View Full Version : 2F head rebuild ???
06-26-2007, 12:53 PM
I was wondering if anyone can tell me what the going rate is for getting the head on a 2f rebuilt? I was also going to get the head decked a bit to boost compression.
What is normally included in a, "standard" rebuild? How much material can you shave off of a 2F head?
If it makes a difference it is from an 83.
Thanks in advance for any info.
06-26-2007, 06:16 PM
You can shave off at least a thousands off a stock head. The machine shop will probably only take off enough to get it flat..
Standard rebuild IMHO would include checking true, decking, and lapping the valves.
I think you would have to go more than a thousands to boost compression.. look around mud in the 60 section. There should be info from Mark W about it.
06-26-2007, 08:28 PM
I had mine done for about $250 give or take in March I believe. That included new springs, one new valve, tapping and putting a plug in the oil galley hole, facing it, lapping the valves. My valve retainers were good and my valve seals were good, otherwise they would add a little extra. I took mine to Gunn Automotive FWIW.
06-28-2007, 01:33 PM
Thanks for the help guys. In one of those, "friend of a friend" deals a shop told a good friend of mine that they would do him a favor & hook me up at $350ish. But it didn't sound like they were replacing anything so much as decking the head for me & then making sure everything worked properly. This shop doesn't normally work on Landcruisers, they build race car engines & such. But it doesn't sound like they are offereing me a good deal at all...
I appreciate the advice!
06-28-2007, 09:20 PM
Yeah here's how it broke down:
Valve Job - List $120 Net $90
Resurface Head .015 - List $58 Net $46
Bent Intake Valve - List $13.24 Net $9.46
12 Springs - List $62.70 Net $44.79
2 Keepers - List $4.20 Net $3.00
Oil Seals - List $34.81 Net $24.81
Tap and Plug Oil Gallery - List $30 Net $25
Total $249.53 after tax. I never looked at my receipt before, I never noticed the List vs. Net price. Looks like I got a good deal! He just broke it down for me on the phone after I took it in and they had it apart, and I had no reason to look at the receipt 'cause I trusted 'em! They know 2F heads really well and come pretty well recommended by some others in the club. :thumb: :thumb:
06-29-2007, 06:58 AM
I had my head shaved 0.050" when it was rebuilt. I've heard of people going as far as 0.100" but I believe that make high octane fuel a requirement. I'm able to run 85 oct just fine.
06-29-2007, 10:23 AM
Thanks for all of the advice guys!
Anybody happen to have the contact info for Gunn Automotive? I did a search for them & there is one listed aroudn 150 S. Federal. Does that sound like the right place?
06-29-2007, 01:57 PM
Yep that's it.
06-29-2007, 03:35 PM
I hope that engine works out for you Abe. Make sure and pull the oil pan and check the bearings as well so you don't go through all that work and need to replace them. Let me know how it goes, Im glad I could contribute to breathing life into a 40.
06-29-2007, 04:28 PM
I'm hoping it works out well too. I'm jazzed about getting the motor put in eventually. Until then i am just enjoying tinkering with it & planning. I was planning on pulling the oil pan & side cover, if for no other reason just to put new gaskets in & see what it looks like under there. Of course, unless something looks really messed up, I won't know the difference anyway.
On that note, anyone have any idea how you replace the rear main seal? I know it should be done as a part of a clutch job, which I am going to do. Also, is there any way to replace the seal that goes on the front of the crank, under the pulleys? I can't help but think I should do all of those types of things now, while they are easy to get to & work on...
is it just a press in seal sort of thing, or a huge job???
Pressing in the seal isn't that hard. It's usually getting to the seal that's the huge PITA.
06-29-2007, 04:55 PM
How big of a PITA? I have the toyota 2f manuals & also a Haynes manual, but other than that I am a hand tool guy. The engine in out of the truck & will be on an engine stand on Sunday. Will the manuals be enough to walk me through it, or should I consider hiring that job out?
If you have the engine on an engine stand, now is the time to do it. The hard part is doing the rear seal while the engine is in the truck -- you have to yank the tranny backward to get to the seal. That's the PITA part.
Be careful to drive the new seal in straight. If it gets too crooked, you will end up with a new leaky rear seal. A good thing to do is take the seal to Home Depot and look for PVC to drive it in, so that it gets equal force to all areas of the seal.
vBulletin® v3.7.1, Copyright ©2000-2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.