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RicardoJM
03-20-2008, 09:29 PM
I took my FJ40 in to test for emissions today and failed. At Idle my HC PPM is 1082 and the limit is 1000, my CO % was 4.80 and the limit is 4.50. The guy doing the test had to make some adjustments on my carb to get my RPMs down into the acceptable range. He also pointed out that my choke was not closed all the way. His advice to me was to get the carb adjusted and the choke fixed.

I've researched failed emissions and didn't see any shops on the southern side of town that others have used for carb adjustments. Any one have a recommendation for a carb shop/guru on the southern end of the metro area?

Jacket, you most recently went through this and mentioned a shop in Boulder helped you out - which shop?

wesintl
03-20-2008, 09:44 PM
I'd leave it as is... buy some heat, emissions passing juice, denatured alcohol with a gallon or so of gas or run it empty and put in 5 gal of e85.

theboomboom
03-20-2008, 09:47 PM
*hc Ppm 1080

nuclearlemon
03-20-2008, 10:30 PM
I'd leave it as is... buy some heat, emissions passing juice, denatured alcohol with a gallon or so of gas or run it empty and put in 5 gal of e85.

turn in your fuel mixture screws until it barely runs, bump the idle screw to make up for it (keeping track of how many turns per screw), add the multiple bottles of heet as wes said, take the test,when passed, turn all the screws back

Rezarf
03-20-2008, 10:46 PM
The dude on Arapahoe and Broadway will tune it 'till it passes for about $40, that is the guy Jacket went to. He is top notch, and if you come up here to get it tuned, the emmissions testing center is about 3 miles away from that shop. Cool thing is this dude has a "sniffer" and can keep adjusting till you are certain to pass.

Maybe Jacket will chime in with some more details

RicardoJM
04-22-2008, 08:41 PM
So here it is a month later and I have passed. I used Colorado Car Clinic for my final carb adjustments and used J&S Emissions on Oxford and Broadway. My final numbers:

HC at 1187 RPM 756
at 2397 RPM 349
CO at 1187 RPM 1.33
at 2397 RPM 2.17

I still have some engine work to look into as my vacuum is only at 11" and to get the HC down at idle, it had to be bumped up to 1200 RPM.

Mendocino
04-22-2008, 10:19 PM
Congrats Ricardo. Air Care Colorado is always a nail biter for me.:thumb:

BRP650
08-28-2011, 11:19 AM
My 1978 FJ40 failed emissions Thursday of last week, which I thought was odd because it passed last summer and I havenít changed anything. In comparing the test results from last year I noticed that my hunch was in fact correct. The test results were even slightly better than last year, but the CO% limit has dropped from 3.0 to 1.5.

2010 at idle CO% 2.42 LIMIT 3.0 PASS
2011 at idle CO% 2.12 LIMIT 1.5 FAIL

Really doesnít make sense to have such a strict limit for a 1978 vehicle which should qualify as a classic in the first place.

Anyway, after a quick search on the forum I found this thread and headed over to the Conoco on Arapahoe and Broadway in Boulder. Just as stated above, the dude there has a sniffer and knows his way around a carb. For $50 he was able to get my CO% from 2.12 down to 1.08.

Brought her back for the free re-test yesterday morning and she passed. Wanted to point out the change in emissions limit and also say thanks for the valuable info.

Jacket
08-29-2011, 11:13 AM
Funny - glad you passed. I wonder if that guy ever wonders why all the FJ40's around Boulder come to him.

akingf5371
08-29-2011, 10:53 PM
So, I don't mean to thread hi-jack, but I have a few questions on this subject. I just moved to Denver from Arkansas and of course bought an FJ40 upon arriving. It's an '82 and in pretty good shape except for a few things. One of those is that the previous owner put in a holly carb and removed all the emissions equipment. He installed a catalytic converter though. So, my questions, what does this mean for my emissions test? Don't I have to pass the test before registering the vehicle? Thanks.

MDH33
08-29-2011, 11:02 PM
So, I don't mean to thread hi-jack, but I have a few questions on this subject. I just moved to Denver from Arkansas and of course bought an FJ40 upon arriving. It's an '82 and in pretty good shape except for a few things. One of those is that the previous owner put in a holly carb and removed all the emissions equipment. He installed a catalytic converter though. So, my questions, what does this mean for my emissions test? Don't I have to pass the test before registering the vehicle? Thanks.

