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LARGEONE
12-08-2013, 09:53 AM
I'm getting closer to switching over from my annoying MV-50 OBA setup to installing my York 210L...but I have a few questions for the few who have done this already.

1) Did you use a check valve? If so, what type? And, wouldn't it need to be placed after the oil separator to ensure it doesn't get messed up with any oil coming out of the compressor? Also, should this be a far away from compressor outlet as possible, prior to manifold, in order to allow heat to dissipate?

2) My run from the compressor outlet to the manifold is at least 4 feet (from front right of engine to left firewall). I plan to use braided stainless hose unless it is outrageously priced. Any recommendations for where to buy stainless braided hose and who can put ends on it? Can a shop put any kind of ends on this hose? (Parker in Louisville?) What ends would be best to go to my compressor outlet if I have drilled it out with 3/8" NPT threads? I originally planned to use barbed fittings with clamps, but have been steered away from this in other threads on our great RS Forum!

3) What pressures are you allowing your systems to reach before shutting off? My current system is 85-105 PSI and seems to be fine. I've seen others run 90-120. The 120 PSI is appealing for some applications, but I'm thinking the higher the pressure, the more work I have to fix small leaks and the more often my compressor will kick on?

4) how long does the 210 York take to go from say 85 PSI to 105/120 PSI? I know this depends on how much storage you have, but I think my system will have a similar storage capacity as many of yours. I have a 2.5 gallon tank in the rear. I'm just wondering if it is 30 seconds or minutes to refresh to cutoff pressure. Right now, the MV-50 takes FOREVER!!!

5) side question...while I have the fan pulley off, what other maintenance items should I accomplish? I'm planning to do the other belts as well as the idler pulley on the A/C. Anything else I should consider? I was going to do the front crank seal, but my oil leak is really minimal...especially if I use the high mileage Mobil 1 oil. I only have to add about 1 quart in 8k miles. However, this would probably be a really good time to JUST DO IT!!! I have the gasket and everything, but I just don't have the 300 ft-lb tork wrench and huge socket, nor the expertise to do the engine bump, etc. OK...I think I am talking myself into doing this item as well!!! Anything else?

subzali
12-09-2013, 10:12 AM
I'm getting closer to switching over from my annoying MV-50 OBA setup to installing my York 210L...but I have a few questions for the few who have done this already.

1) Did you use a check valve? If so, what type? And, wouldn't it need to be placed after the oil separator to ensure it doesn't get messed up with any oil coming out of the compressor? Also, should this be a far away from compressor outlet as possible, prior to manifold, in order to allow heat to dissipate?

Here's what you need: before the oil separator is fine. It also has a pretty high temperature rating.
http://www.viaircorp.com/OffRoad/Parts/leaderhoses_cv.html

2) My run from the compressor outlet to the manifold is at least 4 feet (from front right of engine to left firewall). I plan to use braided stainless hose unless it is outrageously priced. Any recommendations for where to buy stainless braided hose and who can put ends on it? Can a shop put any kind of ends on this hose? (Parker in Louisville?) What ends would be best to go to my compressor outlet if I have drilled it out with 3/8" NPT threads? I originally planned to use barbed fittings with clamps, but have been steered away from this in other threads on our great RS Forum!

http://www.viaircorp.com/OffRoad/Parts/leaderhoses_cv.html

3) What pressures are you allowing your systems to reach before shutting off? My current system is 85-105 PSI and seems to be fine. I've seen others run 90-120. The 120 PSI is appealing for some applications, but I'm thinking the higher the pressure, the more work I have to fix small leaks and the more often my compressor will kick on?

I think I have a 90-120 pressure switch; for airing up tires I doubt you'll notice a difference.

4) how long does the 210 York take to go from say 85 PSI to 105/120 PSI? I know this depends on how much storage you have, but I think my system will have a similar storage capacity as many of yours. I have a 2.5 gallon tank in the rear. I'm just wondering if it is 30 seconds or minutes to refresh to cutoff pressure. Right now, the MV-50 takes FOREVER!!!

Closer to 30 seconds with no air tank. With an air tank maybe a couple minutes?

