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View Full Version : 80 series simple Brake Mod


Romer
07-24-2008, 09:50 PM
I am probably behind the power curve here, but I just did the 5 minute modification to adjust the LSPV valve that adjusts the brake pressure between the front and rear brakes. When you lift the truck you throw it off kilter and basically are only using the front brakes. I lowered mine 1/4 of an inch and can now feel better braking performance. I had gone 50K miles and not even wore the rear pads.

It's so simple. Mark the LSPV and the frame. Place a mark about 1/4" below the mark, loosen the two bolts and lower it to the mark and tighten the bolts. That's it. You 4" lift guys may need to go a little bit more.

writeup and picture courtesy of this thread (http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/165499-lspv-adjustment-pictures.html) . This picture is with the rear drivers tire off. I marked the other side and did it with the tire on.

http://home.comcast.net/~ed.hughes/images/LandCruiser/LSPV_Before.jpg

Hulk
07-24-2008, 11:15 PM
Your brakes perform better now? Hmmm. I need to look into this.

Romer
07-24-2008, 11:16 PM
There is a thread on mud where you calculate how much you need exactly. I did the .25" to see if I could tell the difference and thats for a med lift which I am higher.

Romer
07-24-2008, 11:23 PM
here is how you calculate


For a 4" lift

64/16

1/16 of 64/16=.25" for your 4" lift

I was a bit under .25" and mine calculates to .19" so I figure I am good

Uncle Ben
07-25-2008, 01:29 AM
I assumed everyone marked their LSPV before they lifted their trucks then adjusted after the lift was installed. Mine was a PITA as while all the other bolts came off easy the LSPV bolts were rusted solid. Took me a bit of patience to get them loose and get the unit adjusted.

corsair23
07-25-2008, 01:30 AM
You are behind the curve Romer :D

But, since Slee installed my lift at the same time they cut my rear cross member and installed the hitch dealyo in my bumper I guess I should verify they did this. I know I mentioned it but I never did look....

Hulk
07-25-2008, 01:57 AM
I assumed everyone marked their LSPV before they lifted their trucks then adjusted after the lift was installed.

Ah, well, you know what they say about assumptions. ;)

I'm more of a hack mechanic. The only way I find out about anything is through Romer, Corsair and Hants.

DaveInDenver
07-25-2008, 06:48 AM
I did this less analytically. For mini trucks, there is a LSPV bracket that outfitters sell or give you with lift kits. Mine came from NWOR, but Roger Brown, Downey and maybe others have them. Or you can make one yourself with a piece of stock and a drill. It raises the mount on the axle to match the amount of lift. I had to adjust mine slightly more, even with the WilderNest my back brakes weren't doing much work until I really piled in the cargo. I messed with it one time camping by driving down a nice dirt road and slamming on the brakes, then adjusting the LSPV just above the point where the back brakes would lock in a panic stop. It's pretty easy to tell if you have the adjustment wrong. If you see the headlights of the people behind you coming down Georgetown hill after a day at Loveland, you have too much rear bias. :-)

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/Images/rear_closeup.jpg

Romer
07-25-2008, 08:07 AM
I assumed everyone marked their LSPV before they lifted their trucks then adjusted after the lift was installed. Mine was a PITA as while all the other bolts came off easy the LSPV bolts were rusted solid. Took me a bit of patience to get them loose and get the unit adjusted.


When I originally lifted my truck 4 years ago I didn't even know what it was.

Bikeman
07-25-2008, 09:05 AM
I did this less analytically. For mini trucks, there is a LSPV bracket that outfitters sell or give you with lift kits. Mine came from NWOR, but Roger Brown, Downey and maybe others have them. Or you can make one yourself with a piece of stock and a drill. It raises the mount on the axle to match the amount of lift. I had to adjust mine slightly more, even with the WilderNest my back brakes weren't doing much work until I really piled in the cargo. I messed with it one time camping by driving down a nice dirt road and slamming on the brakes, then adjusting the LSPV just above the point where the back brakes would lock in a panic stop. It's pretty easy to tell if you have the adjustment wrong. If you see the headlights of the people behind you coming down Georgetown hill after a day at Loveland, you have too much rear bias. :-)

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/Images/rear_closeup.jpg

If one raises the arm at the diff on an 80, it will interefere with the UCA.

DaveInDenver
07-25-2008, 09:22 AM
If one raises the arm at the diff on an 80, it will interefere with the UCA.
Yeah, wasn't necessarily suggesting this as an alternative on the 80. If it clutters up the thread, certainly won't bug me if it's removed.

Tch2fly
07-25-2008, 09:33 AM
Ah, well, you know what they say about assumptions. ;)

I'm more of a hack mechanic. The only way I find out about anything is through Romer, Corsair and Hants.

hmmmmm "somebody" :rolleyes: mentioned doing this at the "install party" at your house ;)

60wag
07-25-2008, 09:58 AM
I had seen the thread on MUD regarding the 80 adjustment and had considered doing it. Last winter I was playing with the truck on some slippery surfaces and decided that the braking was good - the antilock system seemed to modulate all 4 wheels ok and stopped in a staright line so I never moved the LSPV lever. With a taller lift though, who knows.

