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Ocho
02-08-2008, 11:34 AM
My 80 has a few surface rust spots around the windshield and on the upper tailgate. Is there an economical way of just fixing these spots or would this require an entire paint job?

nuclearlemon
02-08-2008, 12:20 PM
if they are just light rust, sand them to clean metal, put a little primer on and try to match the paint.

Ocho
02-08-2008, 12:52 PM
Would an aerosal can of touch up paint with the matching color code do the job?

Bikeman
02-08-2008, 06:48 PM
I have recently used Rust Buster on flash rust spots on my frame and it is supposed to kill the rust and seal it. This is done without removing the majority or sometimes any of the rust, and then you paint over it. If you are going to remove the rust, you need to get all of it and be 100% sure you did, or it will creep back like cancer.

SteveH
02-11-2008, 02:09 PM
If the rust starts under the window or windshield gasket, you really should remove the glass and treat the rust completely. If you just touch up the part you can see, up to the edge of the gasket, it'll be right back.

Uncle Ben
02-11-2008, 02:15 PM
If the rust starts under the window or windshield gasket, you really should remove the glass and treat the rust completely. If you just touch up the part you can see, up to the edge of the gasket, it'll be right back.


True dAT!


The only rust on my 40th was there also. I had the body shop go after it and that little spot the size of a quarter ended up being over a foot long under the gasket! I told the body shop I wanted it to go away forever....they opened the pinch weld and sand blasted the crap out then coated the inside. So far OK!

I'm guessing it is a '97? Sounds like many '97's had a problem with the rear upper hatch not being properly rust proofed.

nakman
02-11-2008, 03:08 PM
I'm guessing it is a '97? Sounds like many '97's had a problem with the rear upper hatch not being properly rust proofed.

Another reason why 96 is the best year.. :D

Uncle Ben
02-11-2008, 03:30 PM
Another reason why 96 is the best year.. :D

Especially if you have one of the ultra rare green ones! :thumb: :hill:

bskey
02-11-2008, 08:26 PM
I had the body shop go after it and that little spot the size of a quarter ended up being over a foot long under the gasket! I told the body shop I wanted it to go away forever....they opened the pinch weld and sand blasted the crap out then coated the inside. So far OK!

How much did that run you? I have pretty rough rust around my windshield (worst on the truck) and I am debating pulling the windshield once it cracks and doing it myself, or having a shop do it.

Uncle Ben
02-12-2008, 12:43 AM
How much did that run you? I have pretty rough rust around my windshield (worst on the truck) and I am debating pulling the windshield once it cracks and doing it myself, or having a shop do it.


$750ish 3 years ago

Rezarf
02-12-2008, 11:25 AM
There are a few good rust converters out there, one of my favorite's is Extend it is made by permatex and works great. It might be worth shooting on before things go too far south as you decide how much to go after it.

Just a thought.

Drew

Ocho
02-21-2008, 02:14 PM
750 aint bad. Any suggestions on body shops?

bskey
02-21-2008, 06:59 PM
$750... I paid just a bit more for my entire truck.... hahah! I think I'll take this one on myself.

corsair23
02-21-2008, 11:56 PM
750 aint bad. Any suggestions on body shops?

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=4289

Pretty impressive stuff...

Inukshuk
02-22-2008, 12:38 AM
I was also concerned about the rust spots around my windshield. There were chips where the rubber met the metal and I suspected it went deeper. I also needed a new windshield and my State Farm policy is good for one no-deductible windshield replacement each year. So, I scheduled the repair - which was to use OEM glass and new rubber - and then about a week before started to trim away the rubber and see how bad the rust was. My plan was to then remove the rust with a 3M rust/paint removal wheel and prime. I found that the rust did not actually extend under the rubber. So, I was able to clean, and then apply a few coats of a rust inhibiting clean metal primer. I got Toyota touch up paint to finish it. Not a professional job but will give me a few years on the rust.

Ocho
08-19-2008, 12:56 PM
It sounds like getting someone in there that knows what they are doing and getting it all would be my best best. Any recomendations on cheap but good bodyshops in Denver?

DaveInDenver
08-19-2008, 01:10 PM
It sounds like getting someone in there that knows what they are doing and getting it all would be my best best. Any recomendations on cheap but good bodyshops in Denver?
Would have said Bill's guy up at CIM, but they seemed to have closed.

I had a good experience with Matrix Auto Body, just south of Evans on Jason St. (near the Air Care Colorado). Rich Deavers was my referred contact. But the job was small and my truck is Toyota White. So I can't really comment beyond a nice job yanking a few dents and matching a color that hasn't changed in 40 years.

treerootCO
08-19-2008, 01:26 PM
My 80 had the cancer showing from under the windshield rubber. I pulled the glass and there were multiple spots of rust around the parameter. The worst was under the cowl and required sandblasting to get all of it out. Sanding is not effective as it just grazes the top and doesn't get into the craters. If you sanded that deep you wouldn't have any metal left. I put a light film of body filler over the treated spots and went to town with the paint.