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Rzeppa
03-17-2014, 01:14 PM
Here's an emblem I made for C-Dan's BJ74. I think he's going to have me make some quantity of them for him to sell on Mud. He is planning on painting the red on himself. Personally, I'd be inclined to make the letters separate, print them in red and glue them on.

http://american3dprinting.net/gallery/albums/Stuff-We-ve-Made/IMGP5337.jpg

http://american3dprinting.net/gallery/albums/Stuff-We-ve-Made/Turbo%20Emblem.JPG

AxleIke
03-17-2014, 01:32 PM
Oh, way cool!

MDH33
03-17-2014, 02:01 PM
Awesome Jeff!

Do you recall the picture of the 60 with the home made "prius-toric" emblem? How much to make a batch of those?

wesintl
03-17-2014, 02:27 PM
I ended up just buying the chrome one from toyota. How much does it cost to produce one?

Rzeppa
03-17-2014, 11:12 PM
Awesome Jeff!

Do you recall the picture of the 60 with the home made "prius-toric" emblem? How much to make a batch of those?

No I don't, but I charge $40/hr design time (start-up cheap - try getting a shop to work on your rig for that).

Dan's emblems will cost anywhere from $10-$15 each, depending on his choice of materials and build details. Builds go for $20/hr (1/2 off that for Rising Sun members).

Rzeppa
03-18-2014, 05:56 PM
Even though he was planning on painting the lettering red, I went ahead and split the letters out from the base of the 3D model and printed them separately with red PLA just to see what it would look like. Once I had assembled it I could see that the radii on the lower left corner of the "T", the right two corners of the"B" and all 4 corners of the "O" were too sharp, so I increased their radii from 2mm to 4mm. It looks a lot more true to the original now.

http://american3dprinting.net/gallery/albums/Stuff-We-ve-Made/IMGP5339.JPG

PabloCruise
03-19-2014, 10:18 AM
Those look very nice!

rover67
03-19-2014, 10:54 AM
looking good!

can you print in material that can be burned out in a burnout oven?

I have done it with the photocurable polymers (for Objet and stuff) but was wondering if you had stuff that was specifically for burning out in an oven (low ash).

cruiserdan
03-19-2014, 05:18 PM
This is very cool. Thanks Jeff!

cruiserdan
03-19-2014, 05:19 PM
Here's the truck the prototypes are going on:

MDH33
03-19-2014, 05:29 PM
Here's the truck the prototypes are going on:

That's a beauty!:thumb:

Rzeppa
03-19-2014, 07:28 PM
Here's the truck the prototypes are going on:

Sweet! I want one!

Inside joke for RS members who follow my posts and Steve H's reply - I went shopping for a Sienna and came home with a BJ74 :p:

Rzeppa
03-19-2014, 07:47 PM
looking good!

can you print in material that can be burned out in a burnout oven?

I have done it with the photocurable polymers (for Objet and stuff) but was wondering if you had stuff that was specifically for burning out in an oven (low ash).

The quick answer is no, not a material that is intended for that, that I know of. Any plastic can be burned out with sufficient heat, I have no idea what's left behind, I suppose it would depend on the temperature and ventilation of the cavity.

3D printers are available (I don't have any at the store, but a local jeweler does) that print in wax for lost wax castings. They also make 3D printers that print in sand for sand castings. According to 3D printing news sources, these sand printers are widely used by the auto industry and machinery manufacturers.

Objet (a subsidiary of Stratasys, who also owns Makerbot, my go-to printer) makes some really nice machines. I had my eye on a Connex 260 which uses their patented "polyjet" process, much like an inkjet it expels tiny droplets of vaporized polymer in up to 17 different heads with a wide variety of colors and materials. I asked my reseller for a quote and it came back at $170k. If I could justify the ROI I'd have one, but for now I am still navigating uncharted waters with this retail 3D store concept. So far I am really, really busy and am looking forward to hiring my first employee within the next few weeks.

