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subzali
11-26-2007, 07:32 AM
First trail breakage. Now I'm wondering what I need to do. I have a coarse spline pinion on my 4:11 setup currently. Thinking about options:

1. Get a new ring and pinion (and bearing? other stuff?) and put it in my current 3rd member, but I think that requires expertise in setting up gears right?

2. Get a whole coarse spline 4:11 3rd member and stick it in.

3. Get a fine spline (late 4:11 model FJ40 or FJ62) pinion and ring set and put it in my current 3rd member.

4. Get a fine spline 3rd member and stick it in.

Not knowing anything yet about full-floating rear axles, but thinking that sometime down the line I would like to go that route with Toyota cable lockers, does anybody know off-hand if there are any compatibility issues with those components and a 3rd member that they would be installed in? I cannot come up with any reason why there would be issues, but...

Uncle Ben
11-26-2007, 08:04 AM
First trail breakage. Now I'm wondering what I need to do. I have a coarse spline pinion on my 4:11 setup currently. Thinking about options:

1. Get a new ring and pinion (and bearing? other stuff?) and put it in my current 3rd member, but I think that requires expertise in setting up gears right?

2. Get a whole coarse spline 4:11 3rd member and stick it in.

3. Get a fine spline (late 4:11 model FJ40 or FJ62) pinion and ring set and put it in my current 3rd member.

4. Get a fine spline 3rd member and stick it in.

Not knowing anything yet about full-floating rear axles, but thinking that sometime down the line I would like to go that route with Toyota cable lockers, does anybody know off-hand if there are any compatibility issues with those components and a 3rd member that they would be installed in? I cannot come up with any reason why there would be issues, but...

Aftermarket gears will be your cheapest option plus they will be fine spline! Of course that would mean you need to decide how big of tires your gonna run then you can get the gear ratio you need but that also means x2! Decisions, decisions.....

Another thought....Treeroot will be swapping out gears soon and I think he running 4:11 fine splines.....

wesintl
11-26-2007, 08:21 AM
Fastest and easiest would be to drop in some course spline 4.11 chunks. Doesn't ige have like have a dozen?

treerootCO
11-26-2007, 09:32 AM
The fj60 has 3:73s and there are two? spares of 4:11s under the workbench. The 4:11s will be coming out of the 40 as soon as I get around to wrenching again...

subzali
11-26-2007, 09:38 AM
I'm thinking I will want to go with the fine spline 4:11, Mike do you know what flavor the ones on the workbench are? And in your 40 are they the fines?

nuclearlemon
11-26-2007, 10:18 AM
If you go fine spline, you'll need to either change out the pinion flange or swap to a stub shaft from a fines spline driveline.

i have a (few) 4.11 course diff if you need one.

treerootCO
11-26-2007, 10:27 AM
Fine spline was 12/78 FJ40 only and I think the FJ62 had some. Everything in the garage is coarse spline

Uncle Ben
11-26-2007, 10:34 AM
Fine spline was 12/78 FJ40 only and I think the FJ62 had some. Everything in the garage is coarse spline


Some late production 77's had it also. All 62's are fine spline 4:11's! 80 rears are also fine spline 4:11's and will fit but are designed to be full floating so a c-clip relief must be machined on the side gears or of course do the full float thang. Early FJ-80's with semi float rears are direct swap.

Uncle Ben
11-26-2007, 10:35 AM
Fine spline was 12/78 FJ40 only and I think the FJ62 had some. Everything in the garage is coarse spline


Some late production 77's had it also. All 62's are fine spline 4:11's! 80 rears are also fine spline 4:11's and will fit but are designed to be full floating so a c-clip relief must be machined on the side gears or of course do the full float thang. Early FJ-80's with semi float rears are direct swap. All round fine spline flanges can be redrilled for your flange pattern as the centering ring is the same on all Toyota flanges.

nakman
11-26-2007, 11:32 AM
I've also kept the gears that came out of my 80.. they will be a lot like the gears that Treeroot takes out of his 80. Matt you can have them if you want to go that route. Yes it requires some skill to set up gears, but it's nothing a lot of folks in the club can't handle.

