View Full Version : Leak!
12-07-2006, 03:00 PM
As noted last night, my rig is leaking. A lot. I guess something was only good for 258,000 miles on the 3VZE engine.
The entire right side of the engine and frame rail are soaked and it drips down onto my steering linkage before hitting the ground. The oil pan itself is relatively dry, except for the passenger rail which is soaked.
I welcome your theories and experienced replies. I'll try to add a photo. Everything is so wet, it will be hard to trace the source.
OK, I took some camera phone pics, but they are useless.
The bottom of the crank is not nearly wet enough to be the source. The A/C compressor is soaked so it is above that. The high pressure hose seems to be soaked too. The power steering pump is right above the AC compressor...What else. Valve cover gasket. The sprk plug holes are not wet so the vavle cover might be OK.
Maybe it IS the pump or lines. I sure hope that is all it is!
12-07-2006, 03:10 PM
I know this is a different engine but did you ever read about Cruiserdan's leaking engine on MUD? Apparently another MUD'r has run into the same problem (although for different reasons). Maybe the 3VZE has a similar 'plug' that has let go.
Obviously this is only a theory and in no way an experienced reply :)
12-07-2006, 05:22 PM
do those engines have a side cover?
12-07-2006, 05:42 PM
I know what you are talking about, NuclearLemon.
No, there is no lifter gallery cover on this engine. Overhead cams on this one.
Good idea though! There may be a little oil passage plug over there for me to check out. I haven't seen one of those back out in my life, but it is worth a look.
12-07-2006, 11:04 PM
Well, I'm out of serivce for awhile. The passenger cam seal is leaking with British Leyland fervor.
It runs down to the fan idler bracket, then rolls on back to drip on top of the A/C compressor. Down around the A/C compressor, then it then gets blown back soaking everything behind it until you stop moving. Then it drips down onto everything below like steering linkages and axles.
Going out of town this weekend. I MIGHT get to work on it Sunday night. I also bent the power steering pump pully. Way to go Rudeboy. I think I can bend it back.
Anyway, I could be driving the FSJ (full size Jeep) again for a week. Maybe I'll just ride my bike to work.
The ol' Runner was scheduled for retirement at 243,000 miles, but I pushed her on to 258,000 and everything is finally failing. This is the first non-trailside, unscheduled repair I've had to make in the 10 years I've been running this rig.
12-08-2006, 02:46 PM
Swap in a 3.4. Bolt-on. Probably easier than working on that stellar 3.0L.
12-08-2006, 04:57 PM
ditto on the 3.4!
12-19-2006, 12:17 AM
Oh Chili's gonna love this technique.
First, I banged on it with the 3/4 impact. Nothing. Can't get a straight shot anyway.
Then I looked at the problem. bolt in cam. Boss says "get bolt out."
big OKB (Old Knuckle Buster) tools pick'n'pry bar.
Craftsman breaker bar ('cause they don't)
17mm deep well impact socket (6 point)
Highlift jack handle.
I placed the prybar tooth into the cam pully, in a way that the idler bearing bracket held it and it wedged against the socket as the fulcrum. Extend handle for about 6 feet of leverage and simply pull down. no real effort. Worked just as well on the driver side. CREeeeek and it was loose.
12-19-2006, 01:16 AM
Some real nice ingenuity at work there.....................good luck on the rest.
12-19-2006, 01:47 PM
Don't tell anybody, but Chili's been known to use the same technique... Sssshhhh!
Did you know that is the exact, FSM-described technique for loosening/tightening the crank nut on a Sportster primary drive? They even sell an SST for it. Be sure to check the cam pulleys for any bending though.
12-19-2006, 01:49 PM
P.S. good time to swap the cam belts. And H2O pump. And adjust your valves.
Heck, you might be able to bring it up to around 130HP!
12-20-2006, 08:52 PM
well rudeboy looks like you'll have all day tomorrow to work on it!
12-21-2006, 09:13 PM
Done! Took all moring today, but I'm mobile. Tested it out pulling the neighbors up the hill.
The NAPA crank seal was identical to the factory toyota seal (except mine was 18 years old). The cam seals were a different manufacturer, but fit. Saidm "DANA" in the dimond logo on the box. I'll tell people they are Dana60 Axle seals.
12-21-2006, 11:31 PM
sweet! I put the tank in and charged up the shocks and pulled a bunch of people out today too :)
I'm thinking I need to get some paint on all this toob to keep the rust off:o
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