I currently have 9 different materials to choose from in nearly 40 colors, including engineering grade nylon, PET and HIPS, in addition to the common PLA and ABS that everyone is using.

Inukshuk
03-19-2014, 10:43 PM
Here's the truck the prototypes are going on:

:thumb:

nakman
03-20-2014, 10:00 PM
Those emblems look great! :bowdown: I love this stuff. :)

Rzeppa
07-14-2014, 06:03 PM
FJ55 Glovebox door handles. Former Rising Sun member and current Horsetooth member TJ Scholand has sold about 15 of these on Mud.

Rzeppa
07-14-2014, 06:11 PM
We now have Ninjaflex! This is a rubber-like thermoplastic urethane. It is about as rubbery as real rubber or Buna-N. It should be chemically compatible with anything that Urethane is. The durometer seems to feel like around 70 or so, very similar to o-ring rubber.

This customer brought in his shower diverter cartridge, with disintegrated rubber seal. We designed and built him a replacement seal - for $15.08.

MTSN
07-14-2014, 06:13 PM
Super cool stuff Jeff!

nuclearlemon
07-15-2014, 06:43 AM
will that work to make the diaphrams for transfer cases? i think terry gave you my old one

Rzeppa
07-15-2014, 06:27 PM
will that work to make the diaphrams for transfer cases? i think terry gave you my old one

Yes, I have one Terry gave me to model. I am sure the material will work - the build geometry for that particular part might be tricky. If it were flat instead of bowl (dish?) shaped it would be a snap.

PabloCruise
08-13-2014, 01:05 PM
FJ55 Glovebox door handles. Former Rising Sun member and current Horsetooth member TJ Scholand has sold about 15 of these on Mud.

Uh-oh, I better get down there to a meeting and pay my dues! I'd like that to read "current Rising Sun member". How did it get to be August already?!?

Jeff did indeed make up two batches of these for me and the Iron Pig community has been enthusiastic about them!

Thanks Jeff...

Rzeppa
08-14-2014, 08:32 AM
Uh-oh, I better get down there to a meeting and pay my dues! I'd like that to read "current Rising Sun member". How did it get to be August already?!?

Jeff did indeed make up two batches of these for me and the Iron Pig community has been enthusiastic about them!

Thanks Jeff...

Of course you can always come to the Rally on the 23rd, or if you don't want to make the drive we take Paypal or you could mail a check. Renewing members don't have to go through the voting stuff or the secret handshake...;)

PabloCruise
08-14-2014, 05:28 PM
The Rally sounds good! Barring any major disruptions I'll be there w/ a dues check.

I'll bring my original fixed window rubber for you to take a look at as well. If you can replicate the OEM, it will save some headaches. It is nice that there is currently an option, but it is not perfect. :-(

rover67
08-14-2014, 07:06 PM
If ya want me to try and model something let me know.

simps80
08-14-2014, 10:55 PM
Jeff,
When working on the seats we found a plug in one if the headrest holes.

Doing some research I found that in 76 headrests were an option and if you didn't get them the slots were plugged...
So...
I wonder if this is something that could be made?

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/did-the-76-fj40-have-head-rests.481172/page-2

38211

38212

It's kind of rubbery...I dont know..I just think it would be cool.
Maybe I can bring it in and see what you think.

Rzeppa
08-15-2014, 12:09 AM
Jeff,
When working on the seats we found a plug in one if the headrest holes.

Doing some research I found that in 76 headrests were an option and if you didn't get them the slots were plugged...
So...
I wonder if this is something that could be made?

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/did-the-76-fj40-have-head-rests.481172/page-2

38211

38212

It's kind of rubbery...I dont know..I just think it would be cool.
Maybe I can bring it in and see what you think.

