View Full Version : Good carb tuning shop?

12-19-2005, 09:54 PM
I need my Fj-40 to pass emissions... It has a header on it and a non USA carb with a nonUSA disti.

It smokes a little bit...WIthout an O2 sensor it is very difficult to get it tuned in just right... anyone know of a good shop in the denver area that does that kind of stuff?



12-19-2005, 10:02 PM
Here is a link that will give you an easy method to tune it your self. It's pretty easy. May want to use some carb cleaner as well.


12-19-2005, 11:15 PM
These guys help me pass emissions annually:
Toy Car Care (http://www.toycarcare.com/)
They are just past Centennial airport.

12-20-2005, 11:05 AM
I have a pretty good detailed explaination of how to tune a carb with timing. Which should be done together. I looked for it last night on my comp but I think I actually have a hard copy in my 40 folder. I'll see if I can post it up. My 64 blew easily.. I'm sure your 76 shouldn't be a big deal.

12-20-2005, 01:19 PM
I've used the vacuum method, it works okay. As noted in Ken's post, make sure you've dealt with any vacuum leaks first, always work on it at proper operating temperature, and tweak your timing first. Another method I use is:

(1) Screw mixture all the way in. Then back it out 1.5 turns.
(2) Start truck. Increase idle adjust if it won't stay running.
(3) Back out (richen) mixture and listen to RPMs increase. When they don't increase any more, you're there. If you feel like it, go one more half turn to compensate for not having the air cleaner on. I really don't think it makes that much difference in the real world.
(4) Turn idle back down.

Note that the 2 barrel Aisan carb has a "choke breaker". As soon as the truck starts and a vacuum is made, the vacuum actuates a diaphragm which opens the choke just enough to allow some air in. So when you do adjust your choke, you don't have to worry about leaving a gap when the choke is closed. Also note that there is a separate, fast idle adjustment which is only active when the choke is closed. Like the regular idle adjustment, it's on the linkage behind the carb. I know there's a factory spec for the RPM, but just tweak it until it runs good when it's cold, and not doing anything when the choke is open.

Emissions notes: If you're too lean, you won't pass emissions due to "lean misfire". Turning the idle up above spec will help get you lower numbers. While running more advance than factory spec. 7 BTDC will normally get you better power and mileage, for emissions you want to retard it back to spec. No idea why, but you get better numbers, even though power and mileage suck. You can always put everything back after you've passed.

12-20-2005, 01:39 PM
That looks familiar :D

I was reading a great article about a power steering conversion the other day and I didn't even realize it was Ken until the very end. :)

12-20-2005, 04:41 PM
I was reading a great article about a power steering conversion the other day and I didn't even realize it was Ken until the very end. :)

You mean this one?


Thanks for the compliment

12-20-2005, 08:24 PM
how many write up do you have in the technical links :D

12-20-2005, 09:31 PM
how many write up do you have in the technical links :D

A few, but I am not as skilled as most of the others here. When I did something, I would do a search and put bits and pieces together. When I did the work, I would take pictures and document what I did so the next guy could learn from me. I found it very helpful when someone had done a detailed write-up on how to do something, I am just returning the favor in areas I did not see a comprehensive write-up. You should do the same as you work on your rig. Others will really appreciate it.

Back on the emissions, make sure when you pass you get the 5 Year collector plate so you never have to get an emissions test again.

12-21-2005, 09:27 AM
how many write up do you have in the technical links :DBack when Woody first started his site, about a quarter of the tech links were to articles on my site. He's got quite a few more now.

12-21-2005, 09:49 AM
You should visit Jeff's web site, the link in his sig line. There are a lot of good write-ups there.

12-21-2005, 12:21 PM
If you are looking for a shop to do it, Try Charley's Garage in Boulder. Steve, the Cruiser mechanic, has been working on cruisers for 25+ years. Knows his stuff.

Charley's Garage
4715 Broadway
Boulder, CO 80304 - 0571
(303) 443-7714

12-22-2005, 11:32 AM
Passed emissions, am now on the collectors plates. I think I need to go back and retune, I am getting a little smoke under acceleration. Idling and reving the engine dont produce the smoke. The smoke is grey, not black and not really blue as far as I can tell. I can only make observations throught the mirror and only when a car is behind me otherwise the smoke blends with the road and it is hard to see.

Anyway, could be oil? How would one check, and wouldnt it always smoke if that were the case?