Marco has a really good writeup on MUD about his York install on his 5.3L powered 60:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/259374-borad-air-york-210-install.html

LARGEONE
12-09-2013, 02:55 PM
Thanks, Matt...I read Marco's write-up on Mud and Matt's posts on his system as well. There were just a few things I was struggling with. For example, I have found some braided hose that is AN6, but I'm not really sure how to get ends on it?

I think I'll swing by the Parker supply store in Louisville and see what I can find!

rover67
12-09-2013, 03:15 PM
for -AN hose you can order ends and make up the hoses yourself. There are TONS of options

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/hose-ends/hose-end-size/minus-6-an/hose-style/an-braided-stainless-steel?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=an%20hose%20fittings

here is one that goes directly from -6 AN to 3/8 pipe. seems handy..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-240115/overview/


The check valve can be right next to the compressor if it is one designed for high heat like the viair one that is linked above.

I can help you build the -AN hoses if you want.. it is easy but there are a few tricks. All you need are a few crescent wrenches, but having a vise to hold the hose end of the fitting can be helpful.

The nice thing about the AN hoses are you can build them at home.

I have mine set at 100PSI if I remember correctly.. I wouldn't worry about runnng a higher pressure but I think the Yorks don't work well over 150psi. 120 would work fine.

My system pumps up from zero to 100 psi in less than a minute at idle? I think I have about 2 gallons of capacity? maybe? It's fast. in between tires it almost gets back up to full pressure before I start filling the next tire.

60wag
12-09-2013, 04:46 PM
You can get teflon lined braided hose from Grainger with ends already on it.

I put a combo check valve/unloader on mine at the compressor. You don't really need the unloader with this setup but I would do a check valve.

I have my oil trap up on the fire wall away from the compressor. The air is a bit cooler there further from the compressor - more of the oil will drop out and the polycarb bowl should last longer with less heat.

My shut off switch is set to 100 psi, I think it comes back on at 80. Make sure you have a safety relief valve in the system. I have two quick disconnects on mine: the one in back is most convenient but the one under the hood is handy when the rear one gets crusted up with mud or ice. I've got a 2 gallon tank mounted under the rear floor.

LARGEONE
12-09-2013, 05:01 PM
Awesome info...thanks, guys! Marco...I'll see what I end up with for hose and might call for some help with the ends if needed. I think I'm really close!

nakman
12-09-2013, 05:15 PM
One of the better things I learned from my OBA setup that I will offer is installing a couple ball valves. One just after the manifold, essentially to shut off the system (put one port on the manifold for an air hose so you can still air up in this manner if need be). Add another valve to shut off the storage tank. The benefit is being able to run the system in a tighter more contained manner for troubleshooting the switches, chasing leaks, etc. And/or bypass the tank, if you think that's adding delay or has additional leaks.

Example is on the way back from the Rubicon, one of my hoses running to the slider popped off- I was using both a slider and tank in back for storage. I could shut all that off and just plug my airline into the manifold, to still air up. Sure beats a field repair.. fix that junk back at home. Although that was perhaps more a lesson in not using hose clamps. :)

subzali
12-09-2013, 05:45 PM
One of the better things I learned from my OBA setup that I will offer is installing a couple ball valves. One just after the manifold, essentially to shut off the system (put one port on the manifold for an air hose so you can still air up in this manner if need be). Add another valve to shut off the storage tank. The benefit is being able to run the system in a tighter more contained manner for troubleshooting the switches, chasing leaks, etc. And/or bypass the tank, if you think that's adding delay or has additional leaks.

Example is on the way back from the Rubicon, one of my hoses running to the slider popped off- I was using both a slider and tank in back for storage. I could shut all that off and just plug my airline into the manifold, to still air up. Sure beats a field repair.. fix that junk back at home. Although that was perhaps more a lesson in not using hose clamps. :)

Or a lesson on KISS ;)

LARGEONE
12-09-2013, 11:43 PM
Looks like there is a difference between the hose ends for PTFE hose and rubber hose. Both of them don't look too hard to do yourself. Thanks for the recommendations. Now I just need to finalize my manifold location, etc. so I can order the right size fittings and hose lengths!

