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nakman
02-02-2013, 03:34 PM
This clunk has been getting progressively worse for the past 3-4 months. It's to the point now where it should be obvious, but I can't seem to nail it down. It happens exactly once every time I drive the 100, unless there's lots of forward/reverse in which case I can get it to clunk each time the direction reverses. But only if gas is involved... if I just coast down the driveway it doesn't clunk, it's only if I give it some gas when hitting reverse.

So far I've checked:

-Driveshaft bolts
-Tires, lugs are tight
-Wheel bearings (no play when trying to wiggle tire)
-Brake pads (they look fine, and aren't cracked). they do however have a tiny bit of play, as if I could maybe fit one more shim behind them, but that wouldn't cause this clunk
-Caliper bolts - freshly tightened, and they were tight before. I really thought it was a loose caliper though, as that's exactly what this clunk feels like
-Sliders - Not interfering, and u-bolts are tight

will see if I can get some movies to upload... you should be able to right click, then save target as.

movie#1 (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/nakman/GOPR0362.MP4) from outside the vehicle
movie #2 (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/nakman/GOPR0363.MP4) from under the front bumper (sorry about the upside-down, I'm sure there's way to flip that but I didn't want to get into it)

60wag
02-02-2013, 04:02 PM
Wow, that's quite a clunk, or more of a snap? Do the motor mounts look healthy? Tranny mount? I like the videos.

nakman
02-02-2013, 04:15 PM
Yeah they look ok, at least the ones I can see.

What's peculiar is it's only one time.. after whatever is moving settles into its spot for either forward or back, you can drive 100 miles and never hear it again. Heck I drove 150 miles on Wednesday and only heard it once, when I was leaving the house for the first time, then once more when I backed out of my spot in Ft. Collins. It's only when you switch directions that you get it one more time. So if it were a bad motor mount, tranny mount, or even a loose u-joint or driveshaft or broken CV, I'd hear it a lot more than just once, right? :confused:

Corbet
02-02-2013, 04:51 PM
Have you checked all your suspension parts. Seems like a change in direction my cause a shock mount or link to resettle and clunk.

Squishy!
02-02-2013, 05:00 PM
I have heard brake pads make that noise. Driveshafts too. Try pulling apart the shaft and lube the splines.

nakman
02-02-2013, 05:06 PM
I did grab the shocks and try to move them, but couldn't. However they were fully extended at the time...

I've squirted grease into the DS zirks recently, but haven't ever pulled them completely apart. that could be it, thanks Justin I will try that, should do that anyway.

Romer
02-02-2013, 06:49 PM
I had a noise that Christo said was due to the sliders hitting the underside. They used a crowbar to bend up the metal above the slider mount. Think you used different sliders though

60wag
02-02-2013, 06:51 PM
How about a front axle joint?

Romer
02-02-2013, 06:57 PM
Also, my front drivers shock bolt came loose. Have you pushed down on the front end from both sides of the bumper? I finally lock-tighted it as it came losse a couple of times

MountainGoat
02-02-2013, 09:43 PM
My 80 had a clunk which behaved exactly like you describe. Turned out to be worn splines on the rear driveshaft, causing enough rotational play to clunk on change of direction under load. It was diagnosed and repaired by Bill at Bill's Englewood Driveshaft with a driveshaft rebuild. Hasn't repeated since.

Squishy!
02-02-2013, 10:32 PM
My 80 had a clunk which behaved exactly like you describe. Turned out to be worn splines on the rear driveshaft, causing enough rotational play to clunk on change of direction under load. It was diagnosed and repaired by Bill at Bill's Englewood Driveshaft with a driveshaft rebuild. Hasn't repeated since.

Yup that's the one. Nak you could remove the rear shaft, lock your center and see what happens. Or swap in a donor shaft.




That's what she said.

Jacket
02-03-2013, 07:57 AM
x2 on the cool video :)

I would toss in another vote for splines on the drive shaft. Each change in direction causes the splines to bind slightly due to wearing and/or lack of lubrication in the slip joint.

If you think it's coming from the front, then pull that drive shaft and do the same test. And then try the rear next if the noise is still there.

nakman
02-03-2013, 02:05 PM
Well I got my skid plates and front driveshaft off, and my clunk is unchanged. guessed wrong... :( will get it cleaned up and reinstalled, then tear into the back... stay tuned!

