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subzali
06-25-2007, 05:03 PM
So after hearing tales of daring from Treeroots harrowing experiences after losing his spring pins...;) :p:

Are these bad boys easy to replace so that I don't have to do a teardown/jerry rig on the trail?

MDH33
06-25-2007, 07:05 PM
You can get replacements from 4Crawler. Easy to replace if yours isn't already broken. ;) Use some C-clamps to hold the spring pack together and just tap the old one out and drop the new one in.

Rzeppa
06-25-2007, 08:21 PM
I've replaced them both with and without yanking the whole spring pack off. Doing it with the spring pack sitting there in front of you is easier, but a LOT more work in terms of getting it to that point.

Do you have one that's broken for sure or are you just worried in case it might happen?

subzali
06-25-2007, 08:37 PM
Just worried cause it happened to Mike :p:

Rzeppa
06-25-2007, 08:47 PM
Just worried cause it happened to Mike :p:Okay then, stop worrying. I broke one at Moab in 2001, drove all the way home before having to fix it, no problem. The U-bolts should take most of the strain, the spring pin is kind of window dressing once the u-bolts are installed and torqued down. If it's not broke, don't worry about it :-)

If it's hanging by a thread, worry about it and prioritize it.

Red_Chili
06-26-2007, 10:20 AM
I carry trail spares, and did have to use them once... to help out a CJ on the trail! :lmao:

Not hard to do trailside.

treerootCO
06-26-2007, 10:27 AM
I am not sure why but my junk seems to rely on the spring pins for locating the axle. I check and recheck the u-bolts and have probably tightened them to the point the metal is starting to stretch. Both times I lost a spring pin, the axle moved backwards under power and put the tire into the fenders. I would be really concerned if it did that on the highway:eek:

Another thought that wasn't covered is whether or not to use a soft material or something hardened. Both of mine were grade 8.8 metric that broke so I believe there is some truth to using a softer material.

Uncle Ben
06-26-2007, 02:02 PM
I am not sure why but my junk seems to rely on the spring pins for locating the axle. I check and recheck the u-bolts and have probably tightened them to the point the metal is starting to stretch. Both times I lost a spring pin, the axle moved backwards under power and put the tire into the fenders. I would be really concerned if it did that on the highway:eek:

Another thought that wasn't covered is whether or not to use a soft material or something hardened. Both of mine were grade 8.8 metric that broke so I believe there is some truth to using a softer material.


Anything that is in a shear plane should be a grade 5 or equivalent. Grade 8's are non shear applications where minimal stretch is needed. Grade 8's will shear easier than a grade 5.

Rzeppa
06-26-2007, 05:29 PM
I am not sure why but my junk seems to rely on the spring pins for locating the axle. I check and recheck the u-bolts and have probably tightened them to the point the metal is starting to stretch. Both times I lost a spring pin, the axle moved backwards under power and put the tire into the fenders. I would be really concerned if it did that on the highway:eek:

Another thought that wasn't covered is whether or not to use a soft material or something hardened. Both of mine were grade 8.8 metric that broke so I believe there is some truth to using a softer material.Yeah, that's how I can always tell when I've lost one too...the tire starts rubbing the back of the fender well. You can (with the frame supported of course) loosen the u-bolts, pound or pry the axle back into sorta the right spot and re-tighten. This has gotten me home on the highway no prob. It's the rocks and ledges that move it, on the road the u-bolts can hold it just fine. At least they have for me all the way home from Moab.

Metric grade 8.8 = SAE grade 5

As far as Kevin's comment about shear versus hardness, I have read that too. I have also read that SAE grade 8 is still stronger, including shear. I dunno which is right. Generally speaking, I'd stick with what the factory uses, which is metric 8.8.

Red_Chili
06-27-2007, 07:40 AM
And who'd a-thunk we would learn so much about simple spring pins? :D

I've heard of, and used, allen head bolts for shear pins. Though this will work in a pinch, sounds like that might not be the hot setup? Too hard?

bustanutley
06-27-2007, 08:25 AM
I use button head cap screws, no issues.

subzali
06-27-2007, 12:07 PM
Allen heads should work, I believe they come in Grade V right?

J Kimmel
07-15-2007, 06:56 PM
Anything that is in a shear plane should be a grade 5 or equivalent. Grade 8's are non shear applications where minimal stretch is needed. Grade 8's will shear easier than a grade 5.


So it sounds like grade 5 is better in this application? I'm going to get some spares, I just replaced mine. I pulled my springs today to fix a broken stud in the housing that holds the leaf spring plate on. I checked the spring pins and they were trashed.

Is there any sort of magic bullet for this?? I swear it seems that every time my springs are off the pins are trashed. I've got maybe 10 trails between Moab and Montrose on these springs, and maybe half that on these pins(I replaced them this winter when I took it apart to add a 6* shim).

Hulk
07-15-2007, 11:43 PM
I carry spares. I bought the spring pins at Off-Road Ltd over at Colfax and 225. They had a bunch to choose from, IIRC.

Uncle Ben
07-16-2007, 08:43 AM
So it sounds like grade 5 is better in this application? I'm going to get some spares, I just replaced mine. I pulled my springs today to fix a broken stud in the housing that holds the leaf spring plate on. I checked the spring pins and they were trashed.

Is there any sort of magic bullet for this?? I swear it seems that every time my springs are off the pins are trashed. I've got maybe 10 trails between Moab and Montrose on these springs, and maybe half that on these pins(I replaced them this winter when I took it apart to add a 6* shim).


Shims are hard on pins! Get or make longer heads on the pins. One thing that is very important is re-torque! A week or so after you have done work and had the plates off re-torque them. Everything will settle and the u-bolts will stretch a little.

J Kimmel
07-16-2007, 10:15 AM
ya....like treeroot, I re-torque mine quite a bit. I should've cut and turned when I shortened the longside. Man that is a lot of work!!! I think I will link before cutting and turning.

I suppose I carry spares and keep an eye on them, one of them was bent a little, one was like a "S"!!