View Full Version : FJ60 carb remove/repl...How hard?

07-15-2008, 10:21 AM
...or maybe a better question is how much could I severely screw up?

I have a Jim C. re-built carb in my garage and think I might try my hand at installing it. My questions are:

Do I need any gaskets or seals to install this sucker? Or just a remove/replace?
Do I need to check/adjust timing or valves or anything when replacing the carb?
How complicated or tricky is the whole linkage setup to un-hook and re-hookup?

thanks...this seems pretty straight forward, but don't want to get in to something I can't handle.



07-15-2008, 10:38 AM
There is a carb base gasket that goes onto the bake-o-lite insulator. I'd probably have one on hand to replace. Sometimes they come off in one piece sometimes they are stuck to the insulator. You don't need to adjust the valves or anything but if it hasn't been done in a long time it will help the tune. I'm sure jim set up the carb for this alt so don't mess with it. The linkages aren't all that bad. There are a couple vacuum lines. Mark with some tape and color sharpie and you should be able to hook them back up easily. There is a gasket between the carb and the air cleaner, alot of times it's missing. If it's there you should be fine.

07-15-2008, 10:48 AM
Everything Wes said. :thumb:

Also, you'll need a super stubby wrench to remove the bolts holding the carb on unless you remove the air rail. I believe they are 12mm.

Make sure to mark the vacuum tubes with tape or something and it never hurts to have the emissions FSM on hand to double check those connections.

07-15-2008, 11:35 AM
Take some pictures with your digital camera. Bring the laptop into the garage, then when you reassemble, look at the pictures. everything should look the same, just cleaner. ;)

07-15-2008, 01:03 PM
thanks guys...I might have a day pass this saturday to try to deal with it. :thumb:

thanks again!

07-15-2008, 02:57 PM
It is impossible to do when the engine is hot. You have to snake your hand past the air rails on the valve cover side to get to the nuts. Take the air cleaner assembly completely out. Only 2 bolts hold it to the valve cover. 4 nuts is all that holds the carb to the manifold. Remove the linkage in the back by taking off one of the snap in rods. Disconnect all the vacuum lines and unplug the fuel cutoff solenoid. The carb should come right out. Leave the insulator plate in place unless you have to remove it. All the metal vacuum rods, a few vacuum diaphragms, and the air rails have to be removed to take the insulator plate off.

07-15-2008, 03:01 PM
..."and the hits, they just keep comin'"

thanks Treeroot!

07-19-2008, 06:05 PM
took my time today, with some minor "thomas the tank engine" sidetracks :D but she's all done, and runs GREAT. As of now, still no fire under the hood! I'm glad I took a stab at this...it was fun, and I didn't screw it up!

thanks again for all your advice... :cheers::thumb:

07-20-2008, 10:29 AM
Congratulations, Shawn! It always feels good when you've done a job on your rig and it's better when you're done than when you started!

07-20-2008, 11:23 AM

Thanks! It sure does!!!

07-21-2008, 09:19 AM
Good on you Shawn, see you have not messed up the engine and you had some fun too boot. catch you when I get back.