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View Full Version : What $1750 gets in a 1994 80 series


chtucker
08-30-2008, 04:31 PM
Well thanks to Jeff... I went and picked it up. 164,xxx miles, cloth, no lockers, dings, rear bumper dented. Everything works except for a/c, key is very worn and the key barely opens door (only got one copy of original). Driver's side mirror vibrates. I was able to maintain 50-55mph headed up through Eisenhower and Fremont pass.

The fellow has owned it since 2001 and has put the last 100k on it. The oil stayed clean on the 120 mile trip. The oil pressure "guage" tracked with RPM. It stayed at a hair above the 3/4 mark at 2500 rpm. The temp gauge never moved over the 1/2 way point, even in bumper to bumper around Hidden Valley and the tunnel approach. The transmission seems to shift fine, the O/D lockout works and the ECT button works.

Tires are at about 30%, not going to cut it for this vehicles intended snow duty driver. On go some Cooper M+S studded...

I asked him again what his mechanic said. Rings worn and heads need to be rebuilt is what his mechanic told him, with a quote of $5,000.

I never once saw blue smoke, never saw white smoke. There is definitely some sort of miss going on. No noise from the bottom end.

http://chtucker.home.bresnan.net/landcruiserback.jpg
http://chtucker.home.bresnan.net/landcruiserdriver.jpg
http://chtucker.home.bresnan.net/landcruiserengine.jpg
http://chtucker.home.bresnan.net/landcruiserpass.jpg

Being as I am traveling for the next few weeks and I am moving my part time residence out of Grand Junction... I am thinking about dropping it off at Safari Unlimited for a full looksie/evaluation.

Mendocino
08-30-2008, 04:56 PM
Howard,
Congratulations! I was really hoping you would pass so I could buy it.:-)

Thanks for the tower sections and Belden too!

Cheers,

chtucker
08-30-2008, 06:17 PM
All the plugs are out... 1-5 look well worn. 6 is ever so slightly oil fouled. My understanding of engine theory would be that the bottom end is fine, as there is not alot of oil on the plugs... meaning the rings are fine.

I can't get my cheap compression guage to seal properly yet to get some readings... stay tuned..

Shark Bait
08-30-2008, 08:52 PM
Congrats! Sounds like your 80 needs some time with Powderpig. :D

Welcome to the Red 80 sub-club, BTW. :lol:

Rock Dog
08-31-2008, 01:51 AM
Robbie is re-doing the head on my red 80 right now. it is just over 150,000 and runs fine, but there was a leak starting in the rear so i did not want to take chances.

As Chris said, Welcome to the Rising Sun Red red 80 club!

chtucker
08-31-2008, 02:12 PM
The previous owner stated that valves 5/6 on my 1994 were "bad" His mechanic told him he need rings on 5&6 cylinders and the heads rebuilt at a cost of 5k. I had someone (not a mechanic, just a cruiser head) look at it and they noticed a sound difference between 5&6 and the rest of the cylinders.

No indications of head gasket problems. No coolant in the oil and no oil that I can tell in the radiator fluid.

For those of you that know Colorado. I drove it from Erie, Colorado to Leadville.

The engine temp guage stayed at the 1/2 way mark the whole way including bumper to bumper on the tunnel approach and Fremont pass by Climax.

The oil pressure guage tracked with RPM and stayed at the 3/4 mark at 2500 rpm.

I checked the compression with a Harbor freight tool. I definitely had a leak as it would not hold pressure. All 6 cylinders where reading 120 psi or so. Spec is 171psi. I am guessing that my leak in my guage was causing the low readings. The guage would not hold the pressure. I had to have my wife turn the motor while I watched the guage to see its peak.

I do not see any white smoke, nor have I seen any blue smoke out the tailpipe. Spark plug number 6 was slightly fouled with oil. 1 through 5 were just were just well worn.

The engine has a definite lack of power and a slight miss. The transmission seems to shift fine.

I am going to take it to Safari Limited, but was trying to gather as much as could before I got there. The truck only has 164,000 miles on it. The previous owner had it for the last 100,000 miles. The coolant has been changed at least once, its green.

Is there anything else I should be looking at? Are my compression numbers low enough that I would see blowby and blue smoke out the tail pipe and oil consumption?

I really don't think my numbers are even close. The only time I saw pressure on the guage was when we cranked the motor. The guage "should" have held its peak reading. It just leaked down really quickly.

