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View Full Version : Engine diagnosis help in Denver? (FJ40)


Azrael
07-28-2008, 02:02 PM
Hey folks! Isotel recommended I come over here from IH8MUD and see if you could help me out. I'm having engine troubles that sound like they may be a fuel delivery issue ('72 FJ40 with a 2F engine and unknown Weber carb). I've changed the filter and cleaned the tank out, though the tank seemed pretty clean to start. Before I spend the money to replace the pump, I was wondering if anyone who knows more than I do (not hard) could come by and verify that it is in fact the problem. I can't offer much in return, other than a six pack of your favorite beer, and a pat on the back, but it would be highly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeff
jmchebul@jmchebul.com (best way to get a hold of me)

trucruiser
07-29-2008, 12:07 PM
Have you checked to see if you are getting fuel to the carb?
Pull the fuel line hooked to the carb crank the engine and see if fuel spits out.

Romer
07-29-2008, 12:14 PM
Have you tried adjusting the carb, verifying vacuum and doing the timing?

Azrael
07-29-2008, 12:47 PM
Have you checked to see if you are getting fuel to the carb?
Pull the fuel line hooked to the carb crank the engine and see if fuel spits out.

Pretty sure it's not the pump now. I'm definitely getting fuel, but I was thinking it wasn't enough. Hooked up an inline pressure gauge this morning, and am getting a constant 2.5-3 psi. From what I've read, that should be about right.

Have you tried adjusting the carb, verifying vacuum and doing the timing?

I'm still rather new to working on engines. This is all over my head. How do I go about any of these?

Romer
07-29-2008, 12:51 PM
I'm still rather new to working on engines. This is all over my head. How do I go about any of these?

http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/26635-carb-works-great.html

Azrael
07-29-2008, 01:09 PM
Alright, so I don't think there's a vacuum link. Unfortunately, I don't have the multimeter/tach they mention to adjust the carb. I'm also a little fuzzy on what the rest of that means exactly. I work better with pictures and crayon drawings than I do with technical jargon. So, as I mentioned before, if anyone has the tools/knowledge, and is willing to stop by and help sometime, I'll pay in beer!

Romer
07-29-2008, 01:14 PM
You can buy a multimeter and tach at any parts store. I did this on a 77 FJ40 with a 2F, so it might be different

Azrael
07-29-2008, 01:20 PM
I think you missed the point that I'm a bit of a cheap ass. If I can find someone willing to work for a six pack of beer, it's cheaper than buying the tools. ;)

nakman
07-29-2008, 01:21 PM
Describe more your "engine troubles." Does it not start at all? Or not idle? Or not run well? What kind of troubles are we talking about, that will help steer you towards fuel delivery, or carb, or plugs/coil/wires/dist, etc.

Azrael
07-29-2008, 01:28 PM
Starts OK, and idles pretty much fine, though it'll be better when the carb is adjusted, I'm sure. It's when I'm accelerating that the engine starts to cut out and threatens to stall. If I can make it to a reasonable cruising speed, it smooths out again, and runs fine, though I'll still get an occasional sputter. That's what led me to think it was fuel delivery. Felt like I just wasn't getting enough gas when I was hitting the throttle.

Rezarf
07-29-2008, 01:41 PM
Where are you located specifically?

Romer
07-29-2008, 01:43 PM
I had a similar problem and it was a clogged PCV.

Easy and simple to replace yourself

Still could be adjustment. Jeff Zepp is a great one with the 1F engines. Hopefully he will chime in here

Azrael
07-29-2008, 01:44 PM
I've actually got the 2F swapped in, or so the previous owner told me. I'll have to try the PCV.

Where are you located specifically?

SW Denver, near Federal and Evans.

Azrael
07-29-2008, 02:16 PM
OK, now I'm confused. It's definitely a 2F according to the block tag. When I checked SOR's diagrams, it looked like the PCV should come out the block near the firewall, above the starter. It looks like mine is up front under the #1 plug. Am I looking at the right thing here?


http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k254/Azrael_Denver/FJ40/P7290749.jpg

Azrael
07-29-2008, 05:17 PM
New PCV and tubing installed.

The engine seems to run a little smoother, but the problem still remains. It seems like it's not happening anymore when the truck is standing still, but still there when it's under load (actually moving the truck).

Romer
07-29-2008, 05:37 PM
Looks like a weber carb. I remember reading on mud a lot of issues with those where people ditched them and went back to a stock carb.

