PDA

View Full Version : '74 build thread (car unnamed)


Rogue Leader
09-18-2008, 05:27 PM
OK so ran a compression test and the Numbers were lowish. 120 115 115 100 100 125. I've been planning on rebuilding the engine cause there are multiple leaks from everywhere and the original mielage is unknown so these numbers kinda pushed the idea into action. Here is the result of 3 shop days consisting of two three hour sessions and today where i spent about 6 hours wrestling with this heavy thing. build of the engine tranny and transfer are at school so pics will be limited but the body work will be done at home.

MDH33
09-18-2008, 05:43 PM
You The MAN. :cool:


More pictures please. :D

wesintl
09-18-2008, 06:03 PM
numbers aren't really that bad imho. I would have done a quick seal on things and then see how much oil your loosing but since it's out good luck with the rebuild

Rogue Leader
09-18-2008, 06:14 PM
I tried to seal every thing at the beginning of the summer and I've added over 4 Q of engine oil and the transfer was pretty dry. Once I get the Accord out of the garage I will definately take more pics. We got some video of us driving it around the auto shop like fred flinstone because the tranny hump was gone, Ill try to get that.

subzali
09-19-2008, 06:13 AM
My numbers are lower than that and my engine runs great. At least best I can tell :rolleyes:

But mine doesn't burn that much oil, so you have a good reason for a rebuild there. Good shop project, let them American kids learn a little about Japanese engineering! :thumb: :D

Just make sure they don't try to use any ISO metric on it, there will be a price to pay! :rant:

RicardoJM
09-19-2008, 07:17 AM
Wow, that is a bunch of oil. I think it is great that you are tackling the rebuild:thumb:. The truck will be much better off. I'm with Martin in thinking we need to see a bunch more pictures and I'd also like to see you include details; things you learn and where you found answers to questions that came up along the way.

Rogue Leader
09-19-2008, 07:55 AM
It wasnt burning the oil it was leaking. Plans for the engine include a exhaust manifold to replace the headers, vacuum advance dizzy W/ rebuilt and ported carb, probably ballance, oil pan to replace the one allready there, new clutch, and whatever else comes up.

Rogue Leader
09-21-2008, 08:00 AM
K here is the long awated pics. these are the exterior problem areas

kvanoort
09-21-2008, 08:07 PM
Good luck with your project. Let me know if you would like any help or advice. I've just completed my 2F rebuild using lots of the F parts. I also did the FJ60 electronic ignition and coil pack upgrade.

Are you sure you don't want my '74 F block? It's one of the transitional blocks with the oil filter on the passenger side.

Rogue Leader
09-22-2008, 02:47 PM
Thanks,

It is a 12-74 so I already have the oil filter on the passenger side

Rogue Leader
09-22-2008, 04:54 PM
OK so where to get the gasket kits, piston rings and bearings? OEM or Man-a-Fre of sorts? kinda leaning towards the OEM since that has been in the engine for 30 some odd years.

Uncle Ben
09-22-2008, 05:46 PM
OK so where to get the gasket kits, piston rings and bearings? OEM or Man-a-Fre of sorts? kinda leaning towards the OEM since that has been in the engine for 30 some odd years.

Boulder Toyota (http://bouldertoyota.com)
Burt Toyota (http://burt.com)
Mountain States Toyota (http://mountainstatestoyota.com)
Stevinson Toyota (http://stevinsontoyota.com)

Or any other RS supporting Toyota parts supplier....

Rogue Leader
09-22-2008, 05:52 PM
Too bad I'm not a member. I would probably go to burt's or stevinson since they are down closer to my house.

Rogue Leader
09-25-2008, 07:18 PM
OK I was able to get Pics from school and the engine. It is ready to be sent out and cleaned. First is the 5 and 6th cylinder, 2nd pic is the 1,2,3rd cylinders and the 3rd pic is the input shaft w/ the inner half of the bearing. the outside is still stuck in the engine somewhere.

Convert
09-25-2008, 07:37 PM
Too bad I'm not a member. I would probably go to burt's or stevinson since they are down closer to my house.

Membership is easy, Maybe a senior discount is available:lmao:

kvanoort
09-25-2008, 09:23 PM
OK so where to get the gasket kits, piston rings and bearings? OEM or Man-a-Fre of sorts? kinda leaning towards the OEM since that has been in the engine for 30 some odd years.

I did a side by side comparison of OEM and aftermarket gaskets and bearings when I did my rebuild and OEM is the way to go. I also did a parts price comparison at Boulder Toyota, Stevinson, CCOT, SOR and CDan. Stevinson and CDan had the best prices.

Rogue Leader
09-26-2008, 12:14 PM
So who has had their engine balanced? I've heard good things about doing it and was wondering who had it done and where they took it to get work done. Also was wondering where to take the head to get shaved?

kvanoort
09-28-2008, 06:56 PM
So who has had their engine balanced? I've heard good things about doing it and was wondering who had it done and where they took it to get work done. Also was wondering where to take the head to get shaved?

I had all my machine work done by Tom Smith of Maximum Performance Machine & Smith Racing LLC.