Howard

chtucker
08-31-2008, 06:38 PM
Went and borrowed a neighbors compression guage.

Its ancient, hasn't been out of the box in over 15 years. Its from Montgomery Wards, I don't remember when they went out of business.

It peaks at about 135-145psi on all 6 cylinders. Went up about 10psi when I drop a few tsp of oil in...171psi is what the little book that came with the harbor freight tool says is spec.

Is the guage accurate? It worked better than the Harbor Freight piece of junk that I borrowed from work. It had never been opened.

So I am guessing that the heads are ok, the head gasket is ok and maybe the rings too... but who knows with the junk guages I have been using...

I am at a loss...I was expecting valve train problems based on the previous owners "mechanic" told him..

subzali
08-31-2008, 06:48 PM
If there is a miss, it might be as simple as a plug wire that's going bad or if you replace the spark plugs it might go away. Those compression readings sound pretty good from what little I know of 80 series cruisers...

Like Robbie said in the other thread, cam/valve train doesn't sound too likely...

corsair23
09-01-2008, 12:56 AM
It peaks at about 135-145psi on all 6 cylinders. Went up about 10psi when I drop a few tsp of oil in...171psi is what the little book that came with the harbor freight tool says is spec.

Is the guage accurate? It worked better than the Harbor Freight piece of junk that I borrowed from work. It had never been opened.


I know little to nothing in this area but I thought I recalled reading in a post not too long ago that at our altitude and probably even more so yours that you'll NEVER get spec psi readings. I'm not sure what % of a drop/difference you can expect but considering that even at Denver altitude we lose close to 25% of our HP due to lower atmospheric pressure it stands to reason that the difference could be substantial. A 20% difference due to altitude would mean that you'd be looking for readings in the 137 psi range.

Take my information with a grain of salt though. Hopefully Dave or Bill will chime in as I remember they were two of the folks talking about this on Dave's engine rebuild...

Oh, and :cheers: on getting the 80. Do you know if the mechanic ever checked the fuel injectors or anything else to rule those out?

Beater
09-01-2008, 08:23 AM
sounds like the prior owner got a PITA bid from his shop. You know, pain in the arse bid. Some people do that so that the customer backs away, or if they say yes, their bases are covered.

as I recall, those numbers are good for that mileage. Talk with an expert like robbie or others, but If my oil and fluid were clean, with no noises, I'd slap some ignition parts on that beast, clean the maf and throttle body then soap/carb fluid all the vacuum lines to see where it's leaking, and call it good.

chtucker
09-01-2008, 09:05 AM
I know little to nothing in this area but I thought I recalled reading in a post not too long ago that at our altitude and probably even more so yours that you'll NEVER get spec psi readings. I'm not sure what % of a drop/difference you can expect but considering that even at Denver altitude we lose close to 25% of our HP due to lower atmospheric pressure it stands to reason that the difference could be substantial. A 20% difference due to altitude would mean that you'd be looking for readings in the 137 psi range.

Take my information with a grain of salt though. Hopefully Dave or Bill will chime in as I remember they were two of the folks talking about this on Dave's engine rebuild...

Oh, and :cheers: on getting the 80. Do you know if the mechanic ever checked the fuel injectors or anything else to rule those out?


I am leaning towards ignition/fuel injectors myself at this point. Plus the valves have probably not been adjusted.

I never thought about the altitude thing. A friend of my mine needs to run 2 7.5hp 80 gallon compressors in series at this altitude just to barely keep up with his sandblasting... The rule of thumb is 3% for every 1000 feet above sea level... So 27% at 10,000.

I don't think the mechanic checked ANYTHING. If they did, it would have had new plugs/wires/cap a long time ago. It doesn't look like the valve cover has been off.

Last winter I bought a "broken" snow blower... It was missing a clevis pin on the engagement wheel... I am optimistic that this is something along those lines...:D

Rock Dog
09-01-2008, 11:20 AM
The engine temp guage stayed at the 1/2 way mark the whole way including bumper to bumper on the tunnel approach and Fremont pass by Climax.


