View Full Version : Fuel Pump

09-25-2006, 09:53 AM
what are folks doing for fuel pumps on early 40's? up to 76? using the 76-78?

My fuel pump was spewing fuel. I put on one el jefe gave me off a 64 and it was even worse. Fuel spill as big as the cruiser underneth. :rant:

Toyota doesn't have any old ones nor do they make overhaul kits. I ordered a 76-78 but the intake to the pump is different than the early style. I guess I'll try and get some fittings to adapt it..:o

Anyone BTDT?:thumb:

09-25-2006, 11:03 AM
IIRC, there is a difference in the lever between early and later pumps that makes them incompatable. When mine was leaking I had to find someone with one that worked. But I'm saving my old one in hopes that someday somebody will make a rebuild kit!:thumb:

09-25-2006, 11:44 AM
I've heard that you can just buy diaphram material and overhaul it. I haven't looked into that.

The lever is the same it's just whether or not you need to use a spacer. The later 2f's I believe you do on the F's I don't think you need to. Mine doesn't have a spacer so I don't think i'll need it. Initial thoughs have been to buy the new one and use the new parts to rebuild the old one. I dunno if i'm going that route though. I'll most likely use the new one and use a L bend if needed from the local ace or whatever.

09-25-2006, 02:07 PM
electric ;)

09-25-2006, 02:46 PM
The fuel pump style is basicly the same from 1958-12/78. The new style ran from 1/79-8/87 but you will need a spacer to adapt the new stlye to an older engine.

I was working on finding all the subtle differences at one point. Starting in around 73?, there are two input bosses on the pump. When the new style oil filter was adapted, 73/74, they moved it from the inboard hole to the other one. Before that, it was a straight fitting, after there were a few different versions. The really early ones had the self priming lever.

Carquest sometimes carries OE pumps. Napa, checker, sor, all carry the sme aftermarket brand. I prefer OE.

In the 2nd pic down you can see the two input bosses. Only one is drilled and tapped. In approx 73/74 there was an angled fitting so this one will come up differently in the parts books.

09-25-2006, 04:09 PM
the first 2 are in a nut shell the same pump.

The one I ordered has a soft line barb 76-78 input and the output is the same. At least I can use my exiting fitting. The intake looks like I can unscrew the rubber hose barb and use my existing fitting but it's vertical. I need to use a 90* and then hopefully the existing line will reach.

I could try cacrquest. The napa pump looks to be what I want.

10-01-2006, 03:59 PM
I ordered the one above and removed the 90*. I didn't use an insulator block. One, because I don't have one and two, the spring measured the same distance from the mounting surface as the old ones. This was a Beck Arnley but inside the box was a kyokian Densi (japan) or whatever they call themselves. :D

10-03-2006, 12:13 AM
Looks good. Wes, I need to come over to your house and drink some beer in your garage.

11-02-2006, 03:42 PM

I guess I could overhaul the oem pump at some point. :cool:

11-02-2006, 03:49 PM
I think I got my replacement fuel pump for less than that, which makes me wonder if you (read SOR, CCOT, whoever else) could make any money selling a rebuild kit for the pumps. Probably not, since the pumps seem to be pretty cheap.

11-02-2006, 03:58 PM
Replacement for less than $34? I think i paid $60 or $70

It's worth it to rebuild an early pump if you have the hand primer pump on it otherwise I see no need to rebuild other than it's fun and you take your chances :eek:

11-02-2006, 04:26 PM
I see no reason why that wouldn't work fine, if you were careful. I've rebuilt brake master cylinders, and plan to rebuild my front calipers on the 80 soon.

11-02-2006, 04:45 PM
Replacement for less than $34?
Actually $34.05 after shipping from SOR :hill:
But I did get one for about $11 from a guy on MUD, unfortunately it was the wrong one :(
I wouldn't think there would be any reason a rebuild wouldn't work, it's just a ripped diaphram that causes the leaks normally, so it's not like MY brake master that had pitted walls :( unfortunately I couldn't rebuild that one.

11-02-2006, 04:48 PM
oh that's for used, no? I had a used one too, it was worse than the bad one. :hill:

11-02-2006, 06:02 PM
What a great idea - me too! When?
Maxs dad.
Looks good. Wes, I need to come over to your house and drink some beer in your garage.

11-02-2006, 07:31 PM
oh that's for used, no? I had a used one too, it was worse than the bad one. :hill:

Yeah the $11 one was worse than the one I was trying to replace :hill:
So I guess you could say that I paid 45.05 for a used pump :o . But at least I have two broken spares! :hill:

Man it really hurts to actually add up all the stupid purchases you've made on your truck doesn't it? :banghead:

11-03-2006, 02:32 PM
What a great idea - me too! When?
Maxs dad.

Anytime the garage is open. :p: I need to clear out some junk, I mean land cruiser parts:eek: . It's standing room only. Not nearly as fun as your place :cheers:

11-03-2006, 02:56 PM
Man it really hurts to actually add up all the stupid purchases you've made on your truck doesn't it? :banghead:

When you get up to the $4, $5, $6K range or more let me know...I still have $2-3K worth of "stuff" I bought for my '76 that I'll never use:rant:

And I wonder why the :Princess: rolls her eyes whenever a package arrives :eek:

11-05-2006, 09:46 AM
Not mentioned in this thread is the fact that some pumps have the return line to the pump and some don't. Early rigs had no return at all. Later ones returned it to the tank, then later on the excess fuel is returned to the pump on the inlet side.

Rebuild kits used to be available from Toyota, I have a new one still in the bag in the garage. Obviously,the rebuild kits are only for the earlier pumps with the screw-on head, not the later ones with the stamped head. The way to know if you need the spacer ("insulator" in Toyota parts books jargon) is to hold the pump(s) in question side by side. The type that use the spacer will have the lever sticking considerably farther out.

As has been mentioned earlier in this thread, the main differences in the earlier style pumps have to do with the location of the ports, and whether the ports are barb or screw on.

While the rebuild kit does include a new diaphragm, in my experience one of the causes for pump failure is the delamination of the phenolic check valve disks, and the rebuild kit does not include new ones.