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View Full Version : FJ40 New Parking Brake Cable


RicardoJM
04-20-2008, 08:50 PM
A couple of weeks ago the parking brake cable snapped. I ordered a new one from Stevinson and it arrived earlier this week. Knowing that every job will end up taking longer than I think it should, I waited until today to put it in.

I'm not spending as much time analyzing each and every step any more, I was pretty comfortable just digging in and getting down to business. I did research the job on MUD and review the Parking Brake Diagram (Figure 7-25 in body and chassis manual) and the research was very helpful. That said there were four areas of this job, that stick out in my mind as not being as smooth as I had hoped the would be.

The first was getting the end of the cable off the brake shoe lever. The cable would not pop out and I ended up cutting (mental note the Dremel is dead, dead, dead) it with some wire cutters. I then used a chisel and the BFH to open it up just a bit for the new cable to slide in.

The second real pain was the other end of the cable. The challenge here came primarily from the tight quarters. I had to first remove the old cable head, then install the new cable head. It seems simple enough but I really could not get both hands up in there at the same time so it took a while to get it done.

The third pain was entirely avoidable, but for grins I took apart parking brake plunger bracket from the assembly. Turns out there is a small spring in there that needs to go back just as it came off. If it does not, the plate does not get forced down to catch the slots on the plunger shaft. On the plus side, I did clean and lube it all up so it will work smooth


The final area was not so much a problem as a reflection of being weary and tired. After getting it all buttoned up, I put it on the driveway to test it out - but had not done any adjustment:eek:. If you had been there at that moment, I would have paid you to take my FJ40 away. But after briefly thinking it through I remembered that it needs to be adjusted. A little time working the cable in the firewall and the parking brake shoe aduster underneath and it holds solid on the driveway incline. :D

I will have to get back in there again soon to replace the shoes. One of them is pitted and scared. As I am writing this, I recall remarking that the drum surface was smooth and shiny - but I didn't look at it close enough to make sure it does not have a problem. Fortunately, this will be an easier job to get done now that I know my way around down there.

On the plus side, the inside of my brake was gunky, but dry. I was expecting to find (as others have) that the transmission was leaking fluid into the brake.

The whole thing to a long, long time so it is a good thing I have a day job as I would likely starve if I had to do this for a living.

Rzeppa
04-20-2008, 11:31 PM
LOL! I'm nodding my head grinning as in BEEN THERE DONE THAT on just about every part of your post. Not just the cable (yes I've done those), but so many "minor" jobs always take longer and turn into more work than they should have. Good post!

subzali
12-02-2010, 01:06 PM
for those that don't have leaking t-cases onto their parking brakes, have you found that the e-brake actually does what it's designed to do? I've never been able to get mine working right, and I still can't figure out why. I've speedi-sleeved the drum and put a new seal in, checked its adjustment, etc. but I still get leaks and my e-brake still doesn't work.

Air Randy
12-02-2010, 02:35 PM
I did the MudRak double seal on mine plus lots of silicone on the output splines, mine hasn't leaked since. The holding power was marginal until I got it adjusted a lot tighter after swapping in the new motor. Seems to hold pretty good now.

RicardoJM
12-02-2010, 04:38 PM
...checked its adjustment, etc. but I still get leaks and my e-brake still doesn't work.

...The holding power was marginal until I got it adjusted a lot tighter after swapping in the new motor. Seems to hold pretty good now.

The adjustment for the "under the dash" emergency brakes is at the bracket where the cable goes through the fire wall. There is a long threaded tube that you adjust to remove slack.

subzali
12-02-2010, 04:47 PM
which way does it need to be adjusted Ricardo? I saw that the other night and was having trouble figuring out how to get it to work right. There is also the adjuster on the back side of the drum itself. My brake has never worked because it was soaked with oil before, and now I don't know; I guess it's soaked again so replacing the seal didn't work or something.

RicardoJM
12-02-2010, 05:13 PM
which way does it need to be adjusted Ricardo?...There is also the adjuster on the back side of the drum itself....

That is a good question and I don't clearly recall. I believe you adjust it so that there is more of the threads in the engine compartment, i.e. by making the sleeve longer the distance the cable pulls becomes shorter. This results in the the brake shoes expanding further.

You have a good point about the drum side of things:thumb:. All things being equal, you will want to rotate the drum adjuster so that it is not putting any outward pressure on the parking brake before you adjust the cable.

The idea is the get the cable as tight using the engine compartment adjustment point, then use the adjuster on the drum to fine tune as the brake shoe pads wear.

Of course, if your pads are oil soaked - step one would be to deal with that first. It will also give you the chance to see hos the adjuster on the drum works:D.

nattybumppo
12-02-2010, 05:58 PM
Whoa...I never played with the adjuster in the cab, just on the drum. No wonder I have to pull the handle out all the way and then some for it to hold!

Old40Dog
12-02-2010, 11:32 PM
Whoa...I never played with the adjuster in the cab, just on the drum. No wonder I have to pull the handle out all the way and then some for it to hold!

If you've got any 90 wt on the emergency brake shoes, it's an exercise in futility. :D Stop any transfer case leakage first. then clean the shoes in some acetone then you'll have a chance of getting 'em to work. :) However, if the rear transfer case seal leaks again, all bets are off. Return to Go and do NOT collect $200. :lmao: An annual vigil IMO. Don't forget, these guys are 35+ years old guys....expect to be wiping their butts at least every few months.:lmao:

nattybumppo
12-03-2010, 12:40 AM
Fixing that leak was the first thing I did on this rig when I got it. It has been working well since, just out of adjustment, I have to pull it out too far.

If you've got any 90 wt on the emergency brake shoes, it's an exercise in futility. :D Stop any transfer case leakage first. then clean the shoes in some acetone then you'll have a chance of getting 'em to work. :) However, if the rear transfer case seal leaks again, all bets are off. Return to Go and do NOT collect $200. :lmao: An annual vigil IMO. Don't forget, these guys are 35+ years old guys....expect to be wiping their butts at least every few months.:lmao:

Rzeppa
12-06-2010, 12:31 PM
for those that don't have leaking t-cases onto their parking brakes, have you found that the e-brake actually does what it's designed to do? I've never been able to get mine working right, and I still can't figure out why. I've speedi-sleeved the drum and put a new seal in, checked its adjustment, etc. but I still get leaks and my e-brake still doesn't work.

Yes.

Rzeppa
12-06-2010, 12:36 PM
That is a good question and I don't clearly recall. I believe you adjust it so that there is more of the threads in the engine compartment, i.e. by making the sleeve longer the distance the cable pulls becomes shorter. This results in the the brake shoes expanding further.

You have a good point about the drum side of things:thumb:. All things being equal, you will want to rotate the drum adjuster so that it is not putting any outward pressure on the parking brake before you adjust the cable.

The idea is the get the cable as tight using the engine compartment adjustment point, then use the adjuster on the drum to fine tune as the brake shoe pads wear.

Of course, if your pads are oil soaked - step one would be to deal with that first. It will also give you the chance to see hos the adjuster on the drum works:D.

Hmmm. I have always first adjusted at the drum. This way the shoes have the least distance to travel. Then I adjust the cable at the firewall to where I start to engage the shoes about midway of the handle travel. My FJ45 brake will hold on a steep hill. My 71 will hold on a modest hill. The 71 had glazed shoes when I got it. I tried to replace with new, but to make a long story short, they didn't fit right so I am still using my old shoes. I dressed them up a bit when I reassembled but they need to be replaced.