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View Full Version : got the 40. here's the 1st question of MANY.


CardinalFJ60
01-29-2007, 03:56 PM
Although the 40 I just picked up has been 'restified' quite nicely...it needs a little TLC after getting none for a last several years. I'll post up a nice poser driveway pic later...but I GOTTA FIX THIS SUPER HIGH IDLE.

I have a super high idle and when going through the process I normally do - set the fast idle, then set the 'regular' idle - the adj. screws don't effect the idle at all.

Tonight I'm going to check to see if the secondary is stuck open. Is there anything else I should check? Like, are there return springs or something I need to check out? :cheers:

Thanks!!!

corsair23
01-29-2007, 03:58 PM
Congrats on the new Cruiser :)

Sorry no help on the idle issue but can't wait to see pics!!

Romer
01-29-2007, 04:05 PM
Try this

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=26635

CardinalFJ60
01-29-2007, 04:23 PM
in all my mud searches - I didn't see this, thanks!!!

Romer
01-29-2007, 04:39 PM
It was in the 40's section FAQ titled "Updated Carb tech"

CardinalFJ60
01-29-2007, 04:42 PM
I can't get the idle to change at all using those adj. screws. I can turn'em all the way each way, and it doesn't do anything to the idle. I can't get the sucker to idle below what sounds like "ludicrous idle-speed". I don't have a tach, but it sounds like 1200+rpm. OH, the only thing I can do to effect the idle speed is lifting up on the skinny-pedal.

Let me know if you think I'm on the right track for tonight's fun in driveway.

1. clean carb
2. Check if secondary is stuck
3. test for vac leaks using procedure in link provided by Romer
4. I don't have timing gun, tach, nor vac guage...so that stuff is outta the question.

Question: It's got headers, anything special I should check given that?

I'd like to get to the point where I can at least change the idle speed using the adj. screws. Right now, she just ROARS, really loud.

thanks again!

Beater
01-29-2007, 04:58 PM
first thing: buy lots of carb cleaner.
second thing: spray said carb cleaner around carb and vacuum lines
third thing: fix air leak....

treerootCO
01-29-2007, 05:09 PM
If the pedal affects it, you need a return spring. The engine is probably sucking the butterflies open.

corsair23
01-29-2007, 05:39 PM
OH, the only thing I can do to effect the idle speed is lifting up on the skinny-pedal.

x2 on what Mike said...If I understand you right when you lift on the pedal the RPM drops down to normal, or what sounds like more normal? Then when you let the pedal go the idle goes back up?

Maybe the spring is 'sprung' or popped off or?? Remember I am mechanically challenged but this seems to make a lot of sense and would seem to coincide with the adjustment screws having no affect.

http://www.sor.com/sor/cat042b.tam?xax=21326

treerootCO
01-29-2007, 08:06 PM
the spring is on the carb. It is listed in the SOR link above but kinda hard to see. The spring is not on the pedal itself even though some have one there as well.

CardinalFJ60
01-30-2007, 10:05 AM
I'm leaving work a little early to stand in the cold and try to fix this tonight! Thanks!

It looks like SOR doesn't carry the spring...Does anyone know if this is still available or a have an idea on a good substitute?

thanks again.

-Shawn

FJBen
01-30-2007, 10:24 AM
I'm leaving work a little early to stand in the cold and try to fix this tonight! Thanks!

It looks like SOR doesn't carry the spring...Does anyone know if this is still available or a have an idea on a good substitute?

thanks again.

-Shawn

You could just measure the distance and then try and find a spring that fits that length. Just make sure it has enough tension...buy a few.

Beater
01-30-2007, 10:47 AM
I had the same problem on my ih. the "help" center in most auto parts stores will have an assortment of carb springs. has like 8 in it. VERY handy.

nakman
01-30-2007, 10:47 AM
Shawn,

I was thinking about this the other day.. what if you just pulled the carb and sent it to Jim Chenowith (sp?) Sorry if I butchered that name.. I'm not sure what his contact info is but I'm sure I know somoene who does. But from what I've heard he's master of card rebuilds, puts it all together super sweet and from here on out you can rule out carb issues.