Squishy!
02-03-2013, 02:56 PM
Pullin for ya! :thumb:

60wag
02-03-2013, 04:48 PM
Bummer, I was betting on a front CV joint.

So how different is a 100 rear shaft from an 80 rear shaft?

nakman
02-03-2013, 05:03 PM
They both feel about the same heavy. But it's not the driveshafts... :( I spent the last 4 hours on this, had them both off, apart, cleaned splines, greased u-joints, put them back on and the clunk is completely unchanged. In fact it may be a little louder now, as I left my skidplates off until I figure this out.. hmm.

Check out how much grease I was able to squirt out the zirc hole on the rear... :o I only can take credit for maybe 6 squirts of that.

nakman
02-03-2013, 05:05 PM
You can literally feel it under your feet, just when you hit the brake. Two new videos... one from each slider

movie 3 (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/nakman/GOPR0364.MP4)

movie 4 (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/nakman/GOPR0365.MP4)

Squishy!
02-03-2013, 06:26 PM
I would say its gotta be the pads then. If you are only hearing it when you press the brakes when changing direction that is the only possibility left I can think of. How was your pinion play?

nakman
02-03-2013, 06:43 PM
So if I have too much slop in my pads, how do I get rid of that- bleed it? Or shove more shims in there?

Pinions seem fine, they didn't have any in/out play that I could feel.

Squishy!
02-03-2013, 06:48 PM
I would say its the mounting hardware for the pads. There are tension springs that help keep them centered and absorb the shock of directional change. It's possible it could just be at one of the pads. Wiser techs than I may have other ideas as well.

60wag
02-03-2013, 07:10 PM
The pad clearance should take care of itself, no shims needed. The single shim is supposed to be an anti squeal device.

Can you get it to clunk using the parking brake?

RockRunner
02-03-2013, 09:00 PM
I have heard brake pads make that noise. Driveshafts too. Try pulling apart the shaft and lube the splines.

X2 used to happen on my Silverado. it was totally dry in there and once I lubed the entire spline area it went away.

RockRunner
02-03-2013, 09:18 PM
How about a loose body mount? My Dodge does it too but it is due to the bushings wearing out. Have you checked the sway bar bushings? Curious to see what it is now, keep us posted.

rover67
02-04-2013, 07:47 AM
Sounds like a cv joint popping reeeealy loudly....

DaveInDenver
02-04-2013, 08:04 AM
I had a sound very much like that develop on the way to Rubithon. It was more periodic, totally speed dependent and was driveshaft related. Was not tough to fix (pocket knife) but was hard to diagnose until I got enough coffee on board to wake up.

It's probably not what you got there, though. I'd be going after brakes, CV, hubs. That sounds to me like the auto hubs on my old Ford Ranger engaging and disengaging. They'd pop to lock and pop when you backed up to unlock.

nakman
02-04-2013, 08:37 AM
It's gotta be the brakes. The only way to make it clunk is to hit the brake, the real brake, as it doesn't clunk if you stop with just the parking brake. It does squeak pretty good though. :hill:

I'm going to dig into the front calipers again tonight. Will post up a pic, just in case I'm not seeing anything obvious... appreciate the help! :thumb:

Caribou Sandstorm
02-04-2013, 09:04 AM
It's gotta be the brakes. The only way to make it clunk is to hit the brake, the real brake, as it doesn't clunk if you stop with just the parking brake. It does squeak pretty good though. :hill:

I'm going to dig into the front calipers again tonight. Will post up a pic, just in case I'm not seeing anything obvious... appreciate the help! :thumb:

I am no mechanic, as has been well documented...:), but when Robbie replaced my rotors and brakes last year, I thought there was something spinning in there that he said should not be, he fixed it with the new rotors or tightened it.. You might want to ping him and ask his advice? Originally, I was going to say rear diff but then you said you could feel it under your feet. Ujoints from drive shafts?

nakman
02-04-2013, 09:32 AM
I am no mechanic, as has been well documented...:), but when Robbie replaced my rotors and brakes last year, I thought there was something spinning in there that he said should not be, he fixed it with the new rotors or tightened it.. You might want to ping him and ask his advice? Originally, I was going to say rear diff but then you said you could feel it under your feet. Ujoints from drive shafts?