10650 Irma Dr Unit 3
Northglenn, CO 80233
(303) 234-9223
smith-racing.com

Hulk
09-30-2008, 12:38 AM
You might talk to the CarQuest guys over on Broadway. Some of their stores have machine shops. Call them first.

CARQUEST Auto Parts
6985 South Broadway
Littleton, CO 80120

(303) 795-7758

74fj40
09-30-2008, 10:33 PM
I went to colorado auto machine. my dad and I have head all of our head jobs done there. very knowledgeable. I also know thats where all of our machine stuff from work goes to.

74fj40
09-30-2008, 10:34 PM
Also, don't forget to have hardened valve seats put it.

Rogue Leader
10-01-2008, 01:06 PM
Ok so when I went to order the parts I found out that Toyota discontinued the piston rings. I need rings so where should I go?

Rogue Leader
11-19-2008, 07:10 PM
Its been a couple of weeks since I last updated this build thread. While my engine was out I decided to strip the engine bay and sand blast and repaint. The sandblasting is done and I need to go get paint, hopefully in a rattle can. On the engine everything went smoothly until we closely inspected the "cam followers":D and the cam. the followers were pitted badly and several of the cam lobes are flattened. Everything came to a screeching halt until I find suitable replacement parts. Ill take pics tomorrow of the progress.

Rogue Leader
03-20-2009, 05:35 PM
It's finally done. it would have taken less time but I left the country for 40 days. I regret to say I took no pictures of the process, It was too much of a hassle at school because periods were so short. It is currently sitting awaiting the new resting place. I sandblasted everything from the rear door jambs up and the top and the final coat of paint is going on tonight. If i finish my transmission on Monday hopefully it will be drivable by next weekend and ready for the meeting:D. I'll take pictures of the final paint tomorrow. I have random pictures of the engine bay before I took anything out here: http://picasaweb.google.com/Sjones1029/LandCruiserEngineBayDissembly?feat=directlink

Rogue Leader
04-02-2009, 06:13 PM
Engine is in, fluids topped off, everything is connected, WHY WONT IT START? I have a hunch it is timing but when we dropped the dist. in we aligned it with TDC on piston 1. i get some pistons to fire then all I get is a fire at my exhaust manifold. I have no clue how to adj. timing or have the tools. does anyone have a timing light/ time to spare to come help figure this out? Im south west side, Ken Caryl.

Thanks,
Sean Jones

Uncle Ben
04-02-2009, 06:37 PM
Engine is in, fluids topped off, everything is connected, WHY WONT IT START? I have a hunch it is timing but when we dropped the dist. in we aligned it with TDC on piston 1. i get some pistons to fire then all I get is a fire at my exhaust manifold. I have no clue how to adj. timing or have the tools. does anyone have a timing light/ time to spare to come help figure this out? Im south west side, Ken Caryl.

Thanks,
Sean Jones

Sounds like the distrib is 180* off

Rogue Leader
04-02-2009, 07:55 PM
Flipped the dist. and it just makes it flame sooner. It has to be the timingi just need a light that works

Rogue Leader
10-12-2009, 03:31 PM
Back again after nearly a 7 month hiatus from all things cruiser related and finally the parentals lit a fire under my ass to get stuff done. The only problem is that I'm up here in AK and the car is sitting in the garage back in CO. Dad says he'll help transport and do some minor work but there are two big projects that need to be done to get the cruiser where I want it to be. First off is the Transmission. Somewhere along in the rebuild i either jammed something together or forgot a part and it is stuck in first and the car wont move. Secondly is the rust problem from the drivers seats back. The easiest way I see fixing all the rust is to replace with a half tub from the doorjambs back. Id also like the new tub section linex'd to help with the wear and tear of bikes, camping euip, climbing stuff, and dead animals from time to time. Ok now the question, Where in town can do all of this, and what tub would be recommended?

nakman
10-12-2009, 03:59 PM
Only guy that comes to mind for both jobs is Oleg.. they are good at body work, and he could likely fix that transmission too.

But if you're cutting the tub from the seats back that sure opens the door to possibility, like a extended cab, or go the other way and do a tray back or 45 long bed.. just how much cash are the folks wiling to drop at Irbis for you, anyway?

Rogue Leader
10-12-2009, 04:07 PM
I've got 3 grand I can put towards it and the parents could add probably up to 1500. Just trying not to get too fancy as I need to save some money for the drive up here in June. Trying to make more of an overland vehicle so long range fuel tanks and a roof rack are going to be some definite add ons.

Air Randy
10-12-2009, 05:49 PM
If you get a new tub it usually replaces everything from the front edge of the door frame and floorboards backwards.

There is another outfit that could do the tub and for sure the mechanical work for you: Redline Cruisers in Calhan. They do very good work and are very reasonably priced. If you want, give Justin a call and explain what you need done. His number is 719-210-0101.

If it needed to be hauled out to Calhan I have a trailer and I would be glad to give your Dad a hand with that chore.

Heres a picture of my rig, Redline built the tube fenders, body armor and did a bunch of other work on it too. I recommend them.