Plus you get 25 more HP, 20mpg, all the ladies, etc. Anyone know if he charges a standard rate, and what that is?

CardinalFJ60
01-30-2007, 10:54 AM
HAH! That thing is Loud, huh? Headers plus the Flowmaster really sound throaty!

I heard a rumor, no concrete evidence, that is...expensive. If I can get 'er runnin a little better with this endeavor, it's coming off and getting re-built.

Anyone local do good Aisin re-builds?

-s

Rezarf
01-30-2007, 10:56 AM
HAH! That thing is Loud, huh? Headers plus the Flowmaster really sound throaty!

I heard a rumor, no concrete evidence, that is...expensive. If I can get 'er runnin a little better with this endeavor, it's coming off and getting re-built.

Anyone local do good Aisin re-builds?

-s

I am in Louisville, if you want another set of eyes on it.

For rebuilding the originals, there is only one dude... Jim C. TLC Performance in Ohio. He is stellar.

Drew

CardinalFJ60
01-30-2007, 11:00 AM
I have beer, and enough knowledge to get my myself in deeep trouble. ;)

I'm still learning so much about 40's...similar, but still waaay different from my 60. I'm heading out of LoDo early to tinker, but that means home by 4:30ish...shoot me a PM if want to spend a little time standing in my Driveway. :D :beer:

wesintl
01-30-2007, 11:04 AM
Best way to get a hold of him is pm FJ40Jim on mud. IIRC. Rebuild and tune is $300.

You can also buy a non usa 2 barrell from aus for ~$400. That's what I ended up doing. If it was a smogged 60 carb I'd definatly send it to jim.http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=132734&highlight=nardek

How many miles on this 40? I would try and hit some of the basic items before I pulled off the carb and sent it out. Tune it up. adjust the valves and dist, check for vacuum leaks, adjust the carb, etc.

CardinalFJ60
01-30-2007, 11:46 AM
Good idea...I'm going through it front to back checking "stuff". I've found a few dangling wires, minor heater pipe leak from the valve into the cab (not sure exactly what the deal is with that yet), and other schtuff.

since i got home so late last night - running the cruiser at 8pm in neighborhood wouldn't be a respectful thing to do. tonight is carb cleaning, vac leak check, spring check.

The 40 was completely "restified" about 8 years ago, and then not really used for the last 4-5 years. The odometer shows 86k, but the 2F was rebuilt with the 'restification'. I think if I clip the low-hanging fruit, I'll have a strong runner here.

thanks again for all the help and advice!

IanB
01-30-2007, 12:02 PM
I'll be home this weekend if you need help. I have a vacuum gauge, tach, timing light, multimeter, etc.

CardinalFJ60
01-30-2007, 12:07 PM
Me-thinks we're skiing this weekend - if that falls through I'll shoot you a PM.

THANKS! (from the short, graying guy who foolishly thought the two of us could move that HUUUGE compressor of yours) :-)

-s

CardinalFJ60
01-30-2007, 09:45 PM
read like c. montgomery burns of the simpsons...

... "excellent."

thanks!!

that seems to be the deal. Return spring appears to be new, but not right. seems like it needs one with a little more tension.

In looking at the setup, (and I know nothing about carbs) I feel like a return spring with just more 'uumph' will do, Or do I need to get one that pulls that lever on the carb to an exact spot?

subzali
01-30-2007, 10:12 PM
It should just pull it all the way to the stop, IIRC. Of course you'd get this 40 the week after I stopped driving mine and can't go take a look-see at it :rolleyes: :D

CardinalFJ60
01-31-2007, 12:26 AM
Yeah, figures, huh?... where's yours? Oh and thanks, just what I needed to know.