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View Full Version : Finally found my new project


Boulder Cruiser
04-26-2007, 07:43 PM
Tuesday i found an ad on Denver post for a 72 here in boulder, went and looked at and bought it:D took it home yesterday. Its completely bone stock, its in really good shape (besides the rear 1/4 & fender) She runs like a champ, and everything works. Im also getting a butt load of extra parts (basically another cruiser) Something i was surprised to find when i got home was some original owners manuals and a bag filled with all the receipts/service records dating back to the first owner, It was purchased here in boulder and hasn't left, thought that was cool:)
So Ive started stripping it down, i want to do a frame off resto. I just learned how to weld and have never done anything this big, so this will be a HUGE learning experience for me.
Here are some pics i took on Wed when i brought it home.
ANY info/Help/criticism would be MUCH appreciated as this is the first time ive ever done anything like this. Let me know what you guys think. :cheers:

Convert
04-26-2007, 08:28 PM
Congrats BC looks like a great project :thumb:

subzali
04-26-2007, 08:33 PM
Yeah baby looks like a great project! :thumb: Let's see, judging by Buckroseau on MUD, you should have this done no later than the end of this summer! :D j/k make sure to have fun with it!

Boulder Cruiser
04-26-2007, 08:39 PM
Thanks guys! I wish i could get her done by then that would be sweet, Ill shoot for it:D

Boulder Cruiser
04-26-2007, 08:57 PM
Whats the cheapest way to get the hood/fenders back to bare metal? Sand blasting, grinding, sanding....? Are there any places where i shouldnt use a grinder?

Shark Bait
04-26-2007, 09:21 PM
Media blasting is best on anything not rusted. Sand blasting will get rid of the rust.

Looks real nice. Do you mind sharing how much $$ you gave for that thing? Just curious. You can PM me if you don't want to post it.

Mr. Zepp has a nice write up of his frame off resto here: http://Rzeppa.org

subzali
04-26-2007, 09:24 PM
Don't use a grinder on any external surfaces...I used an angle grinder with a wire wheel on things like skid plates, engine components (valve cover etc.), the inside of the hardtop which I didn't really care about. I'm pretty sure sand blasting is much much faster though.

Boulder Cruiser
04-26-2007, 09:48 PM
Thanks for the link
I meant angle grinder my bad. So i shouldn't angle grind the body to get the paint and surface rust off?

Shark Bait
04-26-2007, 09:51 PM
Thanks for the link
I paid 2k for everything, i thought it was fair, ive been searching around for awhile and couldn't find anything that wasn't covered in rust for cheaper than 1.5k, and if i did someone would snatch out from under me right away. I also figured i could sell off some of the parts.

I meant angle grinder my bad. So i shouldn't angle grind the body to get the paint and surface rust off?

2k's not too bad for a runner. Blasting of some kind would probably be best. You can do it yourself if you have a decent compressor, but make sure to get a really good respirator. Silica sand is bad to inhale.

subzali
04-26-2007, 09:54 PM
Check out the FJ45 LPB restoration (http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=104821) and the FJ45 LV restoration (http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=39575) on MUD as well as Jeff Zepp's restoration (http://rzeppa.org/resto/cruiser1.htm) - those should at least give you an idea of what other people are doing. There's lots of other resto threads on MUD, but I'm pretty sure I haven't seen one using an angle grinder to get the paint off the body. If for no other reason, it would take forever, but it might not leave the finish/texture you want for primer/paint and a nice smooth finish after topcoat.

wesintl
04-26-2007, 10:00 PM
nice find!

Boulder Cruiser
04-26-2007, 10:08 PM
Ive seen those threads, that guy is amazing! He makes it look so simple.
Im a poor collage kid with a limited amount of tools! Any blasting places you guys would recommend?

gahi
04-27-2007, 06:23 AM
I've used Blast-Tech Inc. They specialize in automotive. they're in englewood, so there migh be someone closer to you. It'll probably cost between $600-$800. to do all the parts of the body. But its worth it. I have a large sandblaster, compressor, and air fed respirator. But I hate doing it. Oh, their phone # is 303-806-9992

SteveH
04-27-2007, 08:31 AM
Very nice rig - congrats. I think you got a good deal on it, too.

If you have a lot of blasting to do, I'd strongly recommend a professional. It's just too time-consuming to do it yourself, even with a good compressor and equipment. You can always try one fender yourself and see how it goes, too.
Wear a good face mask and work outdoors.

If a part has little rust, but 47 layers of paint, you may want to use a chemical paint stripper. But, if it's a mix of old paint and rust, blasting may be better to get it all clean, all the way down to the metal.

Steve

farnhamstj
04-27-2007, 08:56 AM
Great score. Gonna restore, build it huge, or something in the middle?

Boulder Cruiser
04-27-2007, 03:55 PM
Thanks for the info guys! Im going to call around and get some prices.
At this point im just going to keep it stock as possible, I might do a mild lift later on. I would feel bad chopping it up and making it a crawler

Shark Bait
04-27-2007, 04:21 PM
If you were in Denver I would point you to Blast Tech in Englewood. They do good work and are fast and cheap. :)

Boulder Cruiser
04-29-2007, 09:20 PM
I got a 4 speed tranny/tcase out of a 76 with my cruiser, since mine is a three speed i want to switch them out. How hard is it? Do i need to change anything else or can i just bolt it on?

Shark Bait
04-29-2007, 10:08 PM
Not too hard. You also need a 4-speed bell housing, flywheel, clutch fork and clutch. You can run the clutch fork from the drivers side and use your stock clutch master/slave and hard line. Just move the pivot point over to the DS. You might as well find a set of later model (75-78) front and rear drive shafts. The 4-speed tranny is longer, so.... If not you can have your rear drive shaft shortened and your front one lengthened. If you do that you may need to swap the old parking brake drum and T-case front output flange to the new setup. If you use the later model FJ40 drive shafts you might need to change the pinion flanges. The later model stuff is bigger and stronger so you might want to go that route. Might need a longer speedo cable. You also might need to "trim" the rear cross member on your frame for the parking brake drum to clear. Hopefully the parking brake cable came the the 4-speed transfer case. It sounds like a lot, but otherwise it shouldn't be too bad a swap.