Let me see what I come up with.. I've got newer rotors & pads already, and :robbie: was the guy who put it all together, so I'm doubtful that I've got something else awry here. And it's not the front drive shaft, as I've already determined the clunk exists with the DS removed. And those u-joints are really greasy and happy now. :D

Jacket
02-04-2013, 09:55 AM
Interesting...I had myself convinced it was one of the drive shafts. Oh well. Now you've got piece of mind on two well-serviced shafts....

Maybe you should remove the brake calipers and see if it goes away. :eek: ;)

bomber22
02-04-2013, 12:38 PM
nakman, i'm having an issue with the wifes durango, clicking/clunking, some squeeling. i thought it was the front drivers side brake but the rotor and the pads look to be in good shape' then i thought front wheel bearing/hub. the noise went away for about 2 weeks and came back, i looked at the bake of the hub and all the grease had been pushed out. i got another new hub ' but the noise is still there, now i'm going to replace the drivers side cv drive shaft[ the one from the front diff to the front drivers side wheel].i'm hoping this is the fix for me mabye this is your problem too, the noise on the durango isn't there all the time either. upper\lower ball joints could be a posability too.

corsair23
02-04-2013, 12:45 PM
No help on the clunk but great videos :) - I should do that for my "tink" noise that has eluded me. Was it hot enough that you were running the AC? I assume that is just water drops from AC condenser in the last video.

Corbet
02-04-2013, 12:52 PM
Tim, have you checked all your shock bolts yet. I forgot to tighten up one of my fronts once and it sounded just like that. The big collared washer was shifting front to back with direction change.

nakman
02-04-2013, 01:46 PM
I did check the shock bolts, grabbed each shock and tried to move them, etc. They're tight... and they were "professionally" installed as well, for the record, that place in Golden? And I'm sensitive to that one as well, after my first front axle service on the 80 years ago I forgot to tighten one of the sides, and coming down Jones Pass I thought I broke something major, actually tore it down to the bearing on the trail looking for bits. Turned out I didn't have a top shock nut, and the post was loose inside the hole there.

The water is actually coming out of my exhaust Jeff, good catch. This was yesterday, no AC. But there's a joint in the pipe where that water seems to be dripping out. Sensitive to scope creep, we're focusing on the clunk for the time being.. :)

Having a hard time thinking this is CV-related. One of mine is new, or new within the past 2 years, and the other one looks to be in decent shape. Plus bad CV's make noise all the time, particularly when crawling, turning, etc. Plus, wouldn't the CV be out of the picture w/o a front driveshaft?

I'll tell you the question that I was thinking of in bed last night though- why does my front driveshaft have long splines to it? Beyond making it a little easier to install, what purpose do those splines serve? The front diff doesn't really move on IFS. :confused:

Fishy
02-04-2013, 02:52 PM
Tim, I'm gonna say it's a bad slip yoke. Under greased or grease may not have gotten to the splines.

bomber22
02-04-2013, 03:08 PM
i would think that the cv drive shaft will still turn being that the splined end is connected to the wheel bearing/hub, even if the ft drive shaft is disconnected.

bomber22
02-04-2013, 03:18 PM
i may have missed it somewhere in this post but, what side do you think it is coming from? and what side is the older cv drive shaft on? could it be that the cv joint is under a load when starting out either in fwd or rev and alians it's self when driving? i don't know for sure, just thinking.

Fishy
02-04-2013, 03:53 PM
Maybe I missed it......Did you say you removed the rear drive shaft, locked the front and still had the clunk?

Can you mount the GoPRO right on that cross member pointing directly at the slip yoke? I bet you'll see it bind just slightly, then release.

Or, can you reproduce the clunk by going forward and "panic braking" to a stop, and starting again? You'd have to really try and lock the brakes hard. If so, then that would be the slip yoke.

nakman
02-04-2013, 03:56 PM
I was able to replicate the clunk with no front driveshaft, but I didn't try it with no rear driveshaft. However it's pretty clear the clunk is coming from the front of the vehicle, on the driver's side, you can feel it in your feet. And with my longer commute now, I actually get to panic stop fairly frequently... and no, that won't produce a clunk. The only way to make it clunk again is to apply the brakes in reverse. Then you get 1 clunk, followed by a clunk the first time you stop moving forward again.

