View Full Version : FJ60 Failed emissions - Carbon Monoxide too high
08-28-2006, 01:06 PM
I have an '86 FJ60 that failed the CO portion of the emissions test. Limit is 40 and I registered 108 (I don't remember the units).
The truck has had extensive work in the last 3 months fixing oil leaks (oil pan gasket, rear main seal, side cover gasket, oil sending unit) as well as a general tune up that replaced every hose under the hood, new spark plug wires, and numerous other items. I don't think compression is the problem.
I am new to this vehicle and I haven't had a chance to poke around on this particular problem, but I'm guessing the fuel mix from the carb is too rich. Can anyone recommend a manual or web site that will tell me how to adjust the carb to add more air?
I need to know what to look for to determine if this is the problem. I would rather fix this myself than pay a shop $500 to adjust it for me.
Some info about the truck:
running 87 octane
oil changed 2 month ago - I run synthetic
choke works fine, I have to use it to start first time each day
08-28-2006, 01:39 PM
I have the FSMs, and there is a troubleshooting guide (in the emisssions manual, I believe) that gives some guidance on what the high CO reading could mean. I don't have it with me, but I bet someone on the board might.
sorry I couldn't be more help.
08-28-2006, 01:44 PM
I would recommend getting the Field Service Manuals (FSMs) from Toyota for your specific model. Get the 2F manual, chassis manual and the emissions manual. You can order them from this number, which is the Toyota Publications Dept.
Begin by checking all of the emissions equipment and vacuum tubing under the hood. Many times, the vacuum lines have been connected incorrectly by mechanics unfamiliar with the "spaghetti". The 2F manual will help you with any carb adjustments.
If you have more specific technical questions, you might want to try posting them in the FJ60 technical section on the IH8MUD.com forum.
08-28-2006, 04:48 PM
Thanks Martin and CardinalFJ60.
I've got the emissions manual on order.
BTW - the number for Toyota pubs is 800-622-2033. The number above is something else.
I'll be working on it this weekend, so I may have more questions. I appreciate the help!
08-28-2006, 07:47 PM
The air injection system (air pump, cat converter and a bunch of diverter valves) has to be working to get the CO down. Its possible that there is something else wrong but I'd start with the AI stuff. In my experience the air pumps run on the low side of the Toyota spec for output. The cat is likely weak from many many miles. The combo can make it tough to pass the test. There are a couple of jumbo check valves that are suposed to keep hot exhaust gas from backing up into the AI system. The check valves tend to rot out and the exhaust can trash the rubber diaphrams in the Air Bypass Valve - that's the fancy diverter assembly mounted on the drivers side fender. That thing has to be working for the output from the air pump to get where it needs to go. The Toyota Emissions manaul has all the details for checking all of the emissions systems.
08-29-2006, 09:47 PM
Thanks for the input 60wag--
The catalytic converter looks brand new. The guy that had this truck before me spent a lot of money updating things. The carb is either new or rebuilt and almost every hose under the hood is new and on tight.
I did notice, however, that two of the hoses on the vacuum piping seem to be switched. Not sure how much of a difference that makes, but from what I've read in forums it's not uncommon.
Also, the air filter was very dirty. When I popped the cover off, there was a 3" piece of vacuum tube inside with the filter, and the filter itself had an unusually high number of bees in it. It's an K&N though, so I bought some cleaner and removed a fair amount of dirt from it.
I should have the emissions manual tomorrow. My plan at this point is to
1) change the oil
2) oil the air filter and put it back in
3) switch the incorrect vacuum piping
4) go to the Toyota dealership in Boulder (where I've spent several hundred dollars) and see if one of the mechanics will show me how to adjust the carb's air intake
5) take a look at the 'jumbo check valves' you mentioned that will be in the book and see what kind of state they are in
Unless I see something wrong with one of the check valves, I'm going to retest after completing steps 1-4.
Thanks to everyone for their help! I'll post how it turns out.
08-29-2006, 09:59 PM
While that stuff can help I don't think it's going to get you to pass. we'll, maybe #4 ;)
Doesn't high CO usually mean it's running rich?
The mix screw is at the base on the engine side. The screw facing the firewall is the idle. Idle is 650 and vac is 16.5. I've always timed adjusted the carb and used the vacuum to set mine. I've had vacuum over 20 and timing as high as 16, you might be best off with factory 7* for emissions though.It's pretty tricky and not the easyiest thing to get down til you do it a while. I'm probably not that good anymore since i've been driving fuel injection for the last 4 years.
Search here there were a couple recommended places to go get emissions test where the tester would tinker with the carb to get the correct results.
03-21-2007, 12:56 PM
Just an update for anyone who may be having the same problems as I did (still have).
I ended up getting a waiver for the FJ60 and got plates. I had to show I spent more than $715 directly on the emissions system, and have an emissions specialist at the DMV look at it to see if they could solve anything. I had a friendly mechanic print me a bill for over the amount (which I don't feel bad about because I WILL make this thing run right... eventually. And I was pretty close that number anyway (new 02 sensor, carb rebuild).
But for anyone who fails emissions with a Land Cruiser more than twice in the Denver area, you can go to the Broomfield Emissions Center and see a guy named Joe Lavonas. In about an hour, he told me more about the emissions on an FJ60 than I got from anyone else or figured out on my own in the previous 9 months I owned it.
In my case, and apparently this is quite frequent, the PS pump had a pulley that didn't track right, causing the PS pump to go bad and eventually leak. When a PS pump on an FJ60 leaks, it goes down into the air pump, which then starts to chew itself up and spit out particles into the hoses and check valves it supplies with air.
I just had a re-manufactured PS pump installed, so I have solved the root of the problems. At this point I have to replace the air pump, one of the check valves, and about 3 or 4 hoses and it should fix the it. The rest of the emissions system seemed fine when we isolated pieces to check their pressure.
Joe sees Land Cruisers of all years all the time, and knows what to look for to find the problems. Like I said we narrowed mine down in about an hour.
I don't think you can make an appointment with him unless you have the paper work showing you failed 2 emissions tests, but if you're in that boat he's definitely the guy to see.
How this helps anyone else in the same situation.
03-21-2007, 01:31 PM
GREAT follow up information! Thanks for sharing
03-21-2007, 02:57 PM
That is great follow up for a reference here.
03-21-2007, 06:11 PM
Hey, I got to talk to Joe when I was having emissions problems - great guy, very knowledgeable. He checked some things on my truck, then popped one of the air injection hoses loose and stuck a compressed air hose into it, then ran the test to demonstrate that my air pump was weak and that the cat was also weak. Finding a strong air pump is no easy task. The remanufactured pumps don't get new vanes from what I've gathered. New pump are sick expensive. I got a reman pump but overhauled it prior to installation. The quality of remans ranges from ho-hum to crappy. I've dissassembled pumps straight from the parts store find 2 of the three vanes installed. I also installed a new cat. Unfortuneately the combo of the cat, air pump and other misc smog parts fixes still didn't pass the test. It was the Jim C rebuilt carb that finally brought the CO way down. HTHs,
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