But why rebuild your axle, why not just swap the whole thing? Would you be happier if you had a set of 60 axles under there instead? Like here's a set.. comes with a backup 2F & 4 speed. http://denver.craigslist.org/car/489700117.html

Uncle Ben
11-26-2007, 11:42 AM
I've also kept the gears that came out of my 80.. they will be a lot like the gears that Treeroot takes out of his 80. Matt you can have them if you want to go that route. Yes it requires some skill to set up gears, but it's nothing a lot of folks in the club can't handle.

But why rebuild your axle, why not just swap the whole thing? Would you be happier if you had a set of 60 axles under there instead? Like here's a set.. comes with a backup 2F & 4 speed. http://denver.craigslist.org/car/489700117.html


Great swap but has two issues.....FJ-60's have 3:70's and front springs need to be outboarded.

subzali
11-26-2007, 11:49 AM
and I don't want the width and I think I'm going to go full-floater in the future...

nakman
11-26-2007, 11:50 AM
Great swap but has two issues.....FJ-60's have 3:70's and front springs need to be outboarded.

Oh yeah you right.. alright Matt scratch that, here's a set of full floaters for you http://denver.craigslist.org/car/483520710.html

may as well swap over the 1fz too. :D

subzali
11-26-2007, 12:18 PM
meh.












It's an 80. :D

Rzeppa
11-26-2007, 05:48 PM
First trail breakage. Now I'm wondering what I need to do. I have a coarse spline pinion on my 4:11 setup currently. Thinking about options:

1. Get a new ring and pinion (and bearing? other stuff?) and put it in my current 3rd member, but I think that requires expertise in setting up gears right?

2. Get a whole coarse spline 4:11 3rd member and stick it in.

3. Get a fine spline (late 4:11 model FJ40 or FJ62) pinion and ring set and put it in my current 3rd member.

4. Get a fine spline 3rd member and stick it in.

Not knowing anything yet about full-floating rear axles, but thinking that sometime down the line I would like to go that route with Toyota cable lockers, does anybody know off-hand if there are any compatibility issues with those components and a 3rd member that they would be installed in? I cannot come up with any reason why there would be issues, but...

No question, #2 will be by far the quickest, easiest and cheapest. I've picked up coarse spline 3rds for anywhere from $50 to free. You can put any full size cruiser 3rd member into a FF, just leave out the c-clips :-)

FYI, having owned both the newer and the earlier FF rears, I like the earlier ones much better.

subzali
11-27-2007, 06:48 AM
You mean the one on your FJ45 vs. the one on the HZJ75?

Rzeppa
11-27-2007, 06:22 PM
You mean the one on your FJ45 vs. the one on the HZJ75?Correct. Was into the HZJ75 WAY too often, but recently did a routine service on the 1978 FJ45 and found the design much easier to work on. The HZJ had a very similar FF hub/spindle design as a USA spec FZJ80, but had FJ60-style drum brakes. I like the earlier seal design much better, and I liked that I could use a regular hub socket on the hex adjuster/ and locking nut instead of the newer 80 style design.

A major flaw in both designs (which is also present in the cruiser front FF hub design, which almost never sees as much torque) is the way two little the dowel pins see almost all the torque. Once they snap off, they "waller" the holes they press in to and the hub is never as strong. There are three fixes for this, but of course none are stock.

subzali
11-28-2007, 08:38 AM
Wanted to give a public thanks to Ige for helping me get the most major part I need to get back on the road! Thank you! I'm just going to go with a coarse spline 4:11 for now, it's been good to me so far and I'll keep future wheeling under control, gotta get new oil seals for the front end, rear end, rebuild/replace a couple rear wheel cylinders, pull the t-case and inspect/likely replace the front output bearing (I get scary noises when I come off the throttle in 4hi @ 45 mph or so), and inspect the other gears for when I ran out of oil. Put in new drain plugs in the diffs, t-case and tranny, reinstall the Lockright and (hopefully) get some new rear springs and new shackles all around. Whew!

