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Chris
10-22-2006, 05:19 PM
:eek: This knucklehead is going to rebuild the knuckles on my FJ62.

Yeah, yeah, I've read the FSM, watched the 80 rebuild DVD and anything else I can here and on mud.

Still I'm intimidated and gladly offer beer, pizza, whatever for a bit of assistance while gaining experience. Since I'll be tearing it apart I also have new rotors, calipers and pads.

Timeframe? Days, nights, anytime this coming week.
Where? My son-in-laws garage in Aurora

Thanks!

subzali
10-22-2006, 07:13 PM
Get a seal puller if you don't already have one. Screwdrivers are bad substitutes. And if you are planning on disassembling the bell, just buy the pipe you'll need to pop the inner/outer axles apart. I tried the whole vise/punch/hit it in the right spot bit, it's not worth it. I'll buy you :beer: if you take longer than me, 27 hours total :eek::D

Chris
10-22-2006, 08:27 PM
Get a seal puller if you don't already have one. Screwdrivers are bad substitutes. And if you are planning on disassembling the bell, just buy the pipe you'll need to pop the inner/outer axles apart. I tried the whole vise/punch/hit it in the right spot bit, it's not worth it. I'll buy you :beer: if you take longer than me, 27 hours total :eek::D

I think I have a few SST's lined up and do plan on buying a seal puller.

disassembling the bell? - buy the pipe? Now I'm adding more hours since I don't know what you're talking about :confused:

27 hours? Doesn't sound too bad to me. I just may pick up drinking again and the first will be on you!

subzali
10-22-2006, 08:31 PM
You know, getting the 6 balls and cage separated to make sure the inside moving surface of the birfield is completely clean. I mean since you're all the way in there you might as well take the extra five minutes and make sure it's done right. It's good experience too :p: . You have to break the snap rings on the inner axle so you can slide the birfield bell off. I can't believe at least the DVD didn't talk about it :confused:

Here (http://www.birfield.com/~morgan//tech/axle/part3.html) is what I'm talking about, the thing is this procedure takes about 5 seconds whereas any other way of separating the bell/balls/cage takes ???? I never was successful, but spent about a 1/2 hour with the vice. With your rebuild kit you should have gotten new snap rings...

Chris
10-22-2006, 09:18 PM
Yeah, they skipped that in the video but I'll take the 5 minutes or 45, or 120. :thumb:

farnhamstj
10-22-2006, 09:21 PM
Having a partswasher is very helpful. If not you'll want about 5 cans of brake cleaner per side. Have 3 5gal buckets and many rolls of the blue throw out paper rags. You don't need to separate the axle/birf. It'll take you 6 hours for the 1st side and 3 hours for the other. Check that you can get the 4mm bolts out of your hub before you begin your project. That got me as I had to replace hubs also $100 I didn't budget. Get a few punches and razorblades, gasket remover. Cardboard and lots of it for your garage floor.

Rezarf
10-22-2006, 09:40 PM
Chris-

TP for the goo in the axles... works great. :D

I could help next week on Tuesday as its my day off, but no can do this Tuesday.

This is not a hard job just messy. You can do it man! :thumb:

Drew

Man Jerk
10-22-2006, 11:33 PM
I can't believe no on has recommended latex gloves. Your gonna need em.

farnhamstj
10-22-2006, 11:48 PM
You using the whole fist there doc?

Chris
10-23-2006, 02:19 PM
Thanks to you all for the suggestions, looks like it'll be fine. I'll shoot for getting it done in under 27 hours.

Drew, if I'm not done by next week I may call on you :lmao:

Rezarf
10-23-2006, 02:22 PM
Thanks to you all for the suggestions, looks like it'll be fine. I'll shoot for getting it done in under 27 hours.

Drew, if I'm not done by next week I may call on you :lmao:

Sounds good Chris, if you get in a jam, just give a hollar and we will walk you through it.

Drew

Romer
10-23-2006, 03:01 PM
I think this will be very similar to the 80. You might find this helpful:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78276

Chris
10-23-2006, 08:05 PM
Thanks for mentioning that great write-up Ken. Thought I'd read all there was to read. Guess it's worth browsing the non 60 series stuff now and then.

I'm sure that has helped a lot of people tackling this for the first time. It's beginning to feel much less intimidating. :)

Crash
10-24-2006, 06:12 PM
Got it done yet? :rolleyes:

Chris
10-24-2006, 08:05 PM
Got it done yet? :rolleyes:

Almost.

Almost got one side done that is ;)

Didn't need the 54mm hub socket on the drivers side, loose enough to do by hand. :confused:

Subzali, 6 hours down, looking like that beer might not be mine. But I haven't touched the right side yet :D

nakman
10-24-2006, 08:10 PM
Didn't need the 54mm hub socket on the drivers side, loose enough to do by hand.