Of course we can make that :cheers:

Romer
08-16-2014, 05:09 PM
How about 40 dash control knobs with different names on them like "AC Pull" in place of Fresh Pull and one that's says "Heat Pull"

Might have a few others as I have a blank spot and two switches ( Fan and Choke) that are no longer used. Maybe AUX Lights, AIR, R- Diff and F-Diff

That should cover all the things I can think of. Guess I should go see if the switches Knobs screw on the same as the pull knobs

AxleIke
08-16-2014, 07:30 PM
Can't believe I missed this before. How about other OEM style switch covers? Something where we could go pull a switch from the yard, pull the cover, and have a FR diff lock or Compressor switch using a stock unit?

Rzeppa
08-16-2014, 10:46 PM
How about 40 dash control knobs with different names on them like "AC Pull" in place of Fresh Pull and one that's says "Heat Pull"

Might have a few others as I have a blank spot and two switches ( Fan and Choke) that are no longer used. Maybe AUX Lights, AIR, R- Diff and F-Diff

That should cover all the things I can think of. Guess I should go see if the switches Knobs screw on the same as the pull knobs

That's pretty easy. All we need are the dimensions and requested labels.

Rzeppa
08-16-2014, 10:53 PM
Can't believe I missed this before. How about other OEM style switch covers? Something where we could go pull a switch from the yard, pull the cover, and have a FR diff lock or Compressor switch using a stock unit?

Hi Isaac,

Send me an existing object like TJ did with his broken glovebox door handle, and we can measure it and make a 3D model of it, then customize it in whatever way you wish. Then we can fabricate it in 3D printing.

Alternatively, send me your 3D model and we'll build it in whatever material or color you want.

Definition: A 3D model is a computer file that defines a 3D object - *.STL is the universal language of 3D printing, but if you design it in Solidworks or any number of other 3D CAD programs we can easily work with that also.

AxleIke
08-17-2014, 09:08 PM
Awesome Jeff!! I'll have to go grab a switch from a junk yard, but I have the perfect couple of switch places that would be AWESOME to have custom!

PabloCruise
08-18-2014, 12:49 PM
If ya want me to try and model something let me know.

Thanks Marco, let me show Jeff the rubber at the Rally and see if he thinks this is something he can/wants to produce.

If yes, then it would only be a question of if he wants a model created, or model it himself...

Rzeppa
01-26-2015, 03:54 PM
mmK_LWOqRp8

The guy uploaded the files to Thingiverse, so if anyone wants, I can build this for you:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:644933

60wag
01-26-2015, 06:28 PM
That is very cool. It helps that the timing is with gears rather than a chain.

Have you printed a chain yet?

Romer
01-26-2015, 07:11 PM
that is cool

Rzeppa
01-26-2015, 10:22 PM
That is very cool. It helps that the timing is with gears rather than a chain.

Have you printed a chain yet?

Yes I have built chains, no not this one ;)

Hulk
01-26-2015, 11:20 PM
Okay, above I tried using the Youtube button on the editing bar and it appears blank to me, so here;s the link:
FIFY - look at the code view and you will see how to do it.

...so if anyone wants, I can build this for you:

What would a model like that cost? I could see that being very useful for the education of teenagers interested in the inner workings of an engine.

Rzeppa
01-27-2015, 08:14 PM
FIFY - look at the code view and you will see how to do it.

Is code view a button in this vBulletin forum, or something in Youtube? I tried copying and pasting both the Youtube URL, and subsequently the "embedded" html that Youtube offers into the Youtube brackets in vBulletin, neither worked here.

What would a model like that cost? I could see that being very useful for the education of teenagers interested in the inner workings of an engine.

If someone was seriously interested I could work up a quote. Based on experience a shoot from the hip guesstimate would be many hundreds of dollars. More than a hundred, less than a thousand.

Hulk
01-28-2015, 01:05 PM
Is code view a button in this vBulletin forum, or something in Youtube? I tried copying and pasting both the Youtube URL, and subsequently the "embedded" html that Youtube offers into the Youtube brackets in vBulletin, neither worked here.

Just click on the "edit" button on that post and you can see how it's done.

It should look like this:
40447

Rzeppa
01-28-2015, 05:32 PM
Just click on the "edit" button on that post and you can see how it's done.