Thanks again everybody! :risingsun

MDH33
11-28-2007, 09:14 AM
Matt, I just did rear brakes on my 40 and CDan on MUD was able to get me all four OEM wheel cylinders and new shoes for around $250. Sure beat rebuilding those wheel cylinders. Let me know if you need a hand setting up those brakes.

The 2.5" Old Man Emu Springs Kevin has would work nicely on your rig too.

bustanutley
12-04-2007, 08:17 AM
pictures of broken pinion? did the u-joint bind to make the break happen?

subzali
12-04-2007, 11:01 AM
No pictures yet, maybe this weekend. I didn't take a close look at it but my buddy said it wasn't a shear failure, it failed in bending (i.e. I came down on the rock and that snapped it - it wasn't over-torque from suddenly gaining traction)

subzali
12-11-2007, 09:16 PM
Well my camera decided it wanted to stop working, but progress has started on getting my truck back together. The first step was making space in the barn, which my dad and I did last night. It's still dirt floor, so we put down some plywood sheeting, layed a couple tarps over it, then drove on top of it.

-Pulled my rear driveshaft and the front output nose cone last night. The bearing race in the nose cone has scoring and pitting on it, not sure what that's about...but going to put it back together for now. I'm trying to figure out what would make noise ONLY when the shifter is engaged in 4hi, but not 2hi. Hubs locked in both instances, it ONLY makes noise in 4hi. Thoughts?

-Tonight I tore both front axles down to the steering knuckles, going to replace the oil seals (they were both leaking after only 2 years?) and put them back together after I put Ige's 3rd member on (thanks again!).

-Also tore down rear axle and pulled 3rd member to reseal all that stuff, since we did a quick Permatex job on the side of the road - I need to put my locker back in anyway and replace a couple studs and nuts for the 3rd member - it seems they've been hit by rocks? :confused: ;)

-Pulled the ebrake drum as well because even after rebuilding it it still does not engage satisfactorily. It looked clean, just like when I put it together, so now I'm thinking there must be an adjustment in the cab that's out of whack, allowing me to pull the lever all the way out without engaging the drum?

-I also cracked my 8274 apart, and it's kinda gross looking inside there. I guess I clean it out best I can and add new oil (it looks kinda low, but I have nothing to gauge that by)

-Also have to replace the brake booster and a couple wheel cylinders, replace the rear axle seals, replace my drain plugs with allen head plugs, paint my frame gussets and license plate bracket I got for the bumper, and get a new skid plate fabbed up (Jim? ;)), and that should be it! Whew that's a lot of work...I'm going to try and not break anything anymore...

nuclearlemon
12-12-2007, 08:43 AM
-Pulled the ebrake drum as well because even after rebuilding it it still does not engage satisfactorily. It looked clean, just like when I put it together, so now I'm thinking there must be an adjustment in the cab that's out of whack, allowing me to pull the lever all the way out without engaging the drum?
...

where the ebrake cable goes through the firewall, there is a nut on each side to adjust in cable/housing in and out of the vehicle. move the cable more into the engine compartment to tighten it up. also, do you have the little adjuster on the ebrake cranked out?

subzali
12-12-2007, 03:20 PM
yep I've tried that mucho times and always has same result :( Since it's never really worked since I've owned the truck I finally figured it might be something else ;)

subzali
12-15-2007, 11:17 PM
Got parts on order, front and rear diff housings cleaned up, broken pinion removed from case, breather extensions up and coming...

One question - how does one remove the ring gear from the carrier? I'm having a little bit of a hard time finding a leverage point so I can really yank on those M14 bolts.

