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View Full Version : Stripped threads, round two...


corsair23
05-25-2008, 01:17 AM
Ok, either I'm just having a rash of bad luck or I don't know how to properly put bolts in :rolleyes:

First the caliper bolt hole in my DS knuckle and now my AT drain plug :rant:

I had a feeling it was coming the last time I did a drain and fill so I already had a new plug on hand. Well, I can't get the dang plug out. I spent some time trying the screwdriver trick to pry while turning but that didn't work. It was getting late so I decided to just leave it for a later date but now I have a drip/leak because I couldn't get the old plug to snug back up enough. Not a big one, but about 1/2 dollar size every 1/2 hour or so :( so I can't leave it this way for too long.

I searched and it seems about a 50/50 mix of folks who have run into this found that it is either the threads on the plug itself or it is the threads/nutsert dealyo in the pan. If it is the threads on the plug then no biggie (assuming I can get the old one out). If it is the threads on the pan then :mad:

If it is the pan that is the problem, of all the options for fixing this I am leaning toward just getting a new pan, depending upon price. I figure I'm going to have to drop the pan anyway to fix it so why not just replace it. Thoughts? Anyone else in the club run into this yet?

EDIT: Anyone ever try using one of these? Either the piggyback type or the self tapping oversize ones? --> http://www.cgenterprises.com/drain_plugs_oversize_repair.htm

If so, which size is appropriate for a '97 FZJ80 tranny drain plug?

60wag
05-25-2008, 07:28 AM
The oil drain plug on my 60 was rather large. The dealer was unable to come up with a seal that was the right size for the plug. I think it was an oversized plug to address stripped threads. It worked just fine and made an oil change quick work. You might check the price of a new pan and the price of whatever tap you'll need to mod the old pan and then decide which solution makes more sense.

Uncle Ben
05-25-2008, 07:46 AM
Ok, either I'm just having a rash of bad luck or I don't know how to properly put bolts in :rolleyes:

First the caliper bolt hole in my DS knuckle and now my AT drain plug :rant:

I had a feeling it was coming the last time I did a drain and fill so I already had a new plug on hand. Well, I can't get the dang plug out. I spent some time trying the screwdriver trick to pry while turning but that didn't work. It was getting late so I decided to just leave it for a later date but now I have a drip/leak because I couldn't get the old plug to snug back up enough. Not a big one, but about 1/2 dollar size every 1/2 hour or so :( so I can't leave it this way for too long.

I searched and it seems about a 50/50 mix of folks who have run into this found that it is either the threads on the plug itself or it is the threads/nutsert dealyo in the pan. If it is the threads on the plug then no biggie (assuming I can get the old one out). If it is the threads on the pan then :mad:

If it is the pan that is the problem, of all the options for fixing this I am leaning toward just getting a new pan, depending upon price. I figure I'm going to have to drop the pan anyway to fix it so why not just replace it. Thoughts? Anyone else in the club run into this yet?

EDIT: Anyone ever try using one of these? Either the piggyback type or the self tapping oversize ones? --> http://www.cgenterprises.com/drain_plugs_oversize_repair.htm

If so, which size is appropriate for a '97 FZJ80 tranny drain plug?


The oversize plugs will work for now and will be a semi perminate fix UNTILL you change/drain the oil again. Oversize plugs are self tapping and unless you get lucky and hit the new cut threads right on you will cut new threads everytime you put it back in. This will, however, give you time to locate a new pan. The thing that pops up in your post is "I had a feeling it was coming the last time I did a drain and fill"! Why are you changing your AT fluid so often? 30k-50k is normal interval for AT fluid change.

corsair23
05-25-2008, 12:48 PM
The thing that pops up in your post is "I had a feeling it was coming the last time I did a drain and fill"! Why are you changing your AT fluid so often? 30k-50k is normal interval for AT fluid change.