Just be aware that the temp guage on the 80 can Lie :eek::eek: It has a "dead Spot" in the middle. After it warms up it seems to sit in the middle all the time. Refer to the FAQ on mud and you will see a fix that allows the temp guage to actually work and remove the "Dead Zone". Romer had an experience first hand with the guage not working until it was really hot. he now runs a seperate guage.

nuclearlemon
09-01-2008, 02:19 PM
get yourself a scangaugeII...trust me, the $160 may seem like a lot until you plug it in and realize all that it can do, including a realtime correct temp reading. mine's mounted on the dash and i don't even use the gauge anymore.

chtucker
09-01-2008, 02:26 PM
Will the scanguage work with a 1994? Or does it only work with OBDII?

nuclearlemon
09-01-2008, 04:43 PM
Will the scanguage work with a 1994? Or does it only work with OBDII?

d'oh....nevermind.

Inukshuk
09-01-2008, 11:04 PM
Sounds like you scored. When I bought my 1993 back in 2001 at 110,000 the shop out east that checked it for me told me it had a leaky radiator, that the lockers did not work and I would need a valve adjustmet due to low compression. 80,000 miles later the radiator still has not shown me that leak, the lockers still work great and last April at 174,000 I finally had it in to get the valves adjusted and they were in spec.

I recommend a thorough tune up (via Robbie, or the Toy Shop or Slee - I had a great time with the Safari guys at Cruise Moab, just not local for me) to get yourself a baseline and the drive it for a while to see if it needs more. You only have 164,000 - that's just getting broken in for a Cruiser.

chtucker
09-03-2008, 08:41 PM
I spoke to Hugh at Safari yesterday... looks like a tuneup and maybe an injector....


Then everything else.. Front axle, maybe a birfield, radiator flush, and all driveline fluids..

Maybe I will get the a/c charger :)

chtucker
09-04-2008, 09:09 PM
gulp... talked to Hugh today... Birfields/spider gears and a general front axle rebuild are going to be expensive...

powderpig
09-04-2008, 09:25 PM
No real sense in replacing just one injector. I would send them all to get cleaned. If Hugh does not have a place, have them sent into www.witchhunter.com. I have been using them for many years now and have not been disappointed yet. usually a same day turn around(only one day in his shop). Do the front axle your self, similar to all the other front toyota axles out there.Use only toyota seals in the axle. Aftermarket suck. Good luck with it, a cheap project is never really cheap, just less expensive in the begining. later Robbie

chtucker
09-04-2008, 09:27 PM
Yep.. going to wait and see about the axle... Just want to get it running right first.

Thanks Robbie for your help! I was headed in the other direction for the next few weeks. I have until the 15th of this month in Grand Junction and Safari is next door (now that they have moved to 10th and Pitkin) I can see them from my office window.

Should also add, that every 80 I have looked at under 6k needed all the same maintainence stuff. They all were way past due on the front axles. I saw a 1994 in Delta today. 172k, really clean body, at a used car lot, cloth, no lockers. $8,000!

I am not afraid of the spending some money to go another 165k miles. I knew whatever I bought was going to need some work. I did not care about appearance/or lockers. So I went cheap to start....

We will see were I end up...

Inukshuk
09-05-2008, 09:34 AM
Robbie,
What do you recommend for fuel injector cleaning and how hard are they to R&R?

treerootCO
09-05-2008, 11:11 AM
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=7664&page=2

I have the bumpers parts if you need a newer set.

powderpig
09-05-2008, 11:18 AM
Injectors need to pulled out between the 2 halfs of the intake manifold. takes about 3(r&r) hrs to do. When I get back in October I should have some fresh sets of injectors for a quicker turn around then. All that I have currently are going with me to LA next week for a 3 week work project(4 trucks). Anyhow, a clean set does make a difference.

chtucker
09-18-2008, 08:46 PM
Update....

One injector, rotor, cap, radiator and PHH and I pick it up soon...(Hugh said that the PHH is a piece of cake if you have a lift)...

Going to check out the frontend myself and see where we get... I will post picks of the inner splines... Hopefully the diff is AOK.

Uncle Ben
09-18-2008, 09:25 PM
Update....

One injector, rotor, cap, radiator and PHH and I pick it up soon...(Hugh said that the PHH is a piece of cake if you have a lift)...

Going to check out the frontend myself and see where we get... I will post picks of the inner splines... Hopefully the diff is AOK.

Confused....only one injector was replaced? Thats kinda like buying one shoelace at a time isn't it? :confused:

chtucker
09-18-2008, 09:27 PM
One injector was bad... they all were rebuilt;)

Uncle Ben
09-18-2008, 10:18 PM
One injector was bad... they all were rebuilt;)

:thumb::thumb: :cool: Attaboy! ;)