Okay two questions - trying to get the pinion bearing off, it's not coming easy - should I just quit fiddling with it and do a destructive removal method (puller and/or whacker bar thingy :hill:)? I hear that that's easier, but the FSM would suggest that you can remove it without destruction.

Setting up gears is gonna be fun! :thumb:

Rzeppa
12-16-2007, 12:13 AM
Got parts on order, front and rear diff housings cleaned up, broken pinion removed from case, breather extensions up and coming...

One question - how does one remove the ring gear from the carrier? I'm having a little bit of a hard time finding a leverage point so I can really yank on those M14 bolts.

Okay two questions - trying to get the pinion bearing off, it's not coming easy - should I just quit fiddling with it and do a destructive removal method (puller and/or whacker bar thingy :hill:)? I hear that that's easier, but the FSM would suggest that you can remove it without destruction.

Setting up gears is gonna be fun! :thumb:Answer to first question: Air impact wrench has worked best for me. If not available, you'll have to make a makeshift SST to slip a big a$$ breaker bar to hold the sucker while you honk on them with your other breaker bar with the socket on the end.

Second question, big a$$ press to get the race off. The one down by the pinion gear itself is always a PITA. Heating it up can help, it expands it some.

Are you putting new gears in? Are you installing new bearings?

Uncle Ben
12-16-2007, 12:55 AM
Got parts on order, front and rear diff housings cleaned up, broken pinion removed from case, breather extensions up and coming...

One question - how does one remove the ring gear from the carrier? I'm having a little bit of a hard time finding a leverage point so I can really yank on those M14 bolts.

Okay two questions - trying to get the pinion bearing off, it's not coming easy - should I just quit fiddling with it and do a destructive removal method (puller and/or whacker bar thingy :hill:)? I hear that that's easier, but the FSM would suggest that you can remove it without destruction.

Setting up gears is gonna be fun! :thumb:


Matt, The pinion bearing will come off easy with a clamshell (pictured below)and a press. If you use a large vise you can clamp the carrier by the case. You can also use a cheater of some kind slipped through the side gear windows of the case.

http://imageserver.isnweb.com/OTC1122.jpg

subzali
12-16-2007, 06:42 AM
Thanks guys, yeah Jeff I thought of the impact wrench as I was lying in bed last night :thumb:

I'm gonna see how much a new bearing is, and since I need to buy a few new tools anyway I'll just get it all at once.

I'm replacing the broken pinion, but I only want to use the ring and pinion from the donor diff I was given. I think the bearings look good, so I'm going to reuse those, unless there's a reason not to. I think I'm gonna destroy the pinion bearing getting it off, so I'll have to replace that one and get a new race.

Rzeppa
12-16-2007, 02:46 PM
Hi Matt, I have a clamshell as Kevin has pictured above if you'd like to borrow it.

subzali
12-18-2007, 07:25 AM
Just for fun :D

subzali
12-18-2007, 07:27 AM
Check out the plastic bag job on my front diff to get me home ;)

And the inside of my winch was yummy :) I got it pretty clean now.

subzali
12-18-2007, 07:29 AM
Got any metallurgists around here?

It looks like a torsional shear fracture to me, but I can't figure out the dark "heat spot" or the melted-looking surface. Now I got a nice heavy paperweight (that is, the main part of my pinion - it's fun too because it has a spinning bearing on it!) :D

subzali
12-18-2007, 08:43 AM
Got a photographer here at work that took a couple pictures closer up to get a better look.

Shark Bait
12-18-2007, 12:20 PM
30 year old parts. Bound to break sometime. :eek::rolleyes:

subzali
12-18-2007, 03:52 PM
Pretty sweet reflection :cool:

subzali
12-26-2007, 04:19 PM
Hey Jeff, I actually could probably make use of that clamshell, so let me know what works best for you, your pm box is full. It won't be until next week most likely.

subzali
01-22-2008, 08:55 AM
Latest update: not sure if master install kits are available for aftermarket vendors for setting up ring and pinion sets, but for whatever reason I decided to piecemeal the items together from Toyota. The clamshell worked good to get the pinion bearing off to the point where I could get something else on it to drive it the rest of the way off.

