts, opinions, advice???
Thanks,
CJ

For numerous reasons, I would not use any auto locking diff up front in any rig. I love my lock rights in the rear, but they do not belong up front IMHO.

Fishy
01-20-2013, 04:23 PM
Wouldn't an auto locking diff up front lock up anytime you turned hard and stepped on the gas? Bad things would happen, no?

Rzeppa
01-20-2013, 04:57 PM
Wouldn't an auto locking diff up front lock up anytime you turned hard and stepped on the gas? Bad things would happen, no?

Yes, they do. Seen lots of bad things happen with non-selectable lockers up front on numerous rigs. And even with power steering, it can be hard as heck to turn on slickrock, as in, really, really hard. Belt-squealing hard. Auto lockers (Aussie, Lock Right and Detroit) belong in the rear, not the front.

Evrgrnmtnman
01-20-2013, 05:18 PM
Sounds like I should stay with the Detroit Tru Trac.......

Rzeppa
01-21-2013, 09:17 PM
Sounds like I should stay with the Detroit Tru Trac.......

As long as you like breaking stuff...:rolleyes:

DaveInDenver
01-21-2013, 09:33 PM
As long as you like breaking stuff...:rolleyes:
And CJ did shear the short side drive stub in his diff... Makes more sense if he had a Tru Trac in it.

Fishy
01-21-2013, 10:14 PM
A Tru Trac doesn't have springs or plates, just gears right? So you need to apply the brake and the gas to get it to lock/engage?

Evrgrnmtnman
01-22-2013, 01:34 PM
And CJ did shear the short side drive stub in his diff... Makes more sense if he had a Tru Trac in it.
Are you saying that a Tru Trac is more enclined to break axle shafts than a Lockrite?

DaveInDenver
01-22-2013, 02:06 PM
Are you saying that a Tru Trac is more enclined to break axle shafts than a Lockrite?
It's better than an auto locker, but they are not fully transparent like an open diff.

My $0.02 is that selectable lockers are the only thing safe for front diffs on snowy roads. That's a personal thing, some people are comfortable with limited slips.

I decided to sell my Air Lockers because in the front especially it took up quite a bit of volume in the housing and didn't leave much room for lube (less than a quart IIRC). I don't do enough rock crawling to see the benefit of a front locker but do spend a lot of time in 4WD high and in 2WD with hubs locked.

Evrgrnmtnman
01-22-2013, 02:18 PM
It's better than an auto locker. My $0.02 is that selectable lockers are the only thing safe for front diffs on snowy roads. That's a personal thing, some people are comfortable with limited slips.

I decided to sell my Air Lockers because in the front especially it took up quite a bit of volume in the housing and didn't leave much room for lube (less than a quart IIRC). I don't do enough rock crawling to see the benefit of a front locker but do spend a lot of time in 4WD high and in 2WD with hubs locked.

Well, you have convinced me now that a Spool is the only way to go!:D

DaveInDenver
01-22-2013, 02:32 PM
Yeah, a spool is predictable...

My feeling for IFS is that a locker is needed for rock crawling to prevent blowing up CV axles but the other compromises didn't fit our use. But we haven't done much harder stuff since 2008 on the Rubicon, that trip got any remaining need to seek-and-destroy with the truck out of our system.

Evrgrnmtnman
01-22-2013, 07:10 PM
The other suggestion that came up was just lock one hub on the front???

Rzeppa
01-22-2013, 11:56 PM
I will put my $0.02 in. If this was my truck and I had to fix what broke I would either go with an an open diff in the front or a selectable locker like a stock Toyota electric or an ARB.

If it were my own rig.

Just sayin'

DaveInDenver
01-23-2013, 07:34 AM
He's got IFS still Jeff, so an Air Locker is the only option for selectable.
The other suggestion that came up was just lock one hub on the front???
What problem are you trying to solve doing this? The steering issue? You can run this way on trails to make steering possible, if that's your goal. What you'll have to do is get in and out changing one or both hub locks when you hit hard sections and hope you pick the right one that does not lift. Lifting the locked hub will be just like going back to 2WD with no help from the front end. Unlocking a hub with a Tru Trac wouldn't change anything, that's just like an open diff, so lock both. This is only something that you'd do with a locker or spool. It will wear out the diff faster, although I think alternating which side is locked will help.

On the highway it would probably make the steering unsafe. Open both or lock both hubs. Locking one hub will make the truck want to torque steer (sort of the opposite of both locked with a diff lock, which would make the truck /not/ steer), more so with a rear traction aid. If you don't have to drive the truck in the rain or snow, you could be fine, but there's no reason to lock the front hubs at all on dry pavement.

If you do it all the time it sorta defeats the purpose of a locker. The main reason IMHO to run a front locker is to reduce breaking CV axles and to give you that marginal increase in crawling traction. The rear locker is where you gain the majority of off highway benefit. The main downside to a rear locker is slick pavement and, of course, sharp turns. Slick pavement is solved by locking the front hubs and running in 4WD High (which I occasionally do even in the rain) and sharp turns are just adapting your driving style and rotating tires often.

A selectable locker is really the only way to go in the front, followed by an open. Any other way in the front just solves too few problems (as in specific trail spots) for being a PITA the other 99% of the time.

leiniesred
01-23-2013, 10:49 AM
I had both when my 4runner was IFS.

Tru-track up front= broke the short side inner just like you.
In the deep snow it it was better than open diff. On roadway snow it was OK too. A little harder to turn in 4x4 around town. In the rocks it was no better than open. Lift a tire and you might as well run an open diff. No. using the brakes didn't help lock it up. that is how I broke the inner short side output shaft.

Lock right up front = broke outer CV joint instead. In the snow it was fine as long as you only wanted to go straight and all your tires were equally worn out. Pretty sketch on roads in town and hard to turn in 4x4 sometimes. Deep snow was fine.

DaveInDenver
01-23-2013, 11:03 AM
I agree with Rudy, deep snow is the only time I miss a front locker and chains help overcome that.

If you're hard core crawling all the time you'd need a locker, but you will break lots of front end parts either way. That is why I say ARB or open in IFS, anything else is wasted money that should be going towards a solid axle if you're seriously crawling.

Evrgrnmtnman
01-23-2013, 01:16 PM
Just to add, I already have a Full Detroit Locker in the Rear and have loved it, even on the streets, just need to know when to let off the gas pedal. I guess the other issue is always money, and that is why a ARB seems to be not a option right now.. Most the time I don't have to use 4x4 with the rear locker anyway, only when it starts to snowing, so I guess just tread lightly with a front locker and don't speed around turns..Goes in Tuesday to Jesse at ATLR...