Yes, you will need to get the E test and pass to register it. Always ask the seller of a vehicle to get it E-tested before buying. I doubt it will even pass the visual inspection if it has all the emissions gear removed as you describe.

subzali
08-30-2011, 07:54 AM
Yep, you're going to have to find all the emissions equipment and get it in working order. IH8MUD is a good place to find this stuff. Luckily for you, your '82 has basically the same emissions equipment as an FJ60 (any model year), which a lot of people pull that stuff off of. It won't be that big of a deal for you to restore all that.

Good news is that you'll be able to ditch the Holley and go back to an Aisan carb, which is better for offroad use anyway.

Bad news is that Colorado stopped the rolling 25 year rule for emissions exemption, so you will have to get emissions tests every 2 years I believe, since yours is newer than '81.

rover67
08-30-2011, 08:57 AM
yup, welcome to the old as **** car club that still need emissions. I have an 82 40 as well.

Like Matt said, the engine is the same as an FJ60, so finding peoples junk emissions stuff on mud is not too tough.

Also, I thought the law in colorado was that the vehicle had to pass emissions before being sold???

SteveH
08-30-2011, 09:33 AM
>Really doesn’t make sense to have such a strict limit for a 1978 vehicle which should >qualify as a classic in the first place.

Colorado has been raising the standards on old vehicles for years - it's how you 'outlaw' old vehicles without actually prohibiting ownership outright. I expect the new federal Ozone standards will hammer a few more nails in the coffin. I am not optimistic about owning old trucks 10-15 years from now.

MDH33
08-30-2011, 10:23 AM
My 1978 FJ40 failed emissions Thursday of last week, which I thought was odd because it passed last summer and I haven’t changed anything. In comparing the test results from last year I noticed that my hunch was in fact correct. The test results were even slightly better than last year, but the CO% limit has dropped from 3.0 to 1.5.

2010 at idle CO% 2.42 LIMIT 3.0 PASS
2011 at idle CO% 2.12 LIMIT 1.5 FAIL

Really doesn’t make sense to have such a strict limit for a 1978 vehicle which should qualify as a classic in the first place.

Anyway, after a quick search on the forum I found this thread and headed over to the Conoco on Arapahoe and Broadway in Boulder. Just as stated above, the dude there has a sniffer and knows his way around a carb. For $50 he was able to get my CO% from 2.12 down to 1.08.

Brought her back for the free re-test yesterday morning and she passed. Wanted to point out the change in emissions limit and also say thanks for the valuable info.



>Really doesn’t make sense to have such a strict limit for a 1978 vehicle which should >qualify as a classic in the first place.

Colorado has been raising the standards on old vehicles for years - it's how you 'outlaw' old vehicles without actually prohibiting ownership outright. I expect the new federal Ozone standards will hammer a few more nails in the coffin. I am not optimistic about owning old trucks 10-15 years from now.

Yeah, same thing with my FJ60. It passed fine 2 years ago, but now with the stricter standards it won't pass even though the numbers haven't changed. :mad:

nakman
08-30-2011, 11:04 AM
Yeah, same thing with my FJ60. It passed fine 2 years ago, but now with the stricter standards it won't pass even though the numbers haven't changed. :mad:

And we've got a whole other thread for the 80 series... but the outcome is the same- same here. :mad:

Ironic that Ricardo's truck actually scored better than it did before, but that's no longer a passing grade. :rolleyes:

treerootCO
08-30-2011, 11:10 AM
Copying this from the other thread (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=10860&highlight=emissions) as Colorado emissions has changed again. Not a good idea to remove your emissions equipment if you didn't get grandfathered in.

Effective Sept 1, 2009 - 1975 or older NO EMISSIONS!
(for 5 year plates)

Effective: September 1, 2009:

Vehicles 1975 or older can apply for collectors plates at DMV
One (1) Tail-pipe emissions test is not required
Registration is done every 5 years
If ownership changes: emissions test is not required if new owner applies for collectors plates at DMV
But if new owner applies for regular plates, emissions test & registration is required every year.