Got my winch back together with 6 oz. of non-detergent SAE 30 per Warn, mounted my front bumper (let's hope for the last time for a while) after painting my gussets and license plate bracket.

Got my front output nosecone on the t-case off and inspected it, everything looked okay, found out it was leaking because nobody had put a gasket on that surface! :eek: I put a gasket on and going to drive it carefully to make sure I don't grenade anything in there (hopefully preload on the bearing is okay and maybe the noise in 4hi goes away - if not I'll be ginger with it through the winter and take it apart this summer - have to choose my battles right? I cleaned up my parking brake (again) and put it all back together, and then was able to adjust it so it's tight, so hopefully after all this time with a marginal hand brake it will actually work the way it's supposed to.

Got my rear diff housing all cleaned up and new rear axle seals installed, and then put my diff in, installed Lockright and driveshaft.

Last night I finally got my front diff in. I was setting up my gears but then went to Motoloco's to get some new rear springs and he gave me a '73 front axle - which has the same 3rd member as mine. So I used our tractor with the fork to get it out of the back of my truck, pulled off the drums, Selectro hubs and disassembled the front axles and pulled the diff. It looked like it was in good shape, so I cleaned up the front axle housing (realized the gasket was cooked to the housing - :doh: - so I had to remove all the studs one by one by the double-nut technique, clean it up with a wire wheel and a rag shoved in the axle tubes, and then reinstall all the studs with Locktight and then put the 3rd member on) and it's all happy now. Now I can leisurely set up my gears in my current 3rd member, and have a spare one laying around if I ever have to do this again. I need to make up a couple SSTs first per Charlie Glabe's writeup, but at least now I can relax about it.

I was going to recenter my steering knuckles, but the top bearings broke so I ordered a kit from Cruiser Outfitters and I'm just going to redo it. So waiting on that, maybe Sat. night I can get my front axle buttoned up.

Have to restake the front pinion nut, do my front axle, and replace my three frozen rear wheel cylinders, and then I'll be on the road again! Next is to relocate my CB and install a Ham, and replace my rear springs at some point (probably with an overload leaf installed), which will also include redoing my shackles per Whatley's article a few TT issues ago, and then all will be good!

MDH33
01-25-2008, 08:17 AM
...

Have to restake the front pinion nut, do my front axle, and replace my three frozen rear wheel cylinders, and then I'll be on the road again! Next is to relocate my CB and install a Ham, and replace my rear springs at some point (probably with an overload leaf installed), which will also include redoing my shackles per Whatley's article a few TT issues ago, and then all will be good!


Progress! :thumb:

Anything specific you need to do when installing the new pinion seal and nut? My front pinion is still drooling 90 wt and I have the new seal and nut but just wondering if there is anything I need to know before opening it up?

subzali
01-25-2008, 08:30 AM
Nope, it's very easy. Just yank the driveshaft, remove the nut and washer, pull the yoke, use a seal puller to remove the seal, drive the new seal in, slide the yoke back in, put some permatex in to seal the splines, put the washer on, put the nut on and torque it down then stake it with a punch (some people also put red Locktite on the nut as an extra safety), then put the driveshaft back on (some people put blue Locktite on the d-shaft bolts so they don't come out). 1/2 hour. Actually I'm not sure if you have to drain the diff or not; I'm not sure if the oil comes up that high just sitting there or if it's slung up to the pinion bearing just while the truck is moving.

Got my wheel cylinders replaced the other night, so I'm down to front axle service, putting the driveshafts on, topping off all the fluids, readjusting the brakes once they're pumped up, and then drive it and do an oil change first thing! :thumb: I'm shooting for having it on the road again before Feb. 1!

