PDA

View Full Version : My bumper build...


Rezarf
01-05-2008, 09:30 PM
Well, today I started with this...

Rezarf
01-05-2008, 09:32 PM
... and ended with this! :eek:

Thanks to all you dudes who helped me get the hang of this welding thing! :bowdown: :D :thumb:

Hear is the long version (http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/197893-bumper-build-101-a.html)over on mud.

Shark Bait
01-05-2008, 09:48 PM
Very nice, Drew! :clap:

PatrolMan
01-05-2008, 10:14 PM
I was wondering about the same issue brought up on mud. Why didn't you square cut the bumper and weld in the anchors from the back and the front? Figure it would offer added strength. Otherwise really nice work!

AxleIke
01-05-2008, 10:40 PM
Wow.

Absolutely stunning.

Puts me to shame.

Killer, killer work man. I am really speechless.

RockRunner
01-05-2008, 11:33 PM
Looks great, I like the look.

MDH33
01-06-2008, 10:55 AM
That looks great, can't wait to see it mounted to your rig! :beer:

Rzeppa
01-06-2008, 11:37 AM
Sweet! Very nice Drew!

Bighead
01-06-2008, 06:41 PM
Nice work. :thumb:

corsair23
01-07-2008, 01:00 AM
Looks great but shouldn't you be working on finishing up my trailer first before you start on other projects? :D :lol:

powderpig
01-07-2008, 07:54 AM
Drew, looks great and will make a fine addition to the 40. 1 question for you. Is the pull points surface welded or pass through to the back of the bumper? I know this can be debated on to how safe it is. Just for knowledge base, I was wondering. later Robbie

Rezarf
01-07-2008, 09:55 PM
Robbie, I did surface weld the tabs on. I had seen it done lots of places and figured that made it okay :eek:

Honestly, it is pretty debated, but I feel like with the 220 running maxed out i was getting lots of burn through to the back of the .25" bumper. It was glowing pretty bright orangish yellow after each pass, and the rubberized coating/paint vaporized, so I feel like they are on there pretty good.

Think I should be worried? FWIW, I have only ever had to really tug on one of those hooks twice in all my days out. I figured these will see normal to moderate use but I do plan on adding a snatch block to my gear to open up my options a bit during recovery.

Drew

Beater
01-08-2008, 07:59 AM
how did you prep the pull points? that's the real question. If you beveled them, ran a root pass, then stitched over it, then you're fine. This is the only area I was ever really anal about on a bumper I made. I always used stick, with 7xxx rod, then stitched over with mig.

I did just do mig once, and it held through a competition, but I beveled a full 45deg 1/4" then back filled.

j

powderpig
01-08-2008, 08:01 AM
I do not know if you should worry or not. You will have to decide that. I personally would not do any real hard tugs on it. Your 40 is lighter than a 80, I would never reccomend this on a 80. I think the biggest reason not to do surfaqce welds is the potiential of it coming off under a hard yank that can develop lots of kenetic force. Winching off it with syn line would be my perfered method. I think I would also use the rubber band kenetic tug straps if it was a 80 as well(insead of the yellow flat straps). Of course this is my opinion and I am sure others may chime in. I can explain more on friday if you show up if needed. Even in my training they suggest to find a different place to do dyminic tugs off of if you suspect surface welding tabs.
You will have to be the one to determine if you need to worry about this.
Later Robbie

IanB
01-08-2008, 08:26 AM
Looks great but shouldn't you be working on finishing up my trailer first before you start on other projects? :D :lol:

bwahahahahahaha :lmao:

Those are some really pretty MIG welds bro :cheers:

IanB
01-08-2008, 08:31 AM
I do not know if you should worry or not. You will have to decide that. I personally would not do any real hard tugs on it. Your 40 is lighter than a 80, I would never reccomend this on a 80. I think the biggest reason not to do surfaqce welds is the potiential of it coming off under a hard yank that can develop lots of kenetic force. Winching off it with syn line would be my perfered method. I think I would also use the rubber band kenetic tug straps if it was a 80 as well(insead of the yellow flat straps). Of course this is my opinion and I am sure others may chime in. I can explain more on friday if you show up if needed. Even in my training they suggest to find a different place to do dyminic tugs off of if you suspect surface welding tabs.
You will have to be the one to determine if you need to worry about this.
Later Robbie

You could cut slots in the back of the bumper in the center on the blocks and weld it up from th backside without redoing what you have done. That would add significant strength. Need to use the mill?