"Grandfathered" Collector Vehicles:
1976 to 1984 vehicles registered as collector vehicles before September 1 2009 If owner does not register vehicle before end of grace period, collector plates are no longer valid; therefore, owner must get the appropriate emissions test and will receive regular plates

If ownership changes:
Vehicle cannot be automatically registered as collector vehicle; must comply with emissions standards.
1984 to 1982 dyne test - 1981 & older tail-pipe test - 1975 & older no test (see above definition)

Don't let them expire either ;)

24910

akingf5371
08-30-2011, 11:19 AM
yup, welcome to the old as **** car club that still need emissions. I have an 82 40 as well.

Like Matt said, the engine is the same as an FJ60, so finding peoples junk emissions stuff on mud is not too tough.

Also, I thought the law in colorado was that the vehicle had to pass emissions before being sold???

Ok, thanks for your help guys. Well, now where do I start to know exactly what I'm missing? I know I'm missing the smog pump, where do I find a diagram? Haynes? Sorry I'm new to this game. Thanks!

To answer a few questions. It is a Cali truck and he told me straight it up that it wouldn't pass the smog test, I thought maybe Colorado would be less strict. Which carb would you suggest I find? I'm already looking now. Thanks!

subzali
08-30-2011, 11:24 AM
Haynes is a pretty decent source; for later model FJ40s it might not be complete. The FJ60 Haynes might fill in some of the gaps.

You can check here as well:
http://www.sor.com/sor/cat048c.tam

Short list from memory:
-Carb
-Air pump
-Air Rail
-Air Bypass Valve (ABV)
-High Altitude Compensation (HAC) valve
-Vacuum Control Valves (VCVs)
-Vacuum Switching Valves (VSVs)
-2 Bimetal VSVs (BVSVs)
-Vacuum Transfer Valve(s) (VTV)
-Charcoal Canister
-EGR Cooler
-EGR Valve

rover67
08-30-2011, 12:09 PM
Ok, thanks for your help guys. Well, now where do I start to know exactly what I'm missing? I know I'm missing the smog pump, where do I find a diagram? Haynes? Sorry I'm new to this game. Thanks!

To answer a few questions. It is a Cali truck and he told me straight it up that it wouldn't pass the smog test, I thought maybe Colorado would be less strict. Which carb would you suggest I find? I'm already looking now. Thanks!

My suggestion would be to come by my place with your camera and a piece of paper to take notes on, then surf mud for the parts. Some of the parts are hard to find, others are easy. Again, the big benefit being that it is all basically the same as a 60. "Jim's got parts" (junkyard in denver) might also be a good resource, they usually have several 60's there. BUT, a lot of folks on mud will almost give away their smog stuff to get it out of the house. There was a guy up in summit county near here that was trying to get rig of his smog stuff a while ago..

a carb off of an FJ60 should be identical except for the AC Idle Up that could remain disconnected on your rig. I'd look for one of those...

akingf5371
08-30-2011, 12:31 PM
Thanks Rover, I might take you up on the offer to check it out. It gets shipped here on Thursday. So, if the emissions standards are so strict, why do people remove the smog components if they live in CO? Are other cities not so strict? Thanks.

MDH33
08-30-2011, 12:38 PM
Thanks Rover, I might take you up on the offer to check it out. It gets shipped here on Thursday. So, if the emissions standards are so strict, why do people remove the smog components if they live in CO? Are other cities not so strict? Thanks.

Most of Colorado doesn't have the E-Test, just here on the front range near Denver/Boulder.

akingf5371
08-30-2011, 01:33 PM
Ah, thanks. Well I'll see what I can come up with. If you all have any more advice please shoot it my way! Thanks.

subzali
08-30-2011, 01:55 PM
Plus, they only got so strict within the last couple of years. 6 years ago I got my FJ40 emissions-tested once, got Collector's Plates, and am not required to take an emissions test ever again as long as I keep my license and registration current.

However, if I were to buy the same year FJ40 today I would be required to get emissions tests every year.

akingf5371
08-30-2011, 02:45 PM
Ah, just put in a call to Rocky Mountain Cruisers to get a rough estimate for putting back in all the emissions components. He said it was about $3k and half of it was parts.. That is frustrating, wish I would have looked into that before purchasing.

subzali
08-30-2011, 02:55 PM
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

That might be the case if you buy all new/reman parts and pay the shop time for them to chase the parts down and install them. I would check out MUD, classiccruisers.com, cruiserparts.net, and SOR before going that route. I bet, doing it yourself, you'll end up in the $500 or less range.