MDH33
07-29-2008, 05:45 PM
Looking at the under-hood pic, seems like a lot of non-stock stuff happening. It's going to be hard to diagnose. I would go through the motions that Romer suggested, including the basics: Carb rebuild (or stock replacement), new plugs and wires, tune up...

It's an FJ40 (aka 30+ year old rig that will need lots of time, work and $ to own). Half the fun of owning an old rig is working on it. You're going to need to learn how to wrench on it yourself sooner or later, or else pay a load of money to take it into a specialist mechanic every time something comes up. Just being honest here.

Jump in and start asking questions as you go. Ih8MUD is a great resource too.

:thumb: :birf:

MDH33
07-29-2008, 05:50 PM
What kind of distributor is that? I would guess it should be vacuum advance and yet I don't see any vacuum tubes from the carb. There's some odd looking electrical wiring under there too. If the problem is while under load, might be more likely that it's a timing or firing issue.

Azrael
07-29-2008, 05:57 PM
The carb was rebuilt just before I bought it last month, and it looks like the plugs are new as well as distributor cap and wires, though I haven't pulled them off yet to check them. It was running fine when I bought it, this problem just started last week. I'm not sure what the actual distributor is, but I'll get a bett er pic of it in a bit.

Azrael
07-29-2008, 06:36 PM
Here's a better pic of the dist. if anyone can ID it off of that.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k254/Azrael_Denver/FJ40/P7290751.jpg


Also, what else in there are you seeing in there that seems aftermarket? Most of it seems pretty standard from what I've seen on others. As far as the wiring you mention, the light blue line at the top goes to the electric choke. The red wire running off the battery is a battery tender.

MDH33
07-29-2008, 07:35 PM
Is there a vacuum line running off the right side of the distributor? (from the diaphragm housing). If so, where is it going?

Azrael
07-29-2008, 07:42 PM
Yes, but it's not hooked up to anything. Where should that be going? Also, there was a line T'd off of the PCV hose near the carb that was capped off.

wesintl
07-29-2008, 09:50 PM
That's a non usa vac advance dist

MDH33
07-30-2008, 08:35 AM
Not sure if the non-usa distributor has mechanical advance in addition to the vac. I'm betting that you are not getting enough advance with that line on your distributor disconnected. It should be connected to ported vacuum on the carb body.

Azrael
07-30-2008, 08:51 AM
It doesn't look like the Weber has any vacuum ports, though. I'm not sure if there's a viable workaround for that or not.

I'm also still not sure how this problem is popping up now after working fine for so long. Seems like not having a vacuum on there should have been a problem from the get go.

Romer
07-30-2008, 09:08 AM
Have you tried spraying carb cleaner into the carb throat to see if that has any effect?

Most people I know who had webers on a 40 pitched them and went back to stock after they ran for a while they developed problems

MDH33
07-30-2008, 09:57 AM
It doesn't look like the Weber has any vacuum ports, though. I'm not sure if there's a viable workaround for that or not.


Look around the carb body below the level of the butterfly. I think the webers do have a ported vacuum connection somewhere.

subzali
07-30-2008, 01:48 PM
IIRC, the Weber 32/36 is a unit that works ok (and just ok) on a 2F, though as Romer said most people eventually get to the point where they put a stock Aisan back on.

As far as stumbling is concerned, the accelerator pump (I'm assuming Webers have these like any other carb I've seen) may have gone bad for some reason. If you take off the air cleaner and look down the throat of the carb and pull on the throttle linkage, a spray of fuel should go into the carb. Not a dribble, but a stream. If that is not working for some reason, then you may have stumbling issues when you hit the gas. And like Martin said, there should be vacuum advance on the distributor (seeing as FJ40s did not come with electronically controlled timing), and a vacuum hose should be running from the distributor to a vacuum port on the carb. I can probably come over tonight for a little bit and take a look-see, though I don't really know all that much there are a few basic things I'm aware of.

Azrael
07-30-2008, 02:48 PM
As far as stumbling is concerned, the accelerator pump (I'm assuming Webers have these like any other carb I've seen) may have gone bad for some reason. If you take off the air cleaner and look down the throat of the carb and pull on the throttle linkage, a spray of fuel should go into the carb. Not a dribble, but a mist.

You may have just hit it there. It's definitely not a mist that's coming out. I'll check that out tonight, as well as run some carb cleaner and see what happens. If it is the accelerator pump, how would I go about fixing that?

