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Opie
11-10-2013, 10:51 AM
Hi Everyone,

My name is Opie. I'm new to Rising Sun and look forward to attending a meeting.

I just acquired a '86 FJ60. It hasn't been driven much recently due to leaking axle seals. It probably also has a bunch of other stuff wrong, but that's the first priority as grease is getting on the brake rotors.

From what I've read, it doesn't look like a hard job (albeit messy) but currently, I don't a place to work on it. I live in a condo complex in Boulder. With weather rapidly getting colder, doing this outside doesn't sound like much fun either. It's not my daily driver, so it can wait, but I don't want to let the truck sit much longer less it become a basket case.

I contacted two vendors to see what they might charge and I'm waiting to hear back on quotes. In the meantime, I thought I'd reach out to the community and see if one of you are interested in tackling the job as a side project. You know, make a little extra cash before the holidays kind of thing.

If you've done this before it's probably a fast/easy job for you but it could be a eat up a whole weekend for me. Of course, if the price is un-affordable I might end up doing it myself.

Here's the procedure:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml

It looks like I can get the rebuild kit for $92 from Cruiser Outfitters.
http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/specials.html
Part #FA7590

Here's my new FJ

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-v2n8ooAfLq4/Umawh1PsumI/AAAAAAAAPD0/0ovXU2RY8Xc/w1026-h577-no/20131022_104744.jpg

Thanks for the responses!

nattybumppo
11-10-2013, 01:50 PM
I can recommend the kit from Cruiser Outfitters, but add the Marlin seals (you need two at about $8 each) to use instead of the stock ones in the kit. You also have to add for wheel bearings if you choose to replace them, but depending on how many miles are on your truck, you may not need to. I have done this job twice and it still takes me about a day each side...of course I'm notoriously slow and easily distracted by kids needing attention and such. It is not a hard job, but quite messy. You should do it yourself if you can figure out a good place to work. It is very smart to get in touch with your front end so you are in the know in case you run into problems on the trail with a birf or something.

RicardoJM
11-10-2013, 02:26 PM
I agree with Nattybumpo, get the parts and get it done. I have done the full service on my rig and helped a few others with the job over the years. If you do decide to do the work, let me know if you need a hand.

Opie
11-10-2013, 02:55 PM
Thanks, guys. I'll let you know how it goes!

nattybumppo
11-10-2013, 10:34 PM
OK, here's four tips. 1) make sure you have and use your FSM, 2) tap the cone washers with a brass hammer to loosen them up for easy removal after you take out the bolts, 3) use care to seat those Marlin seals square and snug, and 4) insert your long side axle shaft first, then you can juggle and slightly turn either side axle shaft as necessary to get the teeth to line up so you can get the short side shaft fully inserted...Ricardo is the master at this, and it is a little tricky. Oh yeah...5) make sure you are careful not to damage the metal shims on the top and bottom knuckles as you take it apart. You want to make sure you can re-use them so you don't have to go through the complex measurement process during reassembly (I believe this is what sets your caster so keep the shims wioth the appropriate parts).

Inukshuk
11-10-2013, 11:37 PM
I disagree about Marlin Seals. My experience was they wore groves in my inner axles much faster than OEM.

MDH33
11-11-2013, 06:33 AM
Hi Opie, nice 60.

All good advice so far. Although I don't have any long term experience with the marlin seals.

I would recommend doing the bearings while you're in there.

There are some specific tools and supplies you'll need to make this job easy: factory service manual, parts washer, brass drifts, 54 mm socket, luggage or fish scale, lots of towels and brake cleaner, molybdenum grease for the birf, regular wheel bearing grease for the bearings.

If you buy the supplies and decide you don't want to jump in, pm me. I'm laid off right now and can do it for a lot less than a shop. Ive done it on 40's, 60's, minis,etc.

Inukshuk
11-11-2013, 09:36 AM
I'm laid off right now and can do it for a lot less than a shop. Ive done it on 40's, 60's, minis,etc.

