View Full Version : Clutch Replacement
08-20-2008, 01:33 PM
It's time to replace the clutch on my 94 4Runner and I have never done one before. How difficult is it? I pretty much do all my own work but this is a pretty important piece that I don't want to screw up. My 4Runner pretty much stays on the pavement but needs to remain reliable.
What are the parts/tools I will need (and average cost)? What are my gotchas?
08-20-2008, 01:43 PM
You need a pilot bearing, a clutch disk, a throwout bearing, and a clutch alignment tool.
Pressure plate and flywheel turn will be recommended by others. Still others will have you replace the rear main seal, tranny input shaft bearings and seals...
The gotcha is the top 2 bell housing bolts. Lower the back of the transmission to gain access with long extensions.
I put a used clutch disk in my truck about 5 years ago on Christmas day. It took all day, but I was done in time for supper. (I had to be mobile the next day, and no one is going to turn a flywheel on Christmas, let alone sell me a clutch!)
08-20-2008, 01:47 PM
Is this a V6 or 4 cylinder?
The main gotcha with the 4 cylinder is getting the top two bellhousing bolts are a royal pain in the rear. Takes the right combination of extensions, swivels and prayers. Before Bill chimes in about how easy it is, remember he's got a body lift and is cheating. I'd guess the V6 is the same, but never worked on one of those.
Otherwise, the hard part is getting the transmission/transfer case in and out. If you can do that, the rest is straight forward. Floor jacks and friends are the standard method.
The only specialized tools you need are the clutch centering tool and a pilot bearing puller. Depending on where you get the clutch, the kit may include the centering tool. If you have to buy it, probably $10, I dunno. It's a splined piece of plastic with a pull loop, nothing fancy. The puller, that you might be able to rent or borrow from a parts house. Otherwise you'll be looking in the OTC catalog for one that will work. I bought a big puller set, but I'd think a single puller might be $35, $40. Otherwise, sockets, spanners, torque wrench, elbow grease, etc.
08-22-2008, 12:29 AM
Thanks for the info. I am gonna do some shopping for parts and a few tools and see about getting this done before it gets too cold.
08-22-2008, 09:17 AM
Definitely turn the flywheel. You can defer replacing the seals if they are not leaking. The new rear main part number allows you to press it in just a *bit* further, so the seal does not ride in the same grooves as the old one.
You really need to decide if you mind going in again to replace seals I guess.
It goes without saying, I guess, but it is much easier to drop the tranny to do this than pull the motor... :hill:
08-22-2008, 09:26 AM
Forgot about the rear main seal. I would do that, if it's not leaking yet, it probably will start before the clutch wears out again.
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