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Shark Bait
01-06-2014, 10:59 AM
I have an oil leak on my wife's '85 2WD Toyota PU. It looks like it might be coming from the oil pump cover, which is behind the flywheel pulley. Does anyone have a recommendation for someone down south who would do a good job repairing this? I know there are some techs on the forum, here. Would any of you be willing to take on the job?

Thanks.

DaveInDenver
01-06-2014, 11:06 AM
The front main seal on a 20/22R isn't difficult if you wanted to do it yourself. I know one member who's done such an R&R in the Loveland Ski Area parking lot, even. The one gotcha with the front main is the crank pulley has maybe developed a groove from the seal lip. There is a speedy sleeve available to solve that.

subzali
01-06-2014, 03:23 PM
Make sure you get the bit back on crazy tight or the harmonic balancer and woodruff key will eat your crankshaft. I would take it in to toy car care on arapahoe if you're looking for someone to do it

nuclearlemon
01-06-2014, 04:00 PM
as mentioned, it's pretty easy. i just redid the front main because the aftermarket one that was in the kit was crap, now i have to replace the oring because the aftermarket one that was in the kit is crap. took about 40 minutes total.

L43dean
01-06-2014, 09:27 PM
The front main seal on a 20/22R isn't difficult if you wanted to do it yourself. I know one member who's done such an R&R in the Loveland Ski Area parking lot, even. The one gotcha with the front main is the crank pulley has maybe developed a groove from the seal lip. There is a speedy sleeve available to solve that.

Don't fret about a crank groove. The TOYOTA replacement seal, 90311-45014, has the lip 3/16" further forward from the old seal. I replaced mine in the 85' 22R last spring. A straightforward repair. However I did also have the radiator out for repairs and did replace the water pump, alternator, hoses and belts.

Shark Bait
01-06-2014, 10:17 PM
Don't fret about a crank groove. The TOYOTA replacement seal, 90311-45014, has the lip 3/16" further forward from the old seal. I replaced mine in the 85' 22R last spring. A straightforward repair. However I did also have the radiator out for repairs and did replace the water pump, alternator, hoses and belts.

OK. Maybe I can trade you some Land Cruiser parts in exchange for some help! ;)

Shark Bait
01-07-2014, 02:23 PM
The book talks about pulling the oil pan. Yes/No?

DaveInDenver
01-07-2014, 02:30 PM
For a front main or oil pump seal? Not sure why but the book for my '91 says that, too, now that I look. I don't see any reason to go to that trouble.

Some people leave the pan in place when they do a timing chain, but my $0.02 is that's tempting Murphy too much. Guaranteed way to end up dropping a socket in there.

I suspect that's why the reason, dropping a Woodruff key in the pan. Just take your time and don't pull the oil pump spline drive gear out. There's keys in the crank that keep it from spinning on the crank.

nuclearlemon
01-07-2014, 02:35 PM
no need to pull pan. pull belts. pull damper. pull oil pump. reinstall. you don't even need to pull radiator.

as for front cover without pulling pan, it does work. i did clampys timing chain without pulling the pan or head. piece of cake.

DaveInDenver
01-07-2014, 02:45 PM
I know it can be done by bending the lip of the pan, just don't like doing it that way. Either way there's no reason to pull it working on the oil pump.