Fishy
02-04-2013, 04:19 PM
I think it's worth removing the rear driveshaft just to rule that out. That's a lot easier than tearing the front end apart.

Squishy!
02-04-2013, 04:25 PM
I'm confident (doesn't mean I'm right :hill: ) it's the pads sliding within the calipers. See if you can replicate it on jacks with the wheels off the ground or off the truck. That may help a lot.

60wag
02-04-2013, 05:01 PM
Is there any anti squeal grease on the backside of the front brake pads? That might help them move with less force.

nakman
02-04-2013, 06:48 PM
check this out

movie 5 (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/nakman/GOPR0366.MP4)

Doesn't that look like it's shaking an awful lot?

Alright here's another. the one above is alternating directions, on this one I kept going in the same direction a couple of times, to try to see a difference.

movie 6 (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/nakman/GOPR0367.MP4)

edit: I don't see a difference in shaking, nor can I see anything moving. Will go get one more vid from another angle, before my brake helper goes to bed.

edit2: here you go movie 7 (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/nakman/GOPR0368.MP4) Looks like I ran out of battery after just one clunk... not sure the rest of them tells this any different though

farnhamstj
02-04-2013, 07:15 PM
If it's not that brake pad.

I'm gonna guess. Rear axle upper control arms. Bushings are gone. ????

nakman
02-04-2013, 07:34 PM
I have new upper and lower control arms for the rear on the bench, but wanted to get this resolved before installing them. How though, when the truck is up on jack stands in front, would the rear axle even come into play? Same goes for any slider theories.. I'm back to thinking CV.

edit: I flipped the pads around, seeing as the inside one was worn further than the outside one. But it didn't make any difference. :(

Fishy
02-04-2013, 09:13 PM
Is it possible that the Evolution brake pads are just a touch smaller than OEM? Now that you've had them on for a while, more and more "play" is being noticed as they slide in the caliper?

Does anyone have a set of OEM front pads for you to try? If you didn't live so far away I'd say "stop over and lets swap pads real quick".

Romer
02-04-2013, 09:17 PM
Is it possible that the Evolution brake pads are just a touch smaller than OEM? Now that you've had them on for a while, more and more "play" is being noticed as they slide in the caliper?

Does anyone have a set of OEM front pads for you to try? If you didn't live so far away I'd say "stop over and lets swap pads real quick".


he he, then he could get the seats out of my basement. It was free to who wanted to carry them up :D from my basement. I also have a CV axle brand new OEM in the box. Not sure the splines are the same for a 99 vs 2004 as the front diffs are different

Fishy
02-04-2013, 09:26 PM
he he, then he could get the seats out of my basement. It was free to who wanted to carry them up :D from my basement. I also have a CV axle brand new OEM in the box. Not sure the splines are the same for a 99 vs 2004 as the front diffs are different

Tim.....That sounds like an offer.
Romers garage is nice and clean and there's probably beer in the garage fridge. I'll meet you over there. I'm off tomorrow and Wednesday. ;)

nakman
02-04-2013, 09:55 PM
I wish, guys. My days are too packed now, and without another vehicle I can't even swing dropping the 100 off to pay someone to look at it. Tonight was my last opening until.. Saturday.

edit: but that's not a bad thought Stan, I could just go buy some cheap pads at Autozone just to rule that out... if it still clunks just return them.

Fishy
02-04-2013, 10:12 PM
edit: but that's not a bad thought Stan, I could just go buy some cheap pads at Autozone just to rule that out... if it still clunks just return them.

That's exactly what I was just thinking. Worth the $30-40 to figure/rule it out. :wrench:

I got the top shelf NAPA pads last time I did mine. $60 or $70 I think. You could grab them, if it fixes it, then just leave the NAPAs in there.

EDIT: NAPA makes a decent Caliper Hardware Kit too. New shims, pins, spring clips, retainers.....only like $20-25 too.

corsair23
02-05-2013, 10:00 AM
Doesn't that look like it's shaking an awful lot?


