View Full Version : battery light and handbrake light
07-05-2007, 09:11 AM
Are both on right now on the red truck. IIRC Ige had this problem with Clampy and it was some kind of diode that failed and was backcharging the electrical system or something - what's the fix, new alternator?
07-05-2007, 09:51 AM
I believe so. Your regulator and/or diode block are toast. It is not hard to swap diode boards from Yota Yard and end up with a good unit, take yours down though so they match.
Change your brushes while you're at it and likely you won't have to touch it for 100K.
07-05-2007, 10:34 AM
This is a brand new rebuilt alternator from Autozone, so I think I'll just go replace it under warranty.
07-11-2007, 08:50 PM
My truck died on me again this afternoon...does anybody know or can venture a guess as to what might be damage if (because) the truck was run with the dummy lights a blarin' for a couple hundred miles? New alternator is not charging the battery, but battery charges on the trickle charger, and this time the low battery voltage dummy light didn't go on...all warning lights are currently off, indicating everything is fine. But it's not. :mad:
07-11-2007, 10:07 PM
positive that the alt is hooked up and is the correct amperage for the truck?
07-11-2007, 11:29 PM
yep, one diode allowed voltage to flow backwards (?)....i was told drive it like normal, pull batt cable when parked, or swap alternators. i opted for b.
07-12-2007, 05:13 AM
This is a 60 amp alt. from Autozone (which I've heard is the wrong place to get alternators from, but NAPA was closed at the time so there you go). It is a direct part# lookup for my truck. Has the same plug, shape, and wiring going to it as the original. Had the cart check and they said the alternator was charging fine but the battery wasn't absorbing it, however that's possible. I'm going to have the battery checked this afternoon.
07-12-2007, 09:56 PM
Okay so the battery and alt. are both testing good off the truck. I did notice I have a 6mA "drain" going to the fuse block with ignition off, lights off etc. Is this a lot/bad/a sign?
Here's what I know: with the current alt. and a good battery, the two lights were on for a while but when I had it wound up to get onto NB I-25 from Hwy 24 in the Springs I hit a bump and bam both lights went off.
The other thing I know is that when my truck died the other day there was no warning light at all to tell me low voltage or anything.
To me this smells suspiciously of some wiring connection rubbing on something somewhere. But where? I'm going to start chasing wires tomorrow (great way to spend my day off :rolleyes:) and see what I come up with. Hopefully it's obvious, I have no idea how those wires get from one side of the engine bay to the other and how many opportunities they have to cross something while going there...:doh:
07-13-2007, 12:20 AM
Good luck Matt...I hate electrical Gremlins and both on my 40s have had them. Slow drain, blinkers behaving wierdly, you name it. Hopefully you get lucky and start at the "correct" end and find the problem quickly :)
07-13-2007, 09:59 AM
Simple question for you minitruck owners - does the battery light come on when you turn the key to the "ON" position, but before you start the truck? I never specifically remember that, but right now mine is not coming on. But the fuse is good because all the other lights are coming on, and the charge fuse inside the engine bay is good.
Alternator is not putting out any amps as it sits on the truck.
07-13-2007, 12:11 PM
I think I got it fixed now. Went to Autozone, tested the charging system and the batt. on the truck and it said the battery was dead. Replaced the batt. and it's charging at right above 14V, battery light goes on when I first turn the key (which is normal), goes off once the truck starts, and is at 14V when I got home. Lessons learned:
-Diode warning light does allow you to keep driving, but replace alternator at earliest chance because the whole alt. is likely to die soon after, most likely in an inconvenient location. And once alt. dies, there's no new warning that your battery is not getting charged, so soon after your battery will die too.
-If you battery is not a deep cycle (and maybe even if it is) and can no longer make enough juice to even keep the truck/car running, then it is likely that you will also have to replace the battery like I did. Running it that low is very bad.
-Your truck will not run just on the alt. It needs the battery to absorb the power surges.
-Do not necessarily trust the inside battery tester to determine whether your battery works or not. Last night my battery checked fine, but the cart tester this morning said it was toast.
-Even if your battery receives charge from a trickle charger and cranks your engine fine and holds charge fine it does not necessarily mean that it is okay.
I think that's about it. Time will tell whether it's 100%, for the moment I'm not too keen to go very far the way it is...
I bet you have it fixed. How old was the battery?
07-13-2007, 12:15 PM
Back to your regularly scheduled programming. :D
Which of course is me being a drama queen about something else :rolleyes: :D
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