Also, I've searched that carb from every angle, and just don't see any vacuum port, let alone a free one for the dist.

subzali
07-30-2008, 03:57 PM
rebuild kit. Usually it's a plunger inside a cylinder. The cylinder fills up with fuel when running normally, then when you hit the gas the plunger pressurizes the fuel slightly to force it into the intake just as the butterflies are opening up.

The plunger can become deteriorated, the walls of the cylinder may be dirty/have stuff that has destroyed the plunger, or the paths for the fuel to flow may be blocked. Checking the fuel filter (easy to replace)/fuel lines for cleanliness, as well as the bowl on the carb should help, but if you end up doing a rebuild make sure to clean out the fuel passages with a solvent and then blowing clean (from both sides if possible) with compressed air.

Azrael
08-01-2008, 07:56 PM
Pulled the plugs last night, and they were carbon fouled. It wasn't very bad, IMO, but I replaced them anyway. Took it out for a test and the hesitation disappeared. I was fooled once after I replaced the PCV, so I'll give it a couple more test runs to be certain it's OK. If it's good to go, I guess I just have to prevent it from running rich.

I've been playing around with the mixture screws, following Weber's tuning instructions, and I can't get it to lean out. I'm guessing I'm going to need to rejet before getting it tuned correctly. Also, I think the valve seals are starting to crack, which could be adding to those deposits.

Hopefully this gets me running somewhat reliably.

Romer
08-01-2008, 09:50 PM
Glad you got it running

Azrael
08-01-2008, 10:32 PM
Now the trick is keeping it running.

Thanks for the help for everyone. I'm sure I'll need more before long.

MDH33
08-01-2008, 11:36 PM
Pulled the plugs last night, and they were carbon fouled.

No advance on the timing maybe? :rolleyes:

subzali
08-03-2008, 09:41 PM
Cool Jeff, let us know how it goes! Hopefully we'll see you Wednesday night!

Azrael
08-05-2008, 08:53 PM
Thanks again for stopping by. I'll probably be out of the running for this meeting, but I'll definitely try to make it to one before long.

Azrael
08-24-2008, 05:56 PM
Round 2:

After getting it running with those plugs, it worked great for a couple weeks, but symptoms started coming back. I figured this was going to happen between running too rich and figuring out the timing. I started working on timing, but idle has been very rough,and the BB bounces around to a point that makes it hard to read. I believe part of that is that I may not be getting spark to #6.

After that, I ordered new jets according to sizes TreeRoot wrote up over on IH8MUD. Around the time I ordered them, a new problem arouse. After starting up and idling for awhile, the engine slowly fades and dies (average of 30 seconds after start). Since then, it got to the point where it just wouldn't start at all. The starter seems to be running strong, but it isn't turning over.

In the meantime, I went ahead and changed out those jets when they got in. The fuel system still seems to be working fine, and getting fuel through the carb, so I'm thinking ignition system. It's got a new distributor cap/rotor, but I don't have a clue how to test/adjust points. Can't seem to find a good write-up on that. I also threw on a new coil, because it was cheap, and I figured throwing money at it would make me feel better...

I pulled the new plugs, and they were wet fouled this time around. Cleaned those up, and reinstalled them. Need to head over to Harbor Freight and pick up a spark checker and remote starter so I can test those.

Any other thoughts/suggestions on things this time around? Can any one guide me on the points help?

Edit: Also, the battery doesn't last long when cranking it before I have to put it on the charger for a couple hours. The alternator tested good before all this started, but I'm sure when it stays on for only 30 seconds, it's not enough to put much back on the battery. Could it be that the battery, being in bad condition, is draining faster than the alt can keep up with, and now just can't push out enough juice at a time to run everything? I was going to save up for a red top, but if needed, I guess I can get something cheap until then.

Mendocino
08-24-2008, 06:26 PM
Cool Jeff, let us know how it goes! Hopefully we'll see you Wednesday night!

Wow! Is this the fourth Jeff? That's pretty unusual in my experience.:)

MDH33
08-24-2008, 06:32 PM
Round 2:


Edit: Also, the battery doesn't last long when cranking it before I have to put it on the charger for a couple hours. The alternator tested good before all this started, but I'm sure when it stays on for only 30 seconds, it's not enough to put much back on the battery. Could it be that the battery, being in bad condition, is draining faster than the alt can keep up with, and now just can't push out enough juice at a time to run everything? I was going to save up for a red top, but if needed, I guess I can get something cheap until then.

A weak battery will certainly not help with diagnosing the problem. I'm still thinking it's your timing/advance. Did you get the Vacuum advance connected?