Loving the videos :thumb:

On that last video you could see the spring moving and the outer shoe appears to move as well, especially when you were spinning backwards and the brakes were applied.

Did you isolate the "thunk" to the DS front though? The videos make the rotor appear out of round/not true but I'm thinking that is just an optical illusion due to the dirt etc. on the rotor.

nakman
02-05-2013, 10:13 AM
My best guess is it's DS, but not certain on that. The rotor is running true, as in I sure don't have any shaking when braking. I'll pick up some new pads, you guys can give it a listen on Wednesday. I also have a spare CV, I've never swapped one though so it's not something I'd try on a school night, but maybe Saturday if all else fails.

Caribou Sandstorm
02-05-2013, 11:06 AM
If it is Saturday, I might want to watch that...

nakman
02-11-2013, 10:28 AM
After further deliberation, and additional diagnosis by some of Toyota's finest, I've ruled out CV and am back to brakes. I have ordered what's referred to as a "shim kit," as well as new W springs, new pad retainer clips, new outer clips, and new pins. In addition to the new pads I picked up last week, this will be new everything except the calipers themselves. My sources say this should be all I need to remove this clunk... a lot of this is "special order items" so not sure when the box will get here, stay tuned.

here's your exploded drawing.

Fishy
02-11-2013, 10:52 AM
I know you're short on time for this fix. I think you'll lose that clunk once you replace all that, but I'd love to know if it was just ONE thing causing it. Like just one pad....

nakman
02-11-2013, 11:36 AM
We'll see how experimental I'm feeling when I ultimately get to this. I have a feeling that it'll be obvious, like something just isn't there.

60wag
02-11-2013, 11:49 AM
They are pretty specific where to apply the disc brake grease.

subzali
02-11-2013, 11:56 AM
It'll be interesting to see if that works Tim. My Tundra has a clunk in the front end when I hit cracks in the pavement. It goes away if I'm dragging the brakes a bit. Which makes me wonder if some of the same components (springs etc.) are either old or missing. I rebuilt the brakes though so I'm pretty sure all the components are there.

In your videos were you braking when the clunks were happening? You must have been, because you were slowing down in either forward or reverse and the rig would clunk. I would think that if you were on the brakes there wouldn't be any room for movement in and around the calipers.

nakman
02-11-2013, 12:34 PM
Activating the brake is what activates the clunk. It won't happen unless you hit the brake, then clunks only once per direction. Is that the same as your Tundra?

subzali
02-11-2013, 12:46 PM
No, dragging the brakes slightly prevents the clunk from happening.

Romer
02-11-2013, 01:56 PM
have you considered th swaybar bushings? I remember a noise on my 80 thats was fixed by replacing the main bolt (The one with a cone and filled with greese) as it had loosened and then became stripped

Fishy
02-11-2013, 02:32 PM
I sat in the drivers seat of Tim's truck and pulled forward and back. As Justin guessed early on, I'd put a large bet on that clunk coming from the brake. You can feel it just as you press the pedal. My guess is that he'll find the Evolution pad is either a hair smaller overall than OEM, or the holes that the pins slide through are ovaled out more than they should be, allowing the pad to slide in the caliper and clunk.

nakman
02-19-2013, 07:34 PM
Got my parts yesterday... time to hit the garage and see if this does anything. Who likes part numbers?

Squishy!
02-19-2013, 07:36 PM
It's always a shame to get all those pretty parts dirty.

Fishy
02-19-2013, 07:45 PM
Got my parts yesterday... time to hit the garage and see if this does anything. Who likes part numbers?

I like knowing what makes clunking noises. I thought for sure you were posting what you found!

nakman
02-19-2013, 08:25 PM
Kinda stuck here. Got all the new bits inside the caliper now the pads are too close to fit back on the rotor. I popped the cap off the reservoir, even loosened the bleeder, and can't squeeze them any further apart. It is as if my rotors are too thick, but they're not I still have my stock ones any they measure almost the same.