Yikes!!! does the spindle look ok? that's too loose, obviously.

Subzali, 6 hours down, looking like that beer might not be mine. But I haven't touched the right side yet
Not a bad time, I bet the other side takes 3.5. doesn't look like either one of you guys get to start drinkin' over this... prolly a good thing. :)

Chris
10-24-2006, 08:29 PM
Yikes!!! does the spindle look ok? that's too loose, obviously.

I was surprised that they were so loose and more surprised that the spindle looks fine. Not jumping to conclusions but suspect I won't have the vibration I had before this.

Not a bad time, I bet the other side takes 3.5. doesn't look like either one of you guys get to start drinkin' over this... prolly a good thing. :)

After 25 years of sobriety I agree :thumb:

farnhamstj
10-24-2006, 10:30 PM
Good luck. Now get off the computer and get back in the garage.

Chris
10-25-2006, 09:58 AM
Ok, ok, ok, I'm going...


Now that it's morning :)

Chris
10-25-2006, 08:57 PM
Knuckle rebuild, is done. New rotors, calipers and pads too.

Almost :(

2 minor problems :rolleyes:

1. The diff fill plug is boogered and I haven't been able to get it out. Any suggestions appreciated. After going through this it's kind of frustrating not to be able to refill it :mad:

2. Lesson for today - brass drift will damage wheel studs. Picking up new ones and would like to press them in properly. Anyone have a press and availability tomorrow?

Mr. Crase, I think I recall such an addition to your garage, you have a PM :cheers:

wesintl
10-25-2006, 09:00 PM
you don't need a press... pound them in and suck them on with the nut.:eek: check after a short drive

File the fill plug til you can get a socket on it or use a screwdriver and then replace it.

Chris
10-25-2006, 09:20 PM
you don't need a press... pound them in and suck them on with the nut.:eek: check after a short drive

That was my intent but after dealing with the boogering I thought I might want to quit frustrating myself.

I guess I might feel different tomorrow. :)

File the fill plug til you can get a socket on it or use a screwdriver and then replace it.

Is this the screwdriver at an angle and hammer routine? The only indication it's ever been out is that it's boogered. :mad: Doesn't appear to have been out for a loooong time.

subzali
10-25-2006, 09:22 PM
Whoops, maybe that should make it into the FAQ...make sure you can take out the fill plug BEFORE you drain the oil...that saved me with my t-case and transmission, as my fill plugs were barely operable, had to pound a six-point socket on and turn VERY gingerly. Can you get a vice grips on it? As Wes said, make sure the studs are seated well, and then they get sucked the rest of the way on when you torque the wheel on. What are studs made out of? Something softer than brass? :confused:

Chris
10-25-2006, 10:10 PM
What are studs made out of? Something softer than brass? :confused:

More than puzzled myself, I've used brass drifts for this type of thing many times and never damaged anything before. :mad: Oh well, not much to do but replace them now. I'll pull them in and check and re-check and check again.

Save my energy for the diff plug :thumb:

Chris
10-26-2006, 08:48 PM
Whoops, maybe that should make it into the FAQ...make sure you can take out the fill plug BEFORE you drain the oil...that saved me with my t-case and transmission, as my fill plugs were barely operable, had to pound a six-point socket on and turn VERY gingerly. Can you get a vice grips on it? As Wes said, make sure the studs are seated well, and then they get sucked the rest of the way on when you torque the wheel on. What are studs made out of? Something softer than brass? :confused:

Massaged the boogered studs with a thread chaser and new nuts, worked just fine. ;)

The fill plug is still in. :mad: Nothing worked, tried all the tricks but it was/is kind of brittle and resisted all attempts to budge.

Resorted to filling via a hand pump and the drain hole. Yes, it worked. :hill:

nakman
10-26-2006, 09:18 PM
How did you fill the diff from the drain hole, did you turn the truck upside down? :dunno: :)

Here's how I get the tough ones off: soak with PB blaster for several days. Use a good, 6-point 24mm socket, not a 12-point. and 1/2" drive. I've got one you can borrow if needed. File that bolt like Wes suggested until that socket will swallow the whole bolt head and rest on the diff cover. Put breaker bar on more or less parallel with the axle, aimed down a little, handle towards DS tire. Then use a small bottle jack (or similar) to push up on the handle from below. Use all your weight to press on the backside of the socket keeping it on the bolt, while you increase the upward (lefty looosy) pressure with the jack. the jack does the heavy work, you keep the socket in place.

Once you get it out upgrade to a new one, like a Corrola one with the 14mm hex driver or at a minumum, a new bolt & new crush washer.

wesintl
10-26-2006, 09:25 PM
little bit of heat even from mapp gas goes a long way. I refuse to believe you can't get it off...:Princess:

Chris
10-26-2006, 09:41 PM
How did you fill the diff from the drain hole, did you turn the truck upside down? :dunno: :)


Yep, just turned it over and filled it up.


