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View Full Version : Looking at a 1989 FJ62: Tips?


MountainGoat
05-16-2013, 11:50 AM
I am going to check out the truck tonight after work. I already got a tip from Crash regarding checking for frame rust especially at the front of the rear spring mounts. If anybody with 60/62 experience wants to chime in on what to look for (model specific) feel free! :)

Hopefully Martin can make it down to look at it with me, but he isn't for sure yet. If anybody wants to volunteer to look at it with me I would be much obliged. The viewing is at 5:30pm at The Fort in Morrison.

rover67
05-16-2013, 12:31 PM
they rust where all the sheet metal comes together at the fender lip in the rear, at the rear seatbelt mounts which can be sen from the inner fender, bottom of tail gate, bottom of rear glass, snake blinders rust at the mounting holes.

check for leaks at the rear heater where the pipes run into it from under neath.

Uncle Ben
05-16-2013, 12:52 PM
they rust where all the sheet metal comes together at the fender lip in the rear, at the rear seatbelt mounts which can be sen from the inner fender, bottom of tail gate, bottom of rear glass, snake blinders rust at the mounting holes.

check for leaks at the rear heater where the pipes run into it from under neath.

....and around the windshield inset from the rain gutter seems leaking.

MountainGoat
05-16-2013, 02:04 PM
Excellent. Thanks guys! :thumb:

SteveH
05-16-2013, 02:30 PM
Listen for a loud transfer case sound. It seems that many of these trucks with 200K+ have a pretty loud case, indicating some wear. It seems to be an FJ62-specific issue. Get on and off the gas at highway speeds to elicit the sound.

Also, many have nonfunctional or very slow power windows. The switches are to blame if the window doesn't work at all, and likely the window tracks are to blame for slow moving glass.

60wag
05-16-2013, 04:35 PM
I think the wear point in the transfer case is the splined joint between the transmission output shaft and the input gear to the transfer case. Shifting between drive and reverse when stopped can produce a noticeable clunk as the backlash in the joint reverses. The Australian McNamara input gear has been the relatively cheap fix as the gear is wider than stock, it mates with an unworn part of the splined shaft.

FJBRADY
05-16-2013, 04:46 PM
Make sure it has a hopped up V8:thumb:

MountainGoat
05-16-2013, 05:27 PM
More great tips (except for Brady :rolleyes:). Thanks!

MDH33
05-16-2013, 10:01 PM
Sorry I missed you today Dan. Just worked 24 of the past 48 hours. How did the 62 look?

MountainGoat
05-16-2013, 10:41 PM
Well, I am leaning pretty strong towards getting it. The seller is in no hurry and he is out of town now until Monday. He took the add down from CL because he's going oot and he's tired of dealing with looky loos who don't know what they are looking at.

The interior is pretty ratty but the frame is rust free. There are some smallish rust patches on the body (top of the rear wheel wells and lower left corner of the back window. Tailgate bottom looks clean. Windshield frame looks clean as well. It was a Nebraska truck most of its life, if that counts for anything.

Starts and idles good, power is smooth and steady. I took it out onto 285 from the Morrison exit down to C470 and back. Steers true and it held 65 from C470 up to the Morrison exit on 285 (up the hill). No drive line clunk that I could detect. The rear end seemed a little loud, maybe the rear diff making a low howl. A couple of random clunks in the steering, I suspect it needs TREs possibly. Knuckles are damp and dirty but not spewing gear oil. Hubs, 4wd and low range all felt good. The shift linkage needs to be tightened up, pretty loose and takes a couple of tries to get it into park.

Fluids looked and smelled fine. Oil leak at the rear of the motor. The radiator cap was leaking a bit, but the temp gauge stayed in range. A/C button lights up when you push it, but only blows mildly cool. Passenger rear window doesn't operate but all the others do. Headlights, taillight and turn signals all work. Has a mild lift on it, not OME. Shocks are sort of silver colored and it has an HFS sticker on one back window. Rear springs look like they are sagging some.

My take is that it's far from perfect, but seems to be solid where it counts. He is really interested in a straight across swap for my pickup. He's going to have trouble selling it locally because it is partially de-smogged (no smog pump). I still think I need somebody more familiar with 60 Series trucks to take a look at it with me, and talk me down off the ledge if need be. :hill:

nakman
05-16-2013, 10:46 PM
Did the check engine light up when you turned the key on? Those have a very easy to remove bulb... so easy way to hide an issue. Only sayin' because I bought a 62 once that came with that "CEL not on" feature... :rolleyes:

MountainGoat
05-16-2013, 10:57 PM
Yep, it lit right up before the starter engaged.

SteveH
05-17-2013, 09:57 AM
I forgot to mention that shifter bushings are a known wear point and can be replaced. My buddy did his and tightened it up considerably.

MountainGoat
05-17-2013, 10:06 AM
I forgot to mention that shifter bushings are a known wear point and can be replaced. My buddy did his and tightened it up considerably.

Yes. Found the write up on Mud for that one. Also, apparently the steering clunk is usually handled by grease to the steering shaft joint. Another typical "problem" which is easily solved.

nattybumppo
05-17-2013, 08:28 PM
That clunk could also be the u-joint on the steering shaft. My daughter's 62 clunks there, even with new TREs. 62s seem to rust a lot less than 60. I have heard the shifter bushings are easily replaced...mine are sitting in the to-do box for the 62. Steve and I can probable help with an ac recharge if that is your issue there. I have a set of OME shocks I don't need if that looks like something that needs attention. But those air pumps for the 62 are expensive unless you can find a good used one.

I guess it all comes down to price. I paid 1600 for mine (about 210K) and it had no significant rust, but just about everything was worn out (except for the major powertrain items which seem to be chugging along nicely after some much-needed deferred maintenance issues. But give em a little much-needed love, and those 62s are great! My daughter loves hers...

FJBRADY
05-21-2013, 01:07 PM
Didjabuyityet?

MDH33
05-21-2013, 01:34 PM
Dan, if you trade your truck for another wagon, you're going to need another pickup. I'll make you a heck of a deal on an '80 hilux . ;)

MountainGoat
05-21-2013, 02:40 PM
Didjabuyityet?

No. Working on getting Robbie to look at it before I take the plunge.

Dan, if you trade your truck for another wagon, you're going to need another pickup. I'll make you a heck of a deal on an '80 hilux . ;)

:gaah: You know I'm a sucker for great deals man. :hill:

MountainGoat
05-22-2013, 08:49 PM
Well, I started this post looking for tips. Got a lot of good ones. Now I'll give one back: If the truck can't make it from Golden to Boulder because it is overheating, you probably don't want it. :hill:

Last time I bought a car that was overheating it was my 1986 Celica. I thought it was probably something simple that I could fix. Turned out to be a cracked engine block. :eek:

I'm gonna pass on this one!