Uncle Ben
01-08-2008, 09:01 AM
I would think you OK as your pictures show a decent bevel for the root weld. Attchment points are always spooky when you think about it! Not many bumpers out there have the frame attachment welded through the bumper so technically isn't that the same principle?

You could cut slots in the back of the bumper in the center on the blocks and weld it up from th backside without redoing what you have done. That would add significant strength. Need to use the mill?

That what I was thinking....take your angle grinder or die grinder and slot the backside and do a hot fill weld if in doubt.

AxleIke
01-08-2008, 10:28 AM
Not to worry Drew.

As long as your entire BUMPER doesn't come off, then you are still miles ahead of me!!!

:D :lmao:

Rezarf
01-08-2008, 06:18 PM
Not to worry Drew.

As long as your entire BUMPER doesn't come off, then you are still miles ahead of me!!!

:D :lmao:

Yeah, but if one of these suckers popped off it would really take off! :eek:

I still have the front tow hooks on the frame and those are faster to attach a strap onto anyhow. I think I will open the back up and burn it in there as well. I did bevel and run two seperate SLOW passes and got LOTS of heat.

Thanks for the imput guys. I might to do a bit more reading up on this.

Drew

Rezarf
01-08-2008, 06:26 PM
This might be worth 3000 words...

pic one: beveling the metal tabs.

pic two: weld after first pass

pic three: weld after second pass.

Red_Chili
01-08-2008, 06:49 PM
Purty welds.

Never mind the "for a dadgum novice" part. Purty, and not even relatively so.

For the rear, just go through the bumper. Stronger than the base metal then, IMHO.

Rezarf
01-09-2008, 10:50 AM
Sounds like that is the route to take. I have see them surface mounted on lots of things so I honestly didn't think much to the contrary... I am such a lemming! :D

How would you guys suggest correcting this, one slot and fill it up super hot? Two slots if I can fit them? Have Ian mill out a section in the middle to fill them in?

Thanks! :thumb:

Drew

Beater
01-09-2008, 10:57 AM
a little concave, (more wirespeed, less stickout) but should do the trick. Looks like you could use a little more gas flow.

Another way to add some strength is to drill and plug the rear. (did I just type that?)

drill .0375 hole into d-ring mount through the base metal, just about .0125 deep. Then over bore the base metal hole. Then fill with weld.

j

Uncle Ben
01-09-2008, 11:30 AM
a little concave, (more wirespeed, less stickout) but should do the trick. Looks like you could use a little more gas flow.

Another way to add some strength is to drill and plug the rear. (did I just type that?)

drill .0375 hole into d-ring mount through the base metal, just about .0125 deep. Then over bore the base metal hole. Then fill with weld.

j

That would work well!

powderpig
01-09-2008, 11:46 AM
That would be wonderfull to make the attachment point alot stonger. Just drill a good hole and fill it.

Rezarf
01-09-2008, 11:47 AM
That seems like a small hole, is that what I am shooting for?

Drew

powderpig
01-09-2008, 11:59 AM
1/2 to 3/4 sounds good to me. that way you can work the edges first then fill the hole. But others may know better. later robbie

Rezarf
01-09-2008, 12:21 PM
That makes more sense. I could fit 4 or so 1/2" holes down the rear of the bumper.