Hulk
07-25-2008, 10:16 AM
hmmmmm "somebody" :rolleyes: mentioned doing this at the "install party" at your house ;)

Sure. Let's do it.

I need to get back there and soak the bolts with some penetrating oil.

Bikeman
07-25-2008, 10:38 AM
My LSPV will not move, so I cut the rod down, and made a bracket with a heim to make it adjustable. A good mod for those with a frozen LSPV. Pic to follow.

nakman
07-25-2008, 10:59 AM
This is one adjustment I didn't do myself. About 4 years ago I had some booster issues, actually needed a new one. So I just drove to Sleeoffroad and said "make it stop." :robbie: did all the work, I ended up getting a new booster, new DBA rotors, pads, lspv adjustment, who knows what else but I helped keep the lights on down there for a good month or so. :) Last time I rotated my tires I checked all the pads and they're wearing pretty even, the back ones are actually down a little further than the front ones, but all seems good.




But I can't get my tires to lock up on dirt, unless I literally stand on the pedal. And there's no way they'd ever lock up on pavement. Thinking this isn't good enough, and after Martin & I bled everything just before Moab with no change, I took it to CTS to have it "power bled" :rolleyes: and saw very little change. What's interesting is I can still control the truck while on obstacles, big drops such as wipeout hill, Million Dollar drop, or see the Rubithon video of me dropping into Big Sluice- but it's about all I got to give it that much pedal pressure. I'm told you just can't stop 6500 pounds on a dime.. one of the reasons I'm starting to like the mini trucks a little more. It feels like I have cantilever brakes, while most you guys have V-brakes and guys like Red Chili are running disks.

Hulk
07-25-2008, 11:26 AM
Tim, you and I should have swapped trucks on the drive back from Cali. I'm not claiming that my brakes are awesome, but I never worry about stuff like the Big Sluice, Wipeout Hill, etc. It bugged me that they made so much noise after the water crossings on the Rubicon Trail, but they still held the truck back just fine, even with all the two-foot driving. It would be interesting to see if there is a difference or if it's just a matter of perception.

I will say that I burn through brake pads like nobody's business. It's probably partly my driving style -- I tried hypermiling and it didn't stick.

Inukshuk
07-25-2008, 03:06 PM
With the ABS off we should be able to lock the brakes on a dry pavement panic stop, no? Mine don't. My rear pads wear at 1/2 the rate of front so I'll come to the adjustment party.

Corbet
07-25-2008, 04:01 PM
Granted my 80 is still rolling on 31's but compared to the brakes in my 60 the 80 feels like it will stop on a dime.

I think its mostly perception. Of course a lighter truck will stop faster, but I've always thought of the 80's brakes as great.

wesintl
07-25-2008, 04:21 PM
also this isn't just for 80's.

My 70 has a LSPV and I did an adjustment for for it similar to bikeman.

60's have it as well. I think the late model 40's do to although I can't remember.

ttubb
07-25-2008, 04:52 PM
I did exactly what you did (lower 1/4 inch) after installation of my 4 inch OME lift.

Yesterday I did some testing on a dirt road (turn off the 7 pin mod switch to disable Antilock Brake System). Turns out I was locking the rears first. Made a couple of slight corrections to get best braking and confirming fronts were locking first. Feels much better. I did not have the twin pressure systems to check the system, so this worked well. Shade tree procedures. Terry

nakman
07-25-2008, 05:00 PM
FWIW, I could lock up the 40 just about anywhere... without even trying. Got downright scary a couple times actually :eek:

Rock Dog
07-25-2008, 09:51 PM
someone was talking about using 100 pads instead of 80 pads to get a little more wear..... Can't remember who it was but Jerry at burt toyota thought Wes had mentioned it.... do they help in stopping power, or was it just a deal where they last longer ?

Romer
07-25-2008, 11:08 PM
100 pads for fronts only. Best time is when you change your rotors at the same time

corsair23
07-27-2008, 01:56 AM
someone was talking about using 100 pads instead of 80 pads to get a little more wear..... Can't remember who it was but Jerry at burt toyota thought Wes had mentioned it.... do they help in stopping power, or was it just a deal where they last longer ?

Supposedly both. They are bigger (have to leave the anti-squeal shims out just to get them to squeeze in there) thus they have a different wear pattern on the rotors thus the suggestion that you put on new rotors at the same time.

The :Princess:'s 80 has new rotors and 80 series pads. The LX has new rotors and 100 series pads. I can't tell a difference between the two stopping power wise which IMO means the 100 series pads must be doing there thing since the LX is bigger and now weighs a heck of a lot more than the 80 :D. However, if the LX hadn't needed new front rotors I would have just stuck with the 80 series pads until it did.