Fishy
02-19-2013, 08:30 PM
Does the caliper fit on the stock rotor? You C clamped the piston (with old pads in place) to compress it all the way?

nakman
02-19-2013, 08:44 PM
Ok I got it... Putting the tire on now stay tuned


edit: Still clunks. As loud as ever, at least when going forward. For some reason though it doesn't clunk when in reverse, though something must still be shifting because it clunks again when braking forward the first time. :confused:


I've got all new stuff on the driver's side now. yeah I had to use a clamp to compress the pistons.. but got it all on there just barely. I was missing most of the extra bits though, those pads had some backing plates but not the shims, nor did they have the top clip things. I think I remember hearing how he couldn't get them to fit... was hoping this was just worn pads, now what?

nakman
02-19-2013, 10:14 PM
My new thought is that the hub and rotor have come loose somehow, and the sound you hear is the rotor shifting against the bolts that hold it onto the hub. I hate to undo a perfectly happy front wheel bearing setup, but that may be the next step here, to dive in one layer deeper and see what's up. Plus I'm sure the cavity between the bearings is running a little low on grease, so good time to top that off too as long as I'm in there.

Then the reason why I hear it now only forward and not reverse has something to do with less clearance in my pads now? With the new pads and all the shims there's just less play, but maybe over time it'll clunk in reverse again.

Jacket
02-20-2013, 10:37 AM
Dang.

If the hub/rotor are loose, you should get reduced brake performance and/or mushy pedal right? But you haven't mentioned any braking issues so I'm assuming you haven't felt anything different.

thefatkid
02-20-2013, 05:59 PM
Your "W" spring is on the wrong side of the caliper. Well that is just a guess because the picture is sideways. Going off what looks like the bleeder and the direction of the shock sticker your spring is on the wrong side. It needs to be on the bottom of the caliper holding the pads in the "up" position so they do not click. Now this would only be a click/pop not a clunk.

nakman
02-21-2013, 04:51 PM
Your "W" spring is on the wrong side of the caliper. Well that is just a guess because the picture is sideways. Going off what looks like the bleeder and the direction of the shock sticker your spring is on the wrong side. It needs to be on the bottom of the caliper holding the pads in the "up" position so they do not click. Now this would only be a click/pop not a clunk.

Yes you are correct the W springs are currently on the top, as they have been since these pads were installed. I'll move them to the bottom and see if that changes anything.

nakman
02-23-2013, 11:45 AM
Still clunks. In fact now that I've moved the W spring to the bottom, it clunks in both forward and reverse again. Current picture:

60wag
02-23-2013, 12:13 PM
Can you get to the bolt heads that fasten the rotor to the hub without taking the whole thing apart?

Uncle Ben
02-23-2013, 01:16 PM
You should remove those new pads and put them in an 80 and get rid of the hundy....clunker gone!:D:bolt:

nakman
02-23-2013, 10:14 PM
Can you get to the bolt heads that fasten the rotor to the hub without taking the whole thing apart?

It's bolted from the back side, so I'd be taking the hub off then resetting the wheel bearing. Not really a big deal, just messy and further into it than I was hoping. I may try 2 W springs just for kicks, now that I've got an extra... the fact that I was able to alter the clunk just by moving that spring has me second guessing diving further into the hub.

farnhamstj
02-24-2013, 08:53 AM
OEM pads? or aftermarket? I still think sway bar bushing though.

nakman
02-24-2013, 09:18 AM
Oem.

nakman
03-04-2013, 04:55 PM
So while putting new brake pads & bits on the passenger side this weekend, I inspected the swaybar bushings and they appear to look pretty good. Plus this clunk is way too high pitched/distinct to be that, IMO, but I dunno. I am also now running dual W springs- both top & bottom, but that didn't seem to do anything.

I'm back to thinking CV. PN is 04427-60120 from Toyota, and you get 2 rubber boots, clamps for both boot ends, 2 tubes of grease, 2 new snap rings, and the large snap ring for inside the bell- all for $30. :eek: I've got a spare CV at home that's old, but was "working when removed," I'm going to dive into an R&R on that bad boy and get it ready for action. Then I'm going to dive in and swap the thing- something I need to learn how to do anyway. I'm also reading up on CV swaps over on Mud, beyond the right puller for the top ball joint and the right combination of prybars to get it out of the diff, this actually sounds kinda easy.. may be a while, but I'll post up with any progress.

Question: what tool do I need to effectively compress and clamp those OEM boot springs? they're not your typical hose clamp...

