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Dirt Claude
08-07-2013, 10:38 AM
I’m in the middle of a frame off restore on my 72’ FJ40 and I’ve come to a dilemma on which adapter to use with a mild SBC 350 & Toy 4spd. I’ve currently have both adapters in my possession, but can’t decide which one to use?

I like the AA kit as I can place the motor wherever I want. The downside is that I’ll need to shorten or lengthen the drive shafts, fab a new rear crossmember to support the tranny/transfercase, and possibly bend or modify the 4spd Toyota shifter handle.

What I like about the Marks kit is that it keeps the tranny/transfercase in the stock position which eliminates the need to modify the driveshafts, it also has rear tranny mounts coming off the bellhousing and would eliminate the need to fab a new rear crossmember. The biggest downside I see is the engine being pushed forward more which makes it a little tighter for the fan and radiator, not sure which kind of fan I’ll be running yet? I’ve also heard some folks had vibration issues with the Marks adapter.

If you owned the both, which one would you run?

rover67
08-07-2013, 10:45 AM
If I had both and either would fit (shifter didn't hit dash and engine didn't hit firewall) I'd choose the AA Bellhousing.

I run the marks and it has lots of parts and isn't super easy to service. The clutch is kinda buried in there. Also I had a vibration issue due to the spud shaft not engaging into the pilot bearing all the way that it took me 50k miles to figure out.

Otherwise it si nice because the tranny/t case dont move, but that is really the least of your concerns when doing a swap at least IMHOP.

Dirt Claude
08-08-2013, 08:27 AM
Do you recall what you ended up doing to resolve the vibration issue Marco?

rover67
08-08-2013, 10:38 AM
I ended up having to have a small spacer machined (Thanks Bruce) that pushed the pilot bearing out so it had full engagement with the spud shaft, and well ad spacing the spud shaft out from the tranny permanently so it wouldn't float back and forth too much.

In the earlier designs that used a pilot bushing instead of a bearing apparently the spud shaft would get forced forward during running and chew up the bushing. That was another problem they had.

It was more of an issue with my setup since I have the 5.3 block (vortec) which had a slightly different spacing of the crank vs. the back of the block and the marks adapter was actually designed for the older 350 blocks. If you do use the Marks kit, i'd measure everything before calling it a day to make sure the sound shaft and pilot have the right fit, also measure and set the throwout fork/bearing sleeve correctly. Lots of folks struggle with that.

Dirt Claude
08-08-2013, 10:52 AM
I do have an older block, so if I end up going that route it may be ok as far as vibrations are concerned. Thanks for the info!

rover67
08-08-2013, 10:57 AM
from what i measured the numbers didn't even work out for an older block.... the length discrepancy just isn't as great.

bottom line is that the spud shaft can float around a lot and with the clutch disk on it it can get off center and vibrate pretty badly.

Corbet
08-08-2013, 09:46 PM
I've had 2 Cruisers with SBC and the OEM 4-speed. Personally I would not use the OEM trans if I were to ever do it again. I'd use something with an overdrive. Personally it would be an auto. Just my .02.

Both mine used the AA stuff.

Dirt Claude
08-09-2013, 10:32 AM
I've had 2 Cruisers with SBC and the OEM 4-speed. Personally I would not use the OEM trans if I were to ever do it again. I'd use something with an overdrive. Personally it would be an auto. Just my .02.

Both mine used the AA stuff.

I have no doubt there are better engine/tranny/tcase combos out there than what I'm going to be running. I appreciate the suggestion!

The problem is that I'm trying to complete this build on a somewhat tight budget. I pretty much already have everything I'll need to complete this swap including an extra H42 and 4spd Tcase, incase I grenade mine. The thought of changing directions right now kind of bums me out as I really want to get the FJ40 back on the road. I've also already rebuilt the tcase and cleaned up and resealed the tranny. The cruiser originally had a SBC & 3spd tranny, using the 4spd with synchronized gears will be a step up in itself.

The main reason I got this FJ40 was so that I could teach my son basic auto mechanics, he'll be 15 in a couple of weeks and getting his permit soon. We're both having a great time with this build so far.

The FJ will primarily be used for street cruising and mild wheeling. No long highway travels where overdrive would be real beneficial. I've got a feeling this won't be my last FJ40 build.

Dirt Claude
08-09-2013, 10:33 AM
I think I've decided to go the AA route and just fab a new tcase/tranny crossmember instead of using the AA propeller style mount. It's sound like a simpler setup.

rover67
08-09-2013, 12:11 PM
I think I've decided to go the AA route and just fab a new tcase/tranny crossmember instead of using the AA propeller style mount. It's sound like a simpler setup.

I personally think that's a good decision.

Fabbing mounts won't be too tough and you would have probably had to do driveshaft work no matter what anyways...

Make sure you study driveshaft angles and how they work before setting the engine position. I didn't understand that when i did my swap and had to redo things.

Dirt Claude
08-09-2013, 12:54 PM
Make sure you study driveshaft angles and how they work before setting the engine position. I didn't understand that when i did my swap and had to redo things.

Thanks for the tip!

Corbet
08-09-2013, 08:58 PM
I have no doubt there are better engine/tranny/tcase combos out there than what I'm going to be running. I appreciate the suggestion!

No worries. My two biggest regrets with my 60 build was using a carbed SBC rather than TBI. And using a ranger overdrive/stock 4 speed rather than a TH700r4.


Make sure you study driveshaft angles and how they work before setting the engine position. I didn't understand that when i did my swap and had to redo things.

Definitely remember this.



The exhaust is another thing to have pretty well thought out before deciding on engine location. I crossed under my oil pan on the 60 to work it into a single exit. We did not get the cross pipe close enough and the diff would just touch it even with a 2" lift. My 40 had dual dumping out the sides. Clearances were good but the side pipes were loud.

Dirt Claude
08-11-2013, 05:14 PM
I'll be running a pair of Ram Horn exhaust manifolds each with a center dump. I've already got a cross pipe and will be running it under the oil pan and probably dumping it out behind the rear tire somewhere. I've got a 4" lift which should give me a little flexibility.

rover67
08-11-2013, 07:47 PM
I've got a 4" lift which should give me a little flexibility.

don't forget to lower bump stops if needed. also think about lateral movement of the axle. I found that at least on my rig (heavy 60) the axle can move back and for the laterally 4" or more. First time I set it up I learned that after a week in Utah blasting around the desert. It took an oil level sensor out.

Also, not knowing your experience level (you probably know this stuff already, but mine ain't high) this may help. Roger Brown does a great job of explaining Driveline angles.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml#Measurements

Dirt Claude
08-12-2013, 09:02 AM
Good info, I hadn't come across Roger's info yet. thx