I was looking at another 40 recently and it made me think of this thread. They had the vacuum advance connected to the valve on the intake manifold (in front of the carb riser) rather than connecting it to a ported vacuum connector on the carb. Not sure if this would be detrimental, but it seemed to be working in their application.

Do you still have a toyota intake manifold? and if so, can you connect your vacuum advance to that instead of nothing?

(hopefully the toyota fj40 carb gurus will chime in and school us on vacuum advance ;) )

Azrael
08-24-2008, 06:33 PM
Yeah, I've noticed a surplus around here. You and the rest are going to have to get legal name changes now that I rolled in to town.

My company is even worse. With ~20 employees, for awhile we had two Jeff's, Two Chris's, two John's, and three Kelly's. Very limited name pool...

Azrael
08-24-2008, 06:43 PM
A weak battery will certainly not help with diagnosing the problem. I'm still thinking it's your timing/advance. Did you get the Vacuum advance connected?

I was looking at another 40 recently and it made me think of this thread. They had the vacuum advance connected to the valve on the intake manifold (in front of the carb riser) rather than connecting it to a ported vacuum connector on the carb. Not sure if this would be detrimental, but it seemed to be working in their application.

Do you still have a toyota intake manifold? and if so, can you connect your vacuum advance to that instead of nothing?

(hopefully the toyota fj40 carb gurus will chime in and school us on vacuum advance ;) )
I did finally find the vacuum connection on the carb just shortly before Matt came over. It was plugged off with a very short piece of tube with a screw in the end. In dim light, it looked just like another adjustment screw...

From the reading I've done, it sounded like I should have it disconnected and plugged when I adjust the timing, and reconnected when I actually run the car, so this is what I've been doing. Also, from what I've read, timing with the Weber should be around 12 degree advanced. The timing light I borrowed is just the basic variety, but it sounded like 12 degrees should be when the BB is just out of view out of the bottom of the window. Whenever I got it to come into view, the engine would start to die.

subzali
08-24-2008, 08:41 PM
Idle circuit solenoid?

Azrael
08-24-2008, 09:55 PM
As far as I can surmise, my carb doesn't have the solenoid, though I can fit an optional add on for it.

Are you thinking that it had failed in the open, leaking gas and flooding the carb? If so, should I consider adding one?

Or are you thinking it failed, preventing gas to the carb? I've tried pouring gasdown the carb, but it didn't help.

subzali
08-25-2008, 08:29 AM
No, sorry, I forgot that you have a Weber. If it fails on an OEM carb, the idle circuit won't work properly and you either have to keep it revved or hold the choke on for the truck to run. Advancing the timing also increases the rpm a bit (if you don't adjust the idle screw on the carb back down), so that's why I thought maybe it had something to do with that. I don't know though.

Azrael
08-25-2008, 02:54 PM
Alright, I think I'm making progress. It doesn't look like I'm getting any spark across to board. Electrical look to be good up to that new coil. It looks like the point burnt out from arcing. I'm guessing I need to replace the point set and compressor. Can anyone confirm that that's what I'm looking at in this pic?

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k254/Azrael_Denver/FJ40/P8250769.jpg

Rzeppa
08-25-2008, 06:43 PM
Positive (moving arm) contact of the points looks likes toast, and that will stop you cold and prevent spark. When you replace the points, definitely make sure you have proper gap, around .018", or the thickness of a matchbook cover at the apex of the hex, max points opening. Then when you are done reset the timing.

Condensors rarely fail, but it is standard practice to replace them (when present) whenever the points are replaced.

After you replace the points, you should get spark, and should start and run. If not, come back here and we'll have more advice.

Azrael
08-29-2008, 09:56 PM
Got a new battery and point set in today. Gapped the points as close as I could by eye, and it started right up and ran smooth. The dwell angle was about 39.5 which should be well within optimum range. After that, I was able to set the timing to 12 which is what I've heard suggested for the Weber. After that, I gave it a couple minutes to fully warm up before moving on to the carb. During that time, I gave it some gas to see if the hesitation was still there. At first it was, but then I realized the vacuum advance wasn't hooked up. Plugged that in, and the throttle was smooth and responsive. As soon as I let it off, it stalled, and blew smoke/vapor out of the carb. Now, I can't get it to start up again. :confused:

Rzeppa
08-29-2008, 11:18 PM
That it started and ran eliminates a number of things. If I were you, I would pop the cap off and double check the points to make sure they are still opening - just in case the screws weren't tightened down after initial install. Don't ask me what made me think of this:rolleyes:

Not that I ever did that :o

Azrael
08-30-2008, 07:18 AM
I checked that first thing, and it was the case, but after readjusting it still wouldn't start. Also, the points bar seemed to already show signs of burning. Is that normal, or is something in there causing that to fail? I wasn't able to find a suitable condenser replacement, either. The ones I found didn't have a long enough mounting bracket to fit under the dist cap clamp.