Here's how I get the tough ones off: soak with PB blaster for several days. Use a good, 6-point 24mm socket, not a 12-point. and 1/2" drive. I've got one you can borrow if needed. File that bolt like Wes suggested until that socket will swallow the whole bolt head and rest on the diff cover. Put breaker bar on more or less parallel with the axle, aimed down a little, handle towards DS tire. Then use a small bottle jack (or similar) to push up on the handle from below. Use all your weight to press on the backside of the socket keeping it on the bolt, while you increase the upward (lefty looosy) pressure with the jack. the jack does the heavy work, you keep the socket in place.

Outside of the jack (wish I knew that earlier) that's what I did. The bolt seemed kind of brittle. It's toast now. A guy can only try so many times before there's not much left which is where I'm at now. :eek:

Once you get it out upgrade to a new one, like a Corrola one with the 14mm hex driver or at a minumum, a new bolt & new crush washer.

Being optimistic I have a new bolt and crush washer from Toyota. Being realistic it may be in my tool box for a long time.

Chris
10-26-2006, 09:47 PM
little bit of heat even from mapp gas goes a long way.
My son-in-law tried that in my absence knowing how I wouldn't do it myself. He picked up where I left off.
Again, not much left to work with...

I refuse to believe you can't get it off...:Princess:
Bet you can't either :D

Rezarf
11-06-2006, 01:46 PM
Chris-

Did you get everything worked out man?

Drew

wesintl
11-06-2006, 02:59 PM
My son-in-law tried that in my absence knowing how I wouldn't do it myself. He picked up where I left off.
Again, not much left to work with...


Bet you can't either :D


should have called. I had pleanty of time this weekend. :blah:

With my redneck enjiner ring it can be done. BFH, Heat, cut off wheel, drill bit, etc...:lmao:

Look, uncle ben can do anything with a PBR :thumb: ;)

Red_Chili
11-06-2006, 03:23 PM
On the fill plug- talk to Jerry at Burt Toyota and get an allen plug. You'll never strip it again. Use 'em all over the 4Runner, for drain and fill, tranny and diff. Wunnerful. I think they came stock on a Corolla or something.

On removing the old one: weld on a nut. Really. WFLLT.

Hulk
11-06-2006, 03:31 PM
Look, uncle ben can do anything with a PBR :thumb: ;)

This?
http://toothlessgeorge.com/pics/design/pabst-can.jpg http://toothlessgeorge.com/pics/design/pabst-can.jpg http://toothlessgeorge.com/pics/design/pabst-can.jpg

Chris
11-06-2006, 04:01 PM
Yeah, guess I never mentioned that :p:

Alls' well though I still have the boogered diff plug. Emily passed the freeway test, no vibration (of significance) at 90 mph.

Haven't taken it off-road yet

Had to interupt my cruiser work last week to come to Maui for my son's wedding today :D

Rzeppa
11-07-2006, 12:21 AM
I can't believe no on has recommended latex gloves. Your gonna need em.Latex lasts about 5 minutes in solvent. Nitryl rocks man!

Rzeppa
11-07-2006, 12:25 AM
The fill plug is still in. :mad: Nothing worked, tried all the tricks but it was/is kind of brittle and resisted all attempts to budge.Torch

Rzeppa
11-07-2006, 12:28 AM
Step by step knuckle rebuild (http://www.birfield.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album11&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php) and axle maintenance. Sorry I didn't notice this thread sooner, was out of town that week and am still catching up.

Chris
11-07-2006, 09:03 PM
Latex lasts about 5 minutes in solvent. Nitryl rocks man!


Next time I'll try Nitryl, went through a lot of latex gloves but my hands still took a beating.

I'll be dealing with that damned plug upon my return from vacation. :cool:

That's another write-up I missed, nice to see so many good ones. They helped me a lot...

leiniesred
11-08-2006, 09:40 AM
Fill Plug Tech: Cruel and Sadistic Method of Removal.

When I was 16, I couldn't get a socket type plug out of my VW transaxle. I too used the jack trick, but all I did was jack up the CAR! Had to be at least 1000 ft/lbs. 5 minutes later with a hammer and chisel, It was out.

I faced a similar challenge on a Volvo. screwed around with a fill plug for hours, then 5 minutes with a hammer and chisel.

As you noticed, the material is soft and brittle. With the chisel, it is OK if you pound off a piece or two of the plug. It is the FLANGE that is stuck, not the threads. By breaking off some of the problem, the impact vibrating things loose, and the rotational force you are applying, the thing will move a little, then 2 hits later will spin easily leaving you grinning all the way to the parts store for a new plug.

I too replaced all (I think) of my fill/drain plugs with allen head plugs.