It should look like this:
40447

Oh I see. I was embedding the entire URL between the UBB brackets. Thanks!

Rzeppa
02-23-2015, 12:33 PM
FJ55 tail light seal made of Ninjaflex:
http://american3dprinting.net/gallery/albums/Stuff-We-ve-Made/IMGP58261024.JPG

Rzeppa
02-23-2015, 12:34 PM
FJ55 backup light bucket:
http://american3dprinting.net/gallery/albums/Stuff-We-ve-Made/IMGP57771024.jpg

Rzeppa
02-23-2015, 12:36 PM
FJ55 backup light lens. The original is in the foreground, prototype is behind it, built with translucent ABS.
http://american3dprinting.net/gallery/albums/Stuff-We-ve-Made/IMGP58251024.JPG

cruiseroutfit
02-23-2015, 07:40 PM
Hmmm, that is exciting. How are the lens gaskets? Pretty flexible?

Any clearer options on lenses? How about Amber/Red?

Rzeppa
02-23-2015, 08:39 PM
Hmmm, that is exciting. How are the lens gaskets? Pretty flexible?

Yes, 85 durometer, shore A. Not quite as flexible as natural rubber, but pretty close.

Any clearer options on lenses? How about Amber/Red?

Yes, that was translucent ABS, we're going to try a build with PET (that's the plastic they make water bottles and soda bottle out of). Building with PET is way slower than ABS, 30mm/sec vs. 90mm/sec.

Yes on the amber and red, but only in PLA (Poly Lactic Acid), which isn't as weather resistant as ABS or PET and therefore must be clearcoated with urethane or lacquer for outdoor applications.

We're currently designing pig grill front marker lights for TJ Scholand of Horsetooth Landcruisers, they will be amber.

Note that the above parts are being designed and produced for John Russo, AKA SLOCRUISERs and can be purchased from him on his web site (http://slocruisers.com/) once he gets into production on them.

cruiseroutfit
02-24-2015, 10:47 PM
Cool, I'm excited to see these neat parts becoming a possibility. I've got some low production Stout stuff that I need to have you quote.

Rzeppa
02-25-2015, 05:22 PM
Here are amber front grill marker light lenses for a pig:

http://american3dprinting.net/images/IMGP58271024.jpg

rover67
02-25-2015, 07:07 PM
Jeff, Have you tried to sand and polish the lenses? I wonder if that'd work.

Super cool that you're using additive mfg for making cruiser parts. way cool.

cruiseroutfit
02-26-2015, 09:49 PM
Jeff, Have you tried to sand and polish the lenses? I wonder if that'd work.

Super cool that you're using additive mfg for making cruiser parts. way cool.

x2, I wonder if a sand and clear coat with smooth them up a bit and help mellow out the color/texture.

Rzeppa
02-04-2016, 05:29 PM
My 1971 FJ40 had a disintegrated defroster duct. I got some replacement hose from a guy on Mud who was selling it as a replacement hose for FJ60 air cleaner hose. The ends where the hose attaches to the rig were cracked and dry rotted, so we built new ends out of Ninjaflex. Fits like a glove!

cruiseroutfit
02-08-2016, 11:21 PM
Very cool!

Rzeppa
02-08-2016, 11:44 PM
Very cool!

I need to send you some samples of those Ninjaflex 40 door hinge seals. It's on my to-do list ;)

Rzeppa
01-24-2017, 02:10 PM
Here are some backup sensor adapters we made for Christo. They are made out of the rubber-like Ninjaflex.

Rzeppa
01-24-2017, 02:12 PM
This is a replacement fuel sender gasket for a 40. The Ninjaflex is made out of TPU (Thermoplastic Urethane) elastomer. It resists aromatic hydrocarbons like gasoline but will last far longer than the natural rubber one it is replacing.