RicardoJM
01-25-2008, 08:33 AM
Matt, if you're going to to be working on the front axle Saturday night, would you mind if I stopped by to learn/lend a hand?

subzali
01-25-2008, 08:40 AM
I will be working on it Saturday night, not sure exactly what time but probably after 7 or so. If you don't mind the drive to Sedalia (~1/2 hour from Hampden/285 and either Santa Fe or I-25 (take your choice)) and standing in the cold barn (I do have a space heater though), then anybody is welcome to come. PM me for directions/address. My plan is to center the steering knuckles (I have to get the tool back to TJ). If that goes quickly then the axle reassembly can start.

timmbuck2
01-25-2008, 09:28 AM
if I get the engine out and also get some kitchen work done, I will be there. PM me directions.

T

subzali
01-29-2008, 07:02 AM
Pulled a 7pm-3:30am Saturday night - got my knuckles centered, the passenger side was way off, got my front axles back in, front driveshaft on, flipped my rear driveshaft around, then moved some people all day Sunday, then went up to Fort Collins to check out TJ's 40 and get the tool back to him, then came back to Denver to pick up some furniture from my aunt. I'm nuts :hill:

Then Monday night went down again, filled up the front and rear diffs (85-140 for the Lockright in the rear sucks when it's this cold), bled the brakes and went to town to get some gas. Everything was hot - the rear brakes were dragging and the front hubs were hot (the brakes might have been dragging, don't know). Got home and adjusted the rear brakes out and loosened the wheel bearings a smidge, but the brakes are still weird. When I first pushed them in, the pedal went down a long way, but then pumped up. Then I went a little further and the pedal was RIGHT THERE and the rears locked up. So I'm going to check that the return springs didn't fall off or something weird, then re-bleed them all.

Stupid question - This is a dual circuit master cylinder, so if you lose pressure on one circuit (like the rears like I did when I replaced the cylinders), do you still have the bleed the fronts or should they be okay? I have to bleed the whole system anyway, but I was just curious. I guess it doesn't take that much longer to do, so you might as well do it, but still...

treerootCO
01-29-2008, 08:21 AM
Yes you need to bleed the brakes front and rear. Start from the furthest point from the master and work in from there. I am not sure where the thought that a dual circuit master works independently from each other. When I lost my front brakes at the Caravan For Kids, I lost my bakes completely. The master is one cylinder and if one circuit goes out, the fluid from the other drains out as well. Any air in either circuit affects the other because without hydraulic pressure, the air can be compressed and the pedal goes to the floor. I am getting fairly confident in adjusting drum brakes to the point that they work just as well as disc brakes (when not wet or dirty).

http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/32848-troubleshooting-brake-problem.html

post #28 more or less...

MDH33
01-29-2008, 08:25 AM
... This is a dual circuit master cylinder, so if you lose pressure on one circuit (like the rears like I did when I replaced the cylinders), do you still have the bleed the fronts or should they be okay?[/b] I have to bleed the whole system anyway, but I was just curious. I guess it doesn't take that much longer to do, so you might as well do it, but still...

You should probably disconnect both circuits and bench bleed the Master Cylinder before you start bleeding the system. That could be the reason you had to double pump. This will give you a chance to run some new fluid through your whole system as well.

subzali
01-29-2008, 09:09 AM
Cool. My brakes have always worked really well up to now (like Treeroot my rears stop as well as my front discs), so I've never had to deal with problems, but I figured that's about all there was to it.

Rzeppa
01-29-2008, 10:41 AM
Stupid question - This is a dual circuit master cylinder, so if you lose pressure on one circuit (like the rears like I did when I replaced the cylinders), do you still have the bleed the fronts or should they be okay? I have to bleed the whole system anyway, but I was just curious. I guess it doesn't take that much longer to do, so you might as well do it, but still...
No, you don't, but you may as well. Normally, by the time you have some kind of work to do on one end, the other end's fluid is dark and yucky and should be replaced by now.