Phrog
08-30-2011, 02:59 PM
Also keep in mind that the smog test is required only for front
range counties. If you own some land or a cabin elsewhere in
Colorado, or have a friend who is willing to let you 'move in'...
not that I'm suggesting anything inappropriate here.

-Phrog

rover67
08-30-2011, 03:04 PM
Just FYI I got all of my emissions stuff including a smog pump for $25 from a mudder who was trying to get rid of it. Carb might be more expensive. If you can't do the work yourself i might be able to help you out.

MDH33
08-30-2011, 03:09 PM
Also, before you spend any time/money, it wouldn't hurt to take it to a test station and see if it passes. Worst case is you fail and you're out $25. But, you might get some kid at the test center who doesn't know what to look for under the hood and it might run clean and pass.

akingf5371
08-30-2011, 03:10 PM
Whew... okay.. I was hoping for something around there. I have no problem doing it myself, I'm an amateur mechanic, but I can learn quickly. I was thinking the carb and smog pump would be the large pieces and after that it wouldn't be so bad, just a matter of tracking parts down. I guess I'll have to PM rover67 and see when I can swing by for a time to hang out. Also, on an similar note, the previous owner installed a Currie 3:25 rear axle for a smoother ride, he disconnected the front drive shaft and never used the 4WD. I have the original 3:73 and am planning to get it re-installed ASAP, any advice there?

subzali
08-30-2011, 03:22 PM
Also forgot the EGR cooler and EGR valve. Try to get the correct brackets for everything; however that may be a pain, or cause a pain if you can't get them. Does this Cruiser have headers? That might cause a problem as well.

Never heard of that (3.25 Currie diff). You should probably start your own thread with some of these other details for future reference, so they can be found again.

Reinstalling a rear diff is fairly easy.
Drop rear driveshaft (check bolts and nuts to make sure they are correct fine thread pitch. Make sure shaft is in-phase.)
Drain oil, remove inspection cover
Pull out center pin, spider gears, and c-clips
Pull axle shafts out far enough to clear differential. You might consider replacing the rear axle seals while you're in there.
Pull off differential
Reassemble with new (old) differential

You will need a paper gasket (3rd member to axle housing) and a cork gasket (diff inspection cover). Get some Toyota Form-In-Place-Gasket (FIPG) as well. Once your diff is back on, check your pinion for any play. I think you have the crush-sleeve type preload washer, so don't mess with it if it feels okay. Think about using blue or red loctite on the driveshaft bolts.

Do you have the front driveshaft and hardware so you can hook it back up?

rover67
08-30-2011, 03:32 PM
Also, before you spend any time/money, it wouldn't hurt to take it to a test station and see if it passes. Worst case is you fail and you're out $25. But, you might get some kid at the test center who doesn't know what to look for under the hood and it might run clean and pass.

very good point Martin....

akingf5371
08-30-2011, 05:55 PM
Also forgot the EGR cooler and EGR valve. Try to get the correct brackets for everything; however that may be a pain, or cause a pain if you can't get them. Does this Cruiser have headers? That might cause a problem as well.

Never heard of that (3.25 Currie diff). You should probably start your own thread with some of these other details for future reference, so they can be found again.

Reinstalling a rear diff is fairly easy.
Drop rear driveshaft (check bolts and nuts to make sure they are correct fine thread pitch. Make sure shaft is in-phase.)
Drain oil, remove inspection cover
Pull out center pin, spider gears, and c-clips
Pull axle shafts out far enough to clear differential. You might consider replacing the rear axle seals while you're in there.
Pull off differential
Reassemble with new (old) differential

You will need a paper gasket (3rd member to axle housing) and a cork gasket (diff inspection cover). Get some Toyota Form-In-Place-Gasket (FIPG) as well. Once your diff is back on, check your pinion for any play. I think you have the crush-sleeve type preload washer, so don't mess with it if it feels okay. Think about using blue or red loctite on the driveshaft bolts.

Do you have the front driveshaft and hardware so you can hook it back up?

Yeah, I have aftermarket headers if I remember correctly. The mechanic I brought it to mentioned that I would need new ones if I was going to return it back to original. I have the front drive shaft, but no hardware I don't think. I just figured it was a matter of bolting it back in. The bolts can't be anything special, right? :confused:

rover67
08-30-2011, 06:14 PM
The bolts are kinda special. I have extras..

Start a new thread on the truck so we can leave this one to the emissions stuff. Also it will get more folks looking at it and it can be your own.