Any ideas on what the smoke or vapor that shot out the carb would be from?

Rzeppa
08-30-2008, 03:26 PM
I checked that first thing, and it was the case, but after readjusting it still wouldn't start. Also, the points bar seemed to already show signs of burning. Is that normal, or is something in there causing that to fail? I wasn't able to find a suitable condenser replacement, either. The ones I found didn't have a long enough mounting bracket to fit under the dist cap clamp.


Any ideas on what the smoke or vapor that shot out the carb would be from?

Good, one thing eliminated. Do you have voltage to the points? The burning may indicate (well it does indicate) that too much power was being dissipated. That may signal a shorted primary in the coil, or other short downstream from the points. Almost any cheap-a$$ed coil will work on older rigs that have points.

The condenser is a capacitor that is in parallel with the points. It reduces pitting and prolongs the life of the points, but the engine should run fine with no condenser at all. And with no condenser, the points should still last at least 10k miles. You could try disconnecting the condenser; it won't hurt anything, and would eliminate it as a cause of problems.

You should also re-check whether you have spark or not, and verify timing. F series engines are VERY tolerant of bad timing and will run if it is way off, but not optimally.

Smoke and vapor out of the carb suggest a REALLY bad timing problem - way too advanced or retarded - or points gap really screwed up. BTDT.

I assume this was probably accompanied by a backfire when it quit?

Azrael
08-30-2008, 03:47 PM
Here's where I stand as of now:

After playing with it all day, I got it to run again, but not well enough to drive. The points do keep slipping a little bit, which stems from the fact that the ones I bought didn't fit exactly, and I had to dremel out one of the holes to make it fit. I think this keeps throwing my timing out of whack. Also, I reseated the dist. since it seemed like it was a gear off. This may have to be repositioned once I get the points gapped properly again. It did have the added benefit of improving the ground path to the block, though. After I did this, my spark checker was lighting up much brighter than before compared to a faint glow in the light. Also, before I did this, I switched back to the old jets to make sure I had enough gas to light.

So, as of now, I think I'm stuck trying to locate the correct points. From someone's suggestion in this thread, I believe it's the non-USA vacuum advance Dist. Anyone know where to get those? In town would be better. I went over to Stevenson, and they couldn't find it around anywhere. I'm going to head back over to the Checkers that I found the Niehoff points and see if they have other brands, in case I just got the wrong one.

Rzeppa
08-30-2008, 04:11 PM
Here's where I stand as of now:

After playing with it all day, I got it to run again, but not well enough to drive. The points do keep slipping a little bit, which stems from the fact that the ones I bought didn't fit exactly, and I had to dremel out one of the holes to make it fit. I think this keeps throwing my timing out of whack. Also, I reseated the dist. since it seemed like it was a gear off. This may have to be repositioned once I get the points gapped properly again. It did have the added benefit of improving the ground path to the block, though. After I did this, my spark checker was lighting up much brighter than before compared to a faint glow in the light. Also, before I did this, I switched back to the old jets to make sure I had enough gas to light.

So, as of now, I think I'm stuck trying to locate the correct points. From someone's suggestion in this thread, I believe it's the non-USA vacuum advance Dist. Anyone know where to get those? In town would be better. I went over to Stevenson, and they couldn't find it around anywhere. I'm going to head back over to the Checkers that I found the Niehoff points and see if they have other brands, in case I just got the wrong one.

Excellent info!

For distributor positioning, refer to this post:

http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showpost.php?p=14343&postcount=82

This is the "non-USA" distributor. I have a couple sets of new, OEM spare points, you are welcome to a free set if you don't mind driving to Kittredge.

Please elaborate on "dremel out the holes"? If you buggered up the threads you might have a screwed up backing plate for installing the correct points. I have a couple of spare distributors http://rzeppa.org/tech/distthm.gif lying around in case you might need parts.

Azrael
08-30-2008, 04:49 PM
Well, mine looks like yours, but with a couple differences. The vacuum diaphragm is a bit different, and the condenser is on the outside. There's a screw for the condenser inside, but none of them seem to fit.