:thumb:

CardinalFJ60
11-11-2013, 09:37 AM
Hey Martin!

I need to do the 40...but have never done it myself. I'd love to take you up on that offer and maybe we do it together...And still help ya' out while between gigs. I reeeaaallly need to know how to do this, but would want some guidance on the first go-'round. I don't have a parts washer...but most other things. I'll move this to PM in the event we can get together someday (my place or yours). I do have a heated garage space. :thumb:

hi-jack...off.

MDH33
11-11-2013, 11:12 AM
PM'd you Shawn. :thumb:

Corbet
11-11-2013, 11:54 AM
I disagree about Marlin Seals. My experience was they wore groves in my inner axles much faster than OEM.

True for the full time 80 series. Not near the issue on the part time 40/60 axles.

I would also recommend the Longfield lifetime wiper seals. http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/other-products/10/toyota-knuckle-lifetime-wiper-seals.html I've had mine in for over 50K and like them a lot.

Crash
11-11-2013, 11:55 AM
I disagree about Marlin Seals. My experience was they wore groves in my inner axles much faster than OEM.

Daniel, for clarity sake, you are speaking of your experience with Marlin seals in your 80, right? The Marlin seals for a 60 series are most definitely the way to go, this learned through hard earned personal experience and the experience of other 60 owners. 80 series Marlin seals are a different story and stock seems to be the preferred choice, this again through personal and others' experiences.

nattybumppo
11-11-2013, 12:47 PM
I disagree about Marlin Seals. My experience was they wore groves in my inner axles much faster than OEM.

Yeah, I've heard that about Marlin seals when used on a 80 series, but of course I've never owned an 80. Were talking 60s here and they sure worked great for me!

Opie
11-11-2013, 01:02 PM
I ordered parts this morning from Cruiser Outfitters. I went with the Marlin seals and the Timkin wheel bearings. Bryce, the guy at Cruiser Outfitters, confirmed the 60's don't have problem with the Marlin seals. It's an issue that apparently only occurs with the 80's.

$160 for the rebuild kit with the bearings. $18 for the Marlin seals.

On another note, I fired it up the other day and after it had idled for awhile, I noticed a bit of white smoke from beneath the hood. It seemed to be coming from near the exhaust manifold and smelled more like coolant than oil. Couldn't figure out the source. I'll look more closely...

Oh the joys of a new, completely unfamiliar vehicle!

Inukshuk
11-11-2013, 02:45 PM
Bryce, the guy at Cruiser Outfitters, confirmed the 60's don't have problem with the Marlin seals. It's an issue that apparently only occurs with the 80's.

All good!

bomber22
11-11-2013, 02:51 PM
white smoke could be a head gasket.

subzali
11-11-2013, 04:00 PM
white smoke could be a head gasket.

Hopefully it's just a leaky thermostat or radiator or something...

60wag
11-11-2013, 06:45 PM
There is a block drain valve below the exhaust manifold. If it's leaking, it could be dripping on the hot EGR pipe?

Opie
11-11-2013, 07:18 PM
My guess is a leaky coolant line of some sort. The engine wasn't overheating. Would a bad head gasket cause white smoke (likely water vapor) in the engine bay?

Anyway, you guys have been great. Thanks for all your feedback.

MDH33
11-30-2013, 08:11 AM
I'm pretty sure the white smoke from the driver side is coming from power steering fluid burning off. It's all over everything as the pump is leaking pretty bad.