Drew

Beater
01-09-2008, 02:12 PM
I wouldn't go that big. on plug welds, they hold best if you have overlap, as you then spread out the haf (heat affected zone) and you spread the strength out. so, smallish hole into what you want to hold on, then bigger on what you want to hold to.. think along the way of a "T" with the flat part or top of the "T" against the flatside of the base holding the part on.

Rezarf
01-09-2008, 06:07 PM
Kinda like a counter sink. I get it, small hole then bigger hole.

I won't get to this for a few more days but I will post up when I do.

Drew

Rezarf
01-11-2008, 04:14 PM
So before I start to drill and weld on this thing again, John do you think that super tiny holes like you mentioned will work well? I was thinking like a 1/8" "bore" and open the bumper to something like a 3/8" hole?

Kinda clueless here. But I think the process is a no brainer for peace of mind.

Thanks!

Drew

Rzeppa
01-11-2008, 05:21 PM
So before I start to drill and weld on this thing again, John do you think that super tiny holes like you mentioned will work well? I was thinking like a 1/8" "bore" and open the bumper to something like a 3/8" hole?

Yes, whenever you drill large holes with anything other than a CNC (where you might be using a mill instead of a drill bit anyway), you always want to drill a pilot hole first. It is easier to properly locate (doesn't wander like the final large bit) and provides the path for the larger bit. With a drill press you can often go straight from pilot to large, but with a hand drill it is often easier to go 2-3 steps up in size successively.

Rezarf
01-11-2008, 07:22 PM
Thinking more like, a small hole in the shakle hanger, then a large hole in the base bumper material. However, I agree, stepping the bits makes a huge difference. My welders handbook calls for a "rosette weld" I guess b/c it resembles a rose bud. Robbie, did you call it a rosie weld today, I am just now understanding that I think.

Drew

IanB
01-11-2008, 09:28 PM
Rosebud!

powderpig
01-12-2008, 07:35 AM
What are hand book for except to have the correct non slang words in them. Yes a rosette weld. We seem to learn different slang for same weld Ian. You are on the right track Drew. Later Robbie

Beater
01-12-2008, 08:21 AM
for hillbilly's like me, plug weld is the official term.

Uncle Ben
01-12-2008, 09:40 AM
Rose weld.... ;)

wild turkee
01-12-2008, 05:15 PM
where did you get the D-ring mounts from, I am building a bumper fro my 4-runner and am looking for the mounts for the D-rings and those are beefy looking. Sam

Rezarf
01-13-2008, 01:03 PM
where did you get the D-ring mounts from, I am building a bumper fro my 4-runner and am looking for the mounts for the D-rings and those are beefy looking. Sam

Sam-

I got them from Rocky Mountain Quality Machining in Colorado Springs, the dude makes tons of stuff for some of the big names out there, like Currie and others, he had a sweet shop, I found him on ebay, his name is RMQM.

Great product.

Drew

Rezarf
01-14-2008, 09:40 AM
I am stoked! I am getting FREE powder coat from a student of mine who needs a few projects to coat... :D just had to share, for some reason my :Princess: didn't find it too :cool:

I will post up some pics when I get it back!

Drew

Beater
01-14-2008, 01:35 PM
double the uv. really. you can thank me later

Rezarf
01-14-2008, 07:02 PM
Well, I got to finish the fab on my bumper today. I took everyone's advice and opened up the rear of the bumper with a pilot hole then I opened up the base metal even more to fill them with weld.

I was actually really impressed with how much heat and wire it soaked up as I filled the pilot hole. In the second pic, I stopped to snap a pic, then I started to perform a "rose, plug, rosette" weld around the edge of the bigger whole to work it into the base material more. In the end, the welds looked like an "8." All in all, I was shocked at how much heat I was able to get into the weld.

You can see how much HAF I had on the front of the bumper. I appreciate everyone's help and advice, I feel better tuggin' on these mounts now.