Rzeppa
01-24-2017, 02:15 PM
My pinion seal was leaking so I replaced it. I couldn't get a regular seal driver to work because the pinion was in the way, so I used a hub socket. I ended up driving it in crooked and it is still leaking! :mad::rant:

So I designed and built an SST specially made for driving in the pinion seal while the pinion is still sticking out. This one is made of Taulman 3D's Bridge nylon, which has a tensile strength of about 4,800 pounds.

DanS
01-24-2017, 04:00 PM
My pinion seal was leaking so I replaced it. I couldn't get a regular seal driver to work because the pinion was in the way, so I used a hub socket. I ended up driving it in crooked and it is still leaking! :mad::rant:

So I designed and built an SST specially made for driving in the pinion seal while the pinion is still sticking out. This one is made of Taulman 3D's Bridge nylon, which has a tensile strength of about 4,800 pounds.

That is slick!

Much nicer than the one I made out of a 2x4 with a hole in it.

Dan

Inukshuk
01-25-2017, 08:44 AM
Way cool

OilHammer
01-25-2017, 10:45 AM
Sweet!

Lastresort576
01-26-2017, 12:25 AM
looks like that might work for the front crank seal on an 80? or too long to fit between the rad & block? I 'm a fan regardless.

Rzeppa
01-28-2017, 02:56 PM
looks like that might work for the front crank seal on an 80? or too long to fit between the rad & block? I 'm a fan regardless.

I don't know about an 80 but I know on my 40s and 60 there's no way without pulling the radiator to pull the crank pulley off anyway. On a 40, it's pretty easy to use a seal driver on it because it has to go in the back side of the timing gear cover so you have to take the timing gear cover off anyway.

PabloCruise
01-31-2017, 02:40 PM
My pinion seal was leaking so I replaced it. I couldn't get a regular seal driver to work because the pinion was in the way, so I used a hub socket. I ended up driving it in crooked and it is still leaking! :mad::rant:

So I designed and built an SST specially made for driving in the pinion seal while the pinion is still sticking out. This one is made of Taulman 3D's Bridge nylon, which has a tensile strength of about 4,800 pounds.

That is nice!

Rzeppa
02-01-2017, 12:26 PM
I was talking to C-Dan the other day, and discovered that Toyota uses the exact same pinion seal in almost all their 4x4 differentials, from land Cruisers (practically all years that he had knowledge of), 4Runners, Mini Trucks, even some of their passenger cars! So I decided to make several of these to give away at the Cruise Moab Raffle. They are an 18 hour build and use about 250 grams of nylon. List price if someone just had me build one for them would be about $371.23/ea.

MDH33
02-12-2017, 04:46 PM
Hi Jeff, What would you say is the best 3D printer under $5000?

Rzeppa
02-12-2017, 09:16 PM
Hi Jeff, What would you say is the best 3D printer under $5000?

We have machines we sell that run between $599 to over $50k. The one that made the seal driver (Lulzbot TAZ 6 (https://www.lulzbot.com/store/printers/lulzbot-taz-6)) is $2,500 and is a damn good machine, large build volume, very versatile, very reliable and with with excellent tech support.

Ask for the "best" (and get customers who ask that all the time) is like asking "What's the best car?"

Well, they each have their pros and cons. If you want to haul a bunch of stuff you want a pickup truck. If you want to take the kids to soccer practice a mini van might be the best. If you want to go fast, a sports car would be the best, and of course if you want to drive off road then a Land Cruiser would be best.

The Makerbot Rep 2s are blazing fast, really reliable (unlike the newer 5th Gen versions) easy to use, decent build volume and reasonably versatile. The TAZs are slower, more versatile, more expensive, typically lower build quality (depends on slicing software). The Lulzbot Mini (https://www.lulzbot.com/store/printers/lulzbot-mini) is really easy for first timers, but has a smallish build volume and needs to be tethered to a computer to run.

One of the cool things about owning your own 3D printer is that once you have one, all kinds of personal uses come up that you hadn't thought of until you had that thing in with your tool set. For example, my wife and I came home one night to a pile of broken glass on the kitchen floor and a missing ceiling light diffuser. Home Depot doesn't carry the lenses, just entire fixtures. Well I didn't want to buy and install an entire fixture so I just 3D designed and printed a replacement.