If anyone wants to hear it clunk, come out to the meeting Wednesday! There may even be an opportunity to jack up the front end...

rover67
03-04-2013, 05:02 PM
it's the high pitch noise that makes me thing CV. I am envisioning a ball bearing popping into place in that steel bell.

Fishy
03-04-2013, 05:58 PM
I used these, Tim. http://www.pfranleds.com/other-parts/ My OEM ones leaked just a tiny bit, changed over to these and have been good ever since. They're just McMaster Carr smooth band, rolled edge clamps.

If for some reason you can't get them in time let me know. I keep a few extra just in case, I'll give you mine, then just replace my stash whenever you get new ones.

I'll have them at the meeting if you need.

nakman
03-04-2013, 09:18 PM
Cool, thanks Stan. Romer mentioned something about those today as well, I may just place a little order with Paul then as I likely won't get to this until this weekend at the earliest.

TIMZTOY
03-06-2013, 02:56 PM
PM'd

nakman
03-10-2013, 02:37 PM
Clunk be gone. I should have listened to myself a few weeks ago, as it turned out to be the brake rotor had come loose from the hub. I replaced those bolts, used red Loc tite, and torqued them to 85..

In the pic you can see around the bolt heads where there had been movement. Those bolts were all about finger tight on removal..

Fishy
03-10-2013, 02:43 PM
Awesome! Glad to hear you got it!

TIMZTOY
03-10-2013, 07:24 PM
Clunk be gone. I should have listened to myself a few weeks ago, as it turned out to be the brake rotor had come loose from the hub. I replaced those bolts, used red Loc tite, and torqued them to 85..

In the pic you can see around the bolt heads where there had been movement. Those bolts were all about finger tight on removal..

:thumb:

Jacket
03-10-2013, 08:09 PM
Sweet!

rover67
03-10-2013, 09:48 PM
Dang, I'm glad you finally got it!! were the old bolts all jacked up?

corsair23
03-10-2013, 10:06 PM
In the pic you can see around the bolt heads where there had been movement. Those bolts were all about finger tight on removal..

That right there is pretty dang scary :eek:

Glad you got it figured out!!

60wag
03-11-2013, 05:53 AM
I see the problem in the picture - there are only 5 bolts :)

Jacket
03-11-2013, 08:36 AM
I see the problem in the picture - there are only 5 bolts :)

:lmao:

nakman
03-11-2013, 08:42 AM
No, the bolts weren't jacked up at all. the holes in the brake weren't all wallered out either.. really I could have just snugged them down and likely been fine. But since I went on the excursion to the Lexus dealer on Saturday for new bolts, I went ahead and replaced them all. Also, I found using the tire on the ground to be an excellent work surface

nakman
03-11-2013, 08:46 AM
Speaking of just 5 bolts, it would be sweet if you could put a 100 series drive flange on an 80- that would be a nice upgrade, to what in my experience was a bit of a weak point. the bolts with the cone washers are 10mm- takes a 14mm socket to remove, so they won't strip as easy. Those pins are bigger too- I bet you could mill out an 80 hub to retro fit... I still don't like just 5 lugs, but I do like the bigger drive flange bolts, and yes there are 6 of them.

Oh, and the star washer between the big nuts is the same. Same nuts too, for that matter.

sleeoffroad
03-11-2013, 09:49 AM
Hey, no props for your friendly Land Cruiser shop that found the problem ?:)

nakman
03-11-2013, 09:59 AM
Hey, no props for your friendly Land Cruiser shop that found the problem ?:)

Oh yeah... :rolleyes:

Uncle Ben
03-11-2013, 10:20 AM
Speaking of just 5 bolts, it would be sweet if you could put a 100 series drive flange on an 80- that would be a nice upgrade, to what in my experience was a bit of a weak point. the bolts with the cone washers are 10mm- takes a 14mm socket to remove, so they won't strip as easy. Those pins are bigger too- I bet you could mill out an 80 hub to retro fit... I still don't like just 5 lugs, but I do like the bigger drive flange bolts, and yes there are 6 of them.

Oh, and the star washer between the big nuts is the same. Same nuts too, for that matter.

You absolutely can! The flange bolts are a bit big for the 80 hub but the drive pins are a fantastic upgrade! Replace the drive studs with ARP's and that weak link is all but eliminated.