There should be no need to bench bleed the master unless air got inside it somehow. The air you get in the lines from doing cylinders and calipers doesn't usually go all the way back to the M/C unless you don't cap off the lines while you're working and draw air in through the reservoir at the M/C.

Mike, there may be something wrong with your M/C. I have had one end go out and the other end continue to work (many years ago on my 76 FJ40) and more recently on my daughter's 85 runner. The front and rear circuits are supposed to be independent of each other, other than they are mechanically actuated by the same rod.

Having to double pump is caused by wheel cylinders being adjusted too loose. Air in the system causes sponginess, but does not have anything to do with double pumping.

subzali
04-02-2008, 05:19 PM
Well, it was my brakes, the problem was that I replaced the booster at the same time and didn't give the pedal any freeplay when I put it in, so the master cylinder was slightly on all the time. I loosened up the nut to give it some freeplay and it's fine now.

But what I was really wanting to do is update this thread with part numbers that some might find useful if they end up setting up their own diffs. Charlie Glabe's Writeup (http://members.cox.net/cglabe1/Diff/diff.html) is a great resource, once you get used to all the terminology, so that's what I will try to help with. BTW - make or find someone who has the side adjuster tool - you will be stopped dead in the water without it. I just wanted to say a few things and answer a few questions that I had to spend time wondering about, so don't make fun of me for being stupid :tongue2:. BTW, all this stuff comes in a diff setup kit, but this is for the people who decide they want to go through Toyota and build a kit piecemeal.

Pinion depth shims - this guy comes out when you pound out the inner pinion bearing race. It's about three inches in diameter, and its purpose is to set the pinion depth so that the tooth pattern on the ring gear is okay. They come in five different sizes from Toyota, you need to (by trial and error) find the correct one for your ring, pinion, and housing setup.

Toyota calls them "Shims":
90564-68001 - 0.25mm (0.0098")
90564-68002 - 0.30mm (0.0118")
90564-68003 - 0.35mm (0.0138")
90564-68004 - 0.40mm (0.0157")
90564-68005 - 0.45mm (0.0177")

For example, a 0.40mm shim came out when I pressed out the race. As I'm setting up my gears, I will again use a 0.40mm shim. If the tooth pattern is not right, then I will have to pound out the race again and REPLACE the 0.40mm shim with a different shim - you DO NOT stack shims unless you are very unlucky.

Next are the Preload Washers - These have a thickness to them and a beveled edge that sits against the shoulder on the pinion, and they are the fine tuning adjustment of the preload. You only use one.

Toyota calls them "Spacers":
90560-30184 - 2.74mm-2.76mm (0.108"-0.109")
90560-30185 - 2.77mm-2.79mm (0.109"-0.110")
90560-30186 - 2.80mm-2.82mm (0.110"-0.111")
90560-30187 - 2.83mm-2.85mm (0.111"-0.112")
90560-30188 - 2.86mm-2.88mm (0.113"-0.113")
90560-30190 - 2.89mm-2.91mm (0.114"-0.115")
90560-30191 - 2.92mm-2.94mm (0.115"-0.116")
90560-30192 - 2.95mm-2.97mm (0.016"-0.017")
90560-30199 - 2.98mm-3.00mm (0.017"-0.018")

Finally, the Preload Shims - These work in conjunction with the Preload Washers, and get you close while you dial it in with the Preload Washers. They come in one size only, and you can use up to four (4) if needed.

Toyota calls them "Shims":
90564-30035 - 0.25mm (0.010")

So for the whole kit, you will need to get one (1) each of the five (5) Pinion Depth Shims, one (1) each of the nine (9) Pinion Preload Washers, and four (4) of the Pinion Preload Shims.

HTH for anyone interested...