PDA

View Full Version : 80 series front axle service


jjhancock
10-02-2007, 06:08 PM
Just ordered my parts from CDan to do the front axle service on my 80. Is there anybody that would be willing to give me a hand doing this? I am a first timer at this job, but I'm NOT afraid to get my hands dirty or spend all weekend doing the job. I'm more than happy to supply food and beer to anybody who has done this and wouldn't mind giving me a hand.

I'm in Boulder but am willing to travel. Seeing as how it's probably going to take an entire weekend, I'm thinking it might be better to do the job at my house, but I'm open to travel if necessary...

I swear once I know how to do it, I'll volunteer to help out the next person who posts asking for help doing it the first time!

Cheers :beer:

-Justin

timmbuck2
10-02-2007, 06:16 PM
I need to do that as well...maybe we can bribe someone to help out...

nakman
10-02-2007, 07:18 PM
Man, I'd love to help but just can't for a couple more weeks.. up to my ears in remodel projects. How soon you guys need to do this? If you did it on a Saturday, I could potentially run over in the evening for a :beer: or two and some opinions... but not for a couple more weekends.

acon40
10-02-2007, 07:26 PM
Add me to the list of need to do....might be game to help.

Romer
10-02-2007, 07:54 PM
I could probably come up for a few hours depending on the day. Have you read the Front Axle FAQ on Mud? I would also be happy to PM you my number in case you run into an issue and no one is there.

My recommendation would be to tear everything down by yourself and have someone there as you put it back together. That's what I did the first time I did it.

You doing your rortors and brake pads then as well?

Romer
10-02-2007, 07:56 PM
Here is the link to the FAQ with pictures

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78276

Taking apart the thing to be careful of is the cone washers. You want to get a brass drift and have the nuts flush with the edge of the bolt as you hit it so you don't mangle the threads.

farnhamstj
10-02-2007, 08:23 PM
I learned a neat way by hitting the side of the drive plate with a small hammer, they poped out after a 1/2 dozed hits each. works for ifs anyway. Good luck and expect to make a HUGE mess, get some big pieces of cardboard for your floor. doable by yourself

jjhancock
10-03-2007, 12:33 PM
I have seen the thread on mud Romer, that helps a ton. I just kinda figure I'm going to make some big mistakes if I do it by myself the first time, esp the putting back together part.

I also intend to do new brake rotors and pads, and will likely go with the DBA drilled and slotted rotors with 100 series pads.

I won't be able to tear this down for at least 3 weeks, but I do have a second vehicle so that will allow me to take my time on the job when I tackle it. Maybe Nakman or Romer could stop by and help with the re-assembly then.

Timmbuk2 and Acon40, you guys are welcome to come over and spectate / help / drink my beer when I start the tear down or the re-assembly :) I'll post back when I've chosen a day to get started. Thanks!

60wag
10-03-2007, 01:48 PM
I just serviced my front axle a few weeks ago and am in Boulder. I'd be happy to lend some suppport. Let me know when you're ready to dive into it.

Bruce

Romer
10-03-2007, 04:34 PM
You sure you want to drilled and slotted rotors? There is a lot of back forth discussion on the benefit of slots and if they really do any thing, but I think the consensus is drilled are not good as rocks and other debris get in there and need to be cleaned out a lot.

Tim/Kevin - I think you guys both had them, is that correct?

corsair23
10-03-2007, 05:02 PM
Agreed with Ken on that...I think Tim mentioned he plans to switch to just the slotted rotors as well. On my LX, I think I'll probably go slotted with 100 series pads. On the 80 I stuck with OEM rotors and 80 series pads (because I didn't plan on replacing the rotors at the time :doh:).

Although, I'm not sure the cost to go to slotted rotors is worth it although those that have them do seem to like them. One comparison test I recently read did show some advantages over numerous hard stops, which isn't something I tend to do and try to avoid. I've always wondered how they turned slotted rotors, let alone slotted and drilled :dunno:

PabloCruise
10-04-2007, 05:24 AM
I just serviced my front axle a few weeks ago and am in Boulder. I'd be happy to lend some suppport. Let me know when you're ready to dive into it.

Bruce

Bruce,

I am tied up the next few weekends, but I do have a copy of El Mariachi's 80/450 knuckle rebuild on DVD if anyone would like to borrow it. It is pretty thorough. I watched it a few times and then dove in.

It did take me longer than expected - I did one side per day. However, I was also switching over to Aisin hubs as well and rebuilding those. The second side was going faster than the first until the little BB that goes in the dial went shooting across the garage!!! :mad: :rant: :mad: :rant:

I did find a stash of those BB's if anyone needs some.

:cheers:

nakman
10-04-2007, 08:14 AM
Agreed with Ken on that...I think Tim mentioned he plans to switch to just the slotted rotors as well. On my LX, I think I'll probably go slotted with 100 series pads. On the 80 I stuck with OEM rotors and 80 series pads (because I didn't plan on replacing the rotors at the time :doh:).

Although, I'm not sure the cost to go to slotted rotors is worth it although those that have them do seem to like them. One comparison test I recently read did show some advantages over numerous hard stops, which isn't something I tend to do and try to avoid. I've always wondered how they turned slotted rotors, let alone slotted and drilled :dunno:

They just turn them. It's still a flat plane on the outside, and you're only taking off a few thousandths at a pass.. just need to go a little slower. And yes I have been down on the drilled, mainly because the little holes can fill up with dirt, particiculary if running through a lot of muddy water, which I tend to do at least once per year.

As for stopping, they've actually been pretty good... flawless for the first two years then I've noticed them not stopping quite as well in the past 9 months or so. In fact my brakes won't hold the truck if on the edge of a steep incline anymore, like say I'm going down the "ledge side" of Wipeout Hill once my front tires crest the top of the ledge the truck just goes down, can't stop it. I suspect some bleeding and/or new fluid is probably in order, which I'll do once I resolve the slight vibrations I've got up front. And after a very in depth braking discussion last night, I'm now leaning towards having the front rotors turned, then cryogenically frozen.

corsair23
10-04-2007, 03:23 PM
And after a very in depth braking discussion last night, I'm now leaning towards having the front rotors turned, then cryogenically frozen.

:confused: Oh man, I missed the discussion on brakes? Crap

jjhancock
10-04-2007, 04:10 PM
I have drilled and slotted rotors on my Tahoe and they're awesome. Point taken on the drilled part though. I also never take my Tahoe off-road as that's what the 40 and the 80 are for :)

I think I may need to get hold of the El Mariachi DVD and watch it a few times before I tackle this. I may still take some of you up on your offers to help / drink beer with me though.