PDA

View Full Version : Starts then immediately dies... stumped.


Rezarf
12-09-2006, 07:26 PM
Howdy folks-

Well, I just got into my cruiser to fire it up and it isn't acting right. I know all I need is spark, fuel, and air... so here is what I know.

Issue started a few days ago, then went away. It happened once before tonight and then fired right up, tonight I couldn't get it to go. This is literally the first time ever it didn't start on the first or second try.

My fuel level in the sight glass on the carb is half way. Good.

I have spark at all the plugs, verified with inductive timing light. Good.

The truck just starts and dies, choke out, pedal to the floor once, crank, crank, Varooom! dead.

Same with the choke out or in.

If I try to crank, crank, and tap the gas, same thing.

Waited for a long time to make sure we didn't flood the carb, dead.

I can see a small leak on the front of the carb where the throttle linkage "rod" runs through the base of the carb and is attached on the front outside face of the carb. Maybe one little drop per starting attempt... not good, maybe a vacuum leak? Sprayed carb cleaner on the leak while firing, no difference.

The interior or "choke" side of the carb looks pretty dirty.

I can't see fuel getting sprayed into the throat of the carb when starting and pumping the gas pedal... shouldn't I be able to see it spray?

All vacuum lines are connected, verified.


Here is what I still need to check:

That the fuel is coming into the carb, and for a dirty fuel filter.

FWIW, I installed a radiator today but it was a simple swap.

Kinda at a loss here, any thoughts are much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Rezarf <><

74fj40
12-09-2006, 10:20 PM
hmm no spray when you pump, could it be the accelorator pump?

Uncle Ben
12-09-2006, 11:44 PM
I would bet the bank on igniter or ignition module. While starting the distrib gets a hot charge that make a hotter spark. As soon as the key is released the ignition drops to normal mode.

Romer
12-10-2006, 12:35 AM
see if the plug is loose on the coil or at the dizzy. Mine worked its way loose once when I swapped the battery and it still looked connected.

Rezarf
12-10-2006, 01:28 AM
I would bet the bank on igniter or ignition module. While starting the distrib gets a hot charge that make a hotter spark. As soon as the key is released the ignition drops to normal mode.

Coolio-

Do you mean my ignition switch in the cab could be bad? Or do I need to check it at the ignition module attached to the coil?

Romer-

Thanks man, yep checked them both... I was hoping that was it, but I am getting spark when the key is turned over.

Thanks guys!

Drew

IanB
12-10-2006, 07:14 AM
Is the float bowl still full immediately after it dies? You should be able to hear the fuel spraying into the carb with the engine off and pulling the throttle linkage.

60wag
12-10-2006, 07:55 AM
Have you checked the fuel cutoff solenoid on the carb?

Uncle Ben
12-10-2006, 10:12 AM
Coolio-

Do you mean my ignition switch in the cab could be bad? Or do I need to check it at the ignition module attached to the coil?

<snip>Thanks guys!

Drew


No....yes...;)

Rezarf
12-10-2006, 11:54 AM
Kevin-

I have the later fj60 ignition in my rig, does that make a difference, I am kinda clueless on how to check the igniter.

Can anyone try to shed some light on the process for me?

thanks!

wesintl
12-10-2006, 01:29 PM
I doubt it's the ignitor or the coil. you need a multi meter to test the ohms on the ignitor. It's an easy test in the fsm.

Tighten all the manifold bolts. If you flood it you might pull the plugs and clean them up.

I would pull a plug and make sure you have spark vs relying on the timing light.

The butterfly rod will leak if your pouring fuel/pumping the accel alot. You should be able to see fuel dropping into the carb.

I would try and use a small bottle of gas. Start it and feed the engine with gas from your little bottle to keep it running.

How much vacuum are you pulling when running?

Rezarf
12-10-2006, 02:51 PM
Good tips Wes.

I am without a factory manual, but I do have a multimeter. I assume I am looking for obvious drop after start up?

I will run through your list, is sounds like good places to start.

Thanks man, hows the baby?

Drew

wesintl
12-10-2006, 03:18 PM
coil -

with both contacts on either side of the coil outlet. (the 2 with wires and nuts)
resistance w/o 2.6-4.0 ohms
w/ 1.3 -1.6 ohms
secondary - in the coil outlet, + on the black wire at coil
w/o 6-9.0 ohm
w/ 9.5 -14.5
external, contacts on the 2 nuts facing out like the coil
1.3-1.7

Ignitor + on the top nut, the one without the black wire going to the coil. turn the key to on and you should have 12v.

Rezarf
12-10-2006, 04:03 PM
Thanks Wes!

FWIW, I was out messing with it. Same results from where I left off last night. Starts then immediately dies.

So, I got out and played with the wires a bit, just checking for anything loose at the coil/ignitor, and VAROOOM!

Runs like a champ. I am going to clean all the connections and try the volt meter.

Wes, I really appreciate the info man. Where can I get a FSM?

Thanks!

Drew

wesintl
12-10-2006, 05:59 PM
cool, glad it was simple. Spread open the connection on the wire that goes to the coil a tad so it's a nice tight fit.

You can buy the original Factory Service Manual (FSM) at:

Toyota Material Distribution Center (http://techinfo.toyota.com/public/main/mdc.html)
750 West Victoria St
Rancho Dominguez/Compton, CA 90220-5538 USA
1-800-622-2033
(outside CA)(M-F: 7-5 PST)
1-800-443-7656 (inside CA)
1-310-818-4630 (in or outside CA)

The 2f I think you want is pub #98126 (at least the one I havefor my 76)

You can always try ebay and find one of the smaller grey cover books to match the vintage.
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?cgiurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2F&fkr=1&from=R8&satitle=2f+engine+manual&category0=&submitSearch=Search

Rezarf
12-10-2006, 09:06 PM
Thanks again Wes! :bowdown:

I will be bidding on the manual using my Ebay sniper technique. :cool:

Drew