:risingsun:

Uncle Ben
01-14-2008, 07:55 PM
Schaaaaaweet! :thumb::thumb:

Beater
01-14-2008, 09:04 PM
don't finish the welds if you can get away with it. Meaning, no grinding or sanding... use your trusty chipping hammer to loose the dingleberries


:)

powderpig
01-15-2008, 07:23 AM
Great job Drew,:cheers::thumb:

Rezarf
01-15-2008, 09:42 AM
I just left the welds, my buddy is media blasting it and powder coating it this week in high gloss with extra UV protection... I am really stoked! Thanks for all the help gentlemen!

Drew

Beater
01-15-2008, 11:53 AM
gloss will fade quickly. I would do semi or textured. Easier to touch up too.

j

Rezarf
01-15-2008, 02:31 PM
gloss will fade quickly. I would do semi or textured. Easier to touch up too.

j

Why start semi-gloss then? :D

Beater
01-15-2008, 03:11 PM
because it is not the gloss that fades, it is the pigment below. Will turn milky/chalky underneath a layer of gloss. You are more than welcome to come look at some sculpture that I can illustrate this with.

When this happens, it is harder to match the paint for touch up. the worst colors for this are red, yellow and black... blue is bad as well, but mainly the lighter shades.

Rezarf
01-16-2008, 10:32 PM
So my student friend calls and asks "what kind of metal was that bumper, the powder coat came out all wierd?" :eek:

We'll see, sometimes you get what you pay for :D

Beater
01-17-2008, 09:40 AM
I'll bet they didn't do a complete blast, or chemical dip.

Rezarf
01-17-2008, 10:52 AM
It is a kid, trying to learn, I can always paint over it :D

Rezarf
01-18-2008, 08:22 PM
Back from powder coat! :hill: :hill:

What a great job my buddy did, he was worried because he saw little imperfections in the powder coat, but in reality it was just a little pitting from the surface rust I couldn't sand out. :mad:

I think it came out great! :thumb:

wesintl
01-18-2008, 08:24 PM
yeah, you won't see that once it's covered in mag chloride.. I mean mud ;)

Looks good :thumb:

AxleIke
01-18-2008, 08:49 PM
Looks great man!!!

I thought it might be a case of self criticism rather than actually bad.

I know that all too well.

Hulk
01-18-2008, 10:23 PM
Wow, that looks awesome!

bh4rnnr
01-18-2008, 10:42 PM
Bumpers looking good Drew!:thumb::beer:

Rezarf
01-18-2008, 11:24 PM
Thanks guys for all the nice words. :thumb:

I was starting to think the hoop was too high, but with the lights it looks "right"

I had a glitch tonight trying to get it on, I forgot to mark which winch wire (say that 3x fast) and I went with my gut, and might have gotten it wrong. Gotta' actually look at the wiring tomorrow and button it up! :D

Uncle Ben
01-18-2008, 11:27 PM
Can't wait to see it in person....looks amazing in pictures! :thumb::thumb:

Rezarf
01-18-2008, 11:39 PM
Can't wait to see it in person....looks amazing in pictures! :thumb::thumb:

Name the place and time! :D:cheers:

RicardoJM
01-19-2008, 07:19 AM
That looks awesome Drew. There is no need to take that back to bare metal and start over.

Rezarf
01-19-2008, 02:06 PM
:woot:

My new bumper, total cost out of pocket $20 :eek: :D

Uncle Ben
01-19-2008, 02:36 PM
That looks great but would look better if it was dirty! ;) :cheers:

Jacket
01-19-2008, 04:07 PM
Very nice Drew!

corsair23
01-19-2008, 07:27 PM
WAY :cool: :thumb:

Looks a lot like mine and Radar's and cost you about 1/20th of what ours did...That right there is awesome sir!!

Rezarf
01-19-2008, 11:50 PM
WAY :cool: :thumb:

Looks a lot like mine and Radar's and cost you about 1/20th of what ours did...That right there is awesome sir!!

...if you add in the cost of the welder :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

Personally, I don't :thumb::lmao: