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RockRunner
03-06-2007, 03:23 PM
OK, I need some more info. I have a Hobart 140 welder, it is the 110v version that can be used with flux or gas. I will need to weld my suspension with it and some bumper parts. Most stuff is between 3/16 and 1/4" thick.

Question is can I do it with the flux core only or do I need to change up and use Co2? I really don't want to buy a bottle and have it filled even though I do plan on getting one later for a refill set up.

What is the consensus here??? All you pro welders please chime in and don't tell me I should have bought a 220v I had no $$$ then.

Red_Chili
03-06-2007, 03:27 PM
If Green Machine were running it, it would do the deed. With you or I running it, I'd be reluctant (poor penetration). In the other thread I offered to bring over my Miller 220V Argon MIG. If you got 220...

RockRunner
03-06-2007, 03:40 PM
If Green Machine were running it, it would do the deed. With you or I running it, I'd be reluctant (poor penetration). In the other thread I offered to bring over my Miller 220V Argon MIG. If you got 220...

Sorry I did not see that, that would be great. I do have 220 available but I would need to get an extetion cord since the location is in the laundry room. It only needs to be about 15' long and I can get that at Murdochs.

Do you have a number I can reach you at? or you can call me at 303-977-5409

Beater
03-07-2007, 08:17 AM
110 is fine, with flux. Bevel your edges leaving 1/16 to 1/8 in surface material at the joint touch point. On fillets you can just bevel the top piece of the "L". Turn the heat up all the way, and run a smooth bead to fill the bevel as a root pass, making sure to not have a convex shaped bead, or "raised". (travel speed). The if you want, run a second pass using a "C" motion to go over the root from piece to piece.

done

PS
.030 flux will penetrate better at 110v, but .035 will work fine.

Red_Chili
03-07-2007, 08:29 AM
Or you can just blast away with a 220 machine and be done with it... GM = finesse, RC = nukyoolar. :D

Red_Chili
03-07-2007, 08:30 AM
PM sent, Tom

treerootCO
03-07-2007, 08:47 AM
You can borrow my 220 extension cord if needed. I believe it is 30 feet long. 600V 6?/3. It is a 5-50R/5-50P

leiniesred
03-07-2007, 08:56 AM
It has the old male crow's foot oven/dryer 3 prong plug on 1 end, 50 feet of 10 gauge, and then a nema...hmm, I dunno it looks like a 240V 30 amp twist lock on the other end. the female end is in a metal box, so you can just go to the hardware store to get an outlet that fits RC's welder.

I'm of the "burn it in good" with the 220V welder opinion. It is eaiser for me than all the edge beveling work before I can get after it with my 110 welder.

Red_Chili
03-07-2007, 09:04 AM
You can borrow my 220 extension cord if needed. I believe it is 30 feet long. 600V 6?/3. It is a 5-50R/5-50P
That's what my welder wants to see. I too have an extension cord made of household wire rated 80 amps or so, but it has the same configuration on the male end.

RockRunner
03-07-2007, 11:47 AM
That's what my welder wants to see. I too have an extension cord made of household wire rated 80 amps or so, but it has the same configuration on the male end.

So Bill, if you come over we should be good to go with your cord? I would be plugging it into the dryer outlet just 15 feet away. If not I can either borrow from the guys above or buy. Just let me know what we need and I will make sure to get it there.

RockRunner
03-07-2007, 11:50 AM
Treeroot and Leiniesred, thanks for the offer. I will wait to see what Bill has to say, if his will work with my plug in the house we should be all set if not I will try to contact one or both of you depending on what Bill needs.

RockRunner
03-07-2007, 11:54 AM
I am thinkng of upgrading my little hobart for the 220v version. It all depends on whether or not they will do an exchange at Murdochs. If not I may just have to deal with it.

I did some welding on the rollbar last night, it worked fine just need more parctice. Still trying to figure the speed and heat thing out, once I have a better grasp of that then I will feel more comfetable. Also the speed of moving the tip, sometimes to fast then to slow. Besides the factor that I was welding two different thicknesses, that did not help. can you say Hole :p: Only burned one but still :rant:

treerootCO
03-07-2007, 12:03 PM
your dryer outlet would be the only concern. If the plug won't plug in, you need to find a solution.

This chart only really shows the locking (L) styles, the straight blade ones like mine are more common and come in at least 10 varieties. http://www.powerware.com/Avaya/USA/Technical/plugs.asp

Red_Chili
03-07-2007, 02:27 PM
The plug style of my extension cord looks like the male version of the one Treeroot posted above. So we would need to make sure you had a male plug that would fit in your dryer outlet. I can rewire my cord as needed if you have the plug you need for me to wire.
Your dryer outlet is likely a 4-wire version (required by code these days). Separate neutral and ground. No problem. Neutral not needed for a welder.

treerootCO
03-07-2007, 02:40 PM
The cost of those plugs at the home depot can be as much as $50.00. Most are around $20.00.

My welder is a Millermatic 175 and I really like what it can do. Ige runs the same model as well.

RockRunner
03-07-2007, 05:29 PM
The plug style of my extension cord looks like the male version of the one Treeroot posted above. So we would need to make sure you had a male plug that would fit in your dryer outlet. I can rewire my cord as needed if you have the plug you need for me to wire.
Your dryer outlet is likely a 4-wire version (required by code these days). Separate neutral and ground. No problem. Neutral not needed for a welder.


I will take a look and if needed I will buy a new plug. I rather spend $20-50 and get it done right then save a buck or two and end up with my front end pointing one way while I am pointing down the cliff.

Will check tonight and let you guys know.