Making SSTs is another obvious one too ;)

MDH33
02-15-2017, 07:22 AM
Good info, thanks Jeff. My wife Kim is interested in one for her medical/biological illustration program at ISU. They would be making scietific models, organic forms etc. I think Luzbot and cube pro were 2 they were considering. So are speed and quality the two main factors? I assume there are a lot of different materials and computer system requirements as well?

Rzeppa
02-15-2017, 08:14 AM
In addition to speed and quality, build volume, software and material versatility are very important. The Cube pro (which we sell) uses proprietary software and you are stuck with 3D Systems' proprietary materials, limited to ABS and nylon. The Lulzbot uses open source, industry-standard software available from many different sources and can build with just about any FDM material from any supplier. We build with over 2 dozen different materials.

We sell more Lulzbots than all the rest of makes and models put together.

Cocarlisle
02-16-2017, 12:31 PM
My pinion seal was leaking so I replaced it. I couldn't get a regular seal driver to work because the pinion was in the way, so I used a hub socket. I ended up driving it in crooked and it is still leaking! :mad::rant:

So I designed and built an SST specially made for driving in the pinion seal while the pinion is still sticking out. This one is made of Taulman 3D's Bridge nylon, which has a tensile strength of about 4,800 pounds.
Very slick Jeff!!!!!

nnnnnate
03-24-2017, 07:56 AM
Jeff, do you have or know of an .stl of a 40 series lc? I've wanted to print a matchbox size 40 for a while and would love to print some and stick them in the WC geocache.

I got my first printer a couple Christmases ago from my wife, a printrbot play that I've fiddled with and then bought a Taz6 in January. The Taz6 prints much better and I'm very happy with it but both have treated me well.

Rzeppa
03-25-2017, 02:06 PM
Jeff, do you have or know of an .stl of a 40 series lc? I've wanted to print a matchbox size 40 for a while and would love to print some and stick them in the WC geocache.

I got my first printer a couple Christmases ago from my wife, a printrbot play that I've fiddled with and then bought a Taz6 in January. The Taz6 prints much better and I'm very happy with it but both have treated me well.

Short answer, no I don't. Wish I did!

We sell Printrbots and Lulzbots. Well we did sell Printrbots until they discontinued the Simple Metal (which sells for $599) and the new one is $999. What does that extra $400 buy you? WiFi and a touch screen. Big whoopdee ding! Actually the Simple Metal is a pretty good machine, I have no experience with the Play. But the TAZ is an awesome machine. Did you know we were Aleph Object's very first Lulzbot reseller?

Let me know if you need any toolheads or parts. We also stock stuff like replacement PEI sheets for the bed. And of course we carry hundreds of SKUs of different filament in around 28 or 29 different materials and a rainbow of colors.

nnnnnate
03-27-2017, 11:19 AM
I'll need a replacement PEI at some point, I've got a ding in mine but I've been able to work around it well enough. I have also considered getting a flexistruder to be able to print TPU and whatnot but haven't felt like spending the coin for one yet. (I do print TPU on my printrbot play already...)

I managed to buy a whole slew of filament right after Christmas so I think I'll be good for a while but I'll keep you guys in mind when I'm ready for more.

RockOn
07-17-2017, 04:28 PM
Any chance you'd rent that pinion seal driver out? It's been sitting on my to do list for some time, but pushed back until I solved the dilemma of what to drive it in with.

Rzeppa
07-17-2017, 06:15 PM
Any chance you'd rent that pinion seal driver out? It's been sitting on my to do list for some time, but pushed back until I solved the dilemma of what to drive it in with.

I'll be more than happy to loan it to any Rising Sun member for free, although some :beer: is always appreciated!

RockOn
07-19-2017, 01:21 PM
10-4. I'll get parts on order and shoot you a message when they arrive, thanks.