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Kipper
08-20-2006, 07:15 PM
I tore into my new 2F this afternoon after the ralley. Seeing all those sweet 40's really made me anxious to get this FJ40 project rolling. I pulled the valve cover, carb, and manifolds and found some not so great stuff. :(

First, the carb had about a cup of water in it and the butterfies on the bottom were rusted shut. This guy is probably gonna need a rebuild.
A quick peek into the intake manifold showed all kinds of yummy gunk growing in there. The water had run through the two center intake manifold ports and into there respective ports on the head. The gunk is mostly just surface rust, and wiped off with my finger, but I have no idea how much water went in there. I wasn't planning on pulling the head on this motor, but it's looking like I should pull it and see how much water if any made it past the valves into the cylinders. I think I already know the answer, but what do you guys think?

Uncle Ben
08-20-2006, 08:59 PM
You gotta look dood! What year?

Shark Bait
08-20-2006, 09:12 PM
I've got a carb for you, if you need it. :)

wesintl
08-20-2006, 09:31 PM
Can you turn the crank?

Kipper
08-20-2006, 09:35 PM
Kevin - 1978
Chris - I may just take you up on that.

I already ordered the 2f overhaul gasket kit, so I've got a head gasket ready to go. I need to get an FSM for this motor. So if it's just surface rust in the cylinder and no pitting, I should be good to go?

Kipper
08-20-2006, 09:38 PM
yes, the crank turns, which gives me hope.

Shark Bait
08-20-2006, 10:19 PM
I can probably locate a rebuilt head if you need one. No idea how much $$$.

Uncle Ben
08-20-2006, 10:43 PM
Kevin - 1978
Chris - I may just take you up on that.

I already ordered the 2f overhaul gasket kit, so I've got a head gasket ready to go. I need to get an FSM for this motor. So if it's just surface rust in the cylinder and no pitting, I should be good to go?

I would have the head gone through since you already have it off. If it is just light surface rust in the cyl's than you might be OK. If there is quite a bit of the orange "jello" in the cyl's then the rings could also be corroded in which case they will trash the cylinders when ya run it. Sorry dude! :(

Kipper
08-21-2006, 10:16 AM
I would have the head gone through since you already have it off. If it is just light surface rust in the cyl's than you might be OK. If there is quite a bit of the orange "jello" in the cyl's then the rings could also be corroded in which case they will trash the cylinders when ya run it. Sorry dude! :(

:rant:

Do you guys have any shops you recommend for head work?

Shark Bait
08-21-2006, 10:48 AM
I can probably locate a rebuilt head if you need one. No idea how much $$$.
:rolleyes:

Kipper
08-21-2006, 11:24 AM
:rolleyes:

sorry ShareBait, no idea how I missed that post. Please look into that for me if the price is right, i'm interested.:thumb:

Shark Bait
08-21-2006, 12:56 PM
PM'ed you.

Rzeppa
08-21-2006, 08:34 PM
Kipper, lemme know if you need some hands-on help. I have FSM + Haynes too.

Uncle Ben
08-21-2006, 09:00 PM
:rant:

Do you guys have any shops you recommend for head work?
My favorite shop is also several others around here....Mountain High Performance.
303-420-6218 5293 Ward Rd, Arvada, CO 80002 Bill the owner is awesome and Pat, his right hand man, is top notch and into Cruisers!

Good Luck Kipp....let me know if I can help! :cheers:

Rzeppa
08-21-2006, 11:30 PM
They used to be Lakewood Auto Machine, right? If so, that was where I used to take all my engine machine work.

Uncle Ben
08-21-2006, 11:54 PM
They used to be Lakewood Auto Machine, right? If so, that was where I used to take all my engine machine work.

Thats them!:thumb:

Kipper
08-22-2006, 11:18 PM
I pulled the head off this evening, found a lot more orange goop. Pics of piston and valvles:

Kipper
08-22-2006, 11:22 PM
that piston cleaned right up with a dry rag. however the cylinder wall at #1 had more serious rust, pics:

Kipper
08-22-2006, 11:25 PM
Here's a few pics of the cylinder wall of the piston that had all the orange gunk after turning the crank, the close up shows some pitting :(

Kipper
08-22-2006, 11:28 PM
you can see from the rust colored rings around the cylinder wall in the second to last pic that Kevin is right, that gunk made it's way down to the rings, which probably means that he's also right about them trashing the cylinder if I run it this way. Is there any chance of me just cleaning this thing up and running it for a few years like this? The gunk wipes right off, so if this stuff formed fairly recently could I get lucky and just have it burn off after a few minutes of cranking it up? Can you tell I'm really really trying to be optimistic right now?

wesintl
08-22-2006, 11:42 PM
Pull the pistons clean it up and run a hone though it. Clean pistons up reassemble and run it.

It doesn't look that bad except for the 3 scores in the one pic.

my .02 but after last weekend i'm clearly a red neck ;)

Uncle Ben
08-23-2006, 12:24 AM
Pull the pistons clean it up and run a hone though it. Clean pistons up reassemble and run it.

It doesn't look that bad except for the 3 scores in the one pic.

my .02 but after last weekend i'm clearly a red neck ;)

Wes has the answer! Impossible to give 100% advice based on pictures. I would rebuild based on what I see in the pics. It is a gamble to clean, hone and assemble when your so close now to just do the bottom end, get Chris' head (cyl!) and giving the old beast a new lease on life. I also have a carb you can have and any and all emission junk you need. Give me a call tomorrow and lets chat....ya know I got your back dood! :beer2:

PabloCruise
08-23-2006, 07:34 AM
Kipper, we need pics and a bio of this 1978!!!

Rzeppa
08-23-2006, 10:17 AM
Kipper, you might try first getting rid of all the rust and then honing, perhaps on one cylinder to start with. That way you can take measurements and see if the dimensions of the cylinder walls are within spec, and also reveal if you have any serious grooves. If they aren't in spec or you have deep grooves, they'll need to be bored.

Judging by how extensive the rust is, you may have to to a complete build: Have the block dipped, cylinders bored, new oversize pistons and rings, possibly crank and cam ground too. The only way to know whether the crank and cam need to be done is to take them out and measure them. Plastigage will tell you what your oil clearances are to see if you need new bearings.

Have you looked at the crank and rods yet?

Kipper
08-23-2006, 11:56 AM
Thanks for all the input and offers guys, very helpful. I will definately need some help, as the bottom end of a motor is totally foreign to me. :confused: I can get it all apart no problem, but putting it back together is not something I'm real comfortable with. It looks like I better settle in for the long haul here, and wouldn't ya know it, I just gave my engine stand away 2 months ago (to a mopar guy no less). Anybody have one I can borrow? I'm not sure about a full rebuild at this point, I might rather find another cheap engine for awhile, but I'm not opposed to pulling the two affected pistons and honing. The reason I bought this particular motor was so that I wouldn't have to do any of this right now and could get the 40 running soon on a low budget, but whatever, it will be fun to do.

TJ - this is the truck: http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=168&highlight=1967
It's most likely going to get this 78 drivetrain, late model axles and quick treeroot style paint job after a little metal repair. It looks bad in the pics, but it is actually a very solid truck. I'm really looking forward to bringing it back to life. I also have many of the parts needed for an FJ60 steering conversion.

:beer:

Kipper
08-23-2006, 03:01 PM
After talking to several of you guys today, I've decided to look for another motor that is in decent shape so I can get rolling here. Keep your eyes peeled for 2fs, i'm not even opposed to a fresh F.

treerootCO
08-23-2006, 05:33 PM
keep an eye out? I can't walk out my back door without tripping over a few.