Some pics of Opie's 60 getting some love. A little front axle refurb. They were leaking worse than the power steering pump. ;)

http://mdhuber.smugmug.com/photos/i-gt2KRZv/0/XL/i-gt2KRZv-XL.jpg

http://mdhuber.smugmug.com/photos/i-znvGZdC/0/XL/i-znvGZdC-XL.jpg

http://mdhuber.smugmug.com/photos/i-bCHVGd6/0/XL/i-bCHVGd6-XL.jpg

http://mdhuber.smugmug.com/photos/i-LsmHnbX/0/XL/i-LsmHnbX-XL.jpg

http://mdhuber.smugmug.com/photos/i-fNjJXDD/0/XL/i-fNjJXDD-XL.jpg

http://mdhuber.smugmug.com/photos/i-kfzjzWV/0/XL/i-kfzjzWV-XL.jpg

Doing the front brakes and all new bearings while they're apart. Need to get the rotors turned and finish the reassembly. More to come. :thumb::birf:

Rzeppa
12-02-2013, 07:50 PM
I'm pretty sure the white smoke from the driver side is coming from power steering fluid burning off. It's all over everything as the pump is leaking pretty bad.

Some pics of Opie's 60 getting some love. A little front axle refurb. They were leaking worse than the power steering pump. ;)

Doing the front brakes and all new bearings while they're apart. Need to get the rotors turned and finish the reassembly. More to come. :thumb::birf:

Sweet! Yeah I did the front brakes on my 60 at the same time I did the front knuckle rebuild when I first got it. Kind of a no-brainer "while you're in there". Just don't forget to bed the pads to the rotors when they are first installed.

MDH33
12-02-2013, 08:00 PM
Sweet! Yeah I did the front brakes on my 60 at the same time I did the front knuckle rebuild when I first got it. Kind of a no-brainer "while you're in there". Just don't forget to bed the pads to the rotors when they are first installed.

Getting new rotors too. :thumb: Old ones were too thin to turn again.

Hey Jeff, any chance you might be able to help me out with a few minutes of your time to weld a nut onto the diff fill plug? This one is stuck tight and all rounded off.

Rzeppa
12-02-2013, 08:14 PM
Getting new rotors too. :thumb: Old ones were too thin to turn again.

Hey Jeff, any chance you might be able to help me out with a few minutes of your time to weld a nut onto the diff fill plug? This one is stuck tight and all rounded off.

Sure, no problem. I would also suggest a method that has worked well for me in several instances, where I cut a slot onto the surface of the buggered fastener so as to get a large screwdriver onto it.

MDH33
12-02-2013, 08:19 PM
Sure, no problem. I would also suggest a method that has worked well for me in several instances, where I cut a slot onto the surface of the buggered fastener so as to get a large screwdriver onto it.

I couldn't get it to turn with a pipe wrench, so I doubt I could get better leverage with a screwdriver. :o. Hoping the heat from welding a nut on, and a good 6 point socket will do the trick.

Waiting on a couple of parts from Toyota. Will you be available sometime later this week once I have it rolling?

Rzeppa
12-03-2013, 07:35 PM
I couldn't get it to turn with a pipe wrench, so I doubt I could get better leverage with a screwdriver. :o. Hoping the heat from welding a nut on, and a good 6 point socket will do the trick.

Waiting on a couple of parts from Toyota. Will you be available sometime later this week once I have it rolling?

Yes, the only thing I have on my evening agenda is the meeting tomorrow night.

MDH33
12-16-2013, 05:13 PM
Thanks for the help on the Diff Plug Jeff. :thumb:

All finished with the knuckle job.

We ended up doing the birf repack, seals, bearings, pads, rotors, drain and fill on the diff with new plugs and a new fuel pump. ;)

http://mdhuber.smugmug.com/photos/i-n7MsJ7r/0/M/i-n7MsJ7r-M.jpg

http://mdhuber.smugmug.com/photos/i-kSfqrLC/0/M/i-kSfqrLC-M.jpg

http://mdhuber.smugmug.com/photos/i-V4bsqfs/0/M/i-V4bsqfs-M.jpg

nattybumppo
12-16-2013, 07:21 PM
Boy, that stuff is pretty when its clean!

Rzeppa
12-16-2013, 11:13 PM
Thanks for the help on the Diff Plug Jeff. :thumb:

What came out of the diff?

MDH33
12-17-2013, 07:00 AM
What came out of the diff?

No water thankfully, but very very black.

rover67
12-17-2013, 08:19 AM
Looks sweet!! "I very much suspect my front axle is overdue for a service"