Marco...is this how you made your braided ARBLocker lines?

rover67
12-10-2013, 12:36 AM
Yes, the hose ends are specific to the type of hose you use. Also, there are different hose end manufacturers. I really don't like Earl's but Summit and Aeroquip are really nice. the Earl's ones are basically single use, especially the ones for rubber hose. The rubber gets jammed in them and they are impossible to clean and use again.

I did use The teflon lined stuff for my locker lines. I want to say i used -3.

If I were you i'd make the leader hose out of the teflon lined stuff and use -6 like you are planning. you could probably get away with using the braided rubber hose but the cost difference won't be that much and the teflon stuff will never give you any trouble. It's ridiculous the heat and pressure they are rated for.

LARGEONE
12-10-2013, 03:15 PM
Looks like 400 degrees and 2000 pounds! My plan is to use the teflon...once I figure out exactly what my lengths will be. Where did you pick up your aluminum manifold?

rover67
12-10-2013, 03:20 PM
manifold was an ebay purchase if I remember correctly...

there are tons for super cheap on there:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=air+manifold+aluminum&_pgn=3&_skc=100&rt=nc

rover67
12-10-2013, 03:22 PM
or amazon if that's yer poison

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=air%20manifold%20aluminum

Jacket
12-10-2013, 04:13 PM
I thought the Kilby deal with the mounting bracket, coalescing filter and check valve combo was pretty slick, so I bought their package. Not cheap but a nice setup and it makes it relatively easy to mount the filter to the firewall.

I had these guys make my steel braided hose:

http://www.airbagit.com/v/vspfiles/pages/AirFittings_PAGE.html

I think it was ~ $30 for my piece with ends. Unfortunately I estimated a few inches too short but I managed to pull it together with no slack left.

My system still has a couple of leaks, but when that compressor is on the system reaches pressure FAST, and works "optimally" at around 100-110 PSI.

Inukshuk
12-10-2013, 08:20 PM
Do you need a triple pulley? I may know a guy with one.

LARGEONE
12-11-2013, 10:03 PM
http://www.amazon.com/Unisource-Chemical-Assembly-Connection-Pressure/dp/B007USNQVA/ref=sr_1_27?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1386820589&sr=1-27&keywords=AN+6+3%2F8%22+NPT

Man...I already purchased my PTFE hose material and AN 6 ends, but then I came across this hose option on Amazon. Already has NPT fittings on the end which is really nice and not too bad a price....lots of length options too! Oh well!

LARGEONE
12-11-2013, 10:05 PM
Do you need a triple pulley? I may know a guy with one.

I have one that came with my bracket, but you should really see what you can get for it on Mud...there are always people who miss the group buys that are offering up their houses and millions of dollars for a triple pulley!!! Seriously, you could probably get a lot of money with a bid war on that thing!!!

LARGEONE
12-29-2013, 08:38 PM
I finally got some time over the last few days to get the York mounted. I ran into issues with the bracket I bought through MUD...the pulley and bracket were kind of skewed and didn't line up right with the fan pulley. Thanks to a post by our own Jacket, I was able to space it out a little bit with a couple of washers. It looks pretty good now.

So, now I just need to figure out how I want to run all my plumbing...for the air horn, the gauge in the cab, and for the lockers! Lots of fun stuff!35817

Jacket
12-30-2013, 01:30 PM
Nice. The plumbing is a pain in the ass.... :)

One thing I noticed on mine was after I added the washers, the nut that holds the adjuster pulley in place was only about 2/3 of the way on the threads. I added a little non-permanent Loctite to make sure the nut doesn't vibrate off.

LARGEONE
12-30-2013, 09:49 PM
Thanks Matt. I actually ended up not spacing my pulley...only the two bracket bolts on the engine closest to the front of the engine.

My plumbing is REALLY a PIA because I have the air horn and in-cab line.

jps8460
12-30-2013, 11:15 PM
I'm sure this has been beat to death somewhere, just though I would toss it in because the info saved us from loosing a feature win due to a dry sump pressure line leak......

most parker/gates hose places sell sae37deg/JIC fittings/hoses that will work interchangeably with any -AN fitting you buy. they are steel, heavy and not as nice looking, but it gets the job done.

A tractor supply store with a gates crimping tool and nice hose selection saved our butts in the middle of nebrasky :)