Just a drain and fill UB...4 qts or so...I did a complete flush last year and then had planned to do a drain and fill every year after CM (or thereabouts) to just keep it fresh. Every year would equate to about 7-8K miles for me so it might be a little "over the top" but IIRC it takes about 15-20 drain and fill cycles to completely refresh the fluid based on the spreadsheet RT put together (MUD dude) so maybe it isn't :confused:.

Sounds like the best approach long term is to get a new pan. Thanks for the quick responses :thumb:

nakman
05-27-2008, 12:27 PM
Jeff, what about welding a nut to the inside of the pan? Even JB weld.. I did that to my 62 oil pan once to stop some drips, and it worked.

I too am on the every 6 month 4 qt drop & swap program, and have noticed that plug is feeling a little soft but hasn't really changed much in the last 3 years or so. I'm careful to not torque it down very hard, (same with oil pan) a technique that seems to be working well, but is still probably limited.

Red_Chili
05-27-2008, 01:13 PM
Seems like it is entirely possible you can drop the pan, pull the drain plug, retap the threads to clean them up, and reassemble... ???

corsair23
05-27-2008, 06:10 PM
Yep on both accounts Tim and Bill...depending on what the problem truly is. It is either that the drain plug is stripped (that bugger is tiny), the threads in the pan itself are stripped, or the welded nut on the inside let go. I'm thinking it is either #1 or #2 as the plug will get a little tighter and then loosen, not just spin in place.

I've decided to just get a new pan and go from there. Cost wise it isn't too bad, and I doubt if the pan has ever been dropped and the filter cleaned. Figure now is the time to do it and I'll probably never have to touch it again. I'm hoping to get the drain plug out to drain the pan to avoid the mess of trying to drop the pan full of fluid :hill:

And Tim, re: not tightening it down too much. I agree. I don't recall the true FSM torque spec but it is under 20ft/lbs IIRC. From now on, I'm only going to torque (by hand) it down just enough to squish the crushable washer (new one EACH drain) and check for a leak. No leak = good. Leak, gently tighten it down just a skosh more :)

nakman
05-27-2008, 10:48 PM
Wow, new pan! that will be some nice bling under there..

so hey if you're scrapping the old one then quit trying to save the bolt, just drill some holes in it, or smash the dipstick tube with a BFH & chisel.. would be kind of fun to try to cause a leak, wouldn't it?

Jacket
05-27-2008, 11:16 PM
Seems like it is entirely possible you can drop the pan, pull the drain plug, retap the threads to clean them up, and reassemble... ???

I had good luck with this method on my trail bike. The tranny fluid has to get changed pretty often on it, and I got the pan so stripped to where the plug would spin freely and had a steady leak. I retapped it one size larger (M12 maybe?), and it's been holding strong ever since (about 2 years).

But since you're going with a new pan, hopefully you can extract the old bolt, and replace everything cleanly.

Rzeppa
05-27-2008, 11:38 PM
I too am on the every 6 month 4 qt drop & swap program

What the heck is that? Must be an 80 thing I don't understand ;-)

corsair23
05-28-2008, 02:32 AM
so hey if you're scrapping the old one then quit trying to save the bolt, just drill some holes in it, or smash the dipstick tube with a BFH & chisel.. would be kind of fun to try to cause a leak, wouldn't it?

:lmao: - Not trying to save the bolt...already had a new one in hand to go in. I'm trying to save a big mess in my garage :hill:. It would also be nice to save the pan itself in case anyone should ever need it (probably me :rolleyes:)

What the heck is that? Must be an 80 thing I don't understand ;-)

Yep...Pull the plug and about 4 qts of ATF will drain out. Put the plug back in, pour in 4 qts of new ATF, and call it good. Total cost is under $20 for the 4qts of ATF and a new crushable gasket and I'm good for another year which is 7-8K miles for me. Beats the 20qts I used last year doing a complete flush of the AT :hill:

Red_Chili
05-28-2008, 08:02 AM
I just ponied up for the BG machine flush and put in Mobil1 ATF on the Taco... ???

Good for 50K more, and the whole system is spanking clean.