Here's the top view for comparison. You can see where I had to dremel the points set itself, because the mounting holes were a bit wider apart compared to the backing plate.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k254/Azrael_Denver/FJ40/P8300772.jpg

I didn't really expect that to last, but hoped it'd work temporarily. The points in your picture do look like the same set, though. If you don't mind giving up a set, I'd love to take one. It'd be very appreciated. By any chance are you coming to the meeting this week? If not, I'm sure I could swing by sometime. I'll be going on vacation next weekend, and driving all around the state, so I'm sure I could manage then.

Also, do you know the part number for reference?

Rzeppa
08-30-2008, 05:40 PM
Well, mine looks like yours, but with a couple differences. The vacuum diaphragm is a bit different, and the condenser is on the outside. There's a screw for the condenser inside, but none of them seem to fit.

Here's the top view for comparison. You can see where I had to dremel the points set itself, because the mounting holes were a bit wider apart compared to the backing plate.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k254/Azrael_Denver/FJ40/P8300772.jpg

I didn't really expect that to last, but hoped it'd work temporarily. The points in your picture do look like the same set, though. If you don't mind giving up a set, I'd love to take one. It'd be very appreciated. By any chance are you coming to the meeting this week? If not, I'm sure I could swing by sometime. I'll be going on vacation next weekend, and driving all around the state, so I'm sure I could manage then.

Also, do you know the part number for reference?

Oh good, you didn't bugger up the backing plate, just the points themselves. Easily remedied with the proper points. Next time I'm in the garage I'll check on the P/N of the points and distributor.

I do plan to be at the meeting. Last month's was the first one I had missed since 2005.

Azrael
08-30-2008, 06:14 PM
I do plan to be at the meeting.


Awesome. That sounds like the best plan. That'll give me two good reasons not to miss it now. It'd be nice to drive out in the 40, but I guess it can wait.

Azrael
09-08-2008, 04:51 PM
She breathes live again. Got some good points ob there and got it up and running. Hooked the vacuum line up, and no hesitation at throttle at all. I had to move the distributor one tooth clockwise because as it was, the vacuum advance was hitting the oil filter before I could get the timing right. There was no way I could hook the tube on to it if I could get it running there. Will that cause any problems down the line?


Now I just got to get those new jets on it, and hopefully I'll be able to pass emissions tomorrow.

MDH33
09-08-2008, 04:59 PM
Right on. Sounds like your patience and persistence with troubleshooting this are paying off. :thumb:

Azrael
09-08-2008, 05:05 PM
It was just in time, too. My car threw a CEL and started misfiring yesterday. :banghead:

subzali
09-08-2008, 05:47 PM
Do you have a hardtop for your truck? I've only ever seen it with a bikini...

Good work on the troubleshooting! It's usually something pretty simple!

Azrael
09-08-2008, 05:54 PM
Do you have a hardtop for your truck? I've only ever seen it with a bikini...

No. That's the next endeavor, or at least a soft top. Any ideas where I can find one dirt cheap?

MDH33
09-08-2008, 07:03 PM
No. That's the next endeavor, or at least a soft top. Any ideas where I can find one dirt cheap?

I have an old Bestop soft top you can have. The rear window has split along a seam, but some duct tape would fix it temporarily. It's missing a couple of small pieces for the bows but I'll see what I can do. Do you have doors?

Azrael
09-08-2008, 07:10 PM
That'd be awesome. I do have the original doors that I finally put on there.

MDH33
09-08-2008, 07:19 PM
No problem. I'll try to get the missing parts located and let you know.

Here's a pic of my 40 with that top from a couple of years ago. It works fine with hard doors too:

http://mdhuber.smugmug.com/photos/94393701_ArxLq-L.jpg

Azrael
09-09-2008, 05:32 PM
Got her to pass emissions with flying colors (on the second try) this morning. The first time through, they couldn't test it, because the idle was too high. Looked under the hood, and the throttle return spring just didn't have enough tension, so I cut a couple mangled coils off one end reattached, and went back through. I was suprised with the numbers I got, too. Much lower than I expected. I don't know them off the top of my head, but CO levels were around .5%.

Also, while I was in the waiting area, I ran into an RS member. I didn't catch your name, but I'm sure I'll see you around.

Got a good test by driving it up to Silverthorne this afternoon. Was able to keep up with traffic nicely. I think it actually has a bit better power than my old Tacoma did with the 4 cylinder in it. I did, however, forget just how much a n/a engine lags on that drive.

subzali
09-10-